Blacksmiths started forging simple flat irons in the late Middle Ages. Plain metal irons were heated by a fire or on a stove. Some were made of stone. Earthenware and terracotta were also used, from the Middle East to France and the Netherlands. Flat irons were also called sad irons or smoothing irons. Metal handles had to be gripped in a pad or thick rag. Some irons had cool wooden handles and in 1870 a detachable handle was patented in the US. This stayed cool while the metal bases were heated and the idea was widely imitated. Cool handles stayed even cooler in "asbestos sad irons". The sad in sad iron (or sadiron) is an old word for solid, and in some contexts this name suggests something bigger and heavier than a flat iron. Goose or tailor's goose was another iron name, and this came from the goose-neck curve in some handles. In Scotland people spoke of gusing (goosing) irons. At least two irons were needed on the go together for an effective system, one would be in use, and the other re-heating. Large households with servants had a special ironing-stove for this purpose. Some were fitted with slots for several irons, and a water-jug on top.An early domestic object that gives an insight into how the ironing of clothes was done before the electric type irons we use and take for granted today.Clothes Iron, wedge shaped, cast iron painted black with cylindrical handle small funnel through centre of handle.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, iron, flat iron, laundry equipment, sad iron, domestic object

It appears that the earliest form of child's high chair is attributed to Jonathan Jacobs (1845-1919) a cabinet maker of Browningsville, Pennsylvania USA around the mid to late 19th century. However, children’s chairs from the 18th century and earlier were being used and are in many museum collections around the world that show woodworkers were adapting chair designs for younger users in Europe and America at this time.An early children's wooden high chair probably made in America around 1890-1900. Many American manufactures made this type of wooden high chair called an “Eastlake” style and many did not mark their work so it is difficult to determine the subject items exact provenance. A significant item giving a snapshot into the evolution of children's furniture and domestic life during the late Victorian era.Convertible pressed back Victorian era high chair with convertible frame, cast iron wheels, Carved picture of a child to back of seatflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, high chair, potty chair, baby furniture, kitchen furniture

In early civilization's cereal grains such as maize, wheat, barley etc. were stored in large airy buildings, often raised up from the ground to reduce infestation by pests and vermin. Ancient Egyptian and early Hebrew writings include reference to such buildings. Smaller quantities of food were stored in baskets made from woven grasses or leaves. In more recent times but prior to the invention of the refrigerator many food products were stored in the home as preserves or pickles, often in heat sealed jars. Dry food items were stored in vermin proof metal containers and could be found in any early colonial kitchen. Items such as coffee, tea, rice and sago were stable food types and needed longer term storage and a higher degree of protection from vermin and the elements, a common material used during this time was sheet metal or tin such as is used today in a common form of storage the biscuit tin. An early example of colonial food storage used in a domestic setting, it is interesting to note the subject items have provision to be locked. This indicates the value early colonial settlers placed on the contents and used to prevent pilfering. The subject items are now sought by collectors. Canister set; set of four canisters. Cylindrical matching kitchen storage tins with hinge lid that has a latch closure, and a folding handle on top of lid. Canisters are painted brown and the body has a graphic of a scroll in gold with printed label of contents. The canisters range from small to large, "COFFEE", "TEA" , "SAGO", " RICE" (respective RNs 163.1, 163.2, 163.3, 163.4)Respectively labelled "COFFEE," "TEA," "SAGO," "RICE" flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, canister, canister set, rice canister, kitchen canister, food storage, domestic item

Blacksmiths started forging simple flat irons in the late Middle Ages. Plain metal irons were heated by a fire or on a stove. Some were made of stone. Earthenware and terracotta were also used, from the Middle East to France and the Netherlands. Flat irons were also called sad irons or smoothing irons. Metal handles had to be gripped in a pad or thick rag. Some irons had cool wooden handles and in 1870 a detachable handle was patented in the US. This stayed cool while the metal bases were heated and the idea was widely imitated. Cool handles stayed even cooler in "asbestos sad irons". The sad in sad iron (or sadiron) is an old word for solid, and in some contexts this name suggests something bigger and heavier than a flat iron. Goose or tailor's goose was another iron name, and this came from the goose-neck curve in some handles. In Scotland people spoke of gusing (goosing) irons. At least two irons were needed on the go together for an effective system, one would be in use, and the other re-heating. Large households with servants had a special ironing-stove for this purpose. Some were fitted with slots for several irons, and a water-jug on top.An early domestic object that gives an insight into how the ironing of clothes was done before the electric type irons we use and take for granted today. Flat iron cast iron with traces of original black finish on handle. Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, iron, flat iron, laundry, clothes ironing, sad iron, tailors goose

Candles were the main source of lighting during the Colonial era. The candles were made at home from tallow, or animal fat, which was readily available and inexpensive. The tallow was soft, often had an unpleasant smell, band burned with a low, quickly fading light. Beeswax candles could be bought ready-made and lasted longer when lit. Bayberry wax could also be made into candles but was the process was labour intensive and time consuming. Spermaceti was from whale oil, a growing industry in the late 1800's, made firmer candles. Around this time wooden candle moulds were invented and uniform size and shape candles could be produced using the spermaceti wax. The candle mould is significant in the evolution of household lighting. It was an asset to the 19th century homemakers, allowing the production of their own candles in a uniform size. Candlelight allowed for the extension of time available for duties.Candle mould of tinplate for one dozen (12) candles. The tubular moulds stand upright, three rows of four, in a fitted tray. Another concave tray fits over the top ends of the moulds and has a hole above each of the candles, which is used for filling the moulds with melted wax. Ends have wire-reinforced edges.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, candle mould, candle making, lighting, candles, tallow, beeswax, bayberry wax, spermaceti was, whale oil, candlelight

Sad irons of the 19th century were so named because of the weight 1.8Kg that was needed to press wrinkled clothes and sheets. They were made of solid metal, including the handle. When the iron was heated, this meant that the handle would also heat up. The user would have to use a thick cloth or a mitt of some sort before they could pick up the iron. Even so, burns and blisters, as well as strained, tired arms, were a normal part of the “ironing day.” Mrs Mary Florence Potts of Ottumwa, Iowa, brought a change to the world of ironing. At the age of 19, in 1870, she invented her first sad iron. It had a hollow metal body that could be filled with a non-conducting material such as plaster of Paris. In 1871, Mary invented the removable wood handle, so that it could be changed from the cool iron to one that was hot and ready to use. A final improvement was the shape: Mary made both ends pointed so its user could iron in either direction. All of these inventions were patented under her name, a rarity for the time. Mary, with the help of her husband, tried unsuccessfully to market her invention on her own. It wasn't until she sold the sales rights to the American Manufacturing Company that sales took off. Advertised as "Mrs Potts' sad iron," it became a sensation. The company manufactured the iron from about 1876 to 1951. Mrs Potts' sad iron became a household word and a standard for future inventors to have to surpass. This didn't happen until 1882 when Henry W. Seely patented the first electric iron. The item is significant not only as a usable domestic tool, but it was, at the time of its creation, a revolutionary labour-saving device. Mrs Potts invention remains associated with a housewife's answer to the domestic drudgery of ironing.Iron,"Mrs Potts" pattern iron. Semi-circular or 'D' shaped wood handle and wood knob.Mrs Pottsflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, iron, clothes iron, flat iron, laundry, sad iron, mrs potts

Melvin Newton Lovell was born in Allegheny, Venango county, Pennsylvania, on 31 August 1844, to Darius T. Lovell (1815-1855) and Susan B. (Conover) Lovell (1827-1883). When Melvin Lovell was a boy, the family removed to Kerrtown, a village located in the vicinity of Titusville, PA. There Melvin served an apprenticeship at the carpenter's trade, and his natural mechanical talent enabled him to become a skilled workman. He followed his trade during the major portion of his term of residence in Kerrtown. In 1861, at seventeen years of age, Melvin Lovell left his home and, without parental authority, and entered the Union army soon after the outbreak of the Civil war. In August 1862, he was enlisted as a private in the 127th Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry and saw active service until receiving his discharge at the end of May 1863. In 1865 he took up his residence in Erie, where he worked at the carpenter's trade for several years thereafter. In 1869 Melvin Lovell invented and patented several useful articles for household use, and in that year he began the manufacturing of certain of these inventions, in partnership with Franklin Farrar Adams, another inventor. Among the principal products of the original factory were washing machines and step-ladders. In 1881 Lovell individually began manufacturing other of his patents, including spring beds, and from modest inception, his Lovell Manufacturing Company grew to be one of the largest industrial concerns of its kind in the country and was recognized as being the most extensive manufacture of clothes-wringers in the entire world. In connection with his manufacture of domestic items, Lovell established sales agencies for his products in all parts of the country, and these branches were known as the Lovell stores. These goods were sold on the instalment plan and after his business had already been established becoming a substantial concern Lovell invented and patented the famous wringer which bears his name under the “Anchor” brand, and in later years he confined his operations largely to the manufacture of this very superior household invention. Lovell was also one of the organizers and stockholders of the Combination Roll & Rubber Manufacturing Co, of New York, which was formed to manufacture his patents, with headquarters in New York and a factory at Bloomfield, New Jersey.A significant household item used in the process of washing clothes by a man who had started in 1869, as a young carpenter and later he became a successful businessman and manufacturer of household items. Lovell was granted numerous patents for various devices during his career including several patents for adding machines (cash registers).Wringer (or mangle); portable wooden washing wringer with rubber rollers, manually driven by iron set of gears and handle. Includes iron clamps and adjusting screws for attaching. Marked on frame "382", "12 x 1 3/4" Anchor Brand "Made in USA" flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, mangle, clothes wringer, washing equipment, laundry, wringer, domestic, washing mangle

The lamp has been manufactured for decorative used, representing lamps of the late 19th and early 20th century used for lighting.The lamp is an example of a 19th century ships lamp. It is currently not associated with a historical event, person or place at this time and is being used to augment Flagstaff's village display.Metal lamp with circular base, 8-sided glass section and conical lid topped by a frilled metal cone and handle made from a strip of metal bent into a 'u' shape and attached so that it can swing back and forth..Cone hinges to side to give access to candle, which is seated in a short ring in the centre of the base. There is a ring of air holes around the circumference of the cone, about half way up the height of it. A shard of glass missing from one of the glass panels and the metal parts are corroded.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, lighting, candle lamp, domestic lighting, ship lamp

T. & C. Clark & Company Limited was based at Shakespeare Foundry in Wolverhampton England and was founded in 1795 by Thomas and Charles Clark. The company grew to be one of the largest iron foundries in Wolverhampton and were pioneering in the manufacture of enamelled cast iron cookware and sanitary wares. The company's product range included thousands of items, both domestic and industrial. T. & C. Clark were pioneers in the use of enamelled cast ironware, after taking out a patent in 1839 guaranteeing their products to be free of lead or arsenic. The company became the largest employer in Wolverhampton employing between 600 to 700 people.The item is significant as it was used as a domestic kitchen item to cook food safely without the concern that the metal interior may contain lead or arsenic as earlier cooking utensils had. Pressure cooker, cast iron , pressure vent on top. Removable lid held down by 3 riveted heart shaped clips where they join the base. Metal drop down carry handle.T & C Clarke and Co. on base & size 2 1/2 gallonflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, pressure cooker, cook ware, cooking pot, clarke and co

A colander, sieve or cullender is a kitchen utensil used to strain foods such as pasta or to rinse vegetables. The perforated nature of the bowl allows liquid to drain through while retaining the solids inside it is sometimes also called a pasta strainer or kitchen sieve. Conventionally, colanders are made of a light metal, such as aluminum or thinly rolled stainless or plated steel, colanders are also made of plastic, silicone, ceramic, and enamelware. The word colander comes from the Latin Colum meaning sieve.Early 20th century kitchen item possibly of French manufacture due to the design and shape of the bowl this design appears to have been favoured by the French around 1910 for smaller Colanders. This item gives a snapshot into domestic life around the late 19th and early 20th centuries and the types of kitchen equipment in use.Strainer or colander, metal, with concave base and wood handle, plated metal construction with welded or folded seams. Handle painted black, perforated base.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, strainer, food strainer, seive, food preparation, kitchen ware

The fruit juice or lemon squeezer is a small kitchen utensil designed to extract juice from lemons or other citrus fruit such as oranges, grapefruit, or lime. It is designed to separate and crush the pulp of the fruit in a way that is easy to operate. Lemon squeezers can be made from any solid, acid-resistant material, such as plastic, glass, metal (usually aluminum) or ceramic. The oldest known lemon squeezers were found in Kütahya, Turkey and date to the first quarter of the 18th century. These ceramic presses are in the traditional style of Turkish pottery of the 18th century and have a superficial resemblance to today's press equipment with cones, though they are designed differently. These examples were individually made, and specially designed for making the then popular citrus drink sorbet. Lemons are not native to northern Turkey, though during the 17th and 18th centuries they were imported in bulk to Constantinople.The fruit juice press is an example of early 20th century kitchen utensils and is not associated with an historical event, person or place, provenance is unable to be determined at this time and the item is believed to have been made around 1900. This item is currently being used in Flagstaffs Hill village display and regarded as significant as it demonstrates domestic kitchen utensils used around the turn of the 19th century and today is a collectable item. Vintage lemon/citrus fruits squeezer cast iron juicer with two sections hinged together strainer on one section has holes for letting liquid escape.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, food press, food preparation, fruit juice press, kitchen utensil

T. & C. Clark & Company Limited was based at Shakespeare Foundry in Wolverhampton England and was founded in 1795 by Thomas and Charles Clark. The company grew to be one of the largest iron foundries in Wolverhampton and were pioneering in the manufacture of enamelled cast iron cookware and sanitary wares. The company's product range included thousands of items, both domestic and industrial. T. & C. Clark were pioneers in the use of enamelled cast ironware, after taking out a patent in 1839 guaranteeing their products to be free of lead or arsenic. The company became the largest employer in Wolverhampton employing between 600 to 700 people.The item is significant as it was used as a domestic kitchen item to boil water safely without the concern that the metal may contain lead or arsenic as earlier cooking utensils had. Cast Iron Kettle no lidT and C Clark and Co, London. No. 2, 5 pints capacityflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, kettle, cooking pot, cook ware, kitchen ware, cast iron kettle, t c clark ltd

The Hoffman company was established in 1870 to mass-produce bricks using the Hoffman patent kiln and the Bradley and Craven brick press. Once established the company entered a period of expansion aided by Melbourne's building boom from 1870 to 1890. During this time approximately ten brick machines were in operation producing some 18,000 bricks per hour. An extensive pottery works were established initially supplying mainly tiles and drainpipes and later domestic pottery such as the company's Melrose ware. The company even had its locomotive shunt the works siding which connected with the Victorian Railways at South Brunswick. By 1890 Hoffman was the largest brick and pottery works in Victoria, however, the 1890s depression halted company expansion. The company joined the Brick Co-operative when it was formed in 1896. The cooperative regulated prices and output from member brickworks. As the depression ended business picked up and the works were expanded to increase the production of stoneware pottery, especially domestic wares. The brickworks, however, never recovered the momentum of the early period. During the 1920s and 1930s, the works gradually ran down, and following the Second World War, production reached an all-time low. The No.1 works were stripped and sold. (For further information regards Hoffman Kilns see note section of this document.) An item made in Melbourne by at the time the largest pottery works in Australia making industrial and domestic wares for the home and building industries. Stoneware Demijohn jug with cream and brown glaze. Printed around base of jug, MELBOURNE, 1929"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, jug, melbourne, 1929, stoneware jug, hoffman potteries

A butter churn is a device used to convert cream into butter. This is done through a mechanical process, frequently via a pole inserted through the lid of the churn, or via a crank used to turn a rotating device inside the churn. The use of butter is mentioned in biblical works and the earliest butter churn vessels belonging to Beersheba culture in Israel were found in Bir Abu Matar going back to Chalcolithic period between 6500–5500 BC. The butter churn in Europe may have existed as early as the 6th century AD, In the European tradition, the butter churn was primarily a device used by women, and the churning of butter was an essential responsibility along with other household chores. In earlier traditions of butter making, nomadic cultures placed milk in skin bags and produced butter either by shaking the bag manually, or possibly by attaching the bag to a pack animal, and producing butter simply through the movement of the animal. An item used to make butter in a domestic situation by turning a handle until the cream inside has turned to butter.Butter churn, wooden, lid pieces screwed or nailed together. Brass bearing on side with iron turning handle.Handle marked 28204 no other marks to indicate manufacturer or date of productionflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, churn, butter churn, wooden churn, butter making, food, dairy, kitchen utensil

T & C Clark & Company Limited, based at Shakespeare Foundry, was founded in 1795 by Thomas and Charles Clark and grew to be one of the largest iron foundries in Wolverhampton. The firm was the pioneers of Enamelled Cast ironware and the founder Charles Clerk went on to became mayor of Wolverhampton in 1860 after also serving as a Councilor, Alderman, and later Chief Magistrate. The company exhibited many products at the International Exhibition of 1862 at South Kensington, alongside the gardens of the Royal Horticultural Society. The company was also awarded the silver medal for its products at the International Paris Exhibition in 1878. The company's product range included thousands of items, both domestic and industrial. T & C Clark pioneered the use of enamelled cast ironware, after taking out a patent in 1839 guaranteed to be free of lead or arsenic. In the late 1940s and 1950s the company produced acid-resisting enamelled cast iron boiling pans; steam-jacketed pans; stills; square and rectangular tanks; open and closed mixing vessels; flanged pipes; bends and tees; laboratory equipment; small scale plant; evaporating bowls; beakers; sulphonates; and glass-lined mild steel tanks for beer, mineral water, and food. The company is listed as enamelled chemical plant manufacturers in Kelly's 1962 Wolverhampton Directory, but within a few years, the company had ceased trading.The item is significant as it was used as a domestic kitchen or camp fire item used to cook food safely without the concern that the metal may contain lead or arsenic as earlier cooking utensils had. T C Clark innervates the first manufacturing process of cast iron cook ware to have enamel lining in his products to alleviate the possibility of lead or arsenic contamination of food.Oval cast iron boiler or cooking pot, with lid, pot is oval shaped lid is dented and handle buckled.Inscription on base "Clark & Co Patent", "Best Quality", "9 Gallons" and a Trade Mark of a "C" inside two triangles to side of potflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, cooking pot, stew pot, food, kitchen utensil, shakespeare foundry, tc clark

This wire soap holder is purpose-made by hand for holding a bar of soap in a way that allows the soap to air dry. It may have been used in the laundry, bathroom or kitchen, areas used for washing hands or bodies. Wet bars of soap could become very soft and difficult to use. The maker used short lengths of wire to create this soap holder, showing thriftiness and inventiveness.Although the soap holder is currently not associated with a historical event, person or place at this time it is being used to augment Flagstaff's village display as it is typical of items used in the 19th and early 20th centuries.Soap holder; basket shaped frame, handmade from twisted wire strands.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, soap h older, wire soap holder, cleaning, laundry, washing, sanitation

T. & C. Clark & Company Limited was based at Shakespeare Foundry in Wolverhampton England and was founded in 1795 by Thomas and Charles Clark. The company grew to be one of the largest iron foundries in Wolverhampton and were pioneering in the manufacture of enamelled cast iron cookware and sanitary wares. The company's product range included thousands of items, both domestic and industrial. T. & C. Clark were pioneers in the use of enamelled cast ironware, after taking out a patent in 1839 guaranteeing their products to be free of lead or arsenic. The company became the largest employer in Wolverhampton employing between 600 to 700 people.The items are significant as they were used as domestic kitchen items to cook food safely without the concern that the metal may contain lead or arsenic as earlier cooking utensils had. This is due to the enamel lining pioneered by TC Clark Pot set; set of three pots. Iron pots, enamelled on the inside with a pouring lip and capacity label on each pot. Pot set a capacity label on each pot. Three pots in set labelled 17 qts and 14 qts on base and flat spot opposite lip - handle for pouring. 12 qts is missing flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, pot set, cooking pot, pouring pot, cook ware

Containers like this handmade and varnished cane or wicker basket have been used in homes for decades for carrying wet or dry laundry items. The basket is an example of late 20th century cane ware. The craft has been used over the centuries to produce similar items for domestic use. This basket is currently not associated with a historical event, person or place at this time and is being used to augment Flagstaff's village display.Cane or wicker laundry basket with one handle, handmade and varnished. Basket is oval shaped., flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, basket, cane basket, laundry, laundry basket, washing basket, domestic item

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

A rolling pin is a simple tool used to flatten dough. The first civilisation known to have used the rolling pin was the Etruscans. Their advanced farming ability, along with a tendency to cultivate many plants and animals never before used as food and turn them into sophisticated recipes, were passed to invading Greeks, Romans, and Western Europeans. Thanks to the Etruscans, these cultures are associated with gourmet cooking. To prepare their inventive foods, the Etruscans also developed a wide range of cooking tools, including the rolling pin. Although written recipes did not exist until the fourth century B.C., the Etruscans documented their love of food and its preparation in murals, on vases, and on the walls of their tombs. Cooking wares are displayed with pride; rolling pins appear to have been used first to thin-roll pasta that was shaped with cutting wheels. They also used rolling pins to make bread (which they called puls) from the large number of grains they grew. Natives of the Americas used more primitive bread-making tools that are favoured and unchanged in many villages. Chefs who try to use genuine methods to preserve recipes are also interested in both materials and tools. Hands are used as "rolling pins" for flattening dough against a surface, but also for tossing soft dough between the cook's two hands until it enlarges and thins by handling and gravity. Tortillas are probably the most familiar bread made this way. Over the centuries, rolling pins have been made of many different materials, including long cylinders of baked clay, smooth branches with the bark removed, and glass bottles. As the development of breads and pastries spread from Southern to Western and Northern Europe, wood from local forests was cut and finished for use as rolling pins. The French perfected the solid hardwood pin with tapered ends to roll pastry that is thick in the middle; its weight makes rolling easier. The French also use marble rolling pins for buttery dough worked on a marble slab. Glass is still popular; in Italy, full wine bottles that have been chilled make ideal rolling pins because they are heavy and cool the dough. Countries known for their ceramics make porcelain rolling pins with beautiful decorations painted on the rolling surface; their hollow centres can be filled with cold water (the same principle as the wine bottle), and cork or plastic stoppers cap the ends. Designs for most rolling pins follow long-established practices, although some unusual styles and materials are made and used. Within the family of wooden rolling pins, long and short versions are made as well as those that are solid cylinders (one-piece rolling pins) instead of the familiar style with handles. Very short pins called mini rolling pins make use of short lengths of wood and are useful for one-handed rolling and popular with children and collectors. Mini pins ranging from 5 to 7 in (12.7-17.8 cm) in length are called texturing tools and are produced to create steam holes and decorations in pastry and pie crusts; crafters also use them to imprint clay for art projects. These mini pins are made of hardwoods (usually maple) or plastic. Wood handles are supplied for both wood and plastic tools, however. Blown glass rolling pins are made with straight walls and are solid or hollow. Ceramic rolling pins are also produced in hollow form, and glass and ceramic models can be filled with water and plugged with stoppers. Tapered glass rolling pins with stoppers were made for many centuries when salt imports and exports were prohibited or heavily taxed. The rolling pin containers disguised the true contents. The straight-sided cylinder is a more recent development, although tapered glass pins are still common craft projects made by cutting two wine bottles in half and sealing the two ends together so that the necks serve as handles at each end.Tiny rolling pins are also twisted into shape using formed wire. The pins will not flatten and smooth pastry, and the handles do not turn. The metal pins are popular as kitchen decorations and also to hang pots, pans, and potholders. https://www.encyclopedia.com/sports-and-everyday-life/food-and-drink/food-and-cooking/rolling-pinThe use of the rolling pin to make thin pastry or pasta.Wooden rolling pin with some damage on cylinder section.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, rolling pin, cooking, pastry

Enamelware dates back to 1760 in Germany.People wanted a way of coating iron to stop metallic tastes or rust getting into food: something acid-resistant and easy to clean without laborious scouring, something more durable than the tin linings used inside copper. http://www.oldandinteresting.com/enamelware-history.aspxWhite enamel cup with dark blue ring around lip and handle. Slightly rusted. Rounded shape unlike a mug.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, tableware, enamel, cup, mug

A toasting fork is a three pronged fork designed to be used to toast things over an open fireplace. Classically, a toasting fork could be stuck into a piece of bread and used to hold the bread in the fire, with a periodic rotation for even browning. For advanced players, it's possible to use a toasting fork to make toasted cheese sandwiches and other hot sandwiches. A typical toasting fork is made of wire, and many modern ones are telescopic, allowing people to fold the fork up or slide the handle in when not in use. This makes toasting forks easier to store and transport, while allowing people to keep their hands well clear of the fire when the fork is in use. The three slender prongs can be of varying length, depending on the design; prongs which are too long will mangle the bread, while short prongs will allow the bread to slide off, so most designers try to strike a happy medium. Before the arrival of gas and electric cook stoves, households relied on heavy duty wood and coal fired cookers, or simply open fireplaces. Such stoves required a great deal of energy and maintenance to run, so when someone wanted a quick snack, toasting something over an open fire could be much more appealing than wrestling with the cooker. Some people also undoubtedly found the experience of toasting something over an open fire to be enjoyable. https://www.delightedcooking.com/what-is-a-toasting-fork.htmIn the old days, there were no electric toasters, so the toasting fork used near an open flame proved extremely effective.Fork with three prongs with hook design on the two outside prongs. Neck features decorative twisted design and there is more decorative work in the metal near the bone handle.None. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

Glass manufacturing has evolved over thousands of years. Glass making has been traced back to 3500 BC in Mesopotamia. The earliest known glass objects were beads, perhaps made by accident while working with metal. In the late Bronze Age, several civilizations discovered how to make vessels and glass bottles by wrapping threads of melted glass around cores of sand or clay. Later, moulds were used to form dishes and table wares. Around the 1st century BC, glassblowing was discovered. This made glass containers less expensive than pottery. Mould-blown glass, the process of blowing a piece of molten glass into a wooden or metal mould, was invented during the 1st century AD. This technique was faster with more consistent results. It paved the way for mass production. It wasn’t until the late 1800s that the production process to become more efficient. In 1887, a company in England created a semi-automatic process that could produce up to 200 bottles an hour. This process has been refined to the point where modern machines can yield more than 600 containers per minute. Blown vs. Manufactured Glass Bottles Nowadays, glass bottles, jars, and cups are usually manufactured on a bigger scale than is found in individual glassblowing studios. If we still depended on hand-blown glass for all of our glass containers, we would see some major differences in the process of creating bottles and jars. First, there's the time. Hand blowing glass takes a significant amount of time, even for one simple container. In contrast, hundreds of jars per minute can be made using modern technology. This leads to the second advantage: price. Because of the automated and streamlined process, the price for manufactured containers is much lower than that of hand-blown glass. Third, manufactured bottles will be much more consistently uniform than bottles blown by hand. Automated glass manufacturing produces nearly identical batches of jars. Glass blowing is awesome for unique, beautiful pieces of art. But for lots of lower priced and uniformly shaped containers, automatic manufacturing is the preferred method to create glass bottles and jars. https://www.containerandpackaging.com/resources/glass-bottles-brief-history The invention and development of glass for domestic items including bottles, has been nothing short of revolutionary. The use of glass bottles, that could be easily washed, led to improved hygiene, and mass manufacturing of drinks of all types, including milk, cordial and alcoholic beverages.Green Glass Bottle Possibly a ginger beer bottle.Concave indentation at the base. Also on base are two raised lumps. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, glass

Enamel cookware became very popular because people wanted a way of coating iron to stop metallic tastes or rust getting into food: something acid-resistant and easy to clean without laborious scouring, something more durable than the tin linings used inside copper. Enamelware dates back to 1760 in Germany.This object is significant as an example of an item in common use in the 19th and early 20th centuries.Oblong shaped enamel dish. The white enamel has been discoloured on the inside and much rust has occurred. The remains of a blue enamel line around rim.Two large rust holes in base, and a small rust hole near rim. None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, enamel, kitchenware, baking

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

Wooden spoons were common utensils in colonial days and are still used today. The spoon is an example of kitchen utensils made and used in colonial Australia.Spoon wooden blonde, rod handle, oval shape base with flat top flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, spoon, wooden spoon, kitchen utensil, cooking utensil

Households from the 18th century onwards used a hot iron to removed wrinkles and creases in fabric such as clothing, table and bed linen This simple iron stand provided a rest for a hot iron between use during an ironing session and a place for the iron to cool when the session was completed. This item is associated with domestic life during the 19th and early 20th centuries. Triangular shaped stand made from metal rods welded together at feet. Painted black.flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, iron stand, triangular iron stand, ironing, laundry equipment

A funnel such as this is used to assist in pouring liquids into a narrow container such as a bottle or jar. An item like this could be commonly used in households for food preparation, cooking and soap making. It could also be used for pouring fuel, and medicinal purposes. Enamelware dates back to 1760 in Germany.This object is significant as an example of a type of item in common use in the 19th Century and that is still in use today.Funnel, white enamel with dark rusty metal rim. It has a triangular shaped hook on the top lip for hanging. The metal has been joined down one side.None.flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, funnel, food preparation, beverage, laundry, fuel, food preservation, medicinal preparation, decanting, pouring

This stove brush is shaped to fit into grooves and crevices on a cast iron stove range and fenders. A brush like this would be used in the 19th and early 290th centuries to apply a blackening agent to the metal to clean and preserve it would be polished to make it look more attractive.This object is significant as an example of an item in common use in the 19th and early 20th centuries.Stove brush, wooden with wooden raised handle and black bristles. The bristles at the ends of the brush are longer than in the centre, and flare outwards. The brush' is rounded at one end and pointed at the other.flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, cast iron stove, oven range, stove brush, blackening brush, cooking, kitchen equipment, wood fired stove

This fire poker is a basic design that has been used throughout the centuries to attend to a fire for cooking, heating, firing a boiler and similar domestic activities.This object is significant as an example of an item in common use in the 19th and early 20th centuries and is still in use today.Fire poker; a flat metal bar shaped with ring at one end and a right angle bend at the base. It is painted black.flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, poker, fire poker, fire iron, heating, cooking, laundry, tending a fire