This bowl was imported from "the mother" country (England) in the period when good table ware was either shipped from England or Europe. It was in the period before the American and Asian imports were sought (post World War II and the depression/recession years), when only the best quality kitchenware was preferred and the cheaper mass produced goods were not on the market. The maker's details on the bottom puts the manufacture time between 1955 to 1962.This item, used by one of the Kiewa Valley's oldest established families provides the historical provenance for the item and the period purchased within the time frame when change in the purchasing (in cities) practices from traditional sources, England and Europe was slowly evolving from these sources to cheaper USA and Asian producers. This change however was slower in rural sectors than the cities and larger rural towns. The "traditional" sources was ingrained into the mores of rural sections and changing economic ties with Asia and the USA connected to the greater influx of dinner wares and the cheaper produce. The "throw away" society mores , developed in the USA, after World War II, and transferred to Australia by new technology driven media outlets had a very effective outcome for the demise of quality products from the "mother" country.This buff coloured glazed ceramic bowl was manufactured by an official potter to Her Majesty Queen Victoria. It has a "patterned" top rim but no other details.On the outside bottom the makers seal "Est. 1792" and in a double lined scroll like frame "RIDGEWAY" underneath in smaller print "Made In England".ceramic bowls, kitchen crockery, domestic plates

Karl Duldig’s ceramic bowl is a particularly interesting example of Karl’s ability to creatively respond to a new environment with a fresh visual repertoire, in this case, the flowering Eucalyptus in a design reminiscent of traditional European folk art. The bowl is an excellent example of the utilitarian and decorative studio pottery produced by Karl and his wife Slawa Horowitz-Duldig between 1944 and 1960. Clay was an important medium for Karl. When he was forced to flee Austria for Switzerland, working with clay became a convenient medium; and he continued to expand his use of clay in Singapore. In Australia his work in clay extended from domestic hand-made pottery to public sculptures and architectural reliefs. In 1944 Duldig purchased a kiln, which was installed in the garage of the family’s St. Kilda flat, soon after a pottery wheel was acquired. It was the beginning of a cottage industry that supplemented the family income during the war years and beyond. Duldig initially sold his decorative ceramic wares through a local florist in St. Kilda, and subsequently through shops such as the Chez Nous French Art Shop (Howey Place) and Light and Shade (Royal Arcade), and the Primrose Pottery shop in Collins Street. The Primrose Pottery shop was an extremely important commercial outlet, and hub, for emerging artists, potters and designers from 1929 until 1974. Its proprietors Edith and Betty MacMillan worked closely with their suppliers, commissioning and taking items on consignment. In the post war period important Melbourne studio potters such as Allan Lowe, Arthur Boyd, John Perceval and Neil Douglas exhibited and sold domestic wares in the Primrose Pottery shop. The Duldigs studio pottery provides a counterpoint to the ceramics produced at Arthur Merric Boyd Pottery in Murrumbeena, which was established in 1944 by Arthur Boyd, John Perceval and Peter Herbst. The emphasis on painterly decoration was important and the AMB potters also produced simple household wares decorated with Australian flora and wildlife, for example Neil Douglas also made small bowls decorated with the fairy wrens, lyrebirds, gumnuts and eucalypts. Ann Carew 2016The Duldig Studio’s collection of ceramics has national aesthetic and historic significance. It contains a representative sample of works of art in ceramics created by Karl Duldig during his lifetime, including small sculptures, as well as functional and novelty items for the tourist market during the 1956 Melbourne Olympic Games. The artist’s working methods and the development of his practice are comprehensively demonstrated in the collection. This in-situ collection demonstrates the philosophy of the Vienna Secession and its inheritors that handcrafted, simple functional domestic wares might enrich both the lives of the maker and the user. This bowl is part of a collection of ceramics that has national historic significance in providing a rich illustration of an immigrant and artistic experience, and touching on the themes of settlement adaptation of artistic practice. The collection is also associated with places of cultural and historical significance in Melbourne such as the Primrose Pottery Shop, and the story of Australian studio ceramics in the post-war years. Ann Carew 2016Cream earthenware bowl with flowering gum motif and sponged green background.Duldig in script incised under.

Robert Keys,1818-87 b.Ireland, arrived Australia 1841 and joined parents on a farm in Brighton.Victoria. 1870 he commenced his own 15 acre 'fruit garden' in Keys Rd Moorabbin and in 1881-82 was awarded the 'Leader Cup', by the Leader Newspaper, as the Winner of the Brighton Horticultural Society 'Best Fruit Garden' competition. Robert Keys, early settler 1841, was a talented orchardist , Brighton Councillor 1860 and Moorabbin City Coucillor until his death 1887. Item donated by Keys Family c1985 The 1879 Schedule of Prizes booklet of the Brighton Historical Society ( MAV 00022),describes in detail this trophy, prize moneys and rules and regulations of the competition. The booklet, cat. no. 00022, is on display with this trophyThis item is significant because of its connection with the Keys Family who were early settlers in District of Brighton/ Moorabbin and were greatly involved in community activities. After the 1841 Dendy Special Survey allotments of land were sold or rented to pioneer settlers who developed market gardens, fruit farms ( orchards), vineyards, poultry farms in the area now known as Bentleigh, Cheltenham, Oakleigh. They were very proud of their fine produce and hence enthusiastically entered these 'Annual Exhibitions' by the Brighton Horticultural Society.The Sterling Silver goblet shaped Trophy. Base has engraved beaded rim with chevron type motif. Embossed ring midway up stem and fern leaves engraved on bowl of goblet engraved on bowl of goblet " Brighton Horticultural Society/ 1881-82/ Leader Cup/ Awarded To/ Robert Keys/ For Best Fruit Garden/ Brighton District." Hallmarked 'GU', Birmingham, UK. George Unite circa 1880keys robert, trophy, 1881, leader newspaper, leader cup, brighton, horticultural, silver cup, silver, moorabbin, brighton horticultural society

Bradley and Hubbard Co. 1869 to 1940. Pat'd 1895 - 1898.Used by a Kiewa Valley residentNickel plate body with glass chimney and large white lamp shade. Both bowl and base are panelled and the base is scrolled on the edge. The bowl has a fill cap inscribed B & H and opposite there is a ratchet wheel lift. On top of the bowl is a decorated cylinder which lifts up to enable the lamp to be lit with a match. The glass chimney sits on top. There are 3 curved equally spaced rods coming up around this cylinder - to hold up the shade.Embossed on Fill Cap lid: "B & H" Embossed on top of bowl "Dec. 1885 / No. 4 Radiant / The/ B & H" and opposite "Pat'd Aug. 16 1888" Embossed on side under the 'grate': Pat'd Feb. 16 '97" Painted on glass chimney: "Griffen - Brand / dragon logo / Fire Proof / Madein Saxony / Rochester / No. 2lamp, lantern, bradley & hubbard, kerosene, oil light

Mixing bowls of this design were a common item in Austrailan kitchens in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. At this time the majority of women worked at home looking after their family and producing home-cooked meals. This type of bowl was a common domestic appliance used daily in Australian homes.This item is typical of kitchen utensils used in Australian homes in the early 20th century. No clear provence determined3 ceramic round mixing bowls of various widths - 340 mm, 300 mm and 265 mm. Each bowl has a pouring lip and decorative scallop relief around body. There is no indication of makers mark or source of production.Nonemixing bowl, domestic appliances

This bowl was used by the State Electricity Commission of Victoria in their mess rooms for their workers during the construction of the Kiewa Hydro Electric Scheme. The imprint of the year "1921" was to identify the year that the SECV was formed which relieved the private VHEC (Victorian Hydro-Electric Company). As the scheme was of such a huge scope, isolated and time consuming nature, the feeding of its workers was quite demanding of cutlery and crockery. The use of sturdy English cups and saucers was essential. The period of construction and the isolation of the Kiewa Valley area placed heavy demand for "solid" crockery that could wear abusive handling. This period in time was one when crockery, whether for domestic or commercial use, was imported from "mother" England. This scenario was more so for governmental bodies such as rail, jails and electricity providers than domestic users. The influx of cheaper Asian crockery had not yet begun.This type of crockery item was used by the thousands of SEC Victorian staff and construction workers involved in the building of the Kiewa Hydro Electricity Scheme, over the extensive period (1938 to 1961). This was a period when Government bodies and other semi- government organisations were still tied to the "establishments" of "mother" England. It was a period in Australia's development when the Asian influence was very weak and the established ties to England and Europe was still very strong. The majority of heavy equipment and machinery was either made in England or Europe. Local/European expertise in dam construction and water management in alpine terrain came from migrants and specialist recruited from England and Europe. The quality of workmanship from big steel manufacturing plants in England and Europe could not be matched from anywhere else in the developed world.This item is a white ceramic State Electricity Commission of Victoria bowl. It is made in England and is of strong and durable ceramic. The 5mm thickness of the ceramic suggests this bowl (cereal/soup) belongs to a commercial kitchen environment and not domestic. The indent bottom of the bowl is 5mm deep with a side curvature ratio of 2:5. The ceramic is glazed to a commercial standard (worker's mess). See also KVHS 0128 (B to D) for other ceramic crockery. The seal of the State Electricity Commission of Victoria is imprinted on the top outside rim within a curved scroll and a raised fist with electrical "charges" extending out.. Snuggled within the borders of the scroll is a banner with the five stars of the Southern Cross . On the underside "Vitrified sold by Cafe & Hotel Supplies Pty Ltd Dunn Bennett & Co. Ltd. Burslem Made in England"ceramic crockery, plate, secv, state electricity commission of victoria, crockery, mt beauty chalet, bogong mess hall

The mortar is a bowl, typically made of hard wood, ceramic or stone. The pestle is a heavy club-shaped object, the end of which is used for crushing and grinding. The substance to be ground is placed in the mortar and ground, crushed or mixed with the pestle. The mortar and pestle is usually utilised when cooking and when crushing ingredients for a certain drug in pharmacies. For pharmaceutical use, the mortar and the head of the pestle are usually made of porcelain, while the handle of the pestle is made of wood. This is known as a Wedgwood mortar and pestle and originated in 1779. Glass mortars and pestles are fragile, but stain-resistant and suitable for use with liquids. However, they do not grind as finely as the ceramic type The mortar is a thick clear glass bowl and the pestle is a solid clear glass club-shaped tool for crushing tablets to a finer powder or mixing liquids by a pharmacist.pharmacy, mortar & pestle, medications, medicines, glass manufacturing, glass works, early settlers, moorabbin, bentleigh, cheltenham

The mortar is a bowl, typically made of hard wood, ceramic or stone. The pestle is a heavy club-shaped object, the end of which is used for crushing and grinding. The substance to be ground is placed in the mortar and ground, crushed or mixed with the pestle. The mortar and pestle is usually utilised when cooking and when crushing ingredients for a certain drug in pharmacies. For pharmaceutical use, the mortar and the head of the pestle are usually made of porcelain, while the handle of the pestle is made of wood. This is known as a Wedgwood mortar and pestle and originated in 1779Glass mortars and pestles are fragile, but stain-resistant and suitable for use with liquids. However, they do not grind as finely as the ceramic type The mortar is a thick clear glass bowl and the pestle is a solid clear glass club-shaped tool used by pharmacists for crushing tablets to a finer powder or mixing liquids pharmacy, mortar & pestle, medications, medicines, glass manufacturing, glass works, early settlers, moorabbin, bentleigh, cheltenham

Ampol Wayne Petrol Bowser - metal, painted red top-half and blue bottom - back and front identical with authentic logos placed below the glass encaseddial showing quantity and cost of fuel dispensed. Above dial is smaller circular bowl showing fuel level. One side showing metal fittings for dispensing fuel and attaching hose and both sides have Ampol logos on lower half. Pump bolted to concrete pad for display.Silver plaque with "WAYNE" below dispensing dial. Decal 'showing "Ampol" logo' on all sides and 'BORON" front and back. Plaque reading 'THIS BOWL MUST BE FULL/BEFORE AND AFTER DELIVERY" on front and back under small bowl. Sticker reading 'THIS FUEL MAY CONTAIN/LEAD AND IS TO BE USED/AS MOTOR FUELD ONLY".ampol, petrol bowsers, service stations

Carnival glass is moulded or pressed glass, always with a pattern and always with a shiny, metallic, 'iridescent' surface shimmer. Carnival glass gets its iridescent sheen from the application of metallic salts while the glass is still hot from the pressing. A final firing of the glass brings out the iridescent properties of the salts, giving carnival glass the distinct shine it is known for. (ref. Wikipedia) This bowl belonged to Mrs Edith May Hanrahan (nee Whitford), a WW1 war bride, who came to Orbost around 1920 on the Orcades. Oliver ( a farm hand) and Edith Hanrahan lived at 37 Gladstone Street, Orbost.This item is an excellent example of amber / orange carnival glass.A bronze / apricot glass sweets bowl. It is orange carnival glass with flowers cut into the base and scalloped edges. It has a small handle on each side. the base is flat. carnival-glass bowl hanrahan-edith

Chinese rough stoneware dish, in two pieces that has been repaired. One fragment missing.. Terracotta colour.Chinese characters stamped on the bowl of the dish.dish, chinese, goldfields, stoneware

Nancy Hawley requested one of a pair come to the Emerald Museum . It was brought back from Japan by a friend of Noni Smith after World War 2. Noni Smith was Mr Murphy's nurse for many years Noni died at the age of 90 years . She was principal of Emerald Primary School. She was very involved with the recovery after Ash Wednesday 1983 firesJapanese Incense Burner Circa early 19th centuryFloral Bowl with Figured Legs and Topjapanese insense burner

This trophy was awarded in 1933 as a championship cup by the South Western District Rifle Clubs Union. Rifle Clubs have been operating in Warrnambool since 1860 and in 1904 the South Western District Rifle Clubs Union was formed. The donor of the trophy, James Fairbairn (1897-1940) was a pastoralist, aviator and politician. He served with the Royal Flying Corps in World War One and was injured and captured by the Germans. When he returned to Australia he acquired Mount Elephant Station near Derrinallum, Victoria and continued his interest in flying, becoming an expert on aviation. In politics he was firstly the member for Warrnambool in the Victorian Legislative Assembly and then held the Federal House of Representatives seat of Flinders. He was the Minister for Civil Aviation and in 1939 became the Minister for Air. He was killed in an aircraft accident in Canberra in 1940.This trophy is of considerable interest because it is a 20th century memento of the rifle clubs in the Warrnambool district and because of its association with James Fairbairn, a notable Western District personality in the first half of the 20th century. This is a silver-coloured metal bowl soldered on to a supporting stem on a circular base. There are two handles on each side of the bowl. The top of the bowl is covered with wire mesh with the original idea that the bowl could hold flowers (hence the name ‘rose bowl’). The bowl is inscribed on one side. The item is very tarnished.‘Paramount Plate Regd. EPNS Quality Plate Warranted Hand Soldered’ ‘Championship Cup No 12. South Western District Rifle Clubs Union’ ‘Presented by J. V. Fairbairn, Esq. M.L.A. 1933’ warrnambool rifle club, south western district rifle clubs union

This item is an early type of cooker and would have been used to cook meat and puddings in the first two or three decades of the 20th century. It has no known local provenance but may have been a display item from the old Warrnambool Museum which was established in 1883 and was dismantled in the 1960s. This item, although incomplete, is of interest as a cooking bowl from the past and is retained for display purposes. This is a circular-shaped white china bowl. The base has a hollow tube protruding up through the centre of the bowl. There is printing on the outside of the bowl and on the top inside section. The lid of the bowl is missing. The ‘Quick Cooker’ Patent No 12161/11 Gold Medal London 1911 Excellent for stews of all kind Meat can be kept hot for hours without over-cooking or getting dry Grimwade’s Patent Nos 12835/09, 15043/09 Do not fill above this line – The pudding then has room to expand Water in saucepan should also be about this level ----- vintage culinary items, history of warrnambool, quick cooker

The Queen Victoria Monument by Australian Sculptor Sir Bertam MacKennal has a granite plinth with 4 bronze picture plates and granite bowl. The work was once a drinking fountain with decorative bronze spouts and taps set into the columned granite base. Queen Victoria died 22 January 1901, this work was commissioned and gifted to the City of Ballarat by the Woman’s Christian Temperance Union. This work marked the end of her long reign on the English throne and as Empress of the British Empire including Australia. This magnificent statue commemorates the reign of Queen Victoria (1837 - 1901), and is located in Sturt Street, Ballarat, just outside the Town Hall. Listed on the Victorian Heritage Database (B7272), the Queen Victoria Monument is significant to the people of Victoria. The Queen Victoria Monument, Ballarat, is a key component of Sturt Street in Ballarat, a notable streetscape of the late Victorian era. It represents a pivotal element in the extensive series of public art forms erected during the late nineteenth century in the heyday of Ballarat and added to during the twentieth century. The Queen Victoria Monument is an over life size statue mounted on a freestone pedestal containing four bronze relief interpretive plaques. It is situated in front of the Ballarat Town Hall, a prominent position on the wide notable picturesque boulevard of Sturt Street. The presence of the monument in the notable Sturt Street gardens precinct together with other significant statues is of importance. The Queen Victoria Monument at Ballarat is historically significant as a fine example of a tribute to the reigning monarch, initiated by citizens, on the occasion of her Diamond Jubilee, prior to her death. It reflects the fervour of the citizens of the town that played an important role in the development of the State of Victoria during the latter half of the nineteenth century. The Monument is important for its aesthetic characteristics in that it displays a combination of excellent examples of the artistry and technical skills of the sculptor E.B. MacKennal. These elements are evident in design, carving, and in casting of relief modelling.Sicilian marble statue of Queen Victoria with hand outstretched holding the Sovereign's Orb with small gold angel figure. Includes granite plinth with 4 bronze elements and granite bowl. Victoria Dei Gratia Britt Regina Fid. Def. Ind. Imp. 1900. Incorporates four fine bronze scenes from her life; Accession to the Throne (1837), Coronation (1838), Diamond Jubilee (1897) and Signing of the Constitution of the Australian Commonwealth (1900).queen victoria

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

Blown and sandblasted glassEngraved on foot of bowl "Tony Hanning '95"

White china feeding bowl for infants with black cats on border and base of bowl.domestic items, infants

Carnival glass bowl with an etched Berry design, and bowl is standing on three feet.

A circular bowl on a raised round base with a ridged rim. It is a silver plated copper bowl.On bottom : A.J. Quality Sterling Silver platedcontainer bowl silver-plated

Thought to be made at the Ballarat Junior Technical School.A planished brass bowl with a turned and planished base soldered together, then soldered onto the bowl.ballarat junior technical school, metalwork, bowl, metalcraft

Hand carved wooden pipe with long stem and large bowl metal insert in bowl.personal effects, smoking accessories, pipe

Boxed miniature of the Lexus Melbourne Cup, gold with round bowl and 2 handles on bowl.Proudly manufactured by ABC Bullion, a Pallion company.lexus melbourne cup

Part of the crockery used on the "S.S.Casino" one of the Belfast and Koroit Steam Navigation Company ships used on the Melbourne-Port Fairy -Portland run. Sank in 1937 in Apollo Bay.Bowl: large white soup bowl with the inscription of the Belfast & Koroit Steam navigation Company"Belfast & Koroit S N Co Ltdlocal history, domestic items, crockery, belfast and koroit steam navigation company, s.s.casino

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic