Set of 7 Agfa Colour slide, cardboard mount, by Keith Caldwell of 10 March 1960 - .1 - X2 677 - at the Williamstown Road terminus of the Footscray tram system. Tram photographed in Somerville Road, showing the return destination of Russell St. In the background are a row of shops. .2 - X1 460 turning from Leeds St into Barkly St. Tram has the destination of Ballarat Road. In the background is the bus stop and tram stop and the Trocadero Theatre side wall. See Image i6 for the Theatre. Has a Gant Motors advert. .3 - X1 467 out bound turning into Nicholson St from Irving St. Footscray with the Rockmans Store in the background. This store was later demolished for the Ring Road. Tram has adverts for Gant Motors and Swing Bridge Motors - Holdens. .4 - X1 460 turning from Barkly St into Leeds St, showing the destination of Ballarat Road. Has adverts for Calders watches and Coca Cola - drive safely. In the background is a cafe advertising Oysters, Grey Cigarettes and Vincents Powders. .5 - X1 464 turnings from Nicholson St into Irving St. Footscray with the Rockmans Store in the background. This store was later demolished for the Ring Road. Also is J. Boltons Chemist shop advertising Kodak film and another shop - ? dry cleaners, Footscray Fish Shop and Kings Hotel. Tram has adverts for Gant Motors and Doods Dry cleaning. There is a PMG truck parked outside Rockmans. .6 - X2 677 turning from Barkly St into Leeds St with the Trocadero Theatre in the background. Tram has the destination of Williamstown Road. Tram has an advert for Bridge and Webster. .7 - X1 467 outbound to Williamstown Road, turning from Leeds St into Irving St Footscray. Tram has adverts for Doods dry cleaning and Gant Motors.All hand stamped "10 Mar '60". .1 - marked "Footscray" .2 - "Footscray (NB curves)" .3 - to .7 "Footscray"trams, tramways, footscray, x2 class, russell st, williamstown rd, leeds st, ballarat rd, barkly st, nicholson st, irving st, tram 677, tram 460, tram 467, tram 464

1. Shirt - light khaki colour cotton/polyester fabric, short sleeves, shoulder epaulettes, two front pockets with button down flap, plastic buttons. Left sleeve - fabric patch, embroidered 'Rising Sun Badge' "THE AUSTRALIAN ARMY", white cotton manufacturers label, back below collar. 2. Trousers - khaki colour wool/ polyester fabric. Service dress style with fob pocket, two side pockets, one back pocket with concealed button down flap. Plastic buttons and metal zipper fly. Khaki polyester fabric lining waist and pocket lining. White cotton manufacturers label back pocket lining.Manufacturers information on labels - black ink print. 1. "ADA/ 2910002/ JUN 2001/ NSN: 8405 66 133 5955/ SIZE 40/ NAME/ SERVICE NO/ 65% POLYESTER/ 35% COTTON/ MADE IN AUSTRALIA" 2. "ADA/ 4500299219/ 2005/ NSN: 8405 66 140 7088/ SIZE W821L 78/ NAME/ SERVICE NO/ 50% WOOL 50% POLYESTER/ DRY CLEAN ONLY (P) / REPRESS ON ORIGINAL/ CREASES. USE DAMP CLOTH/ OR MEDIUM TO HOT/ STEAM IRON/ MADE IN AUSTRALIA"uniform, army, service dress

This jacket is part of a Royal Australian Army Ordnance Corps uniform. The Royal Australian Army Ordnance Corps (RAAOC) is responsible for various logistics and organisational operations, such as maintenance of parachutes, fuel distribution, personnel administration, exlosive disposal and laundy operations. The jacket was manufactured in 1968 and was worn by an unknown RAAOC serviceman. The patches on his sleeves denote that he had earned qualifications as a parachuter and a marksman and that he was a Warrant Officer 1. Due to the period of manufacture it can be presumed that the serviceman whom this uniform belonged to served Vietnam War.As an historic military uniform dating to 1968, it is presumed that this item would have been used in service during the Vietnam War. The wearer of the uniform is unknown, however the patches and flashes attached signify that the serviceman worked for the Royal Australian Army Ordnance Corps, earned qualifications as a parachuter and marksman and ranked highly as a Warrant Officer 1. The item is representative of a type of uniform worn by high ranking RAAOC servicemen during the 1960’s. It is also in very good condition for its age.A khaki coloured waist length jacket which is composed of a heavy fabric. The jacket fastens with five buttons down the front and a buckle. The buttons are composed of brown plastic and the buckle is a dark grey metal. The buckle is attached to a waistband on the right-hand side which loops around to a strip of fabric on the left-hand side which passes through the buckle. There are two breast pockets, one on each side of the chest. The right breast pocket is fastened with a brown plastic button and the left breast pocket is missing its button. Each pocket has a flap of fabric which covers the button area. The jacket has a collar and an epaulette on each shoulder which are each fastened with one brown plastic button. There is a ribbon of fabric on the interior of the collar with no inscriptions. There are identical crescent shaped red patches on each shoulder, each showing the words in navy blue stitching "Royal Australian Army Ordinance Corps". The upper right sleeve has a khaki coloured parachuting qualification patch, which depicts an air balloon in white stitching, with wings on either side in light blue stitching. The lower section of each sleeve has a Warrant Officer First Class khaki coloured patch. This depicts a shield in red, black, white, blue and gold stitching in the centre which sits beneath a gold and blue striped line and a gold star. There is a gold kangaroo to the left of these motifs and a gold emu to the right. Beneath these motifs there is a ribbon in white, blue and gold stitching with the word "Australia". In addition there are curvilinear green decorative elements with yellow flowers on their ends. The left-hand sleeve also has a brown marksmen qualification patch. This depicts two crossed rifles in white and brown stitching. There is a white label with printed inscriptions on the interior of the left breast pocket. There is also a band of fabric on the interior back waist band which has three button holes.Printed in black inscriptions on the white label: E.W. PTY/LTD. SOUTH AUSTRALIA 1968 (a broad arrow) Class 8405-66-025-641 Batch A.W... Mill (the ‘A.W...’ is in stamped purple ink and there are some other purple inscriptions that are difficult to decipher) SIZE OF CHEST 39/49PR MATCHING TROUSERS 37 PR DRY CLEAN ONLY CREASE UPPER HALF OF LAPELS ONLY NAME..... ARMY No..... (the number 40 is also wrtten in faded black ink in the top right corner of the label)military, jacket, army, raaoc, royal australian army ordnance corps, parachuting, marksman, warrant officer, uniform

Standard dress uniform jacket for soldiers.Khaki coloured single breasted jacket fastened with four centre plastic buttons and a belt. Belt attached to jacket on back via two leather loops buttoned around a fabric loop. Jacket carries two breast pockets on exterior with flap, each fastened with single plastic button and two metal press studs. Two hip pockets with flaps, unfastened. Interior is lined with synthetic fabric; one interior chest pocket on the left hand side underneath which is a manufacturers label (transcribed below). Small square paper tag sewn into left jacket interior (transcribed below).Interior label reads "E.W. P/LTD./SOUTH AUSTRALIA/1968/[broad arrow symbol]/SIZE 36 SHORT/CLASS 8406/66-019-8479/ARMY No./NAME/DRY CLEAN ONLY./REPRESS USING IRON AND DAMP CLOTH OR MEDIUM TO HOT STEAM IRON./CREASE UPPER HALF OF LAPELS ONLY." Written on the label is handwritten text "J.V." And "12/0L/0/67." Stamped in purple ink "BATCH No./385." Paper tag reads "62000/LOT 12 36S/GLOBE6/67."military, uniform, vietnam war, 1960s, dress uniform, beechworth, returned services league

Wool and polyester khaki dress trousers. Two pleats at the front. Fob pocket on the right front. Front zip with metal closure and button tag.. Pockets on the left and right hips. Pocket on the back right side with hidden button and button hole.Seven belt loops on waist band. Four small horizontal loops on the waist band, two at the front and two at the back. Label on the inside on the lining of the back pocket states - A.G.C.F. (Australian Government Clothing Factory) Vic 1989. 8405.66.018.5545. Macquarie 89. Batch U. Size 87.5L W.87.5 IL.82 Army No. Name. Dry clean only. re press on original creases use damp cloth or medium to hot steam iron. White tag on the waist band on the right back stating - Size 87.5L. Tag on the right hand side on the back above the pocket stating - This tag is for identification only. Please remove before wearing. Docket No. 1106512 Order No. 29743836 Size 87.5L Garment No. 20851A Remarks 6I11Manufacturer - A.G.C.F. VIC 1989polyesters, dress trousers, wool polyester

This uniform belonged to Sapper Hughes 3795948 of the Royal Australian Engineers Corps. By the date on the uniform, it is assumed that he served C 1968.This uniform has significance as an example of a uniform worn by soldier ranks for daily work and dress parades.Khaki coloured long trousers with attached suspenders. They have a button up front (5 brown plastic buttons). There are two pockets on either side of the trousers and one button up pocket on the back right with a flap that is fastened with a single brown plastic button. There are three extra brown plastic buttons on the back exterior of the waistband and six belt loops on the whole length of the waist band. The interior pocket fabric is more light weight and a slightly more green in colour. The interior of the right back pocket includes a white patch of fabric with printed inscriptions and further inscriptions written in black ink just above. The suspenders are composed mostly of blue, grey, beige, black and cream striped thick fabric. There are also silver coloured metallic components (which include inscriptions) and leather sections, most of which have a reddish/brown coating on the exterior and a white coating on the interior. One leather component has inscriptions in black ink on the interior as opposed to a white coating. The suspenders are attached to the trousers by six brown plastic buttons on the interior of the waistband. Back pocket interior inscriptions on the green fabric: HUGHES / 3795948 Back pockket interior inscriptions on the white fabric: E.W. P/LTD. / SOUTH AUSTRALIA / 1968 / (a symbol of a broad arrow) / Class 8405-66-025-6405 / Batch 67 / Mill / Size and Waist 28C / Matching Jacket 35 /36C / DRY CLEAN ONLY / CREASES SET BY SIROSET / REPRESS ON ORIGINAL CREASES / MENDING PATCH ATTACHED / NAME HUGHES. J.W. / ARMY No. 3795948 8PL Bcoj Identical metallic clip inscriptions on two of the suspenders: POLICE / (embossed image of a police baton)royal australian engineers, warrnambool rsl, warrnambool, engineer, hughes, sapper hughes, 3795948, hughes 3795948, uniform, army uniform, trousers, army

Donated by Lewe who is a local member of Beechworth RSL.The social significance is that it represents Lewe’s service and is shared by donating his jacket.Jacket service dress blue grey with insignia rank for leading aircraftsman on the upper sleeves of both arms.Shoulder flashes with the word,Australia , on both shoulders.8 gold buttons in parallel columns of 4.2 buttons one on each breast pockets.Gold airforce eagle on both upper lapels.Label on outside of inside right breast pocketCloth label 75mm wide by 80mm long. Faint grey no,s - “12 “at top left corner”,8051” at right corner and “12” on bottom left corner. Ink wording as follows: “KENTISH CLOTHES “ on top first line of label,”S.A./1972/Gov,t or Defence arrow sign/8405-66-037- 4802/size 39 REGULAR/MATCHING TROUSERS/35 WAIST/SERVICE NO” with dotted line for wearer to write on.This is blank. “NAME” with dotted line also blank.” DRY CLEAN ONLY/REPRESS WITH DAMP CLOTH/DO NOT SIRO-SET” on bottom of wording.jacket, service, dress

"W.J. BERTUCH" for service details Refer Cat No. 1664.2.1. Shirt - Khaki colour cotton/polyester long sleeve with shoulder epaulettes and brown plastic buttons. Two front pockets with button down flaps. Gold colour metal badge "AUSTRALIA" - on right epaulette. Manufacturers white cotton fabric label inside back below collar and bottom of shirt. 2. Trousers - khaki colour wool/polyester fabric. Service dress style with fob pocket, two side pockets, one back pocket with concealed button down flap. Brown plastic buttons and metal fly zip. 3. Belt - light brown colour nylon webbing, service dress style with black colour metal slide buckle. Manufacturers information on labels in black ink print. 1. Top - "CLASS - 8405/ 66-017-2261/ REGIMENTAL NO./ NAME". Handwritten black ink pen "VS38". Bottom "MACHINE WASHABLE/ DO NOT BOIL/ DRIP DRY/ WARM IRON/ SALCO/ VICTORIA/ 1966. Handwritten black ink pen "VS38". 2. Rt side label 'REGIMENTAL NO./ NAME". Left side label "Dry Clean only/ Repress on original crease/ use damp cloth or medium/ TO HOT STEAM IRON/ Mending patch attached." Handwritten - black ink pen "VS38". 3. Black ink stamp - "CGCF D^D 1957? 0108/ 5499". uniform, army, service dress, wj bertuch

These trousers are part of a Royal Australian Army Ordnance Corps uniform. The Royal Australian Army Ordnance Corps (RAAOC) is responsible for various logistics and organisational operations, such as maintenance of parachutes, fuel distribution, personnel administration, exlosive disposal and laundy operations. The trousers were manufactured in 1969 and were worn by an unknown RAAOC serviceman. The patches on the sleeves of the corresponding jacket denote that he had earned qualifications as a parachuter and a marksman and that he was a Warrant Officer 1. Due to the period of manufacture it can be presumed that the serviceman whom this uniform belonged to served in the Vietnam War.As historic military uniform trousers dating to 1968, it is presumed that this item would have been used in service during the Vietnam War. The wearer of the uniform is unknown, however the patches and flashes attached signify that the serviceman worked for the Royal Australian Army Ordnance Corps, earned qualifications as a parachuter and marksman and ranked highly as a Warrant Officer 1. The item is representative of a type of uniform worn by high ranking RAAOC servicemen during the 1960’s. It is also in very good condition for its age.khaki coloured trousers which are composed of a heavy fabric. The trousers button up at the front with 6 plastic buttons. There is an additional strip of fabric attached to the right-hand fly which can be fastened with an extra button on the interior of the left-hand fly. There are an additional 6 buttons along the interior waistband. There are also three buttons on the exterior waistband down the front and a buckle. The buttons are composed of brown plastic. There are two open hip pockets, one on either side, and another button-up pocket on the right-hand side of the back. There is a white label with inscriptions attached to the interior of the back pocket with an extra piece of fabric attached for mending patches.Printed in black inscriptions on the white label: CONWAY BROS. PTY. LTD ADELAIDE 1969 (a broad arrow) Class 8405-66-025-6183 A W M 7 (these characters are stamped in faded black ink) SIZE & WAIST 33R MATCHING JACKET 37-38R in a box are the words: DRY CLEAN ONLY. Re-press on original seams. Creases set by Si-ro-set. Mending patch attached. (end of box containing words) NAME.....DOCKSEY (‘Docksey is in hand-written black ink) ARMY No.....216308 (numbers also hand-written in black ink) (the number 40 is also wrtten in faded black ink in the top right corner of the label)military, army, raaoc, marksman, royal australian army ordnance corps, parachuting, warrant officer, uniform, trousers

1. Shirt - Khaki, polyester/cotton fabric, long sleeves with button cuffs, shoulder epaulettes, two front pockets with button down flap, brown plastic buttons. Cotton manufacturers labels top back of shirt and bottom back of shirt, with black print information. 2. Trousers - Khaki, polyester/cotton fabric, fob pocket, two side pockets, on back pocket with button down flap, metal zipper fly, brown plastic buttons. Three cotton manufacturers labels inside back waistband and back pocket lining with black print information. Polyester lining waistband and pockets. 3. Necktie - khaki cotton knit fabric with unfinished ends. 4. Lanyard - gold cotton cord with knots.Cotton label information - black ink print. 1. Top back of shirt "CLASS - 8405/66 - 017-2261/REGIMENTAL NO./NAME". Bottom back of shirt 'MACHINE WASHABLE/DO NOT BOIL/ DRIP DRY/ WARM IRON/ SALIO/ VICTORIA, 1966^" 2. Back right inside waistband "REGIMENTAL NO./ NAME". Back left inside waistband "Dry clean only/ repress on original creases/ use damp cloth or medium/TO HOT STEAM IRON/ Mending patch attached". Label on back pocket lining. John Sackville - sons/ -Aust - Pty Ltd/ Victoria 1966/^ size 31 RB/ W.31" 1/L 30 1/2/ CLASS 8405/66-018-5518. uniform, army, polyesters

1 Bottle O-158, LSA, Lube Oil Semi-Fluid, Mil-L-46000A Am 1, 9150-889-3522, LEHIGH CHEM . NUODEX DIV, TENNECO CHEM INC, DSA600-68-C-0225, PD-722, 4 OUNCES, SHAKE WELL. Marking on bottle base PLAX (each letter in a circle), 5. The roll of 4x2 is marked in section with red linesd. the segments are called 4x2 for ease of description but actually measure 4x13/4 inches or 45mm x 100mm. ! pull through kit for cleaning barrel and firing mechanism of l1 a1 & l22 a2 australian vietnam issue single shot and automatic versions.

Series of 7 black and white photographs of the traffic congestion in the CBD during 1951. .1 - Flinders St from Flinders St Station office looking northwest with a W2 317 Richmond route 28 and many cars. Has "32" on rear in pencil. Has Snows and the SEC building in the view. .2 - Spencer St bridge, looking north with Fish Market/Cool Stores and the VR Head Office in the view. Has Taylor and ? General Carriers and Nestle's truck in the view. .3 - William St? with passengers waiting at a safety zone - has the Dennys Lascelles building in the background. .4 - Flinders St looking north east with Snows, the SEC, a Hotel and Hearnes sign showing. Has a W2 436? route 27 Hawthorn eastbound. Typed on rear "Enlargement of No. 76, Sheet No. 28 (report P25/1/8), "Spare" written in pencil and "For Testing Engrs 1/11/51" in ink. .5 - looking north with a horse drawn cart and a SW6 (East Kew) with dash canopy lighting. .6 - looking north - with Hearnes Provisions, Olympia Inn and Coffee Lounge and Young & Jacksons Hotel. Has a W2 partly in the photo about to enter the Safety Zone. ..7 - similar to .1 - with Snows, W2 route 48 North Balwyn and a Pattons Dry Cleaning van. See also Reg 4519 for another 7 photos of the same series.trams, tramways, traffic control, congestion, flinders st, spencer st, route 27, route 28, east kew, richmond, route 48, william st, safety zone, hawthorn, tram 317, tram 436

Shoe polish is a waxy paste, cream, or liquid used to polish, shine, and waterproof leather shoes or boots to extend the footwear's life, and restore, maintain and improve their appearance. Shoe polish is not a cleaning product, and therefore the footwear should be both clean and dry before application. A cardboard box containing 1 jar of creme polish and 1 jar of gold powder with 2 cloths to be used for preserving 'silver kid shoes, slippers, bags etc.''top of box ' NU-KLEENER / SHOE DRESSING / GOLD KID / Cant B Beat ( drum soldier trade mark )' side THIS DRESSING IS SCIENTIFICALLY PREPARED BY EXPERTS TO ENSURE NOT ONLY A PERFECT FINISH, BUT ALSO AS A PRESERVATIVE OF THE ARTICLE TREATED,'/ Colour Shine Pty Ltd Melbourne. Instructions for use on either end of box . Inside lid a stamp 'Curton Co. Pty Ltd. Melbourne' Jar 1 'NU-KLEENER GOLD KID CREME' Jar 2 'NU-KLEENER GOLD KID POWDER'shoes, boots, clothing, boot preservation, leather, kid-leather, personal effects, handbags, moorabbin, colour shine pty ltd / curton co. pty. ltd

a) Nagaoka Record Anti-Static & Disc Guard Kit The Nagaoka STAT-10 is a record protecting agent that serves both to protect your records from static and to significantly reduce record and stylus wear. By using this product you will improve the sound that you hear from your records, but will also protect your records. The unique charge reducing formula significantly reduces the amount of static electricity present on the surface of the vinyl recording. It also reduces the irritating noise produced by the scratches present on the surface of the vinyl recording. This record protecting agent also contains a special lubricant / protecting fluid agent.This lubricant / protecting fluid reduces record wear so that your recordings are as good as new. b) 'PAROSTATIK' Disc preener -: Use while rotating record slowly on Turntable. Press gently during one or two revolutions. Dust collected on plush surface should be removed before re-use. Device has "built-in" anti-static requiring occasional moisture replacement. Remove cap from centre tube withdraw and moisten wick (when dry) with clean water and replace Always return "Parostatik" to case when not in use. Vinyl records became very popular mid 20thC and cleaners were used to preserve the audio quality of the record surface.A box containing Vinyl record cleaning equipment manufactured by a) Nagaoka Pty Ltd Japan and b) 'Parostatik' C.E Watts Pty Ltd England a ) Box : NAGAOKA / A / trademark / NAGAOKA / AUTOMATIC RECORD CLEANER / ORIGINAL BEST PRODUCTS / NAGAOKA & CO LTD. MADE IN JAPAN / AUTOMATIC / RECORD CLEANER / AUTO 1 / NAGAOKA ORIGINAL BEST PRODUCTS b) Packet ; THE / "PAROSTATIK" PATENT .... REGD./ IMPROVED / DISC PREENER / FOR PERFECT RECORD MAINTENANCE Cylinder; Watts / "PAROSTATIK" / DISC PREENER / For perfect record maintenancerecord players, music, vinyl records, moorabbin, bentleigh, cheltenham, japan, nagaoka pty ltd ,, watts c. e. pty ltd, parostatik disc preener, england

Pen-wipers or pen-cleaners were invented to prolong the usefulness of their pens by keeping them clean and dry between uses. This helped to prevent rusting of the nib from water-based inks. In the 1890s and 1900s, with the rise of the fountain pen, pen-cleaners remained a popular desktop accessory, since they could still be used to wipe away the excess ink from the nib and feed of a pen, once it had been refilled in an inkwell. Pen-cleaners died out in the second half of the 1900s when people started using ballpoint pens.This item is from Raper Collection donated to the Wodonga Historical Society by Mrs. Jean Raper. A blue/mauve glass bowl on 6 petal shaped metal feet. It contains a central black brush which was used to clean the ink from metal pen nibs.domestic items, writing implements, pen and ink

The Eltham Hardware and Timber Company first opened on Main Road opposite the Railway Station around late 1922. An advertisement placed in the Hurstbridge Advertiser advised that the Hardware Store had just opened with a varied stock of Saws, Hammers, Nails, Shovels, Screw Drivers, and every article required in a house or on a farm. People were also encouraged to try their Jams, Pickles, Sauces, Cups and Saucers, etc. A few months later in May 1923, William Walker, a plumber, placed an advertisement wishing to to announce that he had taken over the ELTHAM HARDWARE STORE, and asked for the continued support of the district. He also noted that all kinds of Plumbing work was done. Walker remained the proprietor of the Hardware Store for many years regularly advertising its services and wares up until at least 1941. The trail goes a bit quiet then but he does appear in the 1944 Electoral Roll listed as a Plumber, of Main Street, Eltham. However he is not listed in the 1949 Electoral Roll but his son, Thomas Roy Walker, also a plumber of Main Road is listed. Thomas had been on active duty overseas during the Second World War and returned at the end of 1945. It is assumed that William died sometime between 1945 and 1949. On November 18th, 1950 the Hardware Store and residence was auctioned on site by Scarff Bros. Pty Ltd. It is presumed that this is when J.N. Burgoyne and Sons took over the business. It would have been around this time the picture of the store was taken for only three years later, in October 1953, the business and dwelling was again put up for sale, this time by Trebilcock Bros, in two separate lots. LOT 1. — ELTHAM HARDWARE AND TIMBER CO. Freehold and Property, Plant, Fittings and Business; Plus Stock at Valuation. To be Sold as a Going Concern. THE FREEHOLD PROPERTY Comprises Large Brick and Timber Shop. Well Fitted. Has Good Light. Comfortable 3-Room Dwelling and Detached Bungalow, H.W.S., Phone, Garage and Outbuildings. Situate on Large Allotment, 50 Ft. x 150 Ft. Aprox. THE BUSINESS: Flourishing Hardware and Builders’ Supplies, Crockery, Glassware and Gifts, Dry Cleaning Agency and Petrol Reseller Licence (1 Bowser Installed), Oil Storage. Annual Turnover Aprox. £12,000. Audited Figures Available, Old-established Business Comprehensive Stock is Good, Clean and Saleable (Value Approx. £4000). TERMS: £1000 Deposit, Balance 30 Days. VACANT POSSESSION. LOT 2. — Superb Shop Sites. Adjoining the Above Property. Land 58 Ft. x 150 Ft. (Approx.). Erected on Land Is Old Style 4-r Timber Dwelling, Set Well Back from Footpath. Leaving Ample Apace to erect Shops. Also Small Shop Let as Agent’s Office. To Be Sold Subject to Existing Tenancies, Gross Rentals £106 12/ Per Annum. Terms: £1000 Deposit, Balance 30 days. GENERAL: Eltham Is a Rapidly Developing Area only 12 Miles from G.P.O. Street Frontage of these Two Adjoining Properties Is 108 Feet By Depth of 150 Feet in the Heart of Expanding Shopping Centre, directly Opposite Station Entrance. Full Details and Inspection Available on Application from the Auctioneers: TREBILCOCK BROS. AUCTIONEERS and ESTATE AGENTS, Coincidentally, the Hardware Store was taken over by Richard Phillip Trebilcock, an electrical engineer from Mayona Road, MontmorencyNegative black and white film 120 6x6 formatSingle frameeltham, main road, 1951 chevrolet deluxe, ampol, eltham hardware and timber, j.n. burgoyne and sons, petrol bowser, william walker, richard phillip trebilcock

Pen-wipers or pen-cleaners were invented to prolong the usefulness of their pens by keeping them clean and dry between uses. This helped to prevent rusting of the nib from water-based inks. In the 1890s and 1900s, with the rise of the fountain pen, pen-cleaners remained a popular desktop accessory, since they could still be used to wipe away the excess ink from the nib and feed of a pen, once it had been refilled in an inkwell. Pen-cleaners died out in the second half of the 1900s when people started using ballpoint pens. This wiper was used by the teacher at Upper Gundowring Primary school, Victoria. The school, number 2733, opened on 13 July 1886. Due to changing demographics in the region, in 1953 the school was merged with schools from Dederang North, Kergunyah, Gundowring, Kiewa, Red Bluff, Charleroi and Gundowing North on a 10 acre site with 11 rooms at Kiewa to become Kiewa Valley Consolidated School.This item is was donated by Mrs. Betty Barberis, a well-known artist in the Wodonga district.ThIs ceramic pen wiper/ cleaner was produced to clean and maintain the nib on an ink pen. It has a blue line pattern at the base, middle and inside the rim.domestic items, writing implements, pen and ink

AMCU (Australia Multi Camouflage Uniform) Combat Dress colours - light to dark green through to mid to dark brown. Cotton/polyester fabric. Green colour plastic buttons. Nylon and metal zippers. 1. Shirt - polo style, with collar, long sleeves with adjustable velcro and strap at cuff. Two large sleeve pockets with hook and pile closure flaps, one small pocket left sleeve. Half zipper closure. Front and back of shirt - plain khaki colour knit fabric. No manufacturers label. 2. Trousers - waist band with belt loops, two front pockets, two large side pockets with zipper closure, two small pockets with hook and pile flap closure, zipper fly. White colour polyester fabric manufacturers label on right pocket lining. Green cotton fabric pocket lining. At ankle - elastic drawstring with plastic lock clip.Manufacturers information on label - black ink print. 2. "ADA/ MADE IN AUSTRALIA/ NOV 2018/ PO: CC36LD/ NSN:8415 66 161 6292/ SIZE: 34l/ 84-89 cm/^/ NAME/ PM KEYS NO:/ MAIN:/ 75% COTON/ 25% POLYESTER/ STRETCH/ 91% NYLON 9% ELASTANE/ KNEE PADS MUST BE REMOVED BEFORE/ CLEANING. HOT MACHINE/WASH. NO BLEACH/ NO FABRIC SOFTENERS/ MAY BE TUMBLE DRIED HOT/ DO NOT IRON OVER/ STRETCH PANELS OR HOOK AND PILE" .uniform, army, combat dress, amcu

AMCU (Australian Multi Camouflage Uniform) Combat Dress colours - light to dark green through to mid to dark brown. Cotton/polyester fabric. Green colour plastic button. Nylon and metal zipper. Trousers - waist band with belt loops, two front pockets, two large side pockets with zipper closure, two small lower pockets with hook and pile flap closure, zipper fly. green cotton fabric pocket lining. At ankle - elastic drawstring with plastic lock clip. White colour polyester fabric manufacturers label on right pocket lining. Light khaki colour plastic knee pads insitu. Manufacturers information on label - black ink print. "ADA/ MADE IN AUSTRALIA/ FED 2019/ PO: CC3623/ NSN: 84155 66 161 6287/ SIZE 32R ( 79-84 cm/ ^/ NAME:/ PM KEYS:/ MAIN: /75% COTTON/ 25% POLYESTER/ STRETCH:/ 91% NYLON 9% ELSATANE/ KNEE PAD MUST BE/ REMOVED BEFORE/ CLEANING HOT MACHINE/ WASH, NO BLEACH/ NO FABRIC SOFTENERS/ MAY BE TUMBLE DRIED HOT/ DO NOT IRON OVER STRETCH PANELS/ OR HOOK AND PILE".uniform, army, combat dress, amcu

This label comes from The Garden Dry Cleaners, a Warrnambool business at 121-123 Fairy Street in the 1950s and 60s, opposite what was Callaghan Motors at that time. This label is of interest as the only memento we have of a dry cleaning business that was in Warrnambool over 60 years ago.This is a small sheet of cream-coloured paper with green printing. The label has an adhesive backing.From “The Garden” Dry Cleaners M………. 121-123 Fairy Street, Warrnambool the garden dry cleaners, history of warrnambool, label

In 1951 - in the context of the Cold War - the Menzies government established the 'National Service Act 1951', which called-up men for compulsory military training for a period of 176 days. The 14th Battallion was located in Victoria. The coat has historic significance in the wider context of Australia’s involvement in the Cold War (particularly in Vietnam) and in the establishment of a National Service Scheme. Olive green army man coat with four outside pockets - two on the chest, two at the bottom; each pocket has one metallic button attached. Coat has a metallic zip as well as metallic buttons; two velcro scratches at the wrist level. Extra removable padding inside, which is attached with plastic buttons. Two identical inscriptions on right and left shoulder reading '14 National Service Battalion'. Two identical inscriptions on right and left shoulder - reading '14 National Service Battalion' Manufacturing details on the inside reading: Coat, Cold weather, Man's, Field M-65. Olive green colour. Style 8120/8542 DSA 102-81-C1204. 1. Wear as outer garment or as under-layer in cold-dry climate. 2. Wear button-in liner for added insulation. 3. Adjust closures and drawcords to ventilate; avoid over-heating of body. 4. When hood is used, lower extension shall be worn over neck opening, preventing water. 5. Brush snow or frost from garments before entering opening. 6. For fast drying, remove liner from coat. 7. Do not expose to high temperature of a stove. 8. Lubricate slide fasteners with wax. 9. For cleaning and restoring of water repellency return to laundry for machine washing in accordance with established procedures for quarpel garments. 10. Do not starch. Do not remove this label. Black ink pen inscription on manufacturing label reading '3/715875' and 'N.Wain'war, army, coat, man's coat, australian army, military uniform, national service scheme, cold war, vietnam war

This flip top pocket steel ash tray was at the beginning of the social "cleaning up" of cigarette ash and related products. This cigarette waste container was for those occasions when it was polite not to throw the cigarette ash and used up cigarettes "buts" on the ground, or if working in any rural area during a dry fire prone season, when discarding burning cigarette waste could set up a severe "bush" fire. It was also at the beginning of an intensive look at the affects of smoking upon the health of users. Later in the 1900s was a time when medical evidence supported a ground swell of the anti smoking movement which resulted in further restrictions of the use cigarette smoking in public places. Before the anti cigarette smoking revolution, it was both fashionable and manly to either roll your own cigarette or open up a packet of "tailor made's". In the rural and man's man environment the roll your own provided a visual acknowledgement that the user was "true blue" Aussie male and not a city boy. The cycle of use of cigarettes has drastically changed from when this item was first used. Today's society (post 2000) has produced a ground swell of government and non government organisations whose aim is provide a cigarette "ash" free environment and society. This is highlighted in the beginning of the 2000 millennium by a cigarette "Free" Australia campaign, and the pocket flip top personal ash tray as a practical solution for butt litter disposal.This pocket ash tray not only was used when social graces required it to, but also provided a container for any unfinished cigarettes or stogies (cheap half used cigars). In rural areas (open fresh air countryside), where time was always made available for the "smoko" (Australian rest period), at any time, especially after some hard physical work, the ability to have a self contained ashing apparatus, not to offend the gentler folk, was a pre-requisite . The rural environment, in the days of these cigarette ash containers,was one which could range from harsh and unforgiving to mild and relaxing. Smoking could be enjoyed anywhere and at any time without too much "fussing" around. This ash tray was mobile, convenient, unobtrusive and regarded by the user as being considerate to those around. It also eliminated the tell tale evidence that the "no smoking" signs had been ignored. The Kiewa Valley was like many rural ares that found it hard for smokers to come to grips with a governmental "non smoking policy" to indoor recreational and other "confined space" environments. Tin plated mild steel round container with a lid. The opening lid is spring loaded, hinged top, circular and fixed by a clasp, pop- riveted (4) onto the main housing. Opposite the hinge the lid is held closed by a small metal ball fitting tightly to the top wall of the container. The lid is opened by the use of a fingernail positioned at junction of lid to body. This edge is bevelled to allow access. personal effects, tobacco waste products, smoking accessories

This flip top pocket aluminium ash tray was at the beginning of the social "cleaning up" of cigarette ash and related products. This cigarette waste container was for those occasions when it was polite not to throw the cigarette ash and used up cigarettes "buts" on the ground, or if working in any rural area during a dry fire prone season, when discarding burning cigarette waste could set up a severe "bush" fire. It was also at the beginning of an intensive look at the affects of smoking upon the health of users. Later in the 1900s was a time when medical evidence supported a ground swell of the anti smoking movement which resulted in further restrictions of the use cigarette smoking in public places. Before the anti cigarette smoking revolution, it was both fashionable and manly to either roll your own cigarette or open up a packet of "tailor made's". In the rural and man's man environment the roll your own provided a visual acknowledgement that the user was "true blue" Aussie male and not a city boy. The cycle of use of cigarettes has drastically changed from when this item was first used. Today's society (post 2000) has produced a ground swell of government and non government organisations whose aim is provide a cigarette "ash" free environment and society. This is highlighted in the beginning of the 2000 millennium by a cigarette "Free" Australia campaign, and the pocket flip top personal ash tray as a practical solution for butt litter disposal.This light weight aluminium pocket ash tray not only was used when social graces required it to, but also provided a container for any unfinished cigarettes or stogies (cheap half used cigars). In rural areas (open fresh air countryside), where time was always made available for the "smoko" (Australian rest period), at any time, especially after some hard physical work, the ability to have a self contained ashing apparatus, not to offend the gentler folk, was a pre-requisite . The rural environment, in the days of these cigarette ash containers,was one which could range from harsh and unforgiving to mild and relaxing. Smoking could be enjoyed anywhere and at any time without too much "fussing" around. This ash tray was mobile, convenient, unobtrusive and regarded by the user as being considerate to those around. It also eliminated the tell tale evidence that the "no smoking" signs had been ignored. The Kiewa Valley was like many rural ares that found it hard for smokers to come to grips with a governmental "non smoking policy" to indoor recreational and other "confined space" environments. The covered lid reduces odors and eliminates ashes from being blown around.Aluminium round container with a lid. The opening lid is spring loaded, hinged top, circular and fixed by a clasp, pop- riveted (4) onto the main housing. Opposite the hinge the lid is held closed by a small metal ball fitting tightly to the top wall of the container. The lid is opened by the use of a fingernail positioned at junction of lid to body. This edge is bevelled to allow access.personal effects, tobacco waste products, smoking accessories, tobacco

This stencil was used to mark bags of dried bean seed, in this case Brown Beauty bean seeds, produced by farmers in the Orbost district and clean and bagged by Fisher Bros., seed bean merchants of Orbost. This stencil is significant because it was specially made for the seed bean industry which was a major industry in the Orbost district for the first half of the 20th century. A galvanised iron sheet from which words have been cut out to form a stencil. BROWN BEAUTY BEANS 1948 CROP PRODUCE OF AUSTRALIA SOUND, CLEAN, FRESH ORBOST, VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA PACKED FOR LAMBERT OVERSEAS PTY LTDseed-beans bag-stencil farming

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

This bottle labelled No Rub liquid wax proclaims the wonders of No-Rub, no-slip, and shines as it dries. The bottle still contains some of the liquid floor wax, made by J R Alexander & Sons Limited. The company was registered as a limited company from 1924 to 1975. However, the firm's advertisement and referrals from satisfied Melbourne customers, printed in The Argus, Melbourne, on Mach 19th, 1954, states that it made the first shoe polish, Supreme, in Australia as long ago as 1900. The firm made a range of household cleaning products such as floor wax, shoe polish and fabric starch. The J R Alexander & Sons Ltd. No-Rub liquid wax was advertised in various states of Australia from around 1936 until the 1950s. Later advertisements show sketches of the wax containers, which were round bottles or metal cans. The bottle in our collection is likely to be made around the 1960s.Bottle; brown glass with metal cap and yellow, orange and black label on the front. Flat rectangular-shaped bottle with a short neck and rounded shoulders The bottle has a black metal screw top lid and contents inside. There are inscriptions on the label. The bottle contains No Rub Floor Wax. Made by J R Alexander and Sons, of Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney and BrisbanePrinted on the label: "SHAKE WELL" "No-Rub" TRADE MARK REGD." "THE NON-SLIP / Liquid / FLOOR WAX / Saves Labour / Saves Time" "Shines as it dries" "NETT CONTENTS 15 FLUID OZS"flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, glass technology, bottle, glass bottle, brown glass, cleaning product, floor cleaner, floor polish, domestic cleaner, no-rub, floor wax, non-slip, flat bottle, bottle contents, liquid wax, j r alexander & sons, household cleaning, cleaning products, zippy starch, zippy window cleaner, liquid floor wax, no rub floor wax, supreme shoe polish, rectangular bottle

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware