This is a photo of one of a series of wildflower paintings by Henrietta D'Alton. This is one of twelve separate original wildflower paintings mounted within one large frame (this one us on the upper right). Beneath the frame is a plaque which reads "Henrietta D'Alton (1836-1922). This collection of wildflower water-colours won an award at the Colonial & Indian Exhibition of 1886 in London".This is a photo of a painting of a spray of flowers and leaves. There are blue flowers in the upper centre, yellow/red flowers to the right and left and white flowers near the bottom. A few pink flowers are on the lower right."2" appears on the right side of the photo. It is on the original painting.painting, floral

Used to record the absences of teachers at Yendon Public School from 1904 to 1983. Instructions for used printed inside the front cover. Gives dates and reason for absence, and countersigned periodically by the District Inspector.It is significant because it lists the school staff for a long period. It is also socially significant because it gives information about staff training, health issues, family details and weather. Small grey paper covered book used at Yendon Public School (no. 719) to record the absences of school teachers, from 1904 to 1983. The spine is bound with blue tape. The pages have torn away from the cover, which is torn and water-marked.'719' written in ink on the front cover in the space available for 'School number'. Some grafitti wirtten upside down.yendon public school, yendon state school yendon, public education, school teachers

Bushells tea and coffee producers started in Brisbane(1883) and expanded to Sydney, Melbourne(1899), Fremantle and finally to Auckland(1937). Like other Pacific Island sourced condiments Tea and coffee were a lot easier to import than British or European goods. Local Australian industries were starting to develop and grow to overcome the long transportation times and the high costs of goods from traditional suppliers. Bushells Pty Ltd is a prime example.This "Bushells" Coffee tin is a good example of Australian "grown" condiment suppliers serving the "whole" of the Australian marketplace. Rural areas were not neglected and the purchase price for goods were a reasonable levels. Kiewa Valley experienced a population growth from the late 1940's and due to the migrant works in the Kiewa Hydro Scheme the greater use of coffee was initiated. Rural areas, on the whole, where the population was more connected to some degree with a British heritage lineage were predominately tea drinkers. The American film productions, however, screened in Australia post 1950's showing a greater degree of coffee drinking "stars" had a long term effect upon the drinking habits of the rural populous. This round tin of coffee with lid is made from pressed steel lid framed top and bottom. Sturdy cylindrical body is made of cardboard. Paper information label is pasted onto the container with promotional and logo information.In large print and on opposite sides are two manufacturers labels.The topprint and on a diagonal slant in gold letters on a dark blue background is "BUSHELLS" underneath this "PURE" and below this on a red background "COFFEE". On one side in smaller print "EASY TO MAKE" and below this "Use one dessert-spoonful for each cup of coffee desired. Place in the pot and pour over it fresh water briskly boiling. Let stand for five minutes, then strain". Below this "1 IB. net" and underneath is a signature "BUSHELLS" below this in small print "Pty. Ltd." Below this, in a vertical row are"SYDNEY MELBOURNE fREMANTLE AUCKLAND"coffee and tea processors and distributors, hot drink suppliers

This bottle of liquid floor polish was manufactured before 1960(taken over by Wattyl) in a period when most of the floors in high traffic areas were covered in linoleum. Most of the floors using this product during this period would have been kitchens and laundries. During this period the cleanliness of the kitchen, hallways and eateries had to appear clean (cleanliness was a sign of a bacteria free area). This was a priority for kitchens, mess areas(SEC Hydro Scheme facilities) and connecting walkways. The cleanliness attitude was enhanced in the rural areas due to the "dirty" farm work not impinging upon the residential home.When Mount Beauty was first inhabited all the residential and worker's facilities were a prime area for linoleum floor surfaces. The liquid floor polish was in great demand, "a polished floor is a clean floor".This bottle of liquid floor polish is very significant to the Kiewa Valley, not only that it covers the floors of every home and residential barracks of the first major development of a "town" now known as Mount Beauty but also it demonstrates that the "cleanliness" approach of early Australians living areas in the rural regions was "on par" with its city cousins. It is the smaller types of mores that underlie the "mushrooming" cultural and psyche "wholeness" of an ever expanding Australian culture.This brown opaque glass bottle with an oblong shape has a blue coloured "screw on" cap. It has a "wrap around" label glued firmly on the bottle and covers the front and sides.On the front main label under a red line, "SPARTAN" underneath in smaller print "For use on" below this, "LINOLEUM, RUBBER, COMPOSITION AND HARDWOOD FLOORS" besides this is an encircled Trade Mark of a "Spartan Warrior holding a spear and shield" these word follow the curviture of the circle and are below it "TRADE MARK REGISTERED" Below this are "SUPER FLOOR GLOSS" to the left in very small print "Nett Contents 16 Fluid Ounces". Below this on a blue background and in white print"LIQUID FLOOR WAX WATER REPELLENT". On the bottom of the label "Made under licence by HARDIE TRADING LIMITED for SPARTAN PAINTS PTY, LIMITED" below this in small print "Melbourne, Sydney, Adelaide, Brisbane, Perth, Hobart, Launceston, Geelong. Embossed on the bootm of the glass is" G/Mfloor cleaners, liquid polish, "hygienic" clean floors.

This brand of starch was first manufactured in 1914, during the First World War, and continued to cover the other wars and military conflicts that followed. It was a time when Australian made was important due to the limited supplies coming from England and Europe. This was a period when the demand for "home grown" produce was at its peak. This was in a time when by necessity not by the "Buy Australian" campaign (of later years) which was the major factor for the demand of goods. It was in a time when starch was used in formal clothing to put a "crisp" or fresh new appearance for clothes. The important social more of "clothes make the person" was in vogue.This box which once contained starch powder is very significant to a rural semi isolated region because it clearly demonstrates that the social mores of the city were also entrenched into the rural population. The fashion of the day, even in remote areas, especially rural, were still a requirement to be maintained on certain special occasions. Cleanliness and stiff "upper lip" persona were just as important in the rural sector as in city and Government circles. Institutions such as hospitals, Government Offices and the legal personnel were bound by the fashion of the starch appearance (no dirt sticks to a personage with the "starch" look). Appearances, especially the first ones, were the judgmental image that remained in the uppermost regions of the viewer. This box with white writing and a "formally clad" man on a navy blue background held Australian grown maize based starch powder(1 LB gross). The package is made from 200 gsm thick cardboard. As production was made during the two World Wars 1914 to 1945 the promotion was heavily focused on Australian made and Australian grown maize.The same cover both front and back, "DANDY" below this a figure outlined in white on a navy blue background "hat and tails" outfit. Next to the sketch in smaller lettering" STRONGER THAN OTHER STARCHES. LESS REQUIRED". Below the figure "GLOSS" and below this in larger print "STARCH". Below this and in smaller print "CONTENTS. NETT WEIGHT 14 1/2 ozs" Below this and in smaller print "MANUFACTURED BY MAIZE PRODUCTS PTY LTD FOOTSCRAY VICTORIA" On one side of the box and in large white print on royal blue background"PURITY, STRENGTH AND UNIFORMITY." On the other side are the manufacturers directions. On the left side "FOR RAW STARCH" Underneath and in smaller print,"Dissolve in warm water a quantity to give the required thickness. Add bluing if required Stir before each using. On the right side "FOR BOILING STARCH" underneath this in small print"Mix well in small quantity of cold water to creamy consistency. Add boiling water, and stir constantly while cooking. Allow to cool, and add blueing if required. Underneath these two sets of instructions is "Make your consistency thinner than if using another kind of Starch"household starch, household cleaning, domestic laundering.

Ron White owned these jugs during his lifetime. Popular circa 1940s.Ron White owned these jugs. See KVHS 12821. Water Jug - tall glass jug with thin pale green 'plastic?' 'coating' wrapped around it. The cover has painted in colour -flowers and leaves. The lip is wavy with a clear plastic cover pulled over it. The handle is attached to the top half in the shape of an ear.The base is wider than the the top.Handblown. 2. Milk Jug - Unusual shaped small rectangular cream coloured jug with a handle at one end and a pouring lip at the opposite end. It sits on a four legged base and is decorated with coloured flowers and a cottage on each side. 3. Shaving Jug - Solid ceramic cream coloured jug with 7 holes in main area with a handle on one side and a pouring lip on the other. The jug is decorated with 3 small pictures of the countryside. The lip of the jug is defined in blue.1. Nil 2. At the base: "Hampton/ Ivory/ Swinnertons / England" 3. At the base: "Empire / Ivory ware/ England" and embossed also at the base "261 / England / 12?"ron white, ceramic and glass jugs, kitchenware, bathroomware

Pennants are used to advertise events or places. This pennant includes all the main areas of construction done by the State Electricity Commission of Victoria during their construction of the Kiewa Hydro Electric Scheme. The pennant advertises the highlights in the construction of the Kiewa Hydro Electric Scheme.A small triangular navy blue with gold printing fabric with a strip of woollen bias binding on the left side with a tab at the top and bottom for attaching to a rod to enable the pennant to hang. The background of the printing is of mountains with water flowing out of a dam and in the front on the left power poles and power lines.In gold - large letters"Kiewa Scheme" decreasing in size. On the top also in gold "Mt Beauty" "Clover Dam" and "Bogong Village" and underneath "Falls Creek" Rocky Valley"kiewa scheme, pennant

This item was a standard maths book used in Victoria. It would have been a continuation of the Part 1 of the same name. Elementary level would have been in the early years of secondary school. This has historic significance as it shows what Elemenetary Algebera was taught in the early - mid 20th century. This book would have been used in the Kiewa Valley schools by a local identity Wilma Davies therefore has social significance and research value. This book is now out of print and is a collectible item.A blue maths book with faded blue coth cover. It has gold lettering on the side of the book stating the name, author and publisher with their logo. It would have had its name on the cover at one stage but it no longer on it due to water damage.Cover has a triangle with Cambridge Mathematical Series enmbossed around the three sides. At the points of the triangle is the letters B D C with the letter A in the middle of the trianglebook, school, algebra, educational, math, kiewa-valley

This promotional photograph by the Tobacco Growers Association was in response to a 1935 meeting of tobacco growers from Victoria, South Australia and Queensland which produced four major resolutions for the industry covering the remainder of the 1900s. These four resolutions were: (1) Adequate tariff protection (2) Control of pests and diseases (3) Orderly marketing (4) The formation of an advisory council of growers. History has produced the following results. (1) adequate tariff protection was never achieved,(2) control of disease through benzol vapour (CSIRO) breakthrough, was later identified as carcinogenic, (3) orderly marketing was achieved through (4) the establishment of the Tobacco Growers Association(1984). In October 2006, by way of Government buy back of tobacco leases from growers, resulted in the end of Tobacco farming in Australia (after 136 years of planting the first crop). It was also significant that the major tobacco companies such as Philip Morris and The British American Tobacco Australasia advised the industry that it would source its tobacco requirements overseas by 2009.The remnants of the Tobacco Industry can still be viewed throughout the Kiewa Valley and adjacent regions on the former tobacco farms which still have the tobacco drying sheds and now converted into hay sheds. The problems from the large quantities of carcinogenic infused soil of farmlands in the region, still remains a problem now and for future generations. This particular photograph shows the lack of understanding by farmers and the contracted labour, at that time, and is demonstrated by the bare footed farmer walking next to the seed canister. Some workers did use protective "gum" boots but the majority of farm owners were skeptical of city scientists and their carcinogenic concerns, and it was only after the younger generation of farmers , who had attended Agricultural colleges, encompassed the scientific approach to farm management and began working closely with agricultural scientists. The "she'll be right mate" attitude of the earlier farming/rural community has since mid 1970s, been slowly dissipating. Stricter controls of herbicides and pesticides used in agriculture are now in force. The death of the tobacco industry(2006) resulted in the expansion of the dairy , sheep, beef cattle, venison and lama wool producers in the Kiewa Valley and surrounding regions.Coloured photograph pasted onto a thick wood chip backing. Two galvanised eyelets at the top of the frame, 50mm from each end, with a twine cord stretch from each, for hanging purposes. See also KVHS 0054(B) to KVHS 0054(F)A sign, which has been removed from the picture at some previous point in time is "The Tobacco seed, being so fine, is suspended in water and sown onto the seed base using a watering can [as in the photo] or similar device - August - Sept."tobacco, farming, rural industry, licences, ollie mould, blue mould, benzol vapour

In December 1939 the excavation of the diversion tunnel at the site of Junction (Lake Guy) Dam was commenced and finished in February, 1940.This allowed the stream to be diverted to facilitate the dam wall construction. This is a 'slab and buttress' dam. It is framed with timber and concrete then poured into the structure. A contract was let to Lewis Construction Co. for the construction of the dam, and the first batch of concrete was placed in September, 1940. Industrial trouble caused some delays but there was also slow progress on the part of the contractor and the work was taken over by the S.E.C., terminating the contract. The dam was completed in March, 1944. The lake is named after Mr. L.T. Guy who was the Resident Engineer, in charge of construction work and associated activities on the Kiewa area, from 1939 until November 1946. An historical pictorial record taken for the State Electricity Commission of Junction Dam (Lake Guy) on spill. Mt. Arthur is in the background and there is still evidence of the destruction of trees from the 1939 bushfires. Black and white photograph of Lake Guy Dam . The dam is spilling and Mt. Arthur is in the background. Hand written on back of photograph in blue ink " Lake Guy Dam".dam, lake, water, mr. l.t.guy

Howman's Gap camp was erected in 1948. The proposed dam to be built at this site was postponed in 1954 because of financial restraints imposed by the government at this time. It was to have supplied water for No. 2 Power Station at the Junction of the Pretty Valley and Rocky Valley branches of the East Kiewa River. This power station was not constructed until 2008 - 2010 and now gets it water from McKay Creek Power Station. The site of this camp is now occupied by the Howman's Gap Alpine Centre. Some of the original buildings still remain. An excellent photographic record of the type of buildings and size of the camp for accommodation of workmen during construction of the Kiewa Hydro Electric Scheme.Black and white photograph of the buildings erected at Howmans Dam site as accommodation for workmen.Handwritten in blue ink on the back of photograph "Howmans Dam Camp"howman's gap, camp, water, dam

Erection of staff quarters at Pretty Valley was completed in April, 1947 and accommodation for construction workers commenced in 1948 but suspended on 11th May for winter and resumed on 9th November. Construction of this camp was completed in 1949. A large dam was proposed at this site but was never constructed. Instead a small diversion dam was built which diverts water either to Rocky Valley Dam or to McKay Creek Power Station.An historical record of the type of accommodation provided for workmen during the construction of the Kiewa Hydro Scheme during the 1940's/50's.A black and white photograph of Pretty Valley Camp, c 1949. Dead trees are in the foreground, on both the left and right side of the photograph and a small snow gum is evident. There are camp huts and a much larger building behind these, possibly a workshop, and power poles are evident bringing electricity to the site.Handwritten in blue ink on back of photograph "Pretty Valley Camp. 5600 ft. above sea level".pretty valley, dam, water, workmen, camp

This is a map of the Hopkins River Estuary prepared by Dr John Sherwood for the benefit of anglers. The information on the sheet includes the location of sand banks, the water depths, boat ramp facilities and public access facilities. Some of the information has been gathered from aerial photographs. The map has been produced by the Warrnambool Institute of Advanced Education which was developed in the late 1960s from the tertiary section of the Warrnambool Technical College and with all its departments established by 1984 at the Sherwood Campus five kilometres from Warrnambool on the Princes Highway. Today the site is occupied by Deakin University, Warrnambool campus. The Warrnambool Anglers’ Club has its headquarters on the banks of the Hopkins River near the mouth of the river and the Lyndoch Aged Care facility.This map is of interest as a specialist one, providing fishermen with detailed information on all aspects of the Hopkins river estuary. Fishing has been both a profession and a popular recreational pursuit for Warrnambool residents since the early days of the city’s settlement. The Hopkins River Estuary has been a focal point for fishermen throughout Warrnambool’s history. This is a sheet of paper folded three times to produce a folded map. The front cover has a black and white photograph of two fishermen with a large fish. The map of the Hopkins River Estuary is in yellow, blue and black and covers the side of one sheet and three quarters of the other side. There is an advertisement for the Hopkins River Boathouse with a black and white sketch of the boathouse and notes on the map written by Dr John Sherwood. There are several diagrams showing the water depths. The map has some silverfish damage and some tearing at the folds. warrnambool anglers’ club, history of warrnambool, hopkins river, hopkins river estuary, john sherwood

This hat is part of a General Purpose Uniform issued by the Australian Airforce to Bernard Farley during service. This uniform type was developed in 2014 and replaced camouflage as the uniform worn during general base duties and in non-warlike environments. Although a camouflage pattern, this design is not intended for use as camouflage. This item has social significance, as an item of uniform worn by Warrnambool RSL community member and Secretary (2019), Bernard Farley during service with the Australian Airforce. The item is a representative example of current Airforce General Purpose Uniform and is in excellent condition. As a set, the uniform has aesthetic significance in it’s design, incorporating GPU uniform design from the Army alongside the colours and motifs of the Australian Airforce. General Purpose Uniform (GPU) hat in Airforce colours of blue and grey in camouflage pattern. Broad brim hat with black plastic cord end fastener on a blue cotton cord. Plastic tag on interior of hat lining with printed inscriptions.Inscription on tag: “Hard Yakka/AUSTRALIA/AUGUST 2015/PO No: CC2XZ8/LAY No: 10609/SQNCOR FARLEY/(broad arrow)/[Mobile Phone Number]/NSN: 8415-66-161-4051/SIZE: M 56cm/NAME:” Inscription on reverse of tag: “PM KEYS No:/75% COTTON/25% POLYESTER/CARE INSTRUCTIONS/HAND WASH IN COLD/WATER WITH MILD/DETERGENT RISE/WELL DO NOT WRING/TUMBLE DRY OR/DRYCLEAN (X)/DRIP DRY IN SHADE”camouflage, airforce, uniform, general purpose uniform, australian defence force

Henry Watts (1828_1889) Died at Melbourne, 16th December, 1889. He was a good microscopist. His botanical studies were chiefly devoted to algae, both fresh-water and marine, and while living for many years at Warrnambool he was a contributor of algae to Harvey, who figured Wrangelia wattsii, Harv., and Crouania wattsii, Harv., in his “Phycologia Australica " He was the author of "On the Fresh-water Algae of Victoria " (Trans. Roy. Soc. Vict., 1861-4, 67) ; .also a paper "On Fossil Polyzoa" (ib.. 82); "A Trip to Mt. Macedon in Search of Fresh-water Algae" (Wing's S. S. Record, iii., 252); "On a Species of fresh-water Algae from Victoria" (Vict. Nat., i., 21); "Some Recent Additions to our Knowledge of Microscopic Natural History" (ib., iii., I33) (includes lists of fresh-water algae and Desmidieae ), First librarian (1881-2), also a vice-president of the Field Naturalists' Club of Victoria. He is further commemorated by Acacia wattsiana. F. v. M. www.anbg.gov.au/biography/watts-henry.html . Henry Watts worked as a bootmaker in Timor and Liebig streets Warrnambool in the 1860’s but it was as an amateur scientist that Watts gained public notice.For an exhibiton in Melbourne in 1861 Henry Watts prepared a collection of over 100 different species of seaweed from the Warrnambool district. It is recorded in the Examiner in 1863 that he had been elected as an honorary member of the Bristol Microscopical Society of England He was a member of the Warrnambool Horticultural society and in 1865 he opted to become a flower distiller.At the 1866 MelbourneExhibition, Henry Watts exhibited 44 bottles of his perfumes. He had a keen interest in microscopes and microscopic organisms.He spent many hours combing the caves and examining the guano of local bats. This letter is written to Professor Quekett advising him that he has sent a collection of packets of samples of diatomaceae asking him to examine and name the same.. Professor Quekett was a famous microscopist of the Victorian era with the Quekett microscopist club one of the oldest in the world dedicated to the use of the microscope and its discoveries. Henry Watts was one of Warrnambool’s first botanists and marine scientists. He also established a flower distilling and perfume manufacturing business in Warrnambool. In 1861 he sent a collection of over 100 species of seaweed to the Melbourne Exhibition.Framed, handwritten letter, ink on blue paper. Transcript of letter is typed black on white paper. Five small numbered pieces of paper containing specimens of diatomaceae collected from marine and fresh water areas around Warrnambool.Names Henry Watts, Professor Quekett. Handwritten along the bottom of the frame, “The above was bought at a London Auction for $12-10-00 by Miss Eddey a Melbourne Book shop Proprietress and recently presented to the W.F.N. Club.: warrnambool, henry watts, watts henry, botanist,microscope, microscopic, quekett, john thomas quekett

The first swimming competition was conducted by the Swimming Club at the Orbost Swimming Pool not long after its construction. The results were hand-written on a cardboard sheet pinned up on a notice board. One of the events held was a crazy diving display performed by Neil Rodwell and Malcolm Corner in which they rode bikes off the diving platform.The opening of the Orbost Swimming Pool was a significant event in Orbost's development. The construction of the pool was community driven and the swimming club played a crucial role in helping young people learn about water safety away from rivers.A manila folder of documents related to the Orbost Amateur Swimming and Life Saving Club. It contains the constitution, rules of competition, competition results and a cloth badge- a white silver gull inside a pale blue circle on a darker blue background with ORBOST S & LSC below. Documents are handwritten and typed.orbost-swimming-club sport-swimming leisure-club

Without refrigeration, storage of meat was difficult. Flies were a problem, and it was important to keep meat cool and out of the way of pests. One way of doing this was to use a meat safe: a kind of cupboard designed to store meat and keep it fresh enough to eat. Meat safes are ventilated. They were sometimes made with sides of wire mesh or perforated metal, so that air could circulate around the meat while keeping flies and other animals out.The Coolgardie safe was invented in the late 1890s by Arthur Patrick McCormick, who used the same principle as explorers and travelers in the Outback used to cool their canvas water bags Originally they were handmade using materials to hand. In the early 20th century, Coolgardie Safes were manufactured commercially across Australia, and found their way into homes in both rural and urban areas. These safes incorporated shelving and a door, had metal or wooden frames and Hessian bodies. The feet of the safe were usually placed in a tray of water to keep ants away. (refs ABC-Home; Museum Victoria)The Coolgardie safe was an Australian invention used especially in country areas from the 1890s until the mid 20th century. It began to be replaced by ice chests from the turn of the twentieth century in cities and country towns which had ice works. This item is an example of a domestic appliance commonly used before electricity was widely available for domestic use.A cube-shaped metal Coolgardie safe painted blue. It has a triangular hook on the top for hanging or lifting. There are small feet at bottom . The sides are perforated in a Above the door; Inside a rhomboid shape "WILLOW"food-storage coolgardie-safe domestic

this item is a useful reference tool.A survey map produced by the State Rivers and Water Supply Commission. It is on white paper with blue ink. It is a hand-drawn survey of the Snowy River in 1939-40.survey map snowy-river

Donated with the ABC Spinner washing machineBlue heavy paper cover with black lettering and an illustration of Model 60. Full title is 'How to operate the ABC Spinner -Spins Away Water -Spins Away Dirt. The Porcelain Washer -Manufactured by Altofer Bros Company Established 1909 Peoria Illinois Contents include parts price list and instructions for use'allansford, altofer brothers, abc spinner, washing machines, laundry aids

This medal for bravery, for rescue of the crew from the shipwreck “Eric the Red” on 4th September 1880, was awarded to one of the crew of the steamer S.S. Dawn by the President of the United States in July 1881. The medal is engraved with the name “Nelson Johnson” (the anglicised version of his Swedish name Neils Frederick Yohnson). It was donated to Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village in 2013 by Nelson’s granddaughter. Nelson had migrated from Sweden to Sydney in 1879. The next year in 1880, aged 24, he was a seaman on the steamship Dawn and involved in the rescue of the survivors of the Eric the Red. Nelson Johnson was a crew member of the S.S. Dawn and was one of the rescue team in the dinghy in the early morning of September 4th 1880. Medals were awarded to the Captain and crew of the S.S. Dawn by the President of the United States, through the Consul-general (Mr Oliver M. Spencer), in July 1881 “ … in recognition of their humane efforts in rescuing the 23 survivors of the American built wooden sailing ship, the Eric the Red, on 4th September 1880.” The men were also presented with substantial monetary rewards and gifts. The city of Warrnambool’s care of the survivors was also mentioned by the President at the presentation, saying that “the city hosted and supported the crew ‘most graciously’. Previously, a week after the shipwreck, the Australian Government had also conveyed its thanks to the Captain and crew of the S.S. Dawn “Captain Griffith Jones, S.S. Dawn, The Hon. Mr Clark desires that the thanks of the Government should be conveyed to you for the prompt, persevering and seamanlike qualities displayed by you, your officers and crew in saving the number of lives you did on the occasion referred to. The hon. The Commissioner has also been pleased to award you a souvenir in commemoration of the occasion, and a sum of 65 pounds to be awarded to your officers and crew according to annexed scale. I am, &c, W Collins Rees, for and in the absence of the Chief Harbour Master.” The Awards are as follows: - Crew of DAWN'S lifeboat-Chief Officer, Mr G. Peat, 15 pounds; boat's crew-G. Sterge, A.B., 5 pounds; T. Hammond, A.B., 5 pounds; J. Black, A.B., 5 pounds; H. Edwards, A.B., 5 pounds. Dinghy's Crew-Second Officer, Mr Christie, 10 pounds; boat's crew -F. Lafer, A.B., 5 pounds; W. Johnstone, A.B., 5 pounds; Mr Lear, provedore, 5 pounds; Mr Dove, purser, 5 pounds. Captain Jones receives a piece of plate. (from “Wreck of the ship Eric the Red” by Jack Loney) The medal’s history, according to the Editor of ‘E-Sylum’ (the newsletter of The Numismatic Bibliomania Society “… appears to be an example of an 1880 State Department medal, catalogued as LS-3 (page 322 of R. W. Julian's book, Medals of the United States Mint: The First Century 1792-1892). The reverse is mostly blank for engraving, surrounded by a thin wreath. It was designed by George Morgan, chief engraver for the Philadelphia Mint, and struck in gold, silver and bronze. The one pictured here (in The Standard newspaper, 2nd July 2013) appears to be silver.” The following is an account of the events which led to the awarding of this medal. The American ship Eric the Red was a wooden, three-masted clipper ship. She had 1,580 tons register and was the largest full-rigged ship built at Bath, Maine, USA in 1871. She was built and registered by Arthur Sewall, later to become the partnership E. & A. Sewall, the 51st ship built by this company. The annually-published List of Merchant Vessels of the U.S. shows Bath was still the home port of Eric the Red in 1880. The vessel was named after the Viking discoverer, Eric ‘the Red-haired’ Thorvaldsson, who was the first European to reach the shores of North America (in 980AD). The ship Eric the Red at first traded in coal between America and Britain, and later traded in guano nitrates from South America. In 1879 she was re-metalled and was in first-class condition. On 10th June 1880 (some records say 12th June) Eric the Red departed New York for Melbourne and then Sydney. She had been commissioned by American trade representatives to carry a special cargo of 500 exhibits (1400 tons) – about a quarter to a third of America’s total exhibits - for the U.S.A. pavilion at Melbourne’s first International Exhibition. The exhibits included furniture, ironmongery, wines, chemicals, dental and surgical instruments, paper, cages, bronze lamp trimmings, axles, stamped ware, astronomical and time globes, samples of corn and the choicest of leaf tobacco. Other general cargo included merchandise such as cases of kerosene and turpentine, brooms, Bristol's Sarsaparilla, Wheeler and Wilson sewing machines, Wheeler’s thresher machine, axe handles and tools, cases of silver plate, toys, pianos and organs, carriages and Yankee notions. The Eric the Red left New York under the command of Captain Zaccheus Allen (or some records say Captain Jacques Allen) and 24 other crew including the owner’s son third mate Ned Sewall. There were also 2 saloon passengers on board. The ship had been sailing for an uneventful 85 days and the voyage was almost at its end. As Eric the Red approached Cape Otway there was a moderate north-west wind and a hazy and overcast atmosphere. On 4th September 1880 at about 1:30 am Captain Allen sighted the Cape Otway light and was keeping the ship 5-6 miles offshore to stay clear of the hazardous Otway Reef. However, he had badly misjudged his position. The ship hit the Otway Reef about 2 miles out to sea, southwest of the Cape Otway light station. Captain Allen ordered the wheel to be put ‘hard up’ thinking that she might float off the reef. The sea knocked the helmsman away from the wheel, broke the wheel ropes and carried away the rudder. The lifeboats were swamped, the mizzenmast fell, with all of its riggings, then the mainmast also fell and the ship broke in two. Some said that the passenger Vaughan, who was travelling for his health and not very strong, was washed overboard and never seen again. The ship started breaking up. The forward house came adrift with three of the crew on it as well as a longboat, which the men succeeded in launching and keeping afloat by continually bailing with their sea boots. The captain, the third mate (the owner’s son) and others clung to the mizzenmast in the sea. Then the owner’s son was washed away off the mast. Within 10 minutes the rest of the ship was in pieces, completely wrecked, with cargo and wreckage floating in the sea. The captain encouraged the second mate to swim with him to the deckhouse where there were other crew but the second mate wouldn’t go with him. Eventually, the Captain made it to the deckhouse and the men pulled him up. At about 4:30 am the group of men on the deckhouse saw the lights of a steamer and called for help. At the same time, they noticed the second mate and the other man had drifted nearby, still on the spur, and pulled them both onto the wreck. The coastal steamer SS Dawn was returning to Warrnambool from Melbourne, and its sailing time was different to its usual schedule. She was built in 1876 and bought by the Portland and Belfast Steam Navigation Co. in 1877. At the time of this journey, she was commanded by Captain Jones and was sailing between Melbourne and Portland via Warrnambool. The provedore the Dawn, Benjamin Lear, heard cries of distress coming through the portholes of the saloon. He gave the alarm and the engines were stopped. Cries could be heard clearly, coming from the land. Captain Jones sent out crew in two boats and fired off rockets and blue lights to illuminate the area. They picked up the three survivors who were in the long boat from Eric the Red. Two men were picked up out of the water, one being the owner’s son who was clinging to floating kerosene boxes. At daylight, the Dawn then rescued the 18 men from the floating portion of the deckhouse, which had drifted about 4 miles from where they’d struck the reef. Shortly after the rescue the deckhouse drifted onto breakers and was thrown onto rocks at Point Franklin, about 2 miles east of Cape Otway. Captain Jones had signalled to Cape Otway lighthouse the number of the Eric the Red and later signalled that there was a wreck at Otway Reef but there was no response from the lighthouse. The captain and crew of the Dawn spent several more hours searching unsuccessfully for more survivors, even going back as far as Apollo Bay. On board the Dawn the exhausted men received care and attention to their needs and wants, including much-needed clothing. Captain Allen was amongst the 23 battered and injured men who were rescued and later taken to Warrnambool for care. Warrnambool’s mayor and town clerk offered them all hospitality, the three badly injured men going to the hospital for care and others to the Olive Branch Hotel, then on to Melbourne. Captain Allen’s leg injury prevented him from going ashore so he and three other men travelled on the Dawn to Portland. They were met by the mayor who also treated them all with great kindness. Captain Allen took the train back to Melbourne then returned to America. Those saved were Captain Zaccheus Allen (or Jacques Allen), J. Darcy chief mate, James F. Lawrence second mate, Ned Sewall third mate and owner’s son, John French the cook, C. Nelson sail maker, Clarence W. New passenger, and able seamen Dickenson, J. Black, Denis White, C. Herbert, C. Thompson, A. Brooks, D. Wilson, J. Ellis, Q. Thompson, C. Newman, W. Paul, J. Davis, M. Horenleng, J. Ogduff, T. W. Drew, R. Richardson. Four men had lost their lives; three of them were crew (Gus Dahlgreen ship’s carpenter, H. Ackman steward, who drowned in his cabin, and George Silver seaman) and one a passenger (J. B. Vaughan). The body of one of them had been found washed up at Cape Otway and was later buried in the lighthouse cemetery; another body was seen on an inaccessible ledge. Twelve months later the second mate James F. Lawrence, from Nova Scotia passed away in the Warrnambool district; an obituary was displayed in the local paper. Neither the ship nor its cargo was insured. The ship was worth about £15,000 and the cargo was reportedly worth £40,000; only about £2,000 worth had been recovered. Cargo and wreckage washed up at Apollo Bay, Peterborough, Port Campbell, Western Port and according to some reports, even as far away as the beaches of New Zealand. The day after the wreck the government steamship Pharos was sent from Queenscliff to clear the shipping lanes of debris that could be a danger to ships. The large midship deckhouse of the ship was found floating in a calm sea near Henty Reef. Items such as an American chair, a ladder and a nest of boxes were all on top of the deckhouse. As it was so large and could cause danger to passing ships, Captain Payne had the deckhouse towed towards the shore just beyond Apollo Bay. Between Apollo Bay and Blanket Bay, the captain and crew of Pharos collected Wheeler and Wilson sewing machines, nests of boxes, bottles of Bristol’s sarsaparilla, pieces of common American chairs, axe handles, a Wheelers’ Patent thresher and a sailor’s trunk with the words “A. James” on the front. A ship’s flag-board bearing the words “Eric the Red” was found on the deckhouse; finally, those on board the Pharos had the name of the wrecked vessel. During this operation, Pharos came across the government steamer Victoria and also a steamer S.S. Otway, both of which were picking up flotsam and wreckage. A whole side of the hull and three large pieces of the other side of the hull, with some of the copper sheathing stripped off, had floated onto Point Franklin. Some of the vessels' yards and portions of her masts were on shore. The pieces of canvas attached to the yards and masts confirmed that the vessel had been under sail. The beach there was piled with debris several feet high. There were many cases of Diamond Oil kerosene, labelled R. W. Cameron and Company, New York. There were also many large planks of red pine, portions of a small white boat and a large, well-used oar. Other items found ashore included sewing machines (some consigned to ‘Long and Co.”) and notions, axe and scythe handles, hay forks, wooden pegs, rolls of wire (some branded “T.S” and Co, Melbourne”), kegs of nails branded “A.T. and Co.” from the factory of A. Field and Son, Taunton, Massachusetts, croquet balls and mallets, buggy fittings, rat traps, perfumery, cutlery and Douay Bibles, clocks, bicycles, chairs, a fly wheel, a cooking stove, timber, boxes, pianos, organs and a ladder. (Wooden clothes pegs drifted in for many years). There seemed to be no personal luggage or clothing. The Pharos encountered a long line, about one and a half miles, of f locating wreckage about 10 miles off land, southeast of Cape Otway, and in some places about 40 feet wide. It seemed that more than half of it was from Eric the Red. The ship’s crew rescued 3 cases that were for the Melbourne Exhibition and other items from amongst the debris. There were also chairs, doors, musical instruments, washing boards, nests of trunks and flycatchers floating in the sea. Most of the goods were saturated and smelt of kerosene. A section of the hull lies buried in the sand at Parker River Beach. An anchor with a chain is embedded in the rocks east of Point Franklin and a second anchor, thought to be from Eric the Red, is on display at the Cape Otway light station. (There is a photograph of a life belt on the verandah of Rivernook Guest House in Princetown with the words “ERIC THE RED / BOSTON”. This is rather a mystery as the ship was registered in Bath, Maine, USA.) Parts of the ship are on display at Bimbi Park Caravan Park and at Apollo Bay Museum. Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village also has part of the helm (steering wheel), a carved wooden sword (said to be the only remaining portion of the ship’s figurehead; further research is currently being carried out), a door, a metal rod, samples of wood and this medal awarded for the rescue of the crew. Much of the wreckage was recovered by the local residents before police and other authorities arrived at the scene. Looters went to great effort to salvage goods, being lowered down the high cliff faces to areas with little or no beach to collect items from the wreckage, their mates above watching out for dangerous waves. A Tasmanian newspaper reports on a court case in Stawell, Victoria, noting a man who was caught 2 months later selling tobacco from the wreckage of Eric the Red. Some of the silverware is still treasured by descendants of Mr Mackenzie who was given these items by officials for his help in securing the cargo. The gifts included silver coffee and teapots, half a dozen silver serviette rings and two sewing machines. A Mr G.W. Black has in his possession a medal and a purse that was awarded to his father, another Dawn crew member who was part of the rescue team. The medal is similarly inscribed and named “To John Black ….” (from “Shipwrecks” by Margaret E. Mackenzie, 3rd edition, published 1964). The wreck and cargo were sold to a Melbourne man who salvaged a quantity of high-quality tobacco and dental and surgical instruments. Timbers from the ship were salvaged and used in the construction of houses and shed around Apollo Bay, including a guest house, Milford House (since burnt down in bushfires), which had furniture, fittings and timber on the dining room floor from the ship. A 39.7-foot-long trading ketch, the Apollo, was also built from its timbers by Mr Burgess in 1883 and subsequently used in Tasmanian waters. It was the first attempt at shipbuilding in Apollo Bay. In 1881 a red light was installed about 300 feet above sea level at the base of the Cape Otway lighthouse to warn ships when they were too close to shore; It would not be visible unless a ship came within 3 miles from it. This has proved to be an effective warning. Nelson Johnson married Elizabeth Howard in 1881 and they had 10 children, the father of the medal’s donor being the youngest. They lived in 13 Tichbourne Place, South Melbourne, Victoria. Nelson died in 1922 in Fitzroy Victoria, age 66. In 1895 the owners of the S.S. Dawn, the Portland and Belfast Steam Navigation Co., wound up and sold out to the Belfast Company who took over the Dawn for one year before selling her to Howard Smith. She was condemned and sunk in Suva in 1928. The State Library of Victoria has a lithograph in its collection depicting the steamer Dawn and the shipwrecked men, titled. "Wreck of the ship Eric the Red, Cape Otway: rescue of the crew by the Dawn". The medal for bravery is associated with the ship the “The Eric the Red which is historically significant as one of Victoria's major 19th century shipwrecks. (Heritage Victoria Eric the Red; HV ID 239) The wreck led to the provision of an additional warning light placed below the Cape Otway lighthouse to alert mariners to the location of Otway Reef. The site is archaeologically significant for its remains of a large and varied cargo and ship's fittings being scattered over a wide area. The site is recreationally and aesthetically significant as it is one of the few sites along this coast where tourists can visit identifiable remains of a large wooden shipwreck, and for its location set against the background of Cape Otway, Bass Strait, and the Cape Otway lighthouse.“ (Victorian Heritage Database Registration Number S239, Official Number 8745 USA) This medal was awarded to Nelson Johnson by the U.S. President for bravery in the rescue of the Eric the Red crew. The obverse of the round, solid silver medal has an inscription around the rim. In the centre of the medal is the head of Liberty to the left, hair in a bun, with a sprig of leaves in the top left of a band around her head. There is a 6-pointed star below the portrait, between the start and end of the inscription. There are two raised areas on the rim, horizontally opposite each other, from the edge to just below the lettering and coinciding with the holes drilled in the edge. Slightly right of the top is a round indentation in the rim. The reverse has a wreath of leaves as a border, joined at the bottom by a ribbon bow. In the centre of the medal is an inscription, decorated with 3-pronged design and dots. The edge is plain with 2 small, rough and uneven holes horizontally opposite to each other, as though they had been used for mounting the medal at some stage. The medal has a matte finish on both sides and is slightly pitted and scratched.“PRESENTED BY THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES” around the perimeter of the obverse of the medal. “TO / Nelson Johnson, / seaman of the British, / str “Dawn”, for bravery, / at risk of life, / in / rescuing the crew of / the American Ship / “Eric the Red.” “M” on obverse, truncation of the portraitwarrnambool, flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime village, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, great ocean road, shipwreck artefact, eric the red, zaccheus allen, sewall, 1880, melbourne exhibition, cape otway, otway reef, victorian shipwreck, medal, nelson johnson, neils frederick yohnson, s.s. dawn, george morgan, hero

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The colander is an extremely useful tool in the kitchen, as it allows food to be fully drained of liquids such as water or oil. Enamelware dates back to 1760 in Germany.This object is significant as an example of a type of item in common use in the 19th Century and that is still in use today.Mottled blue enamel colander with draining holes in the base and sides. Two thin handles on lip of bowl.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, enamel, colander, food preparation

The horizontal water canteen has been carefully designed to fit snugly on the hip when worn with the straps diagonally across the body. The ladle allows quick and easy scooping of the contents to refresh the lifeboat and rocket launching crew, and the survivors of the disaster Saving lives in Warrnambool – The coastline of South West Victoria is the site of over 600 shipwrecks and many lost lives; even in Warrnambool’s Lady Bay there were around 16 known shipwrecks between 1850 and 1905, with eight lives lost. Victoria’s Government responded to the need for lifesaving equipment and, in 1858, the provision of rocket and mortar apparatus was approved for the lifeboat stations. In 1859 the first Government-built lifeboat arrived at Warrnambool Harbour and a shed was soon built for it on the Tramway Jetty, followed by a rocket house in 1864 to safely store the rocket rescue equipment. In 1878 the buildings were moved to the Breakwater (constructed from 1874-1890), and in 1910 the new Lifeboat Warrnambool arrived with its ‘self-righting’ design. For almost a hundred years the lifesaving and rescue crews, mostly local volunteers, trained regularly to rehearse and maintain their rescue skills. They were summoned when needed by alarms, gunshots, ringing bells and foghorns. In July 1873 a brass bell was erected at Flagstaff Hill specifically to call the rescue crew upon news of a shipwreck. Some crew members became local heroes but all served an important role. Rocket apparatus was used as recently as the 1950s. Rocket Rescue Method - The Government of Victoria adopted lifesaving methods based on Her Majesty’s Coast Guard in Great Britain. It authorised the first line-throwing rescue system in 1858. Captain Manby’s mortar powered a projectile connected to a rope, invented in 1808. The equipment was updated to John Dennett’s 8-foot shaft and rocket method that had a longer range of about 250 yards. From the 1860s the breeches buoy apparatus was in use. The apparatus was suspended on a hawser line and manually pulled to and from the distressed vessel carrying passengers and items. In the early 1870s Colonel Boxer’s rocket carried the light line, which was faked, or coiled, in a particular way between pegs in a faking box to prevent twists and tangles when fired. The angle of firing the rocket to the vessel in distress was measured by a quadrant-type instrument on the side of the rocket machine. Decades later, in about 1920, Schermuly invented the line-throwing pistol that used a small cartridge to fire the rocket. The British Board of Trade published instructions for both the beach rescue crew and ship’s crew. It involved setting up the rocket launcher on shore at a particular angle measured by the quadrant, inserting a rocket that had a lightweight line threaded through its shaft, and then firing it across the stranded vessel, the line issuing freely from the faking board. A tally board was then sent out to the ship with instructions in four languages. The ship’s crew would haul on the line to bring out the heavier, continuous whip line, then secure the attached whip block to the mast or other sturdy part of the ship. The rescue crew on shore then hauled out a stronger hawser line, which the ship’s crew fixed above the whip block. The hawser was then tightened using the block on the shore end of the whip. The breeches buoy and endless whip are then attached to the traveller block on the hawser, allowing the shore crew to haul the breeches buoy to and from the vessel, rescuing the stranded crew one at a time. Beach apparatus equipment - In the mid-1800s the equipment could include a line throwing set, coiled line in wooden carrying case, rockets, cartridges, breeches buoy, hawser and traveller block, line-throwing pistol, beach cart, hand barrow, sand anchor, crotch pole, and tools such as spade, pick, mallet and hawser cutter. Around the 1860s Warrnambool had a Rocket House installed beside the Harbour. This water canteen is significant for its connection with local history, maritime history and marine technology. Lifesaving has been an important part of the services performed from Warrnambool's very early days, supported by State and Local Government, and based on the methods and experience of Great Britain. Hundreds of shipwrecks along the coast are evidence of the rough weather and rugged coastline. Ordinary citizens, the Harbour employees, and the volunteer boat and rescue crew, saved lives in adverse circumstances. Some were recognised as heroes, others went unrecognised. In Lady Bay, Warrnambool, there were around 16 known shipwrecks between 1850 and 1905. Many lives were saved but tragically, eight lives were lost.Water canteen and ladle; blue painted oval metal cylinder with a removable round threaded lid. Two adjustable leather shoulder straps are attached to the canteen through metal rings on the sides of the lid. A blue-painted copper ladle with a fixed, 45-degree angled handle is attached to the canteen with a length of string. The water canteen is designed to be carried horizontally.flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, flagstaff hill, maritime museum, maritime village, warrnambool, great ocean road, lady bay, shipwreck, life-saving, lifesaving, rescue crew, rescue, rocket rescue, rocket crew, lifeboat men, beach rescue, line rescue, rescue equipment, volunteer lifesavers, volunteer crew, life saving rescue crew, lifesaving rescue crew, rocket apparatus, survival canteen, rescue canteen, dipper, cup, canteen and dipper, canteen and ladle, water canteen