David Gordon Collection. There were four banks in Tarnagulla at one stage, but two - the National Bank and the Bank of Australasia - were open for a short period only. The single-storey brick building at far left was built in 1859 and used by the Union Bank until 1888, and was later renamed 'Lochcarron' and used as premises by doctors and dentists. The two-storey building (right) was built in 1866 by the Colonial Bank of Australasia. Before this, the site had been occupied by Foo's shop. Whilst it was being built, the Colonial Bank operated from Company's Hotel (later known as Burstall Hall and the Council Chambers). The double-storey building in this image was used by the Colonial Bank from 1866 until 21st February, 1888. The premises were sold to the Union Bank for £2500. The Union Bank moved in and commenced operations on 6th June 1888, continuing until 1942. The building was later used as a general store until the 1990s. Both buildings are now private residences. This image was created by Aime Marchand in June 1866. Marchand (1846-1910) made a series of fourteen photographs which were submitted to the 1866-67 Melbourne Intercolonial Exhibition, where they earned a 1st Class Honourable Mention. This is one of those fourteen images. Of French or Belgian origin and possibly formerly an assayer in California, Marchand appears to have begun his practice of photography in Tarnagulla around 1865 as an assistant to A.B. Clay. By the following year he had settled in Portland, where he opened the Royal Photographic Studio in Gawler Street. From his base in Portland he toured surrounding districts, offering portrait and view services. Little else is known about his life. He appears to have left Australia in 1878. A misprint of his name in a local directory as Annie Marchand created the misconception that he was one of only a few named women photographers in the colonies.

This journal provides the reader with glimpses of the adventures and hardships of a seaman's life. Many of the stories are of sailing ships.Contributes to our knowledge of the importance of shipping and places on record those stories of the sea which would otherwise be lost.Contents Indonesian Sailing Harbour - Michael Treacy Errata Dog Watch 50 - Cerberus Crumbles - - The Carola Story - R. N. Thiele Left Behind - W.S. McUtchen Circumnavigation of Tasmania - Alex Algie HMS/HMAS Kanimbla — An Afterthought. Farewell Captain George Molyneux - Keith Nichols Eight Bells - Capt.G. S. Dooley Blue Water Sailing - Valerie Watts Little Man, Big Ship - Capt. J. Ferrell Colton Fire At Sea - Capt. Ron Hart Case of the Missing Sandal - W. P. Shemmeld Frankston-On-Sea- G. M. Naug Voyage - A. Roland Jones Registration, Surveys and Tonnage of Ships 1786-1992 - J. Mills and K. Shewan Cruising Western Port - Harrow Morgan Letters From a Deck Hand on S.S. Thistleford - F. A. Bishop A Sheer Fanatic - Capt. Eric I. Messer The Final Voyage of R.R.S. John Briscoe - T. J. Boult Of Luggers, Pearls and Men - Lawrence Whyte A Sailor’s Life - G. A. Alcock Book Reviews - sailing ships, steamships, shipping, seafaring life, shiplovers' society of victoria, dog watch

Pair of black timber lockable doors which are hinged and open. Inside doors black frame with red stripe. Lettering gold on green background, 'PCR' above LH door. Outside - main cabinet area 61cm wide , 76cm long and 12cm deep. Top & bottom pieces approximately 70cm wide & 16cm deep at base. Extra fancy piece at top is broken & unattached. Inside - dispensation certificate from the High Court with one eye depicted. LH side names : Scopes T 2, Nicoll jnr, Wiseman Hy 3, Mc Geeghan Ed 8, Salmon Wm H, Shont Wm, Donaghue Mel, Breustedt Hy 3, Nichels Chs 4, Hulme Wm, Tidyman Jn 2, Egan Geo 12, Mc Laren FS 8, Waddell JND, Birtles Pr, Wiseman WH, O'Neill Jas, Pope Wm, Cook ChS, Lorrimer JSL 4. RH Side : Yeatman Jas, Tresise WJ, Yeatman S.M.L, Lorimer Wm 5, Batters Wm 2, Malsem Alex 2, Downs Sml N2, Dodds Geo, Currie D, Nl C, Currie Jnd. Certificate - framed, authority from Plymouth, Devon, bros Nicoll, Little, Foster of Stanley, 28th August 1865. b/w emblem with 2 men each side of shield including deer, horn, hound and background of forest.

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

Found in attic of Hardware store at No. 1 Barkly Avenue, Richmond. This store was the original home of the Turner Tools Company (later Stanley Tools Co). The Company moved to Swan Street Richmond before they moved to Nunawading. (Information Courtesy of Graham Plaw of the Hand Tools Preservation Society). Inscription from postcards written by Joseph Tracey to his wife Jessie and daughter Ruby, 9 Barclay Street, Richmond. Joseph's number was 2891, 38th battalion, 6th reinforcements. Joseph embarked from Melbourne Victoria on board HMAT A7 Medic on 16th December 1916 and returned to Australia 10 April 1919WWIWooden framed picture with eight souvenir postcards and one handkerchief from France 1919, mounted on wood veneer. Handkerchief with 1919 and pink flowers on top. Army photo of 17 soldiers. All postcards are embroidered and the handkerchief with lace edging a Souvenir de France: 1919.On the flower- Rose Day in London 13/7/17 Post card inscriptions: -Wednesday 11/4/17. Well Dear I did reseve your loving letter yesterday and I was pleas to heare that you was out of the Hospitle agan and I hope you keep well right now and Dear I hope you don't afto go in to the Hospitle agan Well Dear dont you voat for Conscription voat NO as the game is not fare. To My Loving Wife from your Loving Husbiun Lark Hill Camp -Just a small Card from a land so fare away amuce the snow and strangers in the lovey place they ? London I remain your loving husbuin Sutton Mandeville Camp To my Dear Wife From your lovening Husbuin Abroad -Just a small card from a Place far away and so cold and quite I wish I was near you agan and let it be sun I send this from Lark Hill Camp To My Dear Daughter From Dear Dader -To My Dear Little Ruby I am sending this card to you with my best love to you and lots of kiss for you Dear and hope you are a good Girl for Mother from your Dear Father in a place so far away. The best of love to you and hope you are well as it leave me in the best of Halth. Sent from Camp at Wind mill Hill on the Planys Vilies Tudgershall. Miss Ruby Tracey No. 9 Barkley Avenue E Richmond Melb Vic Australin -From Dear Dadey Just a token my Dear Daughter From your farther across the sea and smetimes I that I hear your laughter Blown right across the Water. From Sutton Mandeville No. 4 Trayind Camp To Miss R Tracey No 9 Barkley Avenue Richmond Australian -My Darling Wife Just a small card from your loving Boy and Hoping you Will be please with it I did get this at the camp we just came to the name of it is Sutton Mandeville and it was snowing a little. Mrs J Tracey No 9 Barkley Avenue Richmond Aust Vict Aust military history, army

This item is from the ‘Pattison Collection’, a collection of books and records that was originally owned by the Warrnambool Mechanics’ Institute, which was founded in Warrnambool in 1853. By 1886 the Warrnambool Mechanics’ Institute (WMI) had grown to have a Library, Museum and Fine Arts Gallery, with a collection of “… choice productions of art, and valuable specimens in almost every branch and many wonderful national curiosities are now to be seen there, including historic relics of the town and district.” It later included a School of Design. Although it was very well patronised, the lack of financial support led the WMI in 1911 to ask the City Council to take it over. In 1935 Ralph Pattison was appointed as City Librarian to establish and organise the Warrnambool Library as it was then called. When the WMI building was pulled down in 1963 a new civic building was erected on the site and the new Warrnambool Library, on behalf of the City Council, took over all the holdings of the WMI. At this time some of the items were separated and identified as the ‘Pattison Collection’, named after Ralph Pattison. Eventually the components of the WMI were distributed from the Warrnambool Library to various places, including the Art Gallery, Historical Society and Flagstaff Hill. Later some were even distributed to other regional branches of Corangamite Regional Library and passed to and fro. It is difficult now to trace just where all of the items have ended up. The books at Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village generally display stamps and markings from Pattison as well as a variety of other institutions including the Mechanics’ Institute itself. RALPH ERIC PATTISON Ralph Eric Pattison was born in Rockhampton, Queensland, in 1891. He married Maude Swan from Warrnambool in 1920 and they set up home in Warrnambool. In 1935 Pattison accepted a position as City Librarian for the Warrnambool City Council. His huge challenge was to make a functional library within two rooms of the Mechanics’ Institute. He tirelessly cleaned, cleared and sorted a disarrayed collection of old books, jars of preserved specimens and other items reserved for exhibition in the city’s museum. He developed and updated the library with a wide variety of books for all tastes, including reference books for students; a difficult task to fulfil during the years following the Depression. He converted all of the lower area of the building into a library, reference room and reading room for members and the public. The books were sorted and stored using a cataloguing and card index system that he had developed himself. He also prepared the upper floor of the building and established the Art Gallery and later the Museum, a place to exhibit the many old relics that had been stored for years for this purpose. One of the treasures he found was a beautiful ancient clock, which he repaired, restored and enjoyed using in his office during the years of his service there. Ralph Pattison was described as “a meticulous gentleman whose punctuality, floorless courtesy and distinctive neat dress were hallmarks of his character, and ‘his’ clock controlled his daily routine, and his opening and closing of the library’s large heavy doors to the minute.” Pattison took leave during 1942 to 1945 to serve in the Royal Australian Navy, Volunteer Reserve as Lieutenant. A few years later he converted one of the Museum’s rooms into a Children’s Library, stocking it with suitable books for the younger generation. This was an instant success. In the 1950’s he had the honour of being appointed to the Victorian Library Board and received more inspiration from the monthly conferences in Melbourne. He was sadly retired in 1959 after over 23 years of service, due to the fact that he had gone over the working age of council officers. However he continued to take a very keen interest in the continual development of the Library until his death in 1969. WARRNAMBOOL'S MECHANICS' INSTITUTE Warrnambool's Mechanics' Institute (or Institution as it was sometimes called) was one of the earliest in Victoria. On 17th October 1853 a meeting was held where it was resolved to request the Lieutenant Governor of the Colony to grant land for the erection of a Mechanics' Institutes building. A committee was formed at the meeting and Richard Osburne chaired the first meeting of this committee. The land on the North West corner of Banyan and Merri Streets was granted but there were no funds to erect the building. The Formal Rights of the Warrnambool Mechanics' Institute's encompassed its aims and these were officially adopted in1859; "This Institution has for its object the diffusion of literary, scientific, and other useful knowledge amongst its members, excluding all controversial subjects, religious or political. These objects are sought to be obtained by means of a circulating library, a reading room, the establishment of classes, debates, and the occasional delivery of lectures on natural and experimental philosophy, mechanics, astronomy, chemistry, natural history, literature, and the useful and ornamental arts, particularly those which have a more immediate reference to the colony." The Warrnambool Mechanics' Institute opened its first reading room in November1884 in the National School building at the corner of Banyan and Timor Streets. The Institute was funded by member subscription, payable on a quarterly, half yearly or yearly basis. Samuel Hannaford, the Manager of the Warrnambool Bank of Australasia, was the first Honorary Secretary of the Mechanics' Institutes, and an early President and Vice-President. He also gave several of the early lectures in the Reading Room. Another early Secretary, Librarian and lecturer was Marmaduke Fisher, the teacher at the National School. Lecture topics included The Poets and Poetry of Ireland', 'The Birth and Development of the Earth', 'The Vertebrae - with Remarks on the pleasures resulting from the study of Natural History' and 'Architecture'. In 1856 the Reading Room was moved to James Hider's shop in Timor Street, and by 1864 it was located in the bookshop of Davies and Read. In the 1860's the Mechanics' Institute struggled as membership waned but in 1866, after a series of fund raising efforts, the committee was able to purchase land in Liebig Street, on a site then called Market Square, between the weighbridge and the fire station. A Mechanics' Institute building was opened at this site in August 1871. The following year four more rooms were added to the main Reading Room and in 1873 the Artisan School of Design was incorporated into the Institute. The same year Joseph Archibald established a Museum; however it deteriorated when he was transferred to Bendigo in 1877. In 1880, with Archibald's return to Warrnambool, the Museum was re-established, and in 1885 a new building was built at the back of the Institute to accommodate the re-created School of Design, the Art Gallery and the Museum. In 1887 the Museum section was moved to the former court house in Timor Street (for some time the walls of the building formed part of the TAFE cafeteria but all is now demolished)). In 1911 the Museum was transferred back to the original building and the management of the Mechanics' Institute was handed over to the Warrnambool City Council. The Museum and Art Gallery became one and housed many fine works of art, and the Library continued to grow. The building was well patronised, with records showing that at the beginning of the 20th century there were between 500 and 800 visitors. During World War One the monthly figures were in the thousands, with 3,400 people visiting in January 1915. The Museum was a much loved Institution in Warrnambool until the contents of the Museum and Art Gallery were removed to make room for the Warrnambool City Council Engineers' Department. The contents were stored but many of the items were scattered or lost. When the original building was demolished the site became occupied by the Civic Centre, which included the new City Library. (The library was temporarily located in the old Palais building in Koroit Street.) In the process of reorganisation the Collection was distributed amongst the community groups: -The new City Library took some of the historic books and some important documents, historic photographs and newspapers. -The Art Gallery kept the 19th Century art collection and some of the artefacts from the museum. -The Historic Society has some items -The State Museum has some items -Some items were destroyed -Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village has old newspapers, Government Gazettes, most of the Mechanics' Institute Library, ledgers and documents connected to the Mechanics' Institute Library, some framed and unframed art works and some photographs. The Warrnambool Mechanics' Institute Library book collection is deemed to be of great importance because it is one of the few collections in an almost intact state, and many of the books are now very rare and of great value. WARRNAMBOOL PUBLIC LIBRARY The Warrnambool Mechanics’ Institute (WMI) was formed by a voluntary community group in 1863, within six years of Warrnambool’s beginnings, and its Reading Room opened in 1854. The WMI operated until 1963, at which time it was one of the oldest Mechanics’ Institutes in Victoria. Mechanics’ Institutes offered important services to the public including libraries, reading rooms and places to display and store collections of all sorts such as curiosities and local historical relics. In 1886 a Museum and Fine Arts Gallery were added to the WMI and by the beginning of the 20th century there was also a billiards room and a School of Art. By this time all Mechanics’ Institutes in country Victoria had museums attached. Over the years the Warrnambool Mechanics’ Institute Library was also known as the Warrnambool Public Library the Warrnambool Library and the Free Library. Early funding from the government was for the “Free Library”. The inscription in a book “Science of Man” was for the “Warrnambool Public Library”, donated by Joseph Archibald in 1899. Another inscription in the book “Catalogue of Plants Under Cultivation in the Melbourne Botanic Gardens 1 & 2, 1883” was presented to the “Warrnambool Library” and signed by the author W.R. Guilfoyle. In 1903 the Warrnambool Public Library decided to add a Juvenile Department to library and stock it with hundreds of books suitable for youth. In 1905 the Public Library committee decided to update the collection of books and added 100 new novels plus arrangements for the latest novels to be included as soon as they were available in Victoria. In July 1911 the Warrnambool Council took over the management of the Public Library, Art Gallery, Museum and Mechanics’ Institute and planned to double the size of the then-current building. In 1953, when Mr. R. Pattison was Public Librarian, the Warrnambool Public Library’s senior section 10,000 of the 13,000 books were fiction. The children’s section offered an additional 3,400 books. The library had the equivalent of one book per head of population and served around 33 percent of the reading population. The collection of books was made up of around 60 percent reference and 40 percent fiction. The library was lending 400 books per day. In 1963 the Warrnambool City Council allocated the site of the Mechanics’ Institute building, which included the Public Library, Museum and Art Gallery, for the new Municipal Offices and the Collections were dispersed until 1971. The Warrnambool Library took over the Mechanics’ Institute Library’s holdings on behalf of the Warrnambool City Council. Since the closure of the Warrnambool Mechanics’ Institute the exact location and composition of the original WMI books and items has become unclear. Other materials have been added to the collection, including items from Terang MI, Warrnambool Court House and Customs House. Many of the books have been identified as the Pattison Collection, named after the Librarian who catalogued and numbered the books during his time as Warrnambool Public Librarian in the time before the Mechanics’ Institute closed. It seems that when Warrnambool became part of the Corangamite Regional Library some of the books and materials went to its head office in Colac and then back to Warrnambool where they were stored at the Art Gallery for quite some time. Some then went to the Warrnambool Historical Society, some stayed at the Art Gallery and some were moved to Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village. The various stamps and labels on the books held at Flagstaff Hill show the variety of the collection’s distribution and origin. The books in the collection at Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village date from the 1850’s to the late 1950’s and include rare and valuable volumes. Many of the books are part of the “Pattison Collection” after the Warrnambool’s Public Librarian, Mr. R. Pattison. Ethel Mary Turner Ethel Turner (25th January 1872 – 8th April 1958) was an English-born Australian novelist and children's literature writer. She was born Ethel Mary Burwell in Doncaster in England. Her father died when she was two, leaving her mother Sarah Jane Burwell with two daughters (Ethel and Lillian). A year later, Ethel’s mother married Henry Turner, who was 20 years older and had six children of his own. Sarah Jane and Henry had a daughter, Rose. Henry Turner died suddenly, leaving Sarah Jane with nine children and little income. In 1879 Sarah Jane moved to Australia with Ethel, Lillian, and Rose; within the next two years she married Charles Cope and gave birth to his son Rex. Ethel Turner was educated at Paddington, New South Wales Public School and Sydney Girls High School she was one of the school's original thirty-seven pupils. Ethel started her writing career at eighteen, founding the Parthenon, a journal for young people, with her sister Lillian. Writing as “Dame Durden”, she wrote children's columns for the Illustrated Sydney News and later for the Australian Town and Country Journal. In 1891 the family moved to Woodlands, a large house in Lindfield, now Killara, which was then out in the country. Woodlands still stands today in Werona Avenue and is where she wrote “Seven Little Australians”. In 1896 Ethel married Herbert Curlewis, a lawyer. After living in Mosman, they built their own house overlooking Middle Harbour. The house, Avenel, is where Ethel Turner spent the rest of her years. She survived her daughter Jean Curlewis, who died of tuberculosis, by 28 years. Jean was also a writer of children's books, although not as popular as her mother. Jean's works include “The Ship That Never Set Sail”, “Drowning Maze”, and “Beach Beyond (1923)”. Her son Adrian, was a Barrister, Captain in WW2 and a Changi and Thai-Burma Railway POW and later a Judge. Ethel Turner died at Mosman on 8 April 1958 at 85. She is buried at Macquarie Park Her best-known work is her first novel, Seven Little Australians (1894), which is widely considered a classic of Australian children's literature and was an instant hit both in Australia and overseas. It is about a family of seven children growing up in Australia. The book, together with its sequels “The Family at Misrule” (1895) and “Little Mother Meg” (1902) that deal with the lives of the Wolcott family, particularly with its seven mischievous children in 1880s Australia. A companion to "Seven Little Australians", “Judy and Punch” was published in 1928. Like her stepfather, the character of Captain Woollcott was a widower with six children. The book was made into a feature film in Australia in 1939 and a UK television series in 1953. A 10-episode television series was made in 1973 by the Australian Broadcasting Corporation. Turner published a number of other books for children, short stories and poems. “Three Little Maids” (1900) is a strongly autobiographical novel about her family's migration from England to Sydney, Australia. Turner wrote more than forty novels. Some were about the mischievous Wolcott’s. Others were serialized, like her books on "the Cub", and some were stand-alone. The children she wrote about were all adventurous and independent. They frequently got themselves into sticky situations and got themselves out of them with very little to no adult help. Turner was awarded a number of prestigious literary awards and could be considered one of Australia's best-loved authors. She is listed on The Australian Women's Register. The Ethel Turner Prize for Young People's Literature is given annually under the auspices of the New South Wales Premier's Literary Awards. Ref Ethel Mary Turner, Biography: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethel_Turner The Pattison Collection, along with other items at Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village, was originally part of the Warrnambool Mechanics' Institute’s collection. The Warrnambool Mechanics’ Institute Collection is primarily significant in its totality, rather than for the individual objects it contains. Its contents are highly representative of the development of Mechanics' Institute libraries across Australia, particularly Victoria. A diversity of publications and themes has been amassed, and these provide clues to our understanding of the nature of and changes in the reading habits of Victorians from the 1850s to the middle of the 20th century. The collection also highlights the Warrnambool community’s commitment to the Mechanics’ Institute, reading, literacy and learning in the regions, and proves that access to knowledge was not impeded by distance. These items help to provide a more complete picture of our community’s ideals and aspirations. The Warrnambool Mechanics Institute book collection has historical and social significance for its strong association with the Mechanics Institute movement and the important role it played in the intellectual, cultural and social development of people throughout the latter part of the nineteenth century and the early twentieth century. The collection of books is a rare example of an early lending library and its significance is enhanced by the survival of an original collection of many volumes. The Warrnambool Mechanics' Institute’s publication collection is of both local and state significance. Brigid and The Cub Author: Ethel Turner Publisher: Ward, Lock & Co Date: 1919Label on spine cover with typed text PAT FIC TUR Pastedown front endpaper has sticker from Warrnambool Public Library covered by a sticker from Corangamite Regional Library Service Front loose endpaper has a stamp from Warrnambool Mechanics Institutewarrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, shipwrecked-artefact, book, pattison collection, warrnambool library, warrnambool mechanics’ institute, ralph eric pattison, corangamite regional library service, warrnambool city librarian, mechanics’ institute library, victorian library board, warrnambool books and records, warrnambool children’s library, great ocean road, brigid and the cub, ethel turner

TROVE : Age (Melbourne, Vic. : 1854 - 1954), Saturday 11 October 1862, page 8 ‘…..AYER'S SARSAPARILLA FOR PURIFYING THE BLOOD; A compound remedy, designed to be the most effectual Alterative that can be made. It is a concentrated extract of Para Sarsaparilla, so combined with other substances of still greater alternative power as to afford an effective antidote for the diseases Sarsaparilla is reputed to cure. It is believed that such a remedy is wanted by those who suffer from Strumous complaints, and that one which will accomplish their cure must prove of immense service to this large class of our afflicted fellow-citizens. How completely this compound will do it has been proven by experiment on many of the worst cases to be found of the following complaints : — Scrofula and Scrofulous complaints, Eruptions and Eruptive Diseases, Ulcers, Pimples, Blotches, Tumora, Salt Rheum, Scald Head, Syphillis and Syphillitic Affections, Mercurial Disease, Dropsy, Neuralgia or Tic Doloreux, Debility, Dyspepsia and Indigestion, Erysipelas, Rose, or St. Anthony's Fire, and, indeed, the whole class of complaints arising from impurity of the blood. This compound will be found a great promoter of health, when taken in the Spring, to expel the foul humors which fester in the blood at that season of the year. By the timely expulsion of them many rankling disorders are nipped in the bud. Multitudes can, by the aid of this remedy, spare themselves from the endurance of foul eruptions and ulcerous sores, through which the system will strive to rid itself of corruptions, if not assisted to do this through the natural channels of the body by an alternative medicine. Cleanse out the vitiated blood whenever you find its impurities bursting through the skin in pimples, eruptions, or sores ; cleanse it when you find it is obstructed and sluggish in the veins ; cleanse it whenever it is foul, and your feelings will tell you when. Even where no particular disorder is felt, people enjoy batter health, and live longer, for cleansing the blood. Keep the blood healthy, and all is well; but with this pabulum of life disordered, there can be no lasting health. Sooner or later something must go wrong, and the great machinery of life is dis ordered or overthrown. Sarsaparilla has, and deserves much, the reputation of accomplishing these ends. But the world has been egregiously deceived by preparations of it, partly because the drug alone has not all the virtue that is claimed for it, but more because many preparations, pretending to be concentrated extracts of it, contain but little of the virtue of Sarsaparilla, or anything else. _ During late years, the public have been misled by large bottles, pretending to give a quart of Extract of Sarsaparilla for one dollar. Most of these have been frauds upon the sick, for they not only contain little, if any, Sarsaparilla, but often no curative properties whatever. bitter and painful disappointment has followed the use of the various extracts of Sarsaparilla which flood the market, until the name itself is justly despised, and has become synonymous with imposition and cheat. Still, we call this compound Sarsaparilla, and intend to supply such a remedy as shall rescue the name from the load of obloquy which rests upon it. And we think we have ground for believing it has virtues which are irresistible by the ordinary run of the diseases it is intended to cure. In order to secure their complete eradication from the system, the remedy should be judiciously taken according to directions on the bottle. Prepared by DR. J. C; AYER and CO., Lowell, Mass. HENRI J. HART, Sole Wholesale Agent, 21 Queen street south. Sub-agents required for all the interior towns.’ TROVE : Herald (Melbourne, Vic. : 1861 - 1954), Monday 12 November 1934, page 4 DOCTORS SHOW QUICK WAY TO END STOMACH TROUBLE Miss Ethel Phillips, Like Numbers of Victorian People, Surprised to Find How Quickly Freedom from Indigestion Improves Health, Increases Vigor and Makes One's Complexion Healthier and More Radiant. More and more Victorian people are finding that the way one looks and feels depends largely on one's digestion. And .they have learned that Ayer's Sarsaparilla — by ending indigestion — gives one increased strength, steadier nerves, clearer skin, and the improved appearance that can come only from improved health. (Photo) : HOSPITAL NURSE ENDS GASTRIC INDIGESTION BY TEMPTING TASTE OF SARSPARILLA AT MEALTIME Tall clear aqua tinted glass bottle, rectangular in section, with rectangular panels impressed on four sides with embossed text in the four panels. A shallow dome impression on the base containing embossed text.Side 1 : 'AYER'S'. Side 2 : 'COMPOUND EXT.' Side 3 : 'LOWELL MASS. U.S.A.'. Side 4 : 'SARSAPARILLA'. Base 'C57'.ayer's, sarsaparilla, compound extraction

This rectangle black and white photograph shows a bush scene with part of a suspension rope and wooden plank bridge visible in the middle of the image. It is likely this suspension bridge was used by the Tannery workers to move between the town and the Ovens Tannery located South-West of Beechworth due to its secluded bush location, the bridge likely spanned the gorge across Spring creek. The tannery itself was located alongside Gimlet Creek, about three kilometres from town, down what is now known as Malakoff and Old Tannery Road but which at the time was remote and accessed through bushland. The Ovens tannery was stablished in 1858 by Matthew Dodd and Hallahan and later Matthew and his brother Thomas Dodd in 1866 who developed it over the years. According to Doyle, 'we have little information about its early operations except the tannery itself comprised four small buildings' by 1870 ‘a small village with gardens of vines and fruit trees surrounded the tannery’ (Woods, 121), and by 1887 the Tannery employed fifteen men. The Ovens tannery was among several new businesses establishing themselves such as a foundry that brought industrial manufacturing alongside the developing township and which strengthened the economic stability of Beechworth after the receding mining surge. According to Woods (p. 121) in the 1860’s the government spent considerable sums to establish several public buildings such as the Benevolent Asylum, the Hospital and Insane Asylum to support those in need of care in the area directly after the Indigo gold rush which had left Beechworth, a fairly remote regional and newly formed township (Gold was first discovered in Beechworth in 1852) with a number of infirm and destitute people in its wake and which due to the support and establishment of these facilities ‘made Beechworth a significant social welfare centre in Victoria’ (Woods, p. 121). The tannery provided employment and connected the regional centre with other parts of Victoria and the wider colonial outposts and would have been a welcome opportunity for those seeking work after gold was no longer a source of income.A good example of the ingenuity of regional settlers to achieve what would have been a difficult and remote construction of a bridge as a means of access. This bridge is evidence of planning and forethought and shows dedication to establishing a life in a remote landscape.Black and white rectangular photograph printed on paperreverse: / 2983 / / BMM2983 /black and white photograph, bush, suspension bridge, rope bridge, tannery, spring creek, ovens tannery, bushland, gimlet creek, matthew dodd, beechworth

This photograph shows one of the many weddings held at the Mission to Seafarers over the years and provides an overview of wedding fashion of the late 1920s. The Bride is posing in the courtyard of the Mission to Seamen. The bridesmaids were Ella Kendall and Molly Walker. The Walkers and Dora had a long association with the Mission and the LHLG and in the 1960s becoming president of the Flying Angel League which amalgamated with the LHLG in the early 1960s. In 1970 Dora received an OBE. Private images of the day for the record were supplied to the Mission by sons David and Brian in 2018. The article in the Herald of the day describes the event: "WEDDING AT SEAMEN'S CHAPEL Reception at Hotel Windsor The pretty little chapel at the Sea men's Institute was packed with interested friends this afternoon, when Miss Dora Walker, one of the Mission's most enthusiastic and efficient voluntary helpers, chose it as the setting for her marriage with Mr H. P. Simpson, son of Mr and Mrs J. H. Simpson, of Mornington. A group of her fellow workers decorated the chapel with lovely pink and white gladioli, carnations and roses. The ceremony was performed by the Rev. J. R. Weller, chaplain of the Mission, and the bride was given away by her father, Mr A. W. Walker, of Manning road, East Malvern. She wore a lovely ivory georgette frock, the finely tucked skirt being fashioned with a deep transparent hem of Chantilly lace. Over it fell a beautiful Honiton lace veil mounted on tulle and arranged to give the ef fect of a train. Fragrant white roses composed her bouquet. Two attendants followed her down the aisle — her sister, Miss Molly Walker, and Miss Ella Kendall — both wearing dainty shrimp pink georgette frocks and large crinoline straw hats in the same shade with a dainty edging of tulle. They carried bouquets of pink cactus dahlias nnd delphiniums. Mr Louis Buscombe was best man, and Mr George Thompson grooms man. After the ceremony Mr and Mrs Walker entertained about 50 guests at the Hotel Windsor."This photograph shows one of the many weddings performed at the Mission to Seafarers chapel over the years. Cross referencing with the marriage registers, also held in the collection, records that this photograph is Amy Dora Simpson (nee Dora Walker) of East Malvern marrying Harold Priestley Simpson of Surrey Hills / Mornington? on 14 February 1928.Sepia toned photograph of bride and attendants in the courtyard of the Mission to Seafarers. The bride's dress is calf length and she is standing with her veil draped in front of her, holding a large bouquet. There are two attendants to the right of the photograph, wearing layered calf length dresses and wearing cloche hats and holding small posy bouquets. The bridal group is posed standing in in the courtyard near the entrance to the MTS chapel.Small circular Blue ink stamp on rear of photograph: Printed by Harringtons stamped 2 small numerals : 3 and 8hat, flowers, veil, wedding, dress, ivy, shoes, dora walker, dora simpson, ella kendall, molly walker, amy dora walker, reverend j.r. weller, flinders street, st peter chapel, mission to seamen, seamen's mission, mission to seafarers, david simpson

On 6 December 2018, a recurring event was organised at the Mission. From the Multicultural website: "Meeting at the Seafarer’s bridge on the Yarra, you will be welcomed into a little-known site nearby, a sanctuary for seafarers for the last 100 years and a symbol of old-world generosity amidst the rapidly shifting landscape of the Docklands. A journey through the quirky spaces at Mission to Seafarer’s site through a compelling contemporary ritual performance. The Echoes Projects artists evoke fragments of stories embedded in this site through mesmerising live soundscapes, movement and imagery. Ria Soemardjo, Janette Hoe and Pongjit (Jon) Saphakhun collaborate to create an ongoing exploration of contemporary rituals in response to urban sites in Australia. Based in Melbourne, their contemporary performance work draws deeply from their personal connections to Thai, Chinese and Indonesian ceremonial traditions. Featuring Intricate rhythmic compositions inspired by the rich heritage of Indonesian and Middle Eastern musical traditions, performed by Ron Reeves and Matt Stonehouse – two of Australia’s foremost world music percussionists. Note: 7 PM and 8 PM sessions include delicious vegetarian Indonesian food. 9 PM session includes Indonesian and Thai cakes and sweets. You are invited to stay and eat after the performance, drinks available for purchase at the venue. Performers: Janette Hoe – dance artist Pongjit (Jon) Sekhukhune – actor Ria Soemardjo – musician Ron Reeves – musician Matt Stonehouse – musician /instrument maker Supported by the City of Melbourne Arts Grants Program Details: 6 Dec 2018 (Thursday) Sessions: 7 PM, 8 PM & 9 PM The Mission to Seafarers Audience Meeting point – next to the entrance of the Seafarer’s Bridge, Siddeley St, Docklands. Wheelchair accessible venue. Bookings essential. Tickets: $10 – $15 via Eventbrite. Ticket price is purely to pay for the food element. Companion Card ticketing available. Please contact Multicultural Arts Victoria for ticketing options. Companion ticket will allow admission only. The Seafarers Welcome is presented as part of Mapping Melbourne 2018."The Mission has always welcomed artistic events Colour programme of events with illustrationstop right corner: Multicultural Arts Victoria lower left corner: MAPPING MELBOURNE/1-15 DECEMBER 2018arts, events, multicultural arts victoria, the seafarer welcome, echoes project, 2018, cultural events, community

The Marriage Register lists Harold Priestley Simpson and Amy Dora Walker as the bride and groom, and the wedding date as 14th of February 1928. The photograph uses the personal Harry and Dora, instead of the formal Harold and Amy. In the Register, Amy started signing her name as Dora. before correcting it. The photograph shows that weddings took place at the Chapel during the late 1920's, and the style of weddings at the time. This includes the type of outfits worn, such as the length of the veil and the type of bouquet carried. Dora's Bridesmaids are depicted in 2 other images in the MTSV collection also an image of the chapel decked with flowers for the occasion. The article in the Herald of the day describes the event: "WEDDING AT SEAMEN'S CHAPEL Reception at Hotel Windsor The pretty little chapel at the Sea men's Institute was packed with interested friends this afternoon, when Miss Dora Walker, one of the Mission's most enthusiastic and efficient voluntary helpers, chose it as the setting for her marriage with Mr H. P. Simpson, son of Mr and Mrs J. H. Simpson, of Mornington. A group of her fellow workers decorated the chapel with lovely pink and white gladioli, carnations and roses. The ceremony was performed by the Rev. J. R. Weller, chaplain of the Mission, and the bride was given away by her father, Mr A. W. Walker, of Manning road, East Malvern. She wore a lovely ivory georgette frock, the finely tucked skirt being fashioned with a deep transparent hem of Chantilly lace. Over it fell a beautiful Honiton lace veil mounted on tulle and arranged to give the ef fect of a train. Fragrant white roses composed her bouquet. Two attendants followed her down the aisle — her sister, Miss Molly Walker, and Miss Ella Kendall — both wearing dainty shrimp pink georgette frocks and large crinoline straw hats in the same shade with a dainty edging of tulle. They carried bouquets of pink cactus dahlias nnd delphiniums. Mr Louis Buscombe was best man, and Mr George Thompson grooms man. After the ceremony Mr and Mrs Walker entertained about 50 guests at the Hotel Windsor."The photograph shows St. Peter chapel was being used for weddings in 1928. The Anglican church has been used for weddings since being finished in 1917. The Marriage Register shows that these weddings were legal in the Commonwealth of Australia, and lists Church of England as the denomination for this wedding. Miss Amy Dora Simpson (nee Walker) had a long association with the Mission, first as a young Volunteer with the Ladies Harbour Light Guild circa WW1, and through to her wedding in early 1928 and beyond. Square sepia, glossy photograph of a bride and groom, taken as they leave a building. Guests are throwing rice at the newlywed. The groom is turned towards the camera, while the bride is looking ahead, carrying a bouquet. There is a white border around top, bottom and left edges, the photograph seems to have been cut in half along the right edge.On the reverse: handwritten in blue pen JUST MARRIED!/DORA & HARRY/28/2/28. 618 is stamped in blue ink . (date is incorrect as wedding took place on 14/2/28)bride, wedding, groom, 1928, dora simpson, dora walker, st peter chapel, harry simpson, lhlg, flinders street, harold priestley simpson, valentine's day, amy dora walker, ladies harbour lights guild, mr and mrs a.w. walker, malvern, manning road, reverend j.r weller, molly walker, ella kendall, david simpson

Shilinglaw Cottage in its original location on Main Road Eltham with the three Mediterranean Cypress trees (“Shillllinglaw trees”) in the garden. Note a fourth pine to the right. This image was taken shortly before its relocation. Believed to be have been taken by John Collins, 17 Oct 1963 as per other images held by the State Library of Victoria Author / Creator: John T Collins 1907-2001 , photographer. J.T. Collins Collection, La Trobe Picture Collection, State Library of Victoria. Shillinglaw Cottage is significant to Eltham’s local history. It is one of the earliest known buildings still in existence. Records suggest that the cottage was built circa 1859 by a man named Cochrane, believed to be Thomas Cochrane, in conjunction with George Stebbings though it is not known what Stebbings’s contribution was. It is made from hand made bricks laid in a Flemish bond pattern. In the 1960s it was marked for demolition to make way for the construction of new council buildings but a community campaign saved the cottage and it was re-located. It is believed Stebbings owned the cottage between 1874 and 1888. According to Margaret Ball’s (2017) book Shillinglaw Family of Eltham 1660-2007, Thomas Cochrane and family lived there from 1867 to 1874 however this is contrary to the records of assessable rates levied by the Eltham District Road Board, established in 1858, which shows Cochrane was the owner occupier (in Little Eltham) of approximately 25 acres of cultivated land and 25 acres of pastureland upon which a hut was sited in 1860. It is suspected that George Stebbings may have acquired the property from Cochrane in 1874 as it is noted that he had a tenant for a period, James Rossiter, who was the editor for the Evelyn Observer in Kangaroo Ground in 1874 (LATE SHIRE OFFICE AT KANGAROO GROUND (1934, February 16). Advertiser (Hurstbridge, Vic. : 1922 - 1939), p. 5. Retrieved February 25, 2022, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article56743657). In 1881 Phillip Shillinglaw became the ratepayer for the cottage though Stebbings retained ownership until 1888 at which time it was transferred to Shillinglaw.Shillinglaw Cottage is itself historically, aesthetically and socially significant to the Shire of Nillumbik and is registered on the Victorian Heritage Database. This photo forms part of a collection of photographs gathered by the Shire of Eltham for their centenary project book, "Pioneers and Painters: 100 years of the Shire of Eltham" by Alan Marshall (1971). The collection of over 500 images is held in partnership between Eltham District Historical Society and Yarra Plenty Regional Library (Eltham Library) and is now formally known as 'The Shire of Eltham Pioneers Photograph Collection.' It is significant in being the first community sourced collection representing the places and people of the Shire's first one hundred years.Digital image 4 x 5 inch B&W Negsepp, shire of eltham pioneers photograph collection, eltham, shillinglaw cottage, significant tree

Original photo from a scrapbook belonging to Heather Jenkins (nee Cone) who lived as a child in the Police Residence at 728 Main Road, Eltham from 1911 to the early 1920s. (Reported in Newsletter No. 98, Sept., 1994). View looking north up Policeman’s Hill across Main Road towards the Police Station, Police Residence and Courthouse, c.1910 prior to Brougham Street being made. The two rails / gap in the fence would be where Brougham Street now enters Main Road. Also visible are Knapman's Forge adjacent to Courthouse and E.J. Andrew's Store on top of the hill At the upper left can be seen the front of the Evelyn Hotel. On the opposite corner was Watsons Hotel. E.J. Andrew's store with its verandah was on the corner of Franklin Street. Behind the picket fence stands the 1860 Court House and Police residence with the weatherboard clad Police office. The enclosed fence is now the end of Brougham Street, opened to Bible Street in 1926. The Evelyn Hotel (formerly Fountain of Friendship) burnt down in the 1930s when it was being used as a boarding house since 1919. A cow is feeding on the grass verge in street. The photo is identified in white lettering typical of the style of Clark Bros., photographers of Windsor, Melbourne (1894-1914). One of the brothers, John Henry Clark, took many early photos around Little Eltham and moved to Eltham in 1916 where he lived at the bottom of the hill. Typically, he would add “J.H. Clark Photo” to his personal work, but this is not evident. There is however some ghost writing, a cheeky inscription in small white lettering in the grass verge in front of where Brougham Street is, which appears to state: “Heather or Hannah was here”. Perhaps J.H. Clark took the photo during a trip to Eltham and gifted it some years later after moving there as a gift to a young Heather Cone. The Police Station sign: E vii R ELTHAM POLICE STATION HEIDELBERG DISTRICT Edward VII ascended the throne in 1901 and died 6 May 1910. He was succeeded by George V.Heather Cone was the daughter of Constable John Thomas Cone (Badge 3935) the local police officer in residence at Eltham, 1 May 1911 to 9 July 1922. Heather McKnight Jenkins (nee Cone) was born 1911, possibly at the Eltham Police Residence and spent her childhood growing up in the Police Residence. Heather was the daughter of John Thomas Cone, Police Constable, and Charlotte Helena Cone (nee Black) who had married in 1906. Constable Cone was transferred to Eltham Police Station from Lauriston (near Kyneton) in May 1911. He retired from the force around September 1922 most likely as a result of significant health concerns experienced earlier that year from 22 April when he was hospitalised. He died 5 October 1922 at Maria Street at age 60 leaving behind a widow and two daughters; his son having pre-deceased him as a result of effects of the war. He is buried in Melbourne General Cemetery . In his probate it states that he owned a piece of land 200 links frontage to Maria Street and a depth of 241 links. It is believed that this is the land opposite the Police Station which Heather Jenkins referred to as being owned by her father and where he agisted the Police horses. Heather, her sister and mother Charlotte remained in Eltham until at least the 1924 Electoral Roll where Charlotte was listed as Home Duties however by 1925 she was listed at 229 Glenferrie Road, Malvern, occupation, Registrar of Births. In the 1934 (and 1936) Electoral Roll, Heather was a Clerk and her mother Charlotte was the Registrar of Births. in 1952 following her mother’s death she made application for Grant of Probate. Heather remains listed in the 1954 Electoral Roll at 13 Ashburton Road under her maiden name Cone however by the 1963 Electoral Roll she is listed at the same address as Heather McKnight Jenkins long with James Gardiner Jenkins. Neither appear listed in the 1958 Electoral Roll. James Gardiner Jenkins (1892-1975) first wife was Fanny Davison Carrucan (1899-1929), daughter of Denis Carrucan and Jane (nee McAleese). They married in 1925. Fanny died 11 November 1929. In the 1934 Electoral Roll he remained listed at John Street, Eltham, Railway Employee however by 1935 Electoral Roll, James Gardiner Jenkins, Railway Employee, was listed at 229 Glenferrie Road, Malvern and he remained living with Charlotte and Heather Cone when they moved to 13 Ashburton Road, Glen Iris. One of Constable Cone’s first investigations upon arriving in Eltham was the accidental fatal shooting in the head with a pea rifle by young Francis August Capewell, aged 11, of John Sutcliffe Deegan, 14, in Maria Street near the Railway. Constable Cone’s replacement was Constable William Charles Sargeant who commenced in charge of the Eltham Police Station from Thursday, 10 August 1922. Constable William Charles Sargeant, and his wife Elizabeth Agnes Sargeant were based at the Eltham Police Station until his transfer to the Police Station in Burwood Road, Hawthorn. He retired at Hawthorn Police Station in 1931, described by Hawthorn Council in 1927 as in a disgraceful condition and unfit for human habitation (Kathryn Griffin family tree – Ancestry) whereupon they moved to 28 Saunders Street, Coburg. Elizabeth died 16 July 1936 in Fitzroy. William then moved to 6 Queen Street Coburg in 1936 and then 1 Queen Street in 1942 where he died 7 August 1944. He is buried at Fawkner Cemetery.Sepia postcard photo glued on a brown paper scrapbook page (torn from scrapbook) along with 8 other black and white/sepia photos of varying sizes, 1 newspaper clipping and handwritten captions in ink.brougham street, constable w.c. sargeant, courthouse, cow, eltham, knapmans forge, little eltham, local history centre, main road, maria street, police residence, police station, policeman's hill, scrapbook, w.b. andrew corn store, j.h. clark photo, andrews store, heather jenkins (nee cone), clark bros. photo

Shows Mrs J. Brown, one of her four daughtrers and her two sons who died in World War One with their dog posing in front of fence of Headmaster's house, at Eltham State School, Dalton Street. Date circa 1902. The building still stands. Reproduced p66 of Pioneers & Painters Mrs Jane Elizabeth Brown (nee Staines) and three children of her large family who left the Headmaster's residence when John Brown (Headmaster 1889-1906) died (on the job) in 1906. John and Jane had ten children eight girls and two boys. Their two sons both died in the 1914-1918 War; George Stewart Brown (1885-1916) and John Leonard Brown (1887-1918). The young girl may be Elsie Maria Brown (1889-1917) which would date the photo around 1902. Wall Bros operated at St Kilda from around 1889 to 1903. John Brown died 23 Sept 1906 after a short severe illness at age 55 and is buried in Box Hill Cemetery (Evelyn Observer 28 Sep 1906 p2). The book "We did open a school in Little Eltham" incorrectly states his date of death as 16/12/1906. Title The Evelyn Observer. (1906, September 28). Evelyn Observer and Bourke East Record (Vic. : 1902 - 1917), p. 2 (MORNING.) Url http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article61129880 Description It is with sincere regret we record the death of Mr. John Brown, State school teacher, Eltham, which sad event took place at his residence, "Pine Brae," on Sunday night last, 23rd inst. after a severe illness of some few weeks' duration. The deceased gentleman was highly respected, and always took a lively and active interest in promoting the progress and prosperity of the district, and his loss will be much felt, He was only 55 years of age, and leaves a wife and large family to mourn their loss, and much sympathy is felt for them. The remains of the deceased were interred in the Box Hill cemetery on Wednesday afternoon last. This photo forms part of a collection of photographs gathered by the Shire of Eltham for their centenary project book,"Pioneers and Painters: 100 years of the Shire of Eltham" by Alan Marshall (1971). The collection of over 500 images is held in partnership between Eltham District Historical Society and Yarra Plenty Regional Library (Eltham Library) and is now formally known as 'The Shire of Eltham Pioneers Photograph Collection.' It is significant in being the first community sourced collection representing the places and people of the Shire's first one hundred years.Digital image 4 x 5 inch B&W Neg Sepia photo B&W printSepia photo reverse: Miss Tonkinson Used Pioneers and Painters p66 Could be Miss Brown and part of her family who left the Headmaster's residence when John Brown (Headmaster 1889-1906) died (on the job) in 1906. Then 2 sons both died in the 1914-1918 War Between 1888 and prior to 1906. Also Wall Bros. St Kilda stamp B&W print: 66 and 9 7/16" x 5 5/8" deep (for publication on p66 of Pioneers & Painters)sepp, shire of eltham pioneers photograph collection, state school residence, eltham state school, state school no. 209, dalton street, eltham primary school, teacher residence, eltham, headmaster, houses, main road, pioneers and painters, school, school residence, schools, george stewart brown (1885-1916), elsie maria brown (1889-1917), john leonard brown (1887-1918), jane elizabeth brown (nee staines)

BENWERRIN COAL COMPANY SKIP This quarter ton coal truck or skip was used at a small mine situated at Benwerrin near Deans Marsh in Victoria’s Otway Ranges. The mine first opened in 1899 and closed in 1904. With the fuel shortages due to World War 2, the Benwerrin Coal Company reopened the mine in 1941. The coal was loaded into skips and winched out of Box’s Creek valley on a narrow gauge incline to a loading point that was close to the Deans Marsh-Lorne Road. It was then taken by road to the Deans Marsh Railway station. The average gradient of the tramway was 1 in 4 over a length of just under 500 metres (1600 feet). The gauge of the tramway has often been referred to as 375mm (or 15 inches) as shown on the map opposite taken from “Sawdust and Steam”. However, actual measurements of the wheels show the gauge to be 400mm (or 16 inches), which is quite unusual as is the small size of the skip itself. The mine produced up to 30 tonnes of brown coal each week until it closed in 1949 and the incline tramway and its skips were abandoned. Preservation of this coal truck came as a result of interest by the Tramway Museum Society of Victoria (TMSV) in the Barlow or Box type rails that it ran on. These rails had originally come from the Beaumaris Horse Tramway and were obtained by the Benwerrin Coal Company from Hayden Bros’ abandoned timber tramway at nearby Barwon Downs. Members of the TMSV visited the mine in the 1960s only to find that most of the tramway had recently been recovered for scrap. There remained a significant number of relics around the mine adits including most of the skips. One of these remained in good condition and it was recovered for preservation in May 1967. It was restored but never displayed and a second restoration took place by the author over 2012/13 so that it could be placed in the Menzies Creek Museum where it was delivered in February 2013. Little remains of the mine today with trestles and sleepers destroyed in the “Ash Wednesday” Bushfires in 1983. References: Houghton, N (1975), Sawdust and Steam, Light Railway Research Society of Australia. Historic - Industrial Narrow Gauge Railway - Benwerrin Coal Company , Benwerrin , Victoria, AustraliaCoal Skip - made of Iron sheet and wrought iron frame & wheelsB,C.Co Melbournepuffing billy, coal skip, benwerrin coal company, narrow gauge

Extract from The Spectator of June 12, 1946: "From the Queensland 'Methodist Times'. Dreams do come true. At any rate, that is what the Rev. Cliff Lanham believes, who after the lapse of several years finds that his early dream of a Flying Patrol for the Inland is now an actuality. The Methodist Inland Mission Board has purchased from the Disposals Commission of the R.A.A.F. a De Haviland Fox Moth Biplane. Indeed, two machines have been bought, but one will be broken up for spare parts. This 'new angel of the air' is fitted with a 130 h.p. engine and possesses a cruising speed of 100 miles per hour. The petrol consumption is only that of a big six-cylinder car—18 miles per gallon. In addition to the pilot there is room for three passengers, and a stretcher is installed whereby urgent cases of sickness or accident can be flown to the nearest hospital. In this machine, Mr Lanham proposes to cover the whole of S. W. Queensland and a portion of the Northern Territory from his headquarters at Mt Isa. It takes little imagination to realise what a boon the 'flying parson' will be to those of the great outback." …. "Before [Mr Lanham] inaugurated the scheme [the idea of a flying parson] he spent his first furlough from inland mission work (and incidentally £60) learning to fly. 'In a month,' he says whimsically, 'I was a pilot of sorts.' Mr Lanham is a son of the Church. His parents were staunch Methodists, and their home offered generous hospitality to mininsters and preachers. His brother, the Rev. Percy Lanham, M.A., died in Libya when on active service as a chaplain. His widowed mother must be proud of her tall, stalwart son, whom the Church now sends forth on his flying mission for the Lord. May he ever be wafted through inland skies on two wings and a prayer." It is of interest to note that although Cliff Lanham's brother, Percy, is listed in the Methodist Church of Australasia's Ministerial Index (9th Edition, Revised to 1961) Cliff Lanham himself is not listed as either active or deceased.Three B&W identical photographs of Lanham standing next to a Methodist Inland Mission bi-plane. Lanham and an unidentified man are holding a stretcher between them with a boy of about 10-11 on it. They seem to be exiting the plane. The original photograph F69-1 is a 110x65 mm Kodak print; the other two are 195x145 mm enlargements. Lanham is wearing a white shirt and grey trousers, the other person is wearing a safari helmet.All three photos identify "Rev. Cliff Lanham" on the back. They seem to have been originally used or intended for use by The Spectator.lanham, cliff, queensland, methodist inland mission, flying parson

Premier 23rd January 1893 – 27th September 1894. Born in Alnwick, England, Sir James Patterson (1833-1895) migrated to Victoria in 1852 to try his luck on the goldfields. After little success he turned his hand to farming, and later operated a slaughter yard at Chewton. Patterson served on the Chewton local council, being elected mayor four times before moving with his wife Anna and family to Melbourne in 1870. Patterson established a real estate business, and after two unsuccessful attempts to enter parliament in 1866 and 1868, he won the by election for Castlemaine in the Legislative Assembly in December 1870. He would hold this seat until his death 25 years later. Patterson served in Sir Graham Berry’s brief August to October 1875 government as Commissioner of Public Works and Vice-President of Board and Land Works. He repeated these roles two years later in Berry’s second government and additionally served as Postmaster-General, and in Berry’s third government was Commissioner of Railways and again Vice-President of the Board of Land and Works. In April 1889 after a time in Opposition, Patterson became Commissioner for Trade and Customs in Duncan Gillies’ Government. The following year he returned to the familiar positions of Public Works, Board of Land and Words and Postmaster-General. By 1891 Patterson was leader of the opposition, and when William Shiels’ government succumbed to a motion of no confidence, led by Patterson, he became premier on the 23rd of January 1893. During his premiership, James Patterson was also Chief Secretary and Minister for Railways. His term as premier coincided with a period of severe economic depression, and his enforced economies earned Patterson few public admirers. In May 1893 his government attempted to prevent a run on bank withdrawals and stabilise the sector, by declaring a 5 day 'bank holiday'. Patterson was awarded a knighthood in May 1894, however this did not increase public confidence in his government who were not returned to power in the August 1894 election. Again leader of the opposition, James Patterson died suddenly of influenza on the 30 of October 1895.This portrait was presented to Sir James Patterson by 'grateful citizens of Victoria' in appreciation of his services during the land boom depression. In 1929 the painting was donated to the Victorian Parliamentary Library by H. Lavinia Patterson, the wife of Sir James Patterson's nephew Colonel George Patterson.Oil on canvas, framed. Frame: ornate wood, gesso mouldings, unglazed. Signed on bottom right corner "G. Coutts" Stamped inscription along inner edge of canvas: "WINSOR AND NEWTON". Inscription on canvas, handwritten in ink: "13 1 92" from reverse.patterson, james brown (1833-1895)

This pair of milk bottles, produced for the Model Dairy in Cotham Road, Kew, were donated by Vik Sabaliauskas. They belonged to his father who worked at Model Dairy in the 1950s and 1960s. Vik wrote about his father: "As for my father, his whole life story is interesting. He was part of the big immigration program after WW2. He was a displaced person in Germany like lots of others who came out looking for a new life. Our family name is actually SABALIAUSKAS which is of Lithuanian descent. My Dad was also named Vik (Viktoras). He was known as Big Vik and I was little Vik. He arrived in Australia in 1947 and then did his 2 years of work organised by the Government and then he came to Melbourne. We lived in Tyler St Preston and he rode his pushbike to and from Kew every working day for years. In my estimation that was about 13 kms for about 6 or 7 years. Imagine that happening today. Freezing Winter mornings and hot Summer afternoons. His English was poor but he had a great work ethic like all European immigrants. His duties related to maintaining and operating all the machines. One story that he told me about was that after I was born (in 1959) he made friends with one of the drivers who delivered milk to the dairy. He asked him to get a container of milk from the farmer everyday which was just for me. I remember going to the Model Dairy Family Christmas parties which were always well patronised. I also remember visiting him in the PANCH Hospital (Bell Street Preston) where he was treated for kidney stones caused by drinking very creamy milk. He wasn't happy when he was told by the doctor to cut back on milk. My Dad was one month short of his 95th birthday when he died and he lived a pretty healthy life." (2019)Kew was a major milk producing district in the Nineteenth and early Twentieth centuries, with three major dairy farms lining the Yarra between Studley Park in the west and Burke Road in the east. In addition to these dairy producers, there were also a number of accredited dairy retailers in the suburb. The largest and most enduring of these was the Model Dairy founded by the Kew pioneer James Venn Morgan. Milk bottles that include the name of the producer or retailer are historically significant as they represent a period in Kew's history before the mass production of milk in the second half of the Twentieth Century. A number of these named bottles have the additional attribute of rarity.Pair of plastic milk bottles, designated on the front as to be used in the refigerator on on picnics. One bottle has a red screw on lid and the other a green lid. The bottles are semi-transparent. [The record also includes a photograph of Vic Sabaliauskas, provided by his son. The photograph dates from the period when he was employed at the Model Dairy].Impressed on the front of both bottles: "Unbreakable picnic and refrigerator bottle made expressly for Model Dairy Pty Ltd Cotham Rd Kew"dairies - kew, model dairy - cotham road - kew (vic)

This swimsuit belonged to Brighton local Joyce Fuller, nee Harries (1920-2018), who wore it at Dendy Beach in the 1950s. Ada of California was a Melbourne swimwear company founded in the early 1950s by Brighton locals Ada and Toni Murkies. Born in Poland in 1922, Ada was 17 when the Second World War reached her doorstep. She and her family were torn from their home by Soviet soldiers and sent to a brutal labour camp in Siberia as part of a series of mass deportations. In order to escape the horrific conditions of the camp, Ada and her sister Barbara joined the Soviet-backed Polish Army. During her time in the military she became close with a handsome young Jewish officer, Lieutenant Antoni Murkies, who later became her husband. After the war Toni was awarded 15 medals including the highest Polish military honour, the Virtuti Militari. Ada was awarded 10 medals, including the Order of the Cross of Grunwald. Emigrating to Australia as postwar refugees in 1948, Ada and Toni arrived in Melbourne with little to their name. Working initially in garment factories and building their connections, by the mid-1950s the couple were able to start a company of their own, with Ada designing the garments and Toni managing the business. Within ten years, Ada of California swimwear was being sold in department stores throughout Australia, and the Murkies family were able to build a permanent home of their own in Brighton. By the early 1980s they had acquired several other major labels, including Watersun. Visiting Brighton Historical Society in 2019, Ada recalled this particular swimsuit style to be a popular one, particularly with older women, as the cinched waist and pleated modesty skirt suited many body types. This was important to her, as she wanted women of all ages and sizes to look and feel good in her swimwear, and she devoted much time and attention to the fit and finish of the garments. When the company began introducing padded bras, such as the one in this swimsuit, Ada insisted on using lacy floral lining and a small ribbon rosette in the centre gore, to give women a sense of quality, femininity and care in construction.Blue one-piece swimsuit with waist tie and short finely pleated overskirt. Sleeveless with thin elasticised straps. Inbuilt padded underwire bra with label and pale pink ribbon rosette on centre gore. Fastens with back zip.Label: "Ada / OF CALIFORNIA / 38"swimwear, brighton, dendy street beach, ada of california, ada murkies, toni murkies, joyce fuller, joyce harries

School Council, Members of Staff, Magazine Committee, List of Full Course Students 1938, Full Course Commercial Students, Editorial, Personal Column, Obituary - Roy S. Hall - F. J. Martell, S.M.B Old Boys' Association, The Literary Society, Centenary Jottings, Fumes from the Lab, Broken Hill, News from Papua, Sidelights on the B.H.P. Cadet Training Scheme, Arts & Crafts Gossip, Sport, Commercial Notes, The Junior Techs, Junior Technical SportingBlack soft covered magazine with yellow font, green and white images. 64 pages including advertisements. Artworks * Lino cut - By Maureen McRae * Lino Cut - By B. Delima * Lino Cut - By Bessie Martin * The dog you's like to kick - By Gordon Yorke * Harry - By Ernest Gribble * Digger - By Ernest Gribble * Lino cut - By Gordon Yorke * Our little girl - By Dorothy Woolcock * Miss W - By Ernest Gribble * Joan - By Ernest Gribble * Roma - By Gladys Bilney * Doing art for t'arts sake - By Gilda Gude * Una - By Dorothy Woolcock * My Bill - By Dorothy Woolcock * The Sec. - By Ernest Gribble * Hassell - By Dorothy Woolcock * Chief Engineer - By Dorothy Woolcock * Rusty - By Ernest Gribble * Lino Cut - By Jeff Wilkinson * Dick - By Dorothy Woolcock * Goosey - By Ernest Gribble * Pen Drawing - By Dorothy Woolcock * Parking 1 - By Max Coward * Miss King - By Dorothy Woolcock * Goal Umpire - By Ernest Gribble * To Prep Girls - Joe - By Ernest Gribble * Dreamy Dolan - By Ernest Gribble * Lino Cut - By Max Coward * Norma - By Dorothy Woolcock * Lino Cut - By A. Janetski * Dorothy - By Patsy Walsh * Jean - By Dorothy Woolcock * Lino Cut - By Joy Martin * Lino Cut - By Max Coward and A.2., * Ben - By Bob McHutchison * Polly - By Ernest Gribble * Dobber - By Ernest Gribble * Francies - By Ernest Gribble * Ad a line not a bite - By Dorothy Woolcock * Dulcie - By Dorothy Woolcock * Joan - By Ernest Gribble * Kitty - By Bob McHutchison * Stumpy - By Elva Brimacombe * Pegleg - By Dorothy Woolcock * Fat - By Gladys Bilney * Dawn - By Dorothy Woolcock * Joy - By Ernest Gribble * Nipper - By Ernest Gribble * Mac - By Ernest Gribble * Puss - By Bob McHutchison * Tinted Lino Cut - By W. Edward * Lino Cut by G.Day ballarat school of mines, magazine, maureen mcrae, b. delima, j. woolcock, herbert j. trevenan, n. palmer, olwyn williams, gordon yorke, bob mchutchinson, w. edward, keith heriot, sylvia wyres, jeff wilkinson, peter richards, d. gordon, f. morris, mr proctor, ernest gribble, dr. j. r. pound, muriel boyd, george downing, roy s. hall, f. j. martell, d. v. shore, ken wilkie, eoin macdonald, g. berriman, dorothy woolcock, russell h. s. ewins, v. e. greenhalgh, max coward, shelia moss, frank t. jelbart, neil crouch, graham white, mr cornell, francis hollioke, k. vaughan, david j. jelbart, arthur g. veale, bill walters, richard menhennett, james redford, w. monteith, mr hillman, john t. graham, james w. thomas, keith. walter, james m. martin, lyle s. dimsey, jean birch, margaret turner, lesley stapleton, marjorie day, una kersey, jean lonie, coral robertson, norma rowe, jean bridges, jean cox, a. janetski, d. ditchfield, j. harrison, gladys james, j. brimacombe, sheila moss, r. mathews, joy martin, joan ellsworth, e. salter, a. spence, m. may, f. coulson, i. clow, h. tonkin, l. taylor, s. harris, k. gingell, g. jones, william t. paterson, f. harland, w. harrison, j. pike, a. mcmillan, m. lee, e. mccann, j. harris, a. clack, f. osborne, e. stephens, s. nicol, d. eltringham, j. hosie, v. burt, w. rowe, wm. c. edward, j. donald, m. cox, n. dalton, gladys bilney, gilda gude, patsy walsh, elva brimacombe, g. day, francis hollyoake, centenary, betty brown, alan nye, victor greenhalgh, alan gilpin, george edward, e.h. schache, john dulfer, max bayley, eric rumpff, henry kum yuen, fred j. martell, old boys' association, literary society, j.a. wilkie, cyril callister, g. yorke, broken hill, papua, e. macdonald, j. wilkinson, bhp cadet training scheme, g.r. crouch, salt lake city, utah, photography, photographic class, r.h.e. ewins, f. jelbart, n. crouch, g. white, f. hollioake, p. richards, d. jelbart, a. veale, w. walters, e. gribble, r. mchutchison, r. menhennett, i. redford, k. heriot, j. graham, j. thomas, r. ewins, k. waller, j. martin, j. king, bena lamb, j. birch, m. turner, l. stapleton, m. day, u. kersey, j. lonie, c. robertson, n. rowe, j. bridges, m. mcrae, o. williams, j. cox, g. james, s. moss, b. martin, junior technical school old boys' association, des marks, cornell's little liver pills, ballarat wattle tea rooms, the modern dairy

Photocopy of a published page, marked as Eightieth Anniversary, relating to records as showing Golden Square as the first place in the Bendigo area at which the gospel was preached. On arriving from South Australia in 1852, attracted by the news of gold in the area James Jeffrey widely known later as Jimmy Jeffrey, a preacher who noticed that the sanctity of the Sabbath was being ignored, with normal chores and entertainment being the order of everyday. In short, little regard was shown for religion and there were no ministers. With a tree stump as his pulpit Jimmy began service by singing a Methodist hymn heartily, attracting a band of diggers to listen, with continuous services in Golden Square taking place ever since. Jeffrey continued with similar activities with increasing interest and attendances. Beginning with a tent surrounded by a fence a disused shed was bought and relocated to the site and was the finest building in the district. Late in 1852 the first real Church was erected in place of the shed and the tent. Enthusiasm and numbers of attendees swelled and in 1859 Reverend Joseph Dare and Robert Lisle and other church leaders purchased land (for 30 pounds) and had the foundation stone for a new Church building was laid by Reverend Daniel J.Draper on19th of April 1859 with Divine Service and Public Worship conducted from 11th December that year by Reverend Mr Draper. A collection on the day raised 262 pounds. The foundation stone for the present Church was financed by Richard Allingham laid on 5th January 1870. The first minister who went to the district was Reverend Mr Symonds who was stationed at Forest Creek near Castlemaine. Reverend Richard Hart was the first minister stationed at Golden Square. Embedded in the article is an image of Jimmy and Mrs Jeffrey. On the reverse of the article is a copy of a drawing by Reverend Aswel Aptel circa 1853.fra margolden square methodist church, wesleyan church, mamouney, church, richard allingham reverends jimmy jeffrey, william robert lisle robert draper, william taylor, symonds, j dare, chapman, hilson t raston, richard hart, wm shaw. g a pethard, robert saunders. reverse side a sketch of the church circa 1853 by aswel aptel. james cox (sec) mrs foot (teacher).

Trudi HARLEY Born Korumburra, Victoria Born in country Victoria Trudi Harley graduated with a Bachelor of Education (Art and Craft) at Victoria College, Burwood. After teaching for 10 years in both Government and Independent schools in Melbourne she worked as a Sales Executive and Art Educator for Cavalier Art Supplies for 16 years. Recently Trudi Harley completed a Bachelor of Arts (Visual Arts) (Honours) with Distinction between 2008 – 2009, and a Master of Arts (Research), Visual Art between 2010 – 2012 at the University of Ballarat (now Federation University). Maintaining an artistic practice while in a business partnership Trudi Harley owns and runs Atelier Art Supplies in Williamstown, Victoria, which is a major supporter of the arts in the western suburbs of Melbourne/ This item is part of the Federation University Art Collection. The Art Collection features over 2000 works and was listed as a 'Ballarat Treasure' in 2007.Artist's Statement: As an artist am continually drawn to ‘what makes us who we are’ and as a result the work, whatever it may be, is a reflection on what makes me who I am. In this I refer to perception, experience and memory as aspects that contribute to our sense of reality. By using these references I intend to engage the audience and develop a sense of connection and community through the visual image. ‘Fallen’ was not necessarily a reflection on my own life but of life in general as I recall at the time I had a family member who was struggling to cope with their own reality. I can also recall at the time reflecting on the adage ‘walk a mile in my shoes’ and the pressures we all face in life. Added to this were my own influences of upbringing, I have always been particularly drawn to fabrics and patterns as my mother was/is (getting a little old now) a seamstress and my father was a bit of a ‘perfectionist’. During my honours study I came across the term ‘Esperpento’ which included such visual elements as exaggeration and unusual viewpoints. Fallen was a comment on the psychology associated with expectations in life, or more importantly those expectations placed on offspring by their parents. This painting reflected the consequences of not living up to those expectations. It is unfortunate that in life, by the time you get to the point of realising that you have the opportunity to set your own standards, that you’ve probably embodied a great many set of values by osmosis and that you’ve now claimed them as your own. The view is from above to dramatize the subject, the figure placed compositionally in the top right hand corner to open up the picture plane and allow for the narrative to continue outside the visual area of the canvas. It was also in this painting that I rubbed back some of the darker oil paint to allow the lighter underpainting to show through.art, artwork, trudi harley, harley, carpet, portrait, self-portrait, alumni

Handwritten notes where poppet legs and engines were taken. New Chum Goldfields - To Golden Fleece. To Deborah. To Central Deb. Carlisle Poppet Heads - to Guilford Plateau, then to Nell Gwynne Reefs. Williams United Engine (Sq Con Reds) - To Ulster then North Blue, then Nth Deborah. Central Blue Engine, with Corliss valves, to Deborah. Windmill Hill Legs to Sebastian, then to Deborah. Big Blue Legs - to Central Deborah. (Legs) South Moon to South Virginia. (Engine) Sth Moon to South Virginia, & driver put on side of drums. Fortuna Hustlers Engine - to ? ?, then to Bird's Reef, then to Herc No 1. Then to Nth Virginia. New Oswald (Malson) Engine left at Sth Moon, not allowed to put in, as it was a loose eccentric. Unity Legs - to Herc. No 1. Then to Ironbark. Ironbark Engine - To Wattle Gully. (Converted to electric winder). 222 - Several Compressors. The fire at the Unity mine in 1907. The fire at the Garden Gully mine in 1911. The fire at the Princess Dagmar in 1913. The light on the Ellenborough flagpole. Tambour Major. Joe Sheard in diving suit. Lansell's Little 180 - Vertical engine. Driver to right side and at floor level. Lansell's bit 180 - Vertical engine. Driver on top of engine. Floor between. Lansell's Needle. - Wooden legs with crossstays reaching from top of legs to close to bottom. Winder - Single Link engine. Hard to get drivers. Confidence Extended. Koch's Pioneer. - Shaft a big angle. Central Blue - Old Sheepshead - same. Vict Catherine - Winder - one drum in front of other, shaft at such an angle. Very hard to see which cage or tank at surface. Specimen Hill and Carlisle - Back-handed first motion engines. Central Nell - Winder from Lord Nelson mine, St Arnaud - Driver behind drums. Turned valve opp. To usual to turn steam on and off.document, gold, poppet legs and engines, shifting about - poppet legs and engines, new chum goldfields, golden fleece, deborah, central deborah, carlisle, guilford plateau, nell gwynne reefs, williams united, ulster, north blue, nth deborah, central blue, windmill hill, sebastian, big blue, south moon, south virginia, fortuna hustlers, tambour major, bird's reef, herc no 1, nth virginia, new oswald (maldon), unity, ironbark, wattle gully, 222, garden gully, princess dagmar, ellenborough, joe sheard, lansell's little 180, lansell's big 180, lansell's needle, confidence extended, koch's pioneer, central blue, old sheepshead, vict catherine, specimen hill, carlisle, central nell, lord nelson mine (st arnaud)