C.E Barrie was the Urban brigade's first captain. November 19, 1975, Page 2 OBITUARY Ex-Captain C E BARRIE Over 50 firemen attended the funeral of Ex- Captain Edgar Barrie of Melton Fire Brigade who died at the age of 62 on Thursday 16th October, 1975. Edgar was a volunteer fireman for 33 years, all of this service with the Melton Rural and Urban Fire Brigades. He joined the rural brigade in February 1942 was Secretary 1942 until 1965 when he became Captain as position he held until 1973. He was the urban brigade’s first Captain when it was formed in 1970 and held this position until 1971. The fire service runs in the Barrie family, brother Bon was Captain of the rural brigade from 1953 to 1965 relinquishing the position to become Group Officer of the Mt Cottrell Group, a position he still holds. Another brother Tom has been a member since 1941, nephew Peter has been a member since 1962 and Edgar’s son Vivian has been a member since 1971. Firemen, led by Snr. A/C/O Max Taylor, A/C/O Harry Rothsay, R/O Arthur Haynes and retired R/O Jim Dinsdale formed a guard of honour at the church and cemetery. A/C/O Rothsay read the Fireman’s Funeral Ritual at the graveside. Edgar who was a farmer, leaves a wife and four children. Sympathy is extended to them in their loss. Six members from the Melton Urban Brigade including Captain C.E Barrie, Secretary Dale Blampied, Lieutenant Steve Hirt, Apparatus Officer Graham Quick and Foreman Barry Sherwell.local identities, emergency services

A pack saddle is designed to be secured on the back of a horse so it can carry heavy loads. It would rest on a saddle blanket or pad to spead the the weight of the saddle. The underside of the saddle is curved to fit the shape of the animal's back. It would be symmetrically divided by a gap at the top to ensure it does not rest on the animals' backbone and to provide ventilation. This saddle was possible owned by the Forestry Department for use by fire spotters.Horses played a vital role in the agricultural and transport history of Orbost. This item is connected to that role.A large brown leather pack saddle. The underside is curved to conform to the shape of the horse's back. It is divided into two parts for weight distribution. The upper side is like a rack for the load to rest on and for it to be tied down.saddle pack-saddle equestrian

This container is a piece of trench art. It has been made in 1917 in World War One. The container is made from a 4.5 inches Howitzer shell. The 4.5 Howitzers were British artillery units made with a short barrel and used to fire missiles over a high trajectory. It is probable that the container was made by an Australian soldier while on active service overseas during World War One. This container has no known local provenance but it is a very interesting and attractive piece of World War One trench art. This is a heavy brass container made from a Howitzer shell. The container is round with four-leaf clover –type patterns on the side and three round knobs welded on to the bottom to give it a base. There are many markings on the base of the shell and these may all be the original markings. The lid is made of lighter brass and has an octagonal-shaped knob on top. ‘4.5 Howr 11’ ‘B.A. 3 3 17’ ‘1917’ M.A.C.’ etc world war one, warrnambool

This building opened on 19 October 1874. The front section of this building including 8 classrooms, the headmaster's office and the bell tower were destroyed by fire 27 February 1890. "The burnt section of the school was rebuilt along the lines of the original building and today the red brick facade and bell tower are a feature of the Hare Strett skyline" (Echuca Stetchbook, Blyth, I, 1978, p.32.Henry Hopwood, founder of Echuca, saw the need to establish a national school to educate the children of Echuca. The first National School opened in October 1858 in a framed tent. Construction of the first brick school house began in 1859 on the site of the original Post Office in Hare street. Later the site changed to the southern end of Hare street and this building was opened 19 October 1874. The school stayed here until a new school was built on the old Echuca Technical School site.Colour photograph (post-card size) of Echuca Primary School, 208, showing the eastern facade including the bell tower, taken from the eastern side of High street. Printed on the reverse:"this paper manufactured by Kodak"echuca-primary schools, echuca-historical buildings

Reproduced on p40 of 'Pioneers & Painters' Mr Robert Harris (centre) was associated with the paper for forty-seven years. The Printing office of the 'Evelyn Observer' at Kangaroo Ground operated from about 1872 until it became the 'Advertiser' and moved to Hurstbridge during the 1914-1918 war. The building was then used as Shire Office, later destroyed by fire 8 Feb. 1934. Source: Mrs. McMinn, KinglakeThis photo forms part of a collection of photographs gathered by the Shire of Eltham for their centenary project book,"Pioneers and Painters: 100 years of the Shire of Eltham" by Alan Marshall (1971). The collection of over 500 images is held in partnership between Eltham District Historical Society and Yarra Plenty Regional Library (Eltham Library) and is now formally known as the 'The Shire of Eltham Pioneers Photograph Collection.' It is significant in being the first community sourced collection representing the places and people of the Shire's first one hundred years.Digital imageevelyn observer, james foggie, john edward greenaway, kangaroo ground, newspapers, pioneers and painters, printing, r.c harris, sepp, shire of eltham pioneers photograph collection

The iconic Eltham Barrel restaurant operated in Eltham from the late 1960s to its demise in a fire in 1989. This piece of timber - itself recycled from elsewhere (possibly the Clivedon mansion) in the construction of the Barrel had the words "Eltham Barrel" burned into the timber. It formed part of the welcome to visitors on the high external covered portico entrance. This large timber beam was saved and used in the construction of a house in Eltham.Three colour photographstimber beam, eltham barrel

The iconic Eltham Barrel restaurant operated in Eltham from the late 1960s to its demise in a fire in 1989. This piece of timber - itself recycled from elsewhere (possibly the Clivedon mansion) in the construction of the Barrel had the words "Eltham Barrel" burned into the timber. It formed part of the welcome to visitors on the high external covered portico entrance. This large timber beam was saved and used in the construction of a house in Eltham.Three colour photographstimber beam, eltham barrel

One of a set of display images thought to be produced by the Shire of Eltham c.1979-1987. Women and children are gathered in small courtyard area, backing on to a bush area, around a small open fireplace with bricks and a grate, with a small fire burning. The grates hold large containers with steam steam rising out of them. BBQ Gathering at either Eltham or Panton Hill Living and Learning Centre.Illustrative of services provided by former Shire of ElthamColour photograph 20 x 29 cm mounted on green-painted chipboard 28 x 35.5 cm (string on back for hanging)Title printed on label adhered to board below photograph (replaced June 2017)bbq, living and learning centre, cooking

The iconic Eltham Barrel restaurant operated in Eltham from the late 1960s to its demise in a fire in 1989. This piece of timber - itself recycled from elsewhere (possibly the Clivedon mansion) in the construction of the Barrel had the words "Eltham Barrel" burned into the timber. It formed part of the welcome to visitors on the high external covered portico entrance. This large timber beam was saved and used in the construction of a house in Eltham.Three colour photographstimber beam, eltham barrel

Showing the participates of the Discipline March at the State Championships held at Swanhill in 1974. All the marchers were members of the Wangaratta Urban Fire Brigade. Steven Brown is the son of Les Brown. Les Brown passed away in 2011. Peter Graham and Tom Philp went on to be long serving members of the Brigade. John Briese also was a long serving member who moved to Melbourne around 1995. A black and white photograph of the Marching Team at Swanhill Championships 1974.Left to Right: Ian Moscrop, Tom Philp, John Spence, Peter Graham, Steven Brown, Les Brown, John Plecter, G Robinson, Bill Forge. Leader: John Briese Swanhill 1974photograph, marching team, swanhill

Black an white photograph of auxiliary members at Ely st fire station meeting room in 1984. back row L-R: Jean Brown, Pat Briese, Pat Prendergast, Aileen Sanders, Dorothy Wise, Sharon Prentice, Annette Norley, Angela Sheetz. front row: __?__, Lyn Philp, Dianne Mills, Pat Stephens, Joan Rosser, Elaine Graham, __?__, Lorraine Grenfell.Black an white photograph of auxiliary members.auxiliary, 1984, ely st, jean brown, pat briese, pat prendergast, aileen sanders, dorothy wise, sharon prentice, annette norley, angela sheetz, lyn philp, dianne mills, pat stephens, joan rosser, elaine graham, lorraine grenfell.

This watch belonged to Alan Robert WEBSTER who was born on 11-1-1923 at Wangaratta. He enlisted in Melbourne and served with the RAAF 30 Squadron. He was killed on the 11-8-1944 when his Beaufighter A19-194 was hit by AA fire at Cape Simork, Dutch New Guinea while on a bombing mission. He is buried in the LAE Cemetery in Papua New Guinea. Gold coloured metal watch with square face and white plastic watch band.Engraved on rear of watch - ARW 409630 RAAFalan robert webster, raaf, 30 squadron, ww2, lae, png

Early Tatura photos emailed.|Hogan Street looking east from railway line, c.1910.|Flanagans Store c.1935, showing shop on corner and possibly the first fire station on N.E. corner of Ross & Hogan Streets.|Hogan Street looking west from railway line c.1910(2).|Flanagans' Store on cnr. Ross and Hogan Streets, c.1910.tatura, hogan street, flanagans store, local, history

Dugout Night is an annual event where Legatees gather and enjoy the company of fellow Legatees ("comradeship"), usually in April, close to Anzac Day. A dugout in wartime provides protection for soldiers from small arms fire, artillery bombardment and attack from the air. The sign could have been made to publicise Dugout night or most likely as a caption for photographs of the event displayed at Legacy House.Legatees supported each other by coming together for various events throughout the year. Dugout night was an annual gathering where Legatees could socialise together.White A4 poster for Dugout night.In black ink, 'Dugout Night / April 16th / Until the battery ran out ..........' Reverse side written in pencil 16/4/2008, (presumably the date of the event).comradeship, legatee event, dugout

The building was the former Sunbury Fire Station. It was in Evans Street on the site where the shopping square has been built. Mount Holden can be seen in the background. A newer building was built for the CFA on the opposite side of Evans Street and closer to Macedon Street. As the shopping centre expanded and Sunbury grew, the CFA moved from the town centre to a site in Jackson Street and another one in Elizabeth Drive.Over the years the CFA has played an important role in numerous fire fighting activities over summer months.A scanned coloured photograph with a fine white border of an old weatherboard building with a metal roof by an unmade roadway. A hill is in the background and two bare trees are growing near the building.sunbury cfa.

Report details the history of the power supply for the Victorian Railways, electric street railways or tramways. Looks at the costs, equipment purchased, operation, and construction. Compiled from original VR documents, with photos. Includes the Elwood depot fire of 1907, Covers the provision of power for Sandringham tramway. Has drawings of the main switchboard layouts, the crossing of the St Kilda - Brighton tramway by the MMTB tramways. Author unknown.Yields information about the provision of the power supply for VR Trams.Report 50 x A4 pages - photocopied from an original document. trams, railways, vr trams, sandringham, st kilda brighton electric tramway, power supply, elwood depot, elwood substation, substations

A digital copy of a colour tinted postcard of The Crossways Cabaret in Marysville from the E.J. and R.G. Anderson Family Collection. The Crossways was built in the early 1920s and is the oldest building in Marysville. The Crossways historic inn survived the 2009 Black Saturday bushfires thanks to the efforts of its co-owner Greg Cherry and, in the days after the fires, provided a much-needed refuge to the Marysville community and firefighters.A digital copy of a colour tinted postcard of The Crossways Cabaret in Marysville from the E.J. and R.G. Anderson Family Collection.marysville, victoria, australia, the crossways cabaret, the crossways, crossways, crossways country inn, crossways historic inn, 2009 black saturday bushfires, accommodation, crossways historic country inn, postcard, souvenir, ej & rg anderson family collection

The two storey building is the Royal Hotel which is sited on the corner of Brook and Evans Streets in Sunbury's main shopping strip.The photograph was taken sometime in 1939 after it was totally rebuilt. A fire had damaged the old single storey structure, which was built on the same site c1860 shortly after Sunbury had a rail service. The building still operates today on the same site.The Royal Hotel is one of four hotels that were built in Evans Street Sunbury between Brook and Station Streets ion the 1860s shortly after the rail service arrived in the town. They were They were the Railway Hotel (Olive Tree), White Horse Hotel, Royal Hotel and the Rupertswood Hotel, opposite the Royal Hotel. A non-digital black and white photograph with a cream border of a two storey brick hotel building with light concrete trimming around the windows and entrances sited on a corner. A large black sedan car is parked near the corner. royal hotel, hotels

In 1920 Michael Taffe was awarded Junior Cornet Solo Champion at Ballarat's South St competitions, The Grand National Eisteddfod of Australasia. This competition was the premier band contest in Australia with musicians from every state and New Zealand taking part. This Boosey & Co cornet was on display in the window of Allan's Music store Melbourne when the building was severely damaged by fire but these items were saved. Part of a large family collection of local & family history items at Hymettus Cottage, home to the same Ballarat family for the past 125. This cornet has a well documented provenance and a known owner and has been at Hymettus for over a century. Boosey & Co joined with Hawkes in 1930 to become Boosey & Hawkes. This cornet forms part of a significant and representative historical collection that reflects Ballarat's local history from a family perspective. It contributes to our understanding of social and family life in Ballarat from the 19th to the 21st century and provides interpretative capacity for family, local, and social history themes.Heavily decorated and inscribed.cornet, music, michael taffe, south street competitions, ballarat, boosey & co

Documents relating to various arts organizations (Bendigo based) - a. Sheet for program of a concert (no date) with performances by Main Street Singers, Bendigo Youth Choir and Bendigo Senior Secondary College Stage Band; b. (internal) listing of Arts Associated Groups in Bendigo as at Jan 1985 - 21 organizations with names/addresses; c. Phyllis Palmer Gallery exhibition calendar 2002; d. ''Arts on Fire", Vol 2, No. 5, July 1988 pub. By Old Fire Station Arts Co-Op Ltd; e. Syllabus of the Bendigo Photographic Society, 1977 (Half-Year); f. invitation to opening of exhibition of sculpture, Artizen Gallery, Bendigo Nov 2001; g. Letter for the Bendigo Shakespeare Reading and Literary Society re approach to Arts Council re awarding of a book prize, Sept 1981; h. Letter from Education Officer, Bendigo Art Gallery to All Art Teachers in relation to exhibition of ''Tribal & Traditional Textiles'', dated Feb 1979; i. Bendigo Film Group programme and News, Feb. 1979.

Items in the collection relating to ARTHUR GEORGE HOLLEY no 13556 RAN Refer cat no 2134 for his service record. The photographs are from his personal album, and are mainly official photographs widely available among the services. The photographs are from Australian , British and American sources. This set coincides with the Hobart's service around the time of the Battle of the Coral Sea, and her involvement in the Solomons and Guadalcanal landings. Whilst not taken personally, these photographs do capture some of the events Holley and his Hobart crewmates would have experienced and witnessed.Each description is preceded by an approximate date e.g.1940 06 is June 1940. 1. 1942 08 Solomons caption torpedo bombers two more on fire.jpg 2. 1942 08 Solomons high level bombers no hits Japs flew one thousand miles for this 054.jpg 3. 1942 08 Solomons caption there is no doubt this one being a Jap note marking.jpg 4. 1942 08 Solomons Dawn entering Guadalcanal Hobart Hoists battle ensign.jpg 5. 1942 08 Solomons fires started by bombing and shell fire.jpg 6. 1942 08 Solomons Fires started by gunfire and dive bombers .jpg 7. 1942 08 Solomons Guadalcanal HMS Exeter evading Japanese bombers February 1942.jpg 8. 1942 08 Solomons US Mugford hit by bomb.jpg 9. 1942 08 Solomons USS Mugford attacked by dive bombers caption shot down one bomber.jpg 10. 1942 08 Solomons USS Mugford attacked by dive bombers.jpg hmas hobart, arthur george holley ran, pacific theatre, solomons campaign, guadalcanal

Photograph of the winners of the six-men hose and reel event in Sandhurst on the 10th March 1886. There are 5 men pictured in the photograph all wearing dress uniforms and medals posing with a hand-drawn hose reel and stand pipe. Pictured from left to right: J. Scott / G. Duncan / C. Ellen / J. Anderson / F. Lloyd /. This photograph was take by James E. Bray (1832-1891).Sepia rectangular photograph printed on photographic paper and mounted on cardObverse: Winners of the six-men hose and reel event, Sandhurst, March 10th 1986 / Prize: Fifty Guinea Hose Reel/ J.E Bray Photo / J.Payne (absent) , J. Scott / G. Duncan / C. Ellen / J. Anderson / F. Lloyd / Reverse: 97.22 / 84-253-1 / BMMA3123 Members of Beechwoth Fire Brigade 1886emergency services, beechworth, sandhurst, burke museum, photograph, fire brigade, fire

Black and white photograph of firemen on cart outside brick building. (2 copies)Written on backing sheet, "Ringwood Fire Brigade New Station. 1. Sam Brown, 2. Les Jones, 3 Clarance Burns, 4. Jack Wilkins, 5. Frank King (Station Officer), 6. Dave Anderson, 7. George Burns, 8. Percy Griffen". Writing on backing sheet of second photo states photo taken in 1930s.

Newspaper Clipping from "The Mail", 16-11-1993. P 31 Our peoplePlans to rebuild Mullum Primary School which was badly damaged by fire earlier this year are under way. The Minster for Education, Don Hayward confirmed lasty week that $200,000 would be provided to the school during the 1993-1994 financial year. The Principal, Rob Bloye, said he was delighted with the concept plans discussed last week with architect John Brand.

25th anniversary FSB TownsvilleBimba Bia 33 This beer has been specially produced to commerate the 25th Anniversary of the withdrawal of Australian forces from Vietnam and to celebrate the national Reunion of Vietnam Veterans from 16th to 24th August 1997 in Townsville and will be known as "FIRE SUPPORT BASE - TOWNSVILLE". This beer is exclusively available from the Townsville RSL Club, a Gold sponsor of the Reunionbeer stubby, 25th anniversary, national reunion of vietnam veterans

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic