Arpillera are brightly colored, three-dimensional patchwork tapestries and textile pictures created predominantly by working-class women (arpilleristas). The word comes from the Spanish term for the rough burlap or hessian sacking (often made from flour, potato, or sugar sacks) used as a backing material. They feature fabric scraps, embroidery, wool, and small 3D figures like dolls. Pinochet Regime (1973–1990): They gained international fame in Chile during General Augusto Pinochet's military dictatorship. The Catholic Church Role: Organized under the protection of the Vicariate of Solidarity (Vicaría de la Solidaridad) and the Catholic Church, these workshops offered a safe space for women to process grief, share stories, and earn a vital source of income after their husbands, sons, or fathers were forcibly disappeared (los desaparecidos). A "Fabric Newspaper": Because public gatherings were banned and traditional media was heavily censored, women used these textiles to document state atrocities, poverty, soup kitchens, forced disappearances, and human rights abuses. International Smuggling: Finished pieces were secretly rolled up and smuggled out of Chile in diplomatic or traveler luggage to be sold abroad, raising global awareness and funding for the resistance movement.They tell of the maker's lives and the traumatic events experienced by these mothers, wives and sisters of the victims.This piece depicts a brightly coloured scene with a house, people and sheep in appliqué and embroidery.appliqué, creative embroidery

Purchased from a Dr. Toole, working in a Laotian refugee camp Ban-nam-yao in the north east of Thailand near Chiang Mae. Under his direction he is encouraging the refugees to make these panels for selling. Dr. Michael Toole, an eminent Australian epidemiologist and public health expert, (from the Burnet Institute in Melbourne) has dedicated his career to international public health, disaster response, and communicable disease control. • Refugee Camp Work: He extensively worked with and published research on displaced populations, war, and nutritional deficiencies in refugee camps—specifically during the Indochinese refugee crises of the late 1970s and 1980s, where hundreds of thousands of Laotians fled to camps in Thailand. • Laos Projects: He later collaborated on public health capacity-building and health initiatives directly inside Laos.appliqué in many colours with the addition of a series of borders of varying widths with a small amount of surface stitchery.embroidery, applique, surface stitchery, 1960-80, laos

Made by refugees in a camp in northern Thailand.Deep green poplin with a white geometric labyrinth design in appliqué and tiny orange running stitches between rows.embroidery, mats, applique, 1960-80, surface stitchery, laos

Made by refugees in their camps in Northern Thailand. Traditional designs and embroidery used.Reverse appliqué of concentric circles. Embroidery in red and green small triangles and white running stitches in circles. Backing of natural cotton.embroidery, applique, surface stitchery, mats, 1960-80, thailand, reverse applique

Intricate geometric and spiral textile patterns (paj ntaub) characteristic of Hmong and related South East Asian minority handicraft traditions.Small bag, multi-coloured with reverse appliqué design front (black on white), back and edged with orange cord and hot pink tassels. Top of back is fold over envelope type.embroidery, applique, reverse applique, bag

Purchased from a Dr. Toole, working in a Laotian refugee camp Ban-Nan-Yao in north eastern Thailand, near Chiang Mae. Under his direction the refugees are making these panels for funds for the camp. Dr. Michael Toole, an eminent Australian epidemiologist and public health expert, (from the Burnet Institute in Melbourne) has dedicated his career to international public health, disaster response, and communicable disease control. • Refugee Camp Work: He extensively worked with and published research on displaced populations, war, and nutritional deficiencies in refugee camps—specifically during the Indochinese refugee crises of the late 1970s and 1980s, where hundreds of thousands of Laotians fled to camps in Thailand. • Laos Projects: He later collaborated on public health capacity-building and health initiatives directly inside Laos.Central square of dark blue with white appliqué in a geometric design. Borders of yellow green, red, yellow, green and red. Inner band of red has a wide herringbone in navy tied with tiny white stitches.embroidery, applique, surface stitchery, 1960-80, laos

Made by Laotian refugees in camps in Northern Thailand. These pieces of patchwork are worked in their own traidtional way and style and are being sold for funds to help the camps.Appliqué panel. The square is made up of brown, dark blue, blue and white piecing, some reverse appliqué. Some stitching showing on back which is cream cotton.patchwork, reverse applique, 1980-2000, thailand

An Hawaiian quilt is a distinctive quilting style of the Hawaiian Islands that uses large radially symmetric applique patterns. Motifs often work stylized botanical designs in bold colours on a white background. Hawaiian quilt appliqué is made from a single cut on folded fabric. Quilting stitches normally follow the contours of the appliqué design. Hawaiian quilting derives from the kapa moe, an indigenous bed cover textile. Kapa was constructed from the inner bark of local trees. Traditional kapa was beaten and felted, then dyed in geometric patterns. Quilting may have begun in the Hawaiian islands with the arrival of missionaries and Western fabrics in the 1820s. The climate of Hawaii is unsuitable for cotton cultivation and kapa is unsuitable for quilting so all Hawaiian quilts are constructed from imported material. The earliest written reference comes from Isabella Bird who visited Hawaii in 1870 and wrote a travelogue Six Months in the Sandwich Islands.Worked by Mrs Brent Clark and daughter. An American design of the 19th century, worked and adapted from a photograph by the donor. Mrs Brent Clark was an early pupil of the Victorian Institute for the Advancement of Plain Needlework (Melbourne) and Foundation member of the EGV.Background of fine white cotton, quilted in running stitch. Appliqued design known as 'Friendship Plume" is in pink cotton, with a 3 cms scalloped border, also in pink.embroidery, applique, quilts, mid 20th century, australia, hawaiian

The Fashion & Design collection of Kew Historical Society includes examples of women’s, men’s, children’s and infants' clothing from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. While the collection includes some examples of international fashion, most items were handmade or purchased in Melbourne. White cotton apron decorated with machine embroidery and appliqué. The apron is a commercially created item produced in China for the European market. clothing - women's, aprons, fashion & design collection - kew historical society, protective wear, fashion design, fashion -- 1960s

This item is part of the Di Reidie collection. Diane Reidie was a much loved volunteer and President of Brighton Historical Society from 1999 until 2016. Originally from New Zealand, Di and her family lived in Male Street, Brighton for many years. A vibrant and energetic person with a zest for life and a gift for bringing people together, Di was a friend to many in the Bayside community and active in local community organisations. Her tireless work as President of BHS saw her named Bayside Citizen of the Year in 2008. As a seller and collector of vintage clothing, she was passionate about fashion history; one of her many enduring contributions to BHS was her extensive work in preserving, developing and promoting the Society's costume collection. In 2018-19, Di donated more than one hundred items from her personal vintage clothing collection to the Society. The collection, which includes clothing, hats, handbags and shoes from local and international designers, is representative of Di's wide-ranging interests, colourful personality, creativity, humour and love of fashion and travel. Di purchased this dress as a vintage item and wore it during the years 2010-18, before donating it to BHS. The Mooney sisters, Nell and Ida, were situated beside the Regent Theatre in Collins Street, Melbourne and were well respected milliners and dressmakers.Short sleeved peach silk dress (.1) featuring beige lace appliqué on neckline, along with original rectangular brown cardboard box (.2).Label: "MF 2900 / Misses Mooney / of Collins Street" Printed on lid of box: "Misses Mooney / 189 Collins Street, Melbourne"di reidie, vintage clothing, misses mooney, melbourne designers

The Bermali Maki (also known simply as the Maki stitch) is a distinctive, geometric hand embroidery stitch widely used in the vibrant tribal art of the Lambani (Banjara) nomadic people in India. It is traditionally combined with appliqué, mirrors, and beadwork to create elaborate, textured patterns.Turquoise linen with white cotton embroidery including shisha mirrors, chain stitch, herringbone and bermali maki stitch. Very similar to E1160 - a shisha work cape from Pakistan.fragments, pakistan, shisha work

Acquired by Guild from 2017 ExhibitionApplique on gold coloured fabric, picture of a shell collector, face and body are white fabric, trousers striped black and beige. He has a woven basket made of old Kimono fabric and tiny mother of pearl shells. Framed in black and a black mount.applique, embroidery

Given to donor by a Colombian woman.Small zipped purse with Mola applique in pink, orange, yellow, green, black, white and a few lines of chain stitch in various colours.applique, leather, colombia

Triangular shawl of ivory cotton net with a floral design in organza applied to the net.applique, shawls, 1900-20

Given to donor by a Colombian woman.Pink leather zipped purse, front has Mola applique.applique, leather, colombia

Clothing. Woman's navy striped wool crepe coat. V neckline with fabric panels to waist with appliqué piping free form pattern. Coat fastened at waist with four X 1.5 cm fabric covered buttons and fabric loops. Long straight sleeves with fold back cuffs (4 cm). A-shaped coat widens to hem. Padded shoulders.costume, female, woman 's navy striped wool crepe coat.

Clothing. Woman's black light weight wool crepe coat. Sweetheart neckline with appliquéd piping flowers on either side. Front opening fastened at waist with four X 1.5 cm fabric covered buttons and fabric loops. Long straight sleeves with appliqué piping flowers at wrist. A-shaped coat widens to hem. Unlined. Padded shoulders.costume, female, woman's black light weight coat

Applique in two shades of organdie. On one side only a central motif of a horse and rider in shades of blue, white, grey and red embroidery. Variety of stitches including buttonhole edging.embroidery, tea cosies, 1980-2000, applique

The Mola or Molas is a hand-made textile that forms part of the traditional women's clothing of the indigenous Guna people from Panama. Their clothing includes a patterned wrapped skirt (saburet), a red and yellow headscarf (musue), arm and leg beads (wini), a gold nose ring (olasu) and earrings in addition to the mola blouse (dulemor). Two groups, Choco and Guna lived side by side without intermarriage and without adopting a similar culture.In Dulegaya, the Guna's native language, "mola" means "shirt" or "clothing". The mola originated with the tradition of Guna women painting their bodies with geometric designs, using available natural colors; at a certain point, after the arrival of the Spanish, these same designs were woven in cotton, and later still, sewn using cloth "acquired by trade from the ships that came to barter for coconuts during the 19th century". Red cotton background with black reverse applique mounted on grey cotton. Design includes the serpent symbol.applique, mola - reverse applique, south america, panels

Black brocade with a decoration of applied black silk machine-made lace.embroidery, aprons, late 19th century, applique

Purchased from George's about 1962White heavy linen with organdie applique of blue flower pot and flowers and white leaf. Dark blue buttholed shaped edge top and bottom. Hand hemmed sides.embroidery, hand towel, applique, georges

Purchased from Miss E MacMillan, The Primrose Pottery shop who obtained it from an Hungarian refugee.White lawn applied to machine made net with "blind hemming". The design is based on traditional work from southern Europe. The edge of the mat is scalloped in buttonhole stitch.mats, 1940-60, hungary, applique

This bonnet is part of a collection of clothing donated to the Brighton Historical Society by Dr William and Helen Wells. It is believed to have belonged to William's grandmother Winifred Marshall (nee Hayball, 1886-1971). William's family has had a long association with Brighton, dating back to the town's earliest days in 1843 when his ancestors Robert and Eliza Hayball, who had emigrated to Melbourne two years prior, established a wattle-and-daub hut in what is now New Street, close to Tovell Street. Robert established a business as a timber merchant on the opposite side of New Street. His sons, Robert, William and Edwin took over the firm following his retirement, trading as the Hayball Bros. Hayball Court, which runs off New Street, is named after the family. Robert's son William (1855-1926) married Jessie Robertson and had four children. Their eldest, Winifred Grace Hayball (1886-1971), married Andrew Hollingsworth Marshall at the Black Street Congregational Church in 1907. They subsequently lived in Hill Street, Hawthorn, before moving into a house designed by Andrew and Winifred's brother Robert at 39 Bay Street, Brighton in 1915. Their daughter, Dorothy Marshall (1910-2000) married Robert George (Argie) Wells in 1937 at Wesley College Chapel. They lived in East Malvern until 1947, when they moved into a newly built home in Hawthorn Road, East Brighton, where they lived for the rest of their lives. Their son, William Wells (b. 1939) married Helen Pickering in 1968 and the couple have lived together in Brighton ever since.Pale pink silk bonnet (sleeping or house cap) with cream lace edging. The bonnet is embellished with oval-shaped embroidered appliqué on either side, featuring floral design in white and pale yellow, blue and green. A cream silk ribbon and a row of pale blue and green rosettes run along the top edge between the two appliquéd segments. A length of elastic is sewn through the bottom edge.wells family, winifred grace hayball, winifred grace marshall, bonnet, 1900s

Lorna Law (EGV) mounted pieces onto the backing fabric after children made the pieces in class. Inspired by hangings made by New Zealand embroiderers to hang in the new Globe Theatre in London. On the way to London they were hung in the Great Hall of the National Gallery in Melbourne.Brown cotton, edged in a shiny green cord. Birds, animals, fish etc. in a multitude of bright colours. Appliqued pieces sewn by children.embroidery, applique, children, class sampler, hanging

Bought by Mrs Oates from London 1962. Edith M. John. Well known English embroiderer.Modern applique embroidery depicting pomegranates in green, brown and orange with detail worked in cords and threads.E.M. John, Pomegranates 1962embroidery, panels, applique, 1940-60, england

Cream organza supper cloth and 4 matching serviettes. Cloth has a hand appliqued design of waterlilies in salmon pinks and greens in each corner. The serviettes have a small waterlily in one corner, and a rolled buttonholed edge.Label: Made in Chinaembroidery, tablecloths, napkins, china, applique

Fluoro yellow single breasted long sleeved jacket with LHS breast pocket and side front pockets. Breast pocket has grey and yellow Olympic emblem appliqué (9.5cm X 5cm). Fold over collar with lapels. Sleeves have 4 cm wide strip of grey and yellow patterned fabric stitch on top side from shoulder to hem at wrist. Front fastened with one 2.1 cm black plastic button with ''ARENA'' engraved.Two labels inside back neck ,1. 188A. 2. ''Made in France'' ''ARENA'' Washing Instructions.costume, male, fluoro yellow jacket