The company R. Fowler Limited was established in Sydney, in 1837 when Enoch Fowler (1807-1879) came to Australia from Ireland and is known today as the oldest pottery still in operation in Australia. They were mostly known for producing bottles, jars, and pipes. The pottery was originally located at Abercrombie Place on Parramatta Street, Chippendale, NSW before they relocated to Glebe in 1847. Later the pottery manufactured building materials such as tiles, pipes, and chimney pots. As the business grew, they moved to Parramatta in the 1850s. Enoch's son Robert (1839-1906) had joined the company, and took over its management in 1873, changing the name to “R Fowler Sydney” in 1880. Robert opened further sites at Marrickville and Bankstown, with the company becoming R. Fowler Limited in 1919. The factory at Thomastown, Melbourne was opened in 1927 from which time the trademark on this bowl was used. An item made by an Australian company during the first half of the 20th century. The item is significant as it gives a snapshot of the early development of manufacturing companies in Australia. It is typical of kitchenware used throughout Australia during the early 20th centuryA small Fowler Ware mixing bowl produced by R. Fowler Ltd. Thomastown, Victoria with Maker's mark clearly imprinted underneath the bowl.Set in circle underneath the bowl "R. FOWLER LTD./ THOMASTOWN/VIC"kitchenware, r. fowler ltd, pottery australia

A mass produced unbranded domestic item used before 1950's.A vintage medium sized cream coloured stoneware mixing bowl with a pouring lip for cooking. It has thick raised scalloped relief pattern around the body.ceramic bowl, kitchenware, cooking, mixing bowl

A mass produced unbranded domestic item used before 1950's.A vintage medium sized cream coloured stoneware mixing bowl with a pouring lip for cooking. It has three wide green stripes around the body of the bowl. 'Hoffman//9//Australia' printed on the base.ceramic bowl, kitchenware, cooking, mixing bowl

A mass produced unbranded domestic item used before 1950's. A bowl is a round container with a wide uncovered top. Some kinds of bowl are used, for example, for serving or eating food from, or in cooking, while other larger kinds are used for washing or cleaning.A vintage large round green Depression glass mixing bowl with a pouring lip and handle, used for cooking. It contains a few pieces of artificial fruit for display in the kitchen.kitchenware, cooking, mixing bowl

Mixing bowls of this design were a common item in Austrailan kitchens in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Women worked largely in the kitchen producing three meals daily for their families and, on farms, for the workers or casual labourers.Local significance for the history of women's work, especially the domestic duties of baking and cooking. Round, cream-coloured, ceramic mixing bowl with pouring lip, fluted design.baking, cakes, mixing bowl, kitchenware, women s work, domestic utensils, home cooked meals

Cream pottery mixing bowl with Greek key pattern around side.domestic equipment, food preparation, kitchen

This bowl was mass produced and was typical of mixing bowls used in homes during the 1950's in the Kiewa Valley.Women in the Kiewa Valley cooked at home for their family and for school and church fetes. This bowl was used for cake and biscuit mixtures. A large bone coloured mixing bowl with a lip for pouring. It has diagonal grooves around the outside.food. mixing bowl. kitchen. cooking. ceramic.

A mass produced unbranded utilitarian item made for domestic use no history or provenance currently available, design indicates item made before 1950Item at this time cannot be associated with an historical event, person or place, provenance is unknown, item assessed as a collection asset as made prior to 1950.Stoneware mixing bowl round cream with pouring lip and decorative scallop relief around bodyNoneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, bowl, ceramic bowl, pouring bowl, kitchen ware, cooking ware, ironstone bowl, salt glazed, mixing bowl

Belonged to Cheryl Kellett and donated to Susan Heywood-Downard for the Southern Sherbrooke Historical Society. Unknown history prior to that time.Ceramic Bowl originally belonging to Cheryl Kellett. Size 12 with a small "lip" at one edge for easy pouring of contents."12" at the bottom.baking, kitchen

This "mixing" bowl was used in a period before electric food processors and mixers were readily available(1940's). Basic food ingrediences requiring mixing such as cakes scones and bread had to be hand blended.This mixing bowl is very significant to the Kiewa Valley andrural regions because it details not only what kitchens, be they commercial, domestic or rural camp, required to be stocked with but also a period in time when electrical goods such as blenders were not on in production and electricity was not available.This bowl is made from steel and has a green enamel covering. The rim of the bowl has a black border to highlight its edge.nilmixing bowl, kitchen

This bowl was probably used by migrant workers on the SEC Victoria Kiewa Hydro Electricity Scheme circa 1950's. Due to the uneven pattern it can be assumed that this bowl was a cheap imported one possibly from Asia.This bowl has historical significance as a cheap imported mixing bowl or soup/main meal dish that shows the influence of the migrant infusion into the Kiewa Valley, maybe in the "gold rush" era. This medium sized ceramic/porcelain bowl has a gold painted rim and fine blue hair pin patterns and flowers. The pattern has been poorly applied and the irregular top lines appear to indicate an unprofessional alignment. The exterior has a rippled formation which has not been extended to the top rim. bottom inscription too faded to readkitchen bowl, main rice dish, mixing bowl

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

Mass produced unbranded domestic items used before 1950's.Three vintage different sized cream coloured stoneware mixing bowls with a pouring lip for cooking. They have a thick raised scalloped relief pattern around the body. There are two large and one medium sized.ceramic bowl, kitchenware, cooking, mixing bowl

Mixing bowls of this design were a common item in Austrailan kitchens in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. At this time the majority of women worked at home looking after their family and producing home-cooked meals. This type of bowl was a common domestic appliance used daily in Australian homes.This item is typical of kitchen utensils used in Australian homes in the early 20th century. No clear provence determined3 ceramic round mixing bowls of various widths - 340 mm, 300 mm and 265 mm. Each bowl has a pouring lip and decorative scallop relief around body. There is no indication of makers mark or source of production.Nonemixing bowl, domestic appliances

"Marvel" Electric Food Mixer - two beaters affixed to cylindical component that encases electric motor with cord attached - this component attached to metal stand with swivelling device - all metal painted pale green including rotating stand for placing mixing bowl on - black plastic? handle on moveable top section and circular open holes on top and around the sides.Plaque affixed to cylindrical section reads "75 watt/VOLTS AC DC 25 STYLE 21 No 1304082/MARVEL/Electric Food Mixer/Licensed under United States Patents/No's......

Hinged food mixer with egg beater blades of chrome plated steel. Brass handle, chromed. Base worked steel painted with hammertone paint. White plastic base to hold missing lemon squeezer. Bowl to mix in missing. Has five small rubber legs.Has a planetary action and is hand driven. Beats eggs, cream and potatoes. The juice can run down into the basin when lemon is squeezed.domestic items, food preparation

Series of Black & White Images depicting the life of the Hill Family and their friends during the year 1919. Total 9 photos. The Annual Hibernian Picnic Axedale Nail Driving Competition H. Hill Awarded 2nd Prize November 12, 1919. Threesome two males and one female, one male dressed in a dark suit white shirt and dark tie other wearing grey suit white shirt and dark tie, lady in the middle wearing a white dress with a dark sash at her waist, seated on the ground next to a large tree trunk and more shrubbery in background, under the shade of the trees Durvol property Kyneton Victoria Australia December 14 1919. Group of young ladies standing in a garden setting, lady at left wearing a dark dress and other two wearing white dresses and dark skirts, background shows picket fence with hedge covering parts , light post and wiring, driveway iron gates and letter box beside gate post Durvol December 19 1919. Aunt Mabel in her habit at 'The Ranche' January 1919. Two gentlemen, D. & E., dressed in dark suits with white shirts and dark ties, one showing a hint of braces and also has his hands in pockets, number of people in the background wearing varying combinations of white and dark clothing, tent peak, to the left small section of a gable roof on a structure, Hibernian picnic November 12 1919. Young man standing on wooden floor wearing waistcoat with double watch chain and dark trousers, right rear is a steel lounge covered with cushions, to the left is a verandah post, 'The Ranche' November 1919. Overexposed photo of girl dressed in white, wearing a pinafore apron, White blouse, dark stockings, holding a mixing bowl and a spoon in her right hand, Durvol 14 December 1919. group of ladies, three in all white three in dark skirts and white blouses, two ladies have dark coloured hats and one other three wear white hats, November 12 1919. Another group of young ladies, and two males, two ladies in all white, three young ladies in dark dresses with white collars, upturned cup on post, two males are dressed in dark suits and hats, both wear white shirts and dark ties, man on right is holding a white cloth with a teacup on top, large tree trunks in background and sloping ground, November 12 1919.Hilda Hill Private Collectionaustralia, history, post war life

The Kiewa Hydro Electric Scheme (KHES) produced electricity for the people living in the Kiewa Valley and beyond to many parts of Victoria. The people and their families working on the scheme were encouraged by their employer the State Electricity Commission of Victoria to purchase and use electrical appliances. The mix master was popular for mixing food for baking and for making juice drinks. Ron White owned this 1950s vintage Sunbeam model 9 mixer with stand, milk glass bowls and complete juicer. Ron was a senior member of staff during the construction and operation of the KHES.This mix master was owned by Ron White who was appointed Area Operations Engineer Kiewa in June 1956. Ron was later appointed General Superintendent and then in 1974 to principal Hydro Engineer of the recently titled Hydro Division.White electrical food mixer with six parts. 1. Motor upright - white, on black stand horizontal. Black dial at back with speeds numbered and type of mix eg. mash. Front switch on/off. Black electric cord attached. Long black handle on one side. 2 Two beaters, silver 3. Bowls, white one small and one large. The small one has a spout. 4. Squeezer, white - fits on top for juicing. Parts as with orange juicer and with funnel at the front for juice to flow into a bowl.'Sunbeam' (in red) / 'Mix Master' in (black) on gold oblong 'emblem' sunbeam mix master; kitchen appliance; cooking; ron white; kiewa hydro electric scheme; food preparation

A mixer is a kitchen utensil which uses a gear-driven mechanism to rotate a set of beaters in a bowl containing the food to be prepared. It automates the repetitive tasks of stirring, whisking or beating. Mixers for the kitchen first came into use midway through the nineteenth century; the earliest were mechanical devices. The mixer with rotating parts was patented in 1856 by Ralph Collier a tinsmith in Baltimore, Maryland .This was followed by E.P. Griffith's whisk patented in England in 1857. A circular tin used for mixing batters. The 2 beaters are of wire, with metal gears, suspended from a metal strip that fits over the tin bowl. and is clamped into place by a metal screw . A crank handle with a wooden black knob attached by a screw is turned by hand to mix the batter in the base. This tin could be secured to a table by a clamp and screw. cooking, kitchen equipment, dairy, cakes, housework, early settlers, pioneers, baking, nutrition, blacksmiths, market gardeners, cake mixers, moorabbin, cheltenham, bentleigh, brighton

The mortar is a bowl, typically made of hard wood, ceramic or stone. The pestle is a heavy club-shaped object, the end of which is used for crushing and grinding. The substance to be ground is placed in the mortar and ground, crushed or mixed with the pestle. The mortar and pestle is usually utilised when cooking and when crushing ingredients for a certain drug in pharmacies. For pharmaceutical use, the mortar and the head of the pestle are usually made of porcelain, while the handle of the pestle is made of wood. This is known as a Wedgwood mortar and pestle and originated in 1779. Glass mortars and pestles are fragile, but stain-resistant and suitable for use with liquids. However, they do not grind as finely as the ceramic type The mortar is a thick clear glass bowl and the pestle is a solid clear glass club-shaped tool for crushing tablets to a finer powder or mixing liquids by a pharmacist.pharmacy, mortar & pestle, medications, medicines, glass manufacturing, glass works, early settlers, moorabbin, bentleigh, cheltenham

The mortar is a bowl, typically made of hard wood, ceramic or stone. The pestle is a heavy club-shaped object, the end of which is used for crushing and grinding. The substance to be ground is placed in the mortar and ground, crushed or mixed with the pestle. The mortar and pestle is usually utilised when cooking and when crushing ingredients for a certain drug in pharmacies. For pharmaceutical use, the mortar and the head of the pestle are usually made of porcelain, while the handle of the pestle is made of wood. This is known as a Wedgwood mortar and pestle and originated in 1779Glass mortars and pestles are fragile, but stain-resistant and suitable for use with liquids. However, they do not grind as finely as the ceramic type The mortar is a thick clear glass bowl and the pestle is a solid clear glass club-shaped tool used by pharmacists for crushing tablets to a finer powder or mixing liquids pharmacy, mortar & pestle, medications, medicines, glass manufacturing, glass works, early settlers, moorabbin, bentleigh, cheltenham

Take a stroll through the average beverage aisle in your supermarket, and you might get the impression that tea has always come in small boxes with disposable tea bags. But before those easy to come by boxes, there was the rich and intriguing history of the tea strainer, a beautiful little tool that has helped our ancestors enjoy loose leaf tea for hundreds of years. Enjoying loose-leaf tea, and becoming familiar with this tool, can help spark an appreciation for your tea strainer and infuser collection, or simply inspire you to grow one. Documentation of tea tools such as the tea strainer appear in ancient history, the earliest models were likely made of bamboo, and later evolved into stainless steel, sterling silver, china, porcelain, silicon, and linen. During the Tang Dynasty in China, a small book called “Classic of Tea” was written describing tea utensils, and they were made to help Buddhist monks keep living things (such as small bugs) out of the drinking water. However, using a tea tool to keep run away tea leaves out of a cup did not become a cited use of the strainer until the 17th century when Dutch merchants made tea more readily available to those outside of the Chinese dynasty. British royals then increased the popularity of tea as their preferred beverage, and it was not long before a newfound fanaticism for tea in Great Britain spread to the American colonies, as did a growing demand for products that could separate loose tea leaves from liquid with ease and flair. Why did people use a strainer to separate out tea leaves in Great Britain and not in China? While the method of serving tea from a teapot with the tea loose in the pot was a practice used in both countries, the reason China may not have required a tool to remove leaves from their cup likely had to do with the types of tea leaves they were producing. The British owned tea plantations, in countries such as India, produced finer black tea leaves that did not require as much space to expand inside of a tea pot, where as the leaves prepared on the Chinese plantations would expand far more in the pot, and were therefore less likely to land or be bothersome inside a tea cup. This common approach to serving tea with smaller tea leaves required a solution to avoid ending up with a cup, and mouth, full of tea leaves. The obvious solution was a strainer basket. In the Victorian era, tea strainer baskets, similar to those still used in tea parlors today, were made to sit on top of the cup to capture the leaves when pouring the tea from a tea pot into the individual cups. Another solution was a tea-removing device called a mote spoon. Mote spoons act as search and rescue spoons to remove tea leaves from individual teacups. The tea would be brewed loose in the teapot, so any tea that ended up in the cup could be removed with a long handled spoon with holes in the spoon to remove rogue tea leaves and keep the steeped water in the cup. The handle also helped keep the teapot spout free of leaves and could help unclog any leaves trapped when pouring. Stainless steel tea strainers and tea infusers gained popularity in the late 19th century. Big name tea strainer producers, such as Tiffany and Gorham, could use fine silver to create quality, heavy, and sturdy strainers, for those who could afford it. There were many varieties of strainers at that time, but it was more likely that smaller designers who could not afford to mass-produce these quality strainers out of silver made them into unique shapes to attract consumers with lighter wallets. And borne was the tea strainer we are accustomed to today. Things took an unexpected turn for the tea strainer in the early 1900s when Thomas Sullivan, a tea merchant, shipped out tea samples in small silk bags. Customers did not realize that they were supposed to remove the tea from the bags, and instead boiled the tea, bag and all! The convenience of tossing out the leaves is obvious, and the popularity of tea bags is still seen today. Most premium bags of tea we are accustomed to today are frequently packaged loose for consumption, and when they are available in bags, the leaves are often crowded and do not have enough space to expand. While pyramid tea bags have become a more recent solution to this problem, due to the additional space at the top of the bag, enjoying a variety of quality tea is easier with a tea strainer in your arsenal. Besides, with the wide variety of strainers for your cup or pot in versatile materials such as mesh, silver, or a novelty silicone cartoon shape, loose tea can still reign supreme. Tea strainers sometimes do require more cleanup and measuring, but the experience and quality is always worth the effort. Besides, strainers also allow for mixing favorite tea blends together for an extra dose of delicious creativity! https://www.teamuse.com/article_170413.html The strainer provided the convenience of separating the tea leaves for disposal later.Metal strainer, bowl shaped, with mesh and twisted wire handle.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, strainer

Cream coloured bowl used for mixing.HOFFMAN AUSTRALIA 42earthenware, bowl

Donated by Norm Foun.|Made at Lithgow N.S.W. Small Arms Factory Aust in approx 1942.Sunbeam Mix Master - white enameled metal electric mixer with speed controls at one end and provision for the beater blades at other. Mounted on a black base with a turntable for turning the bowl. Black cord with Ring Grip plug. Two white opaque glass bowls. Two metal beaters.Sunbeam Mixmasterdomestic items, cooking

The Hydro mixer was attached to the kitchen tap which drove the mixing paddles.Mostly made of cast iron covered with green enamel. Its base is a 20 centimetre diameter and two centimetres high and shaped to hold a bowl, there is a protrusion eight centimetres long, four centimetres wide and nine centimetres high. A hinged section is attached to the protrusion of the base, it's a curved oval shape that's four centimetres by three centimetres at its base and tappers to four centimetres by two centimetres at the top, it then widens to an eleven centimetre diameter and three centimetres high shape that is parallel to the base, the centre of it is above the centre of the base. There is a removable eleven centimetre diameter plate screwed to the top. A two centimetre diameter 60 centimetre long plastic hose with a brass fitting on the end that is flared to four centimetres is attached to the side of the circular top. A one centimetre diameter metal tube is attached underneath that has two beaters on the end of it.HYDRO MIXER PAT APP FORfood preparation, hydro mixer

This small vintage bowl was used for cooking. From the 1860's - 1930's various companies called their enamelware products by their own unique names, e.g. graniteware and agateware. The enamel coating put an end to metallic tasting food and prevented rust from contaminating food. It did scratch and chip easily.A small vintage round yellow enamel bowl with a green rim. It would have be used for cooking.enamel, domestic equipment, bowls, container, mixing bowls

This type of bowl would have been used in the kitchen for everyday practical use. It is not decorated.A small white crazed glazed pottery bowl used in the kitchen.bowls, containers, mixing bowls, kitchen equipment, cooking equipment