John Hughes was Awarded the Military Medal: "for conspicuous good work during operations at/ GIRD TRENCH, near LE SARS, on 14.11.1916./ This N.C.O. was in charge of a party of men engaged in digging a communication trench from/ our jumping off trench to the newly captured GIRD TRENCH. He displayed great courage and coolness under very heavy fire, and his personal efforts were mainly responsible for the completion of the task allotted to his party."// Service number: 3044 Rank: Lance Sergeant Unit: 2nd Pnr Bn Service: Army Conflict: First World War, 1914-1918 Award: Military Medal Date of London Gazette: 22 January 1917 Location in London Gazette: Page 836, position 34 Date of Commonwealth of Australia Gazette: 29 June 1917 Location in Commonwealth of Australia Gazette: Page 1395, position 37A framed embroidered cushion cover from WW1. Sent or brought home by Lt. Jack Hughes. Contained within the same frame is a paper clipping and a photo.1.Cushion cover: from the top down- Egypt.... 1914/ Rising Sun/ scrolls with Australian Commonwealth/ Military Forces/ Aust Div Train/ Palestine Sinai Syria/1919. 2.Newpaper clipping with photo: John Hughes (left) 81, and Hugh Mont/gomery, 87, are the two oldest veterans who/ will be taking part in the Frankston ANZAC/ Day March on Tuesday. Mr Hughes served/ in France and Belgium in WW1 and/ in Darwin in the Second World War. He is a/ holder of the Military Medal./ Mr. Montgomery served with the 29th Bat/talion AIF in France during WW1/ Both men have been residents of the RSL park War Veterans Home for the past eight years.// 3. Photo: Mr. John Hughes.belgium, france, ww1, lt, mm, jack, hughes

Written on backing sheet, "St. Mary's School, Bedford Road, Ringwood. 1937-38. Back Row - K. Rodaughan, D. Hannan, ? Ellis, M. Maidment, J. Davern, D. Morphett, ??, J. Kiker, J. Nolan, F. Hardidge, A. Orr, W. Steeth. 3rd Row - B. Bates, W. Smith, K. Hardidge, J. Ryan, B. Byrne, P. Stratton, W. Davern, F. Barro, ??, J. Lindsay, A. Smith, ? Pratt. 2nd Row - Byrne, ??, G. Robinson, J. Grey, ? Brown, ??, G. Robinson, J. Grey, ? Brown, ? Brown, ??, ??, K. Ryan, W. Connell, W. Orr, J. Bowles, B. Grey, ??. Front Row - L. Hardingham, P. Gridley, ??, J. Orr, P. Alford, ??, P. Davern, V. Orr".

Black and white photograph - Grade 5A, 1963."Attached to photograph" Back Row- L to R: Russell Borke, John Snellders, Craig Austin, Barbara Donald, Janet Conlon, Diana Rankin, Debbie Lawrence, Russell Paine, Neil Ratray, Gavin Philips. 2nd Row- L to R: Tommy Colston, Greg Peters, Leslie Reed, Jeffrey Taylor, Gary McCubbin, Gary Davies, ?, John Moon, Barry McDonald, Malcolm Pearson, ?. 3rd Row- L to R: Stephen Gross, Neil Dawe, Jeffrey Fielding, David Kennely, Ian (?), Philip Bates, Jeffrey Ratten, David Kimberly, Robyn Hagar, Malcolm Williams. Front Row- L to R: Karen Williams, Debbie Monk, Elizabeth Clarke, Judy Parker, Linda (?), Jan Thompson, Sally Shaw, Cheryl O'Brien, Rosaland Wiggle, Julie Cook, Rhonda McLeod. On Ground: Michael Craddock, David Connell. Teacher:

Black and white photograph - Grade 6C, 1964."Attached to photograph" Back Row- L to R: Greg Peters, David Pumpa, Norman Pearson, Liz Allen, Robyn Henry, Grace King, Deb Lawrence, Jenny Johnson, Linda Chegwiden, Erica Seffers. 2nd Row- L to R: Chris Eastwood, Graham Haglan, Gary Ladegashes, Gary Morgan, ?, Paul Wilson, Wayne Walton, Stephen Foster, Gavin Philips, Barry McDonald. 3rd Row- L to R: Philip Bates, Michael Craddock, Michael Williams, Stephen Cross, Ron Saines, Neil Dawe, ?, Bruce Barber, Robin Hagar, Paul Martin. Front Row- L to R: Lynette German, Lorraine Tann, Linda Willis, Debby Silvy, Judy Parker, Pam Williams, Julie Cook, Glenda Cooper, Jenny Buchanan, Ann Dowling, Sally Shaw. On Ground: Robert Silvie, ?, Graeme Cleator, David Kennely, Dale Ryan. Teacher: Miss Norman

Black and white photograph - Grade 4A, 1962"Attached to photograph" Back Row- L to R: Russell Bourke, Robert Taylor, Malcolm Pearson, Russell Paine, Gavin Phillips, Neil Rattray, Gary Davies, ?, Barry McDonald, Craig Austin, Gary McCubbin, John Moon. 2nd Row- L to R: Julie Cook, Jan Thompson, Leslie Gray, Leanne Thorpe, Laurie Simpson,, Debbie Lawrence, Elizabeth Clarke, Roslyn wiggle, Diana Rankin, Wilemina Cook, Janet Conlon. 3rd Row- L to R: Tommy Colston, Stephen Cross, Jeffrey Ratten, Roslyn (?), Sally Shaw, Debbie Monk, Rhonda McLeod, Karen Williams, Ian Jones, Leslie Reed, David Connell. Front Row- L to R: Robin Hagar, Greg Peters, Malcolm Williams, Phillip Bates, David Kimberley, Michael Craddock, David Kennely, Neil Dawe, Jeffrey Fields. Teacher: Mr Delacca

0 - No 9 - 1/4/2011 - Rhinos on skateboards, Did you know, Spencer St works, .1 - No. 11 of 3/5/2011 with the revised Yarra trams logo, traffic priority, work over Easter in Spencer St at Bourke and Collins St, Good Friday appeal, safety, passenger feedback and future works. .2 - No. 13 - 31/5/2011 - new uniform, cleaning, CEPR, trackwork - Fitzroy St, Northcote, Rhino, Carlton Control. .3 - No. 14 - 15/6/2011 - Haymarket Roundabout, accessibility, maintenance, CSE. .4 - No. 17 - 2/8/2011 - High St Westgarth trackwork, Swanston St, IMF CEO visit .5 - No. 18 - 16/8/2011 - Performance benchmarks met, Preston Workshops, repairs to 3018, tram signal priority. .6 - No . 19 - 30/8/2011 - New E class trams, routes "a" or "d", TramTracker in shelters, police, fare evasion .7 - No. 20 - 15/9/2011 - Football trams, Superstops, Bridge Road, Rhinos. .8 - No. 21 - 27/9/2011 - CEO's journey to work, accessibility, increased patronage, E class. .8a - No. 22 - 11/10/2011 - Minister Mulder visit, E class, Customer experience, Elizabeth Kerdelhue Corporate Affairs Director, flood indicator in Wellington Parade, Keolis - Orleans and PTV coming your way. .9 - No. 23 - 25/10/2011 - forthcoming royal visit, opening for Footscray Road extension, Rhinos, Stockholm .10 - No. 24 - 8/11/2011- Royal visit, photos, Z3 158, route 86 works in High St. (see htd5043i21 for a image from an unknown newspaper of the actual event - features Z3 158.) .11 - No. 25 - 22/11/2011 - new staff guide, Gold Coast tram line, Macarthur St, overhead, fund raising, route numbering update. .12 - No. 26 - 6/12/2011 - Swanston St Superstops, Newmarket bridge strikes, rhinos. .13 - No. 27 - 20/12/2011 - Christmas carnival, Lenny Bates, portable crossover, uniforms. .14 - No. 28 - 17/1/2012 - Passing of Len Bates, Myki, Gardiner railway station. .15 - No. 30 - 15/2/2012 - visit of Keolis, SNCF people, list of Executive leadership team with photos, Swanston St works, Myki introduction. .16 - No. 31 - 29/2/2012 - patronage up, tram postage stamps, Myki, rhinos. .17 - No. 32 - 14/3/2012 - St Kilda Rd trackwork, fund raising, Southbank Depot extensions, Myki, driving conditions, grand prix. .18 - No. 33 - 30/3/2012 - introduction of the PTV, end of MetLink and Transport Ticketing Authority, changes in management structure, trackwork, Gold Coast tramway and Keolis. .19 - No. 34 - Dr Jake - Royal children's Hospital super stop, route 96 - Premium line. .20 - No. 35, 2/5/2012 - Revision of Rules, trackwork in St Kilda Road and Elizabeth St, Myki, safety - Zero Harm. .21 - No. 69 - 25/9/2013 - Passengers paying their way, E class update, Mal Ashworth retires, progress report, feedback, new chime on trams. .22 - No. 70 - 9/10/2013 - Art comes alive, tram 925, driver simulator at Preston Workshops, E class project, 90th Glen Huntly. .23 - No. 83 - 23/4/2014 - Screen time for trams, new PIDs on B class, assistance animals, Operations Centre, Preston Workshops, Electrical log sheets to SLV. .24 - No. 89 - 23/7/2014 - punctuality, refresh of network map (fold-out map), women drivers. .25 - No. 97 - 19/11/2014 - Revitalising route 96, Keolis news, free tram zone, guide dogs. .26 - No. 99 - 17/12/2014 - Accessibility week, new uniform top for CSE's, free tram zone, world trade centre stop upgrade, heat stress, Art tram 158. .27 - No. 100 - 14/1/2015 - Route 96 complete, New Years eve free travel, fare compliance, patronage down, Demonstrates Yarra trams staff newsletters.Set of 22 Yarra Trams internal newsletter "The Wire", All A4, printed in full colour. All four pages unless noted otherwise, full colour, performance snapshot on front cover.trams, tramways, yarra trams, traffic control, trackwork, spencer st, fund raising, operations, rhinos, carlton control, high st, haymarket, preston workshops, e class, route numbers, bridge road, wellington parade, ptv, royal visit, footscray road, new tramway, gold coast, macarthur st, swanston st, superstops, newmarket, gardiner, burke road, level crossings, railway squares, myki, metlink, tickets, route 96, rules, st kilda road, elizabeth st, tram 158, tram 925, glen huntly depot, simulator, b class, opeations centre, art trams, patronage

James (Jim) Smith, (died 03/08/1974, aged 93 years) established an orchard growing snow apples in Happy Valley after returning from mining activities in South Africa. The orchard was called "Springdallah" and was beside the Linton/Happy Valley Road across from the old Happy Valley railway station. Jim was the son of George Henry Smith (18/12/1840 - 26/11/1903) and Emma Keys Smith born Keys (07/08/1842 - 28/08/1888). George and Emma left Liverpool with other unassisted immigrants on the "Bates Family" with baby Clara on 08/06/1863 arriving in Melbourne on 08/06/1863. George and Emma emigrated to Australia on the invitation of Emma's brother Edward Keys who owned a property near the school at Happy Valley on which there were two houses. Teddy offered George and Emma the smaller one to live in. When "Teddy" decided to go into hotel keeping George took over the 200 acres of his property and made it a pleasant orchard and garden called "Cress Green Gardens". George had various secretarial jobs - rate collector; paymaster at the mines; until he became Shire Secretary for the Shire of Grenville, whose centre was Linton and Government Auditor for Western Victoria (1894-1903), the means of transport being horse and buggy. Another son followed his father as Shire Secretary. George and Emma had 14 children, Emma dying giving birth to Emma Keys who lived for 16 months. George later married Annie Bolte with 2 more children being born. Annie later sold the property. The land was used for grazing and the two houses fell into disrepair. In 1995 George's grandson Ernest (Alf) Alfred Watson visited the site and reported a wrought iron gate at the site and a mulberry tree near the site of his grandmother's family home. Bluestone blocks can still be seen in the paddocks from the roadside. Jim Smith was the brother of Clara Emma Yung nee Smith.Sepia photo of two men and a girl. One of them is Jim Smith who established on orchard at Happy Valley. He also went to South Africa - mining activities. The orchard is now part of Clarkesdale Bird Sanctuary located at 360 Linton-Piggoreet Rd, Linton, Vic. 3360. Verso: Jim Smith South Africa (Mining) Established orchard halfway between Yendon and Happy Valley. Clara Emma's brother. [ Orchard established near Linton at Happy Valley.]jim smith, james smith, clara emma smith, happy valley, yendon, piggoreet, south africa, mining, orchard, edward keys, george henry smith, emma keys smith, clara emma yung, annie bolte, shire of grenville, clarkesdale bird sanctury

From Rosemary Cameron - This quilt has been made in 100% wool to celebrate the diversity, durability and beauty of pure wool, especially the lightweight cool wools. The woollen patches were kindly donated by Mr. David Jones, managing Director of Fletcher Jones and Staff which were pre-cut samples of European Fabrics in various weights, textures and colours. I had the task of creating a design around the fabrics available, some of which I only had to sample. I chose to surround my design with dark shades to encompass at the top of the quilt, the lightness of the sky and the trees, in the middle the warmth of summer, the dryness of central Australia and at the bottom the rick tones of Opals, our mineral wealth and the internal heart of earth. To add excitement and texture to this design I chose 31 Australian Wildflowers including all the Australian Floral Emblems, some unusual wildflowers and favourite small wildflowers. Twice life size, these flowers have been made of silk wool and cotton, embroidered, painted and beaded by our creative and talented Hamilton Quilters, their results are fantastic! The brilliance and timeless quality of these Australian Wildflowers intensify and complement the colours of the Wool Quilt. The Quilt was hand pieced and hand quilted at quilting bees. It has a woollen batting, binding and backing which was a delight to work with and very easy to quilt. The flowers were assembled and attached in small working bees. To the fifty-two Hamilton Quilters who have worked on this quilt for six months thank you for you hard work and creativity especially Joan H. Lyons for her time, enthusiasm and knowledge when difficulties arose. Joan M. Lyons has worked with me on various stages of this Quilt, her help and support has been tremendous. To my family who have tolerated scraps of wool and silk, photographs, wildflower books and specimens and drawings which have at times almost taken over our house, a year from ideas to completion, thank you for your support and help in many ways.Multi coloured patchwork quilt with native flowers protruding from centre in a diamond shape.Embroidered on back - "The Celebration Quilt" Made in 1990 by The Hamilton Quilters, Designed by Rosemary A.O. Cameron. Made of Pure Wool. Beryl Anderson, Joan Askew, Bett Basham, Marilyn Baulch, Rau Blaby, Pauline Boyd, Aileen Beckwith, Dorothy Beveridge, Ros Brommell, Rosemary Cameron, Gwen Cook, Anne Cordner, Kaylene Cowland, Elaine Denby, Barbara Dolman, Rosalie Duffield, Helen Fry, Glennys Gardner, Nola Gunning, Margaret Irvine, Bev Jeffrey, Emma Jensen, Betty Lacy, Helen Lampard, Joan H. Lyons, Joan M. Lyons, Elaine McDonald, Carole McEwan, Joy McLeod, Joyce McLeod, Mary May, Joan Mallinson, Susan Mason, Anne Menzel, Val Mills, Betty O’Brien, Di Pettigrew, Therese Read, Sherry Robertson, Lee Rowland, Irene Saddler, Nanette Templeton, Glenys Tindall, Liz Wallis, Ruth Walter, Marion Warburton. Alison Waterman, Pat Wilmot, Nola Malcolm, Ann Nicholls, Margaret Rowe, Jill Hillier.celebration, flowers, hamilton quilters, quilt, native flowers

‘The Fading Dream of Australian Home Ownership’ was made by Judy Turner in 1989 for her son Nicholas (then 14 years) after a family discussion about mortgages and rising interest rates (17% at the time), out of concern for his generation. “Perhaps this will keep my son warm when he can’t afford a house”, wrote Judy at the time. As a quilting teacher for over thirty years, Judy was well aware of the ‘wagga’ tradition of making do with what you have and reusing resources to make something useful. The quilt was made using approximately 270 different men’s woollen suiting samples. The fabrics in the quilt were a gift from Micheal Haze who was a travelling men’s ware salesman and friend of the artist’s late husband. The suiting samples were used just as they were, without cutting, and are stacked liked house bricks. The pieces have been machine pieced and tied. The quilt has woollen backing, with no batting. Judy’s son Nicholas, always interested in drawing, and keen to see what his mother was making, helped with the drawing and design of the house. The quilt has been exhibited in Canberra, Armidale and Sydney and featured in publications in Australian and Japan. Judy’s work has been exhibited Nationally and Internationally, including in Japan, Korea, Germany, Switzerland and the United States of America. Judy’s work has featured extensively in publications around the world, and has received many awards. Her work is held in public and private collections across Australia and the USA. As well as a successful career as an artist, Judy spent three decades imparting skills to the next generation as a patient and skilled teacher. ARTIST STATEMENT The medium of my artistic practice is quilt making and my focus is the use of colour and speedy, accurate and efficient methods of making successful quilts. In 1995 I developed an original technique of applying woollen yarn to a woollen background, focusing on the subtle blending of colour to express an idea. Author of Awash With Colour (1997) and co-author with Margaret Rolfe of Successful Scrap Quilts (2002).Folio page depicting three items attached to a black card background. One item is a title written in black ink on white background, another is a photograph of a quilt, the third shows a hand drawn sketch of a house with a verandah.Front: [handwritten] 95 / Judy Turner / The fading dream of / Australian Home Ownership. / Initial sketch while / deciding how to depict / the Fading Dream of / Australian Home Ownership.quilt, wagga, home, house, housing affordability, design

‘The Fading Dream of Australian Home Ownership’ was made by Judy Turner in 1989 for her son Nicholas (then 14 years) after a family discussion about mortgages and rising interest rates (17% at the time), out of concern for his generation. “Perhaps this will keep my son warm when he can’t afford a house”, wrote Judy at the time. As a quilting teacher for over thirty years, Judy was well aware of the ‘wagga’ tradition of making do with what you have and reusing resources to make something useful. The quilt was made using approximately 270 different men’s woollen suiting samples. The fabrics in the quilt were a gift from Micheal Haze who was a travelling men’s ware salesman and friend of the artist’s late husband. The suiting samples were used just as they were, without cutting, and are stacked liked house bricks. The pieces have been machine pieced and tied. The quilt has woollen backing, with no batting. Judy’s son Nicholas, always interested in drawing, and keen to see what his mother was making, helped with the drawing and design of the house. The quilt has been exhibited in Canberra, Armidale and Sydney and featured in publications in Australian and Japan. Judy’s work has been exhibited Nationally and Internationally, including in Japan, Korea, Germany, Switzerland and the United States of America. Judy’s work has featured extensively in publications around the world, and has received many awards. Her work is held in public and private collections across Australia and the USA. As well as a successful career as an artist, Judy spent three decades imparting skills to the next generation as a patient and skilled teacher. ARTIST STATEMENT The medium of my artistic practice is quilt making and my focus is the use of colour and speedy, accurate and efficient methods of making successful quilts. In 1995 I developed an original technique of applying woollen yarn to a woollen background, focusing on the subtle blending of colour to express an idea. Author of Awash With Colour (1997) and co-author with Margaret Rolfe of Successful Scrap Quilts (2002).Quilt featuring block pieces in tones of grey, blue, tan and brown, graduating in light to dark tones from top to bottom. The top third features a house with a verandah.quilt, wagga, home, house, housing affordability, design

‘The Fading Dream of Australian Home Ownership’ was made by Judy Turner in 1989 for her son Nicholas (then 14 years) after a family discussion about mortgages and rising interest rates (17% at the time), out of concern for his generation. “Perhaps this will keep my son warm when he can’t afford a house”, wrote Judy at the time. As a quilting teacher for over thirty years, Judy was well aware of the ‘wagga’ tradition of making do with what you have and reusing resources to make something useful. The quilt was made using approximately 270 different men’s woollen suiting samples. The fabrics in the quilt were a gift from Micheal Haze who was a travelling men’s ware salesman and friend of the artist’s late husband. The suiting samples were used just as they were, without cutting, and are stacked liked house bricks. The pieces have been machine pieced and tied. The quilt has woollen backing, with no batting. Judy’s son Nicholas, always interested in drawing, and keen to see what his mother was making, helped with the drawing and design of the house. The quilt has been exhibited in Canberra, Armidale and Sydney and featured in publications in Australian and Japan. Judy’s work has been exhibited Nationally and Internationally, including in Japan, Korea, Germany, Switzerland and the United States of America. Judy’s work has featured extensively in publications around the world, and has received many awards. Her work is held in public and private collections across Australia and the USA. As well as a successful career as an artist, Judy spent three decades imparting skills to the next generation as a patient and skilled teacher. ARTIST STATEMENT The medium of my artistic practice is quilt making and my focus is the use of colour and speedy, accurate and efficient methods of making successful quilts. In 1995 I developed an original technique of applying woollen yarn to a woollen background, focusing on the subtle blending of colour to express an idea. Author of Awash With Colour (1997) and co-author with Margaret Rolfe of Successful Scrap Quilts (2002).Folio page depicting three items attached to a black card background. One item is a red, blue, black and white textile sample, another is a hand drawn sketch of a house, the third shows hand written text on lined paper in black ink.Front: [handwritten] Final / design / for housequilt, wagga, home, house, housing affordability, design

‘The Fading Dream of Australian Home Ownership’ was made by Judy Turner in 1989 for her son Nicholas (then 14 years) after a family discussion about mortgages and rising interest rates (17% at the time), out of concern for his generation. “Perhaps this will keep my son warm when he can’t afford a house”, wrote Judy at the time. As a quilting teacher for over thirty years, Judy was well aware of the ‘wagga’ tradition of making do with what you have and reusing resources to make something useful. The quilt was made using approximately 270 different men’s woollen suiting samples. The fabrics in the quilt were a gift from Micheal Haze who was a travelling men’s ware salesman and friend of the artist’s late husband. The suiting samples were used just as they were, without cutting, and are stacked liked house bricks. The pieces have been machine pieced and tied. The quilt has woollen backing, with no batting. Judy’s son Nicholas, always interested in drawing, and keen to see what his mother was making, helped with the drawing and design of the house. The quilt has been exhibited in Canberra, Armidale and Sydney and featured in publications in Australian and Japan. Judy’s work has been exhibited Nationally and Internationally, including in Japan, Korea, Germany, Switzerland and the United States of America. Judy’s work has featured extensively in publications around the world, and has received many awards. Her work is held in public and private collections across Australia and the USA. As well as a successful career as an artist, Judy spent three decades imparting skills to the next generation as a patient and skilled teacher. ARTIST STATEMENT The medium of my artistic practice is quilt making and my focus is the use of colour and speedy, accurate and efficient methods of making successful quilts. In 1995 I developed an original technique of applying woollen yarn to a woollen background, focusing on the subtle blending of colour to express an idea. Author of Awash With Colour (1997) and co-author with Margaret Rolfe of Successful Scrap Quilts (2002).Two typed letters held together with a staple. The first letter has a grey printed letter head which includes a logo of a person with wings holding a heart.[printed] PATCHWORK QUILT TSUSHINquilt, wagga, home, house, housing affordability, design

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

Registered plaques representing R.A.N. , W.R.A.N.S. , H.M.A.S. Vampire, and H.M.A.S. Perth.Rare collection of Royal Australian Navy plaquesPine-board backing with 4 plaques mounted 1. Royal Australian Navy, 2. W.R.A.N.S.,3.HMAS Vampire, 4.HMAS Perth, The plaques are mounted on a wooden shields. 1. Royal Australian Navy plaque consists of an oval shape topped by a regal crown and bottom an anchor and chain, The center of the plaque is Black in color embossed in a ring of "Royal Australian Navy" the center of the plaque is a symbol of an anchor and chain. 2. W.R.A.N.S. Triangle shape with a Crown made-up from a sailing ship and the bottom a bow of blue ribbon. The lower half of the triangle is a wreath of leaves. the center of the triangle is painted light blue and has small stars one in each corner. In the center there is a ships anchor and chain. The bottom of the plaque is the initials "W.R.N.S." 3.HMAS Vampire A circular plaque a crown on the top a sailing ship in a crown format. Over a name of Vampire in gold on a black back ground the middle is a circle painted blue with a black Bat in the center. The bottom of the plaque is emblazoned with a boomerang, stone axe and aboriginal waddy followed by a banner "Audamus" meaning "we dare, we venture, we risk" 4.HMAS Perth, A circular plaque a crown on the top a sailing ship in a crown format. Over a name of Perth in gold on a black back ground. The middle is a circle painted gold with a black Griffen in the center. The bottom of the plaque is emblazoned with a boomerang, stone axe and aboriginal waddy followed by a banner "Fight and Flourish". motto.plaques, r.a.n., w.r.a.n., h.m.a.s. vampire

1. The moral lexicon of the Warlpiri people of central Australia LR Hiatt This paper discusses words that match ?Good? and ?Bad?; examples of ?Good? and ?Bad? behaviour; morality and law; and egalitarianism and dominance. It also presents a comparison with Gidjingarli (Burarra). 2. Mobs and bosses: Structures of Aboriginal sociality Patrick Mullins (Mount Druitt, NSW) A commonality of Aboriginal social organisation exists across the continent in communities as different as those from the Western Desert across to Cape York, from the towns of New South Wales and Western Australia to cities like Adelaide. This is found in the colloquial expressions ?mob? and ?boss?, which are used in widely differing contexts. Mobbing is the activity where relatedness, in the sense of social alliances, is established and affirmed by virtue of a common affiliation with place, common experience and common descent, as well as by the exchange of cash and commodities. Bossing is the activity of commanding respect by virtue of one?s capacity to bestow items of value such as ritual knowledge, nurturance, care, cash and commodities. Mobbing and bossing are best understood as structures in Giddens? sense of sets of rules and resources involved in the production of social systems, in this case social alliances. Mobbing and bossing imply a concept of a person as a being in a relationship. Attention needs to be given to the way these structures interact with institutions in the wider Australian society. 3. Recognising victims without blaming them: A moral contest? About Peter Sutton?s ?The Politics of Suffering: Indigenous Policy in Australia since the 1970s? and Gillian Cowlishaw?s replies Ma�a Ponsonnet (Universit� Paris- 8-Saint-Denis) Peter Sutton?s texts on Aboriginal violence, health and their politicisation are replied to using his methodology, and acknowledging his convincing points. Sutton rightly denounces a lack of lucidity and scientific objectivity in anthropological debates. These inadequacies impede identification of what Aboriginal groups can do to improve their situations for fear that this identification would lead to blame the victims. At the other end of the ethical spectrum, those who advocate a broader use of what I will call a ?resistance interpretation? of violence fail to recognise victims as such, on the implicit grounds that seeing victims as victims would deprive them of any agency, on the one hand, and entail blame, on the other hand. I aim to define a middle road between those views: the idea that victims should be acknowledged as such without being denied their agency and without being blamed for their own condition. This middle road allows identification of the colonisers? responsibilities in the contemporary situation of Indigenous communities in Australia, and to determine who can do what. Secondly, I show that Sutton?s texts convey, through subtle but recurrent remarks, an ideology of blame rather than a mere will to identify practical solutions. As a consequence, some of his proposals do not stand on a solid and objective causal analysis. 4. 'You would have loved her for her lore?: The letters of Daisy Bates Bob Reece (Murdoch University) Daisy Bates was once an iconic figure in Australia but her popular and academic reputation became tarnished by her retrograde views. Her credibility was also put in doubt through the exposure of her fictionalised Irish background. In more recent times, however, her ethnographic data on the Aborigines of Western Australia has been an invaluable source for Native Title claims, while her views on Aboriginal extinction, cannibalism and ?castes? are being seen as typical of her time. This article briefly reviews what has been the orthodox academic opinion of her scientific achievement before summarising what is reliably known of her early history and indicating what kind of person is revealed in the 3000 or more letters that she left behind. 5. What potential might Narrative Therapy have to assist Indigenous Australians reduce substance misuse? Violet Bacon (Curtin University of Technology) Substance misuse is associated with adverse consequences for many Australians including Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples. Extensive research has been conducted into various intervention, treatment and prevention programs to ascertain their potential in reducing substance misuse within Aboriginal and non-Aboriginal communities. I explore the potential of Narrative Therapy as a counselling intervention for assisting Indigenous Australians reduce the harm associated with substance misuse. 6. Bone points from the Adelaide River, Northern Territory Sally Brockwell (University of Canberra) and Kim Akerman (Moonah) Large earth mounds located next to the vast floodplains of the lower Adelaide River, one of the major tropical rivers draining the flat coastal plains of northern Australia, contain cultural material, including bone points. The floodplains of the north underwent dynamic environmental change from extensive mangrove swamps in the mid-Holocene, through a transition phase of variable estuarine and freshwater mosaic environments, to the freshwater environment that exists today. This geomorphological framework provides a background for the interpretation of the archaeology, which spans some 4000 years. 7. A different look: Comparative rock-art recording from the Torres Strait using computer enhancement techniques Liam M Brady (Monash University) In 1888 and 1898, Cambridge University?s Alfred C Haddon made the first recording of rock-art from the Torres Strait islands using photography and sketches. Systematic recording of these same paintings and sites was carried out from 2000 to 2004 by archaeologists and Indigenous Torres Strait Islander and Aboriginal communities as part of community-based rock-art recording projects. Computer enhancement techniques were used to identify differences between both sets of recordings, to reveal design elements that Haddon missed in his recordings, and to recover images recorded by Haddon that are today no longer visible to the naked eye. Using this data, preliminary observations into the antiquity of Torres Strait rock-art are noted along with recommendations for future Torres Strait region rock-art research and baseline monitoring projects. 8. Sources of bias in the Murray Black Collection: Implications for palaeopathological analysis Sarah Robertson (National Museum of Australia) The Murray Black collection of Aboriginal skeletal remains has been a mainstay of bio-anthropological research in Australia, but relatively little thought has been given to how and why this collection may differ from archaeologically obtained collections. The context in which remains were located and recovered has created bias within the sample, which was further skewed within the component of the collection sent to the Australian Institute of Anatomy, resulting in limitations for the research potential of the collection. This does not render all research on the collection unviable, but it demonstrates the importance of understanding the context of a skeletal collection when assessing its suitability for addressing specific research questions.maps, b&w photographs, colour photographs, illustrations, graphs, chartswarlpiri, sociology, daisy bates, substance abuse, narrative therapy, rock art, technology and art, murray black collection, pleistocene sites, watarrka plateau

Emerald Country Club Associates Ladies Championship Trophy from 1937 to 1996Local golf club trophy donated by ex committee member Rosalie LeakeSilver Golf Trophy Cup (Ladies) on wooden base.. engraved with winners from 1937 to 1996 Emerald Country Club Associates E.M..KENNON CUP 1937 Mrs G.L. Elkins 1938 Mrs T.W. Gunnersen 1939 Mrs Norman 1940 Mrs A. Baker 1946 Mrs L.A. Fenton 1947 Mrs A.L. Newold 1948 Mrs C. Bedgood 1949 Mrs A. Baker 1950 Miss P. Massey 1951 Mrs W.H. Symon 1952 Mrs W.H. Symon 1953 Mrs A.L. Newbold 1954 Mrs W.H. Symon 1955 Miss M. Jamison 1956 Mrs W.H. Symon 1957 Miss J. Mellor 1958 Mrs L. Bulmer 1959 Mrs W.H. Symon 1960 Miss J. Mellor 1961 Mrs E. Hoy 1962 Mrs L. Bulmer 1963 Miss D. Smith 1964 Mrs N. Tuxen 1965 Mrs M. Hanger 1966 Mrs A. Howard 1967 Mrs R. Morgan 1968 Mrs P. Young 1969 Mrs J. Little 1970 Mrs J. Fountain 1971 Miss P. Jackson 1972 Mrs J. Little 1973 Mrs J. Houghton 1974 Mrs J. Meldrum 1975 Mrs. B. Barraclough 1976 Mrs J. Meldrum 1977 Mrs F. Gooch 1978 Mrs S. Hunter 1979 Ms F. Fenton 1980 Mrs J. Martin 1981 Mrs C. Grand-Court 1982 Mrs J. Pugh 1983 Mrs M. Ruigrok 1984 Mrs P. Summers 1985 Miss A. Scurry 1986 Mrs P. White 1987 Mrs M. Ruigrok 1988 Mrs P. White 1989 J. Ross 1990 Miss B. Bates 1991 Ms A. Felgate 1992 Ms M. Purbrick 1993 Ms J. Thomson 1994 Ms J Tomson 1995 Ms J Thomson 1996 Mrs R. Leake emerald country club, wm kennon cup, golf trophy 1937 to 1996

This is part of a collection belonging to Sgt, William E. CarrollThis is a copy of a letter written by 815 Cpl William Carroll to his Aunt while he was hospitalised in Cairo. It is written on YMCA letterhead.Top Left hand Corner: Patron/ YMCA National Council/ H.M. The King/ Patron /Military Camp Dept./ H.R.H. Duke of Connaught. Centre top: For God, For King & For Country/ YMCA Logo/ with the/ Mediterranean Expeditionary Force. (written through the logo)/ Right hand top corner: Committee/ for Egypt/and/the Near East./ Chairman/ H.E. Sir Henry McMahon Lower down page: Reply to No. 815 Coy D Bat 21st/ Dec 31st '16/ Stationed at/ Dear Aunt,/ I am at present a patient in the (??)/ General Hospital, Egypt, back again at Cairo. I/have a slight abcess on my lip and my neck was a/ bit swollen, but both are almost right now./ It's quite a relief to be away from the shot &/ shell, for a spell & to enjoy comfort and sunshine/ again after four months hardships in the trenches./ During the latter part of my stay at ANZAC, it/ was intensely cold, snow & ice galore & freezing/ cold winds. It's five days since I left the pen/insular; we were taken off in a small steamer/ to Lemnos & put aboard a fine hospital ship./ We arrived at Alexandria yesterday morning/ & came on here last night. My lip has been/ lanced & the swelling is disappearing fast./ I had many miraculuous escapes in the trench./ Once whilst observing over the sandbags a barage/ ventilated my hat. On another occasion when/ I was stiring the porridge a piece of shrapnel/ knocked over our breakfast into the fire. So I have/ a lot to be thankful for to be sure./Many of my comrades have gone and are buried in the/ churchyard in Shrapnell gully & more are away sick/ and wounded. I intended to cable to you for some money but I think I'll be able to make do/ of it, & we have all our wants attended to here./ Do you remembr Willy O'Leary of Mansfield?- He/ was killed near us in an attack some time ago./ Young Sgt. Roberts, my chum of Dookie & Broadmeadows/ was also sniped a few days before I left./ The war doesn't appear to be going too well, but/ I am sure time will tell, & we will eventually/ give the Germans a good belting. Just address/ my letters as usual, as I don't think I'll be here/ for long & if I am my mates will send them/ on. I gave them permission to keep any parcel/ you might forward on whilst I am away. It was/ awfully good of you to send the other thing along./ Hoping all are quite well./ I am/ Your Affectionate Nephew/ William E. Carroll. Cpl/ww1, battalion, aif, 815, sgt, carroll, e, 21st, 6th, brigade, 1st, dcm, wiiliam

The Ballarat School of Mines is a predecessor institution of Federation University Australia. Photocopied newsletters with numerous newspaper clippings. 20 June 1994 - Mission, Women's Policy, Kate Wait, Walter Haller, Stewart Moors, Cynthia Jardine, Mark Lynch, R.J. Young Scholarship, David Thomas 22 August 1994 - Wimmera Community College Agreement, SMB/University of Ballarat Affiliation Agreement Signed by Chancellor Geoffrey Blainey, Max Palmer, Matthew Barlow, Mark Dawe, Phillip Lee, John Conaughton, Elizabeth White 05 September 1994 - Employment White Paper, Workcover, Ross Furness, Nance Jeffreys, Keith Chase, Michael Ronaldson, Ron Wild, Paul Jenkins 25 October 1994 - Staff Consultation Committee, Bendix Mintex Award, Rick Williams, Mike Hickey, Sexual Harassment, Ann McCaffrey, Brewery Complex building 07 November 1994 - Karpin Report, Edgar Bartrop Scholarship, Winsome McCaughey 13 June 1995 - Female Participation in TAFE, Lake Bolac Visit, Virginia Fenelon, Hairdressing, Ararat Community College, Brian MCLennan, Forestry Industry Contract, Ararat PRison Education, E.J.T. Tippett Award, Shane Lake, SMB Graduates 1995, Tony Leonard, Colin McCurry, Steph Pilmore 26 June 1995 - Child Care Centre, computer survey responses, Ellimatta, Sharna Whitehand, Jack Veeken, John Hanmer, Aaron Block, Kirsten Martin, Rowena Worth, Jan Croggon, Andrew McEvoy 24 July 1995 - Teaching, Engineering Liaison, Graham Shearer, Carol Durant, Brian McLennan, Market Research, Ararat Campus, Kevin Martin, Myrtle Muir, Hairdressing, Carol McDonald 07 August 1995 - Childcare, Playgroup, Disabilities, Judy Mills, Former Ballarat Gaol, Private Providers, Equal Opportunity, Equal Employment Opportunity 04 September 1995 - Keith Boast, Barkly Street Campus Library, Barrie Firth, Yuille Street Building, Painting and Decorating, Bricklaying, Disability Forum Committee, Belinda Morgan, Fay Guinane, Olivia Guinane, Robert Clarke Community Centre ceramic Tile Mosaic, Neville French, Annelies Egan, Judith Davies, Tanis Yuille, Margaret Komishon, Ruth Zegir, Ray Isaac 18 September - Competition Policy, Public Sector Reform, Brewery Building contract to S.J. Weir, Ararat Campus, BHP, Peter Bell, Mining Industry, Horticulture Facility (Gillies Street), Creche Fairy Mural, Shellagh Kentish, Daylesford Neighbourhood House and Learning Centre, Jenny Beacham, Tom Bates, Colin Trembath, Alan Scanosio, Zaiga Svanosio 16 October 1995 - Rural Studies Staffing, Robyn Greig, Ross Holton, Virginia Fenelon, Michelle Loader, Christina Elshaug, Cynthia Jardine, Morgan B. John death, Ian Pym, Melissa Cameron, hairdressing, Woolshed, Great Southern Woolshed, Graham Shearer October 1995 - Employment Relations Update, Enterprise Bargaining, Sue Wright, Ron Wild 30 October 1995 - 125th anniversary, 125th anniversary Medallions, Bill Murray (died 28 October 1995), Metal Fabrication, Ron Wild, Gael Ramsay, Paul Keating 20 November 1995 - Ceramics Exhibition, Heather Campbell, Marion Byass, Barry Norman, Helen Knowles, Michael Bracher, Brian McLennan, Rural Studies, Carpark, David Nicholson, Linetter Penhall, Suzanne Brown, Marie Bedggood 27 May 1996 - David Brown Farewell, Keith Boast, Educational Services, Wally Gradkowski, Dzintra Crocker, World Wide Web, Ann McCaffrey 17 June 1996 - Lifelong Learning Through Vocational Education and Training, Lyndal Cooper, Engineering Studies, David Manterfield, Rod MacKinney 19 August 1996 - SMB Strategic Plan 1997-2001, Ian Harris, Ararat Prison Education, Moongate 06 September 1996 - Tom Johnson, Bill Gribble, Ron Wild, INternational Projects Report, Cas Anderson, Court House Theatre, Former Court House, The Moongate 11 November 1996 - Brewery Complex Opening by Prime Minister John Howard on 09 December 1996, Human Resources, Marie Kerr, Fran Kisler, Karen Neale, Trudy Horwoood, Graham Hankin, Engineering Studies, David Manerfied, Sheilagh Kentish, Goroke College 12 May 1997 - Ballarat Group Training, Ballarat Aboriginal Co-operative, SMB Flexible Learning Centre, E.J. Tippett Library, Changing Role of the TAFE Teacher, Maree Greig, Colin Prowse, Performing Arts, Dave Knowles, Karyn Kilroy 20 August 1997 - Amalgamation Update, Graham Paynter, Heather MacLeod, Performing Arts 05 September 1997 - From TAFE to VET, Leoda Atkinson, Daniel James, Ararat campus, Mark Bevelander, computers, Craftsmanship Awards, Koorie Programs Unit, Deanne Jakiel, Stephen Burns, Women's Access Program, Internet 20 October 1997 - amalgamation update, Flexible Learning Centre, Andrea Bateman, Val D'Angri, Leoda Atkinson, Paul Mason, Andrea Bateman 10 November 1997 - Ballarat School of Mines/University of Ballarat Amalgamation, Shenzhen Polytechnic China, Videoconferencing, John Ferrier (Science), Performing Arts 08 December 1997 - Last Edition of Miners' Write Ron Wild, Brian McLennan, Max Palmer, Jeanetter John, Farewell to SMB, Time Capsuleminers write, ballarat school of mines, ron wild

Easter in Bendigo, Official Program1983. Premier Town Victoria 1982-85. Easter In Bendigo '83 Welcome to the 1983 Easter Fair. This is a special time for Bendigo. . . The Fair has a long history bating back to 1871. . . Bendigo Base Hospital, Home and Hospital for the Aged or Benevolent Asylum. . . Back in the 1800s. Gone are the days of the ladies' Fancy Bazaar, Fat Baby Contest, Greasy Pig Chase. . . Many old traditions remain. . . Bendigo's links with the Chinese community go back to the dates when the first settlers arrived seeking gold. The Chinese took a very active part in the fist Fair. . . Monday Procession has always been the most famous as many old photographs show. Some of these photos date back before the turn of the century. In those days many people made the journey to Bendigo by train from Melbourne or by horse and buggy from outlying districts.. . ''Sun Loong'', or ''New Dragon''. . . Horse and Harness Parade a great success each tear attracted an immense variety of horses and horse drawn vehicles. . . Torchlight Procession on Sunday Sports Carnival Fireworks. . . Easter Monday requires precise planning and discipline if it is to run smoothly. A volunteer committee meets through the year to see that this happens. The Popular Girl Contest was introduced in 1930, the four main Streets of Bendigo, Pall Mall, Mitchell Street, Hargreaves Street and Williamson Street (formerly View Street), sponsored a popular girl by means of fund raising events. Winner was announced from the Shamrock Hotel balcony Easter Saturday night by the Mayor of Bendigo. The contest is still being held. . . The Shamrock Hotel now fully restored and reopened. . . Sunday night special ceremony, in time for the winning Popular Girl to take pride of place in the Procession. . . The accent is on the cycling. The Easter sports Carnival dates back to the beginning of the Fair in 1871, seven years before the start of the famous Stawell Gift. Sid. Paterson, Hubert Opperman. . . Golden Mile Wheelrace, the final on Monday night. AFT Amateur Madison, woodchopping, boomerang throwing and gala fireworks Sunday and Monday. This year for the first time the Golden Mile goes Pro/Am, an Open event for the first time. This could see the first clash between Danny Clark and Kenrick Tucker. Hopefully Michael Grenda, Tony Hughes, Michael Turtur will also be starters against leading professionals, Terry Hammond, Murray Hall and Ross Forster. The Golden Mile has been conducted every year since 1956 when it was won by John McDonough. Ron Grenda (Tas) won in 1959, Barry Waddell was the first scratchman to win in 1962 and Frank McCaig (Bendigo) has won the event three times in 1963/5/7. The event carries total prize money of $3000 making it (with Wangaratta Wheelrace) the richest Wheelrace in Provincial Victoria. . . Newly completed Hargreaves Mall being a focus for all this activity. . . Rotary Art Show and Easter Fair Society amalgamated their art shows resulting in a combined exhibition of outstanding quality, since then the Rotary Club has added the Antique Fair. The Handcraft Bazaars, a more sophisticated version of the bazaars of old, offers. . . The Bathtub Derby at Lake Weeroona, Music Festival at Queen Elizabeth Oval. . . Easter Fair of 1871 was almost washed out. . . Necessary top abandon the ''Golden Mile'' Wheelrace on two occasions 1960 & 1979. . . 1983 Official Programme, Good Friday April 1, Saturday April 2, Sunday April 3, Monday April 4, Tuesday April 5. . . Holy Week Ecumenical Services: . . The Chinese And The Bendigo Easter Fair, 3 pages on the history of the chinese involvment in the Bendigo Easter Fair. . . A Little Of Dragons: brief history on chinese and dragons. Sun Loong, Yar Loong. The Birth Of A Dragon: In China a story of the birth of a Dragon. . . Such Trial was set a group of Bendigo Businessmen led by Mr A Guy and comprising MR C Michelsen, Mr L Chon, Mr J Granter, Mr J Henderson, Mr B Andres. In 1969 they formed the ''Loong 100 Committee''. The purpose of the committee was to purchase a dragon to replace the ageing Loong, from donations raised. But who could build a worthy successor to the Great Loong? In Hong Kong a 47 year old dragon builder whose traditions and craft came from the famous dragon building city of Fat Shan on the Pearl River, near Canton where Loong was born. Mr Law On created the famous Sun Loong in his tiny 4x4 metre workshop in Hong Kong. . . 1970 Sun Loong was blessed and brought to life by 101 year old Mr James Lew, dotting his eyes with chicken blood. . . To Awaken A Dragon Dragons tend to sleep a lot and are quiet deaf. . . The Dragon is blessed and fed with pomolo leaves then the process of wakening begins with drums. . . 5000 crackers. The Easter Monday Chinese Procession have a long and varied history in China. The Bendigo Procession is no exception to this. In recent years much research has gone into . . The Procession may be divided into six sections. . . Dragon built in 1969 First Displayed in 1970, length-300ft plus, Extra 100ft added in 1980, number carrying: Head 1 plus 5 releifs, Neck 3, Body 52 plus 52 reliefs, head weight 63 lbs. tail weight 36 lbs.. Scales 4,500 approx. Mirrors 90,000 fins 50, beads 30,000 approx. . . Conclusion. . . Advertisements: Bendigo Pottery, Square Deal Cars, Bob Bell of Borough Bricklaying Pty Ltd, Pinups Wine Bar, Cumberland Hotel, Manchester Arms Hotel, British & American Hotel, Langley Hall BYO Restaurant, White Horse Hotel, Ascot Lodge Caravan Park, The Lemonade Factory, The Pepper Pot, M & M J Meade Mobil, Lakeview Motor Inn Restaurant, Truffles Restaurant, Marong Hotel, 4 Penny Dark BYO Restaurant, Chaplin's Coffee Shoppe, Copper Pot Restaurant, Skins of Australia, Central Deborah Gold Mine, Chris Wall Auto Sales, Brian Boru Hotel, The Green Carnation, Sandhurst Town, Dragon Court BYO Chinese Restaurant, Australian Fixed Trust Investors Services Ltd., The Mohair Farm, Bendigo Model Railroaders, Mexican Kitchen Restaurant, BP Super Shops, Coke, Southern Cross TV8.event, easter fair, bendigo easter fair society, easter in bendigo, official program1983. premier town victoria 1982-85. easter bendigo '83 welcome to the 1983 easter fair. this is a special time for bendigo. . . the fair has a long history bating back to 1871. . . bendigo base hospital, home and hospital for the aged or benevolent asylum. . . back in the 1800s ladies' fancy bazaar, fat baby contest, greasy pig chase. . . many old traditions. . . bendigo's links with chinese the first settlers arrived seeking gold. the chinese took a very active part in the fist fair. . . monday procession the most famous as many photographs show, the turn of the century. many people journey to bendigo from melbourne & from outlying districts.. . ''sun loong'', or ''new dragon''. . . horse and harness parade an immense variety of horses, horse drawn vehicles. . . torchlight procession on sunday sports carnival fireworks. . . easter monday precise planning and discipline to run smoothly. a volunteer committee meets through the year. the popular girl contest introduced in 1930, sponsored a popular girl by means of fund raising events. winner announced from shamrock hotel balcony easter saturday night by the mayor. . . the shamrock hotel now reopened. . . sunday night special ceremony, in time for the winning popular girl to take pride in the procession. . . accent is on the cycling. the easter sports carnival dates back to fair in 1871, seven years before stawell gift. sid. paterson, hubert opperman. . . golden mile wheelrace, final on monday night. aft amateur madison, woodchopping, boomerang throwing, gala fireworks sunday& monday. for the first time golden mile goes pro/am. danny clark and kenrick tucker. michael grenda, tony hughes, michael turtur will also be starters against leading professionals, terry hammond, murray hall and ross forster. the golden mile has been conducted every year since 1956, won john mcdonough. ron grenda (tas) won 1959, barry waddell the first scratchman to win 1962, frank mccaig (bendigo) has won 1963/5/7. prize money of $3000 making it (with wangaratta wheelrace) the richest wheelrace in provincial victoria. . . newly completed hargreaves mall. . . rotary art show and easter fair society amalgamated art shows, antique fair. handcraft bazaars, . . the bathtub derby lake weeroona, music festival queen elizabeth oval. . . easter fair of 1871 was almost washed out. . . necessary top abandon the ''golden mile'' wheelrace on two occasions 1960 & 1979. . . 1983 official programme, good friday april 1, saturday april 2, sunday april 3, monday april 4, tuesday april 5. . . holy week ecumenical services: . . chinese and the bendigo easter fair, . dragons: brief history. sun loong, yar loong. in china a story of the birth of a dragon. . . bendigo businessmen mr a guy, mr c michelsen, mr l chon, mr j granter, mr j henderson, mr b andres. 1969 formed ''loong 100 committee'' purchase a dragon to replace ageing loong, donations raised. build successor great loong? hong kong dragon builder traditions craft came from dragon building city fat shan on the pearl river, canton where loong was born. mr law on created the famous sun loong in his tiny 4x4 metre workshop in hong kong. . . 1970 sun loong was blessed and brought to life by 101 year old mr james lew, dotting his eyes with chicken blood. . . to awaken a dragon dragons tend to sleep a lot and are quiet deaf. . .dragon is blessed fed with pomolo leaves wakening begins with drums. . . 5000 crackers. the easter monday chinese procession have a long and varied history in china. the bendigo procession is no exception to this. in recent years much research has gone into… procession may be divided into six sections. dragon 1969 first displayed in 1970, length-300ft plus, extra 100ft added in 1980, number carrying: head 1 plus 5 releifs, neck 3, body 52 plus 52 reliefs, head weight 63 lbs. tail 36 lbs.. scales 4, 500 approx. mirrors 90, 000 fins 50, beads 30, 000 approx. advertisements: bendigo pottery, square deal cars, bob bell of borough bricklaying pty ltd, pinups wine bar, cumberland hotel, manchester arms hotel, british & american hotel, langley hall byo restaurant, white horse hotel, ascot lodge caravan park, the lemonade factory, the pepper pot, m & m j meade mobil, lakeview motor inn restaurant, truffles restaurant, marong hotel, 4 penny dark byo restaurant, chaplin's coffee shoppe, copper pot restaurant, skins of australia, central deborah gold mine, chris wall auto sales, brian boru hotel, the green carnation, sandhurst town, dragon court byo chinese restaurant, australian fixed trust investors services ltd., mohair farm, bendigo model railroaders, mexican kitchen restaurant, bp super shops, coke, southern cross tv8.