A colour photograph of a view of Marysville in Victoria.A colour photograph of a view of Marysville in Victoria. The photograph has been taken from one of the many lookouts that surround Marysville.Panorama of Marysville with Black Range in background. Colorscans MARYSVILLE - VICTORIA Panorama of Marysville with Black/ Range in background. c PUBLISHED & PRINTED BY COLORSCAPES PUBLISHING PTY LTD 118-120 BRIGHTON STREET RICHMOND 3121 Supa-vu/ cards Photographed and Distributed by:/ K. & H. ELLIS - 35 Old Warburton Road/ Warburton 3799 20-1-81/ Dear Mum/ Just a line/ to let you know we/ have settled in here./ Its a nice park not to/ big, with a river in/ behind the van. (its/ more like a swift/ running creek, the/ kids are really enjoying/ it. There are plenty of/ walks to go on, up here/ tracks everywhere./ Hows the cooler going/ keeping you cool?/ We are able to say here until/ Sunday./ See you Mum/ Love Lois, Tom,/ & Kids. Mrs A. McTaggart/ 2 Frederick Street/ Kyabram Vic/ 3620. On reverse of postcard are 5 black marks; one in each corner and one in the centre from where the postcard has been removed from an album.marysville, victoria, postcard, souvenir, k & h ellis, colorscans publishing

A postcard in a series produced by the Rose Stereograph Company in Victoria, Australia as a souvenir of Marysville.A colour photograph of the view of Marysville in Victoria from Keppel Lookout. Keppel Lookout is named after the Keppel Family who were one of Marysville's earliest pioneering families. The Rose Series postcard No. 3526.POST CARD The "Rose" Series/ De Luxe Proudly Printed in/ Australia Since 1880 AFFIX/ STAMP/ HERE/ Rose Series/ Post Card No./ 3526 ADDRESS/ Nancy Oliver/ 14/150 Tyabb Road/ Mornington/ Victoria 3931/ POSTCODE Keppel Lookout/ MARYSVILLE, VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA/ Photo Neil Cutts Copyright Rose Stereograph Co., Glen Waverley, Victoria (03) 9560 7772 MaryLyn - Marysville/ 10.03.2002 Dear Nancy/ First I want to/ thank you for nice cards/ get well, and others very/ much indeed. We miss/ you not coming here but I hope/ you enjoyed where you went/ Nancy as usual Mary Lyn/ is a nice place to enjoy and/ to feel relaxed and friendly/ in every way. Weather has been/ cool and pleasant with some/ few hot days to enjoy and to/ remind us of summer - not/ many here at/ present more coming./ Our love to/ all we know/ and love to your/ dear self hope/ to see you next/ time Sarina & Eric marysville, victoria, keppel lookout, postcard, souvenir, rose stereograph co, 3526

This crucible was raised from the wreck of the Loch Ard. It is one of six similar relics, in a range of sizes, now in the Flagstaff Hill collection. All were manufactured by the Morgan brothers who founded the Patent Plumbago Crucible Company in 1856, making crucibles in a small factory in Battersea London. A crucible is a container used for purifying and melting metals so that they can be cast in a mold to a predetermined shape and use. They must withstand extremely high temperatures, abrupt cooling, and shed their contents with minimal adherence. The addition of graphite to the traditional firing clays greatly enhanced the durability of industrial crucibles this technique was pioneered by the Morgan Bros thereby making a significant technological advance in foundry technology and metallurgy. The Morgans first noticed the advantages of graphite crucibles at the Great Exhibition held in London in 1851. Initially, they contracted to be sole selling agents for the American-made products of Joseph Dixon and Co. from New Jersey, but in 1856 they obtained that firm's manufacturing rights and began producing their graphite crucibles from the South London site. The Morgans imported crystalline graphite in 4-5 cwt casks from the British colony of Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) and mixed it with conventional English (Stourbridge) clays to be fired in kilns. Their products were purchased by the Royal Mints in London and India and exported to official mints in France and Germany. They were successful exhibitors of their crucibles and furnaces at the London Exhibition held in 1861 (Class 1, Mining, quarrying, metallurgy and mineral products, Exhibit 265, Patent Plumbago Crucible Co). The range of sizes represented by the six crucibles retrieved from the Loch Ard suggests they may have been part of a sample shipment intended for similar promotion in the Australian colonies or at Melbourne's International Exhibition to be held in 1880. A newspaper account of an 1864 tour of the Morgan brothers' 'Black Potteries' at Battersea indicates: "All the pots were numbered according to their contents, each number standing for one kilogram, or a little over two pounds; a No. 2 crucible contains two kilograms; a No. 3, three kilograms, and so on." These numbers are obscured by marine sediment on three of the crucibles in the Flagstaff Hill collection, but those legible on the remaining three are 5, 6, and 8. None of the six is of the same size. (For more information on the Loch Ard wreck see note sec this document) The shipwreck of the Loch Ard is of significance for Victoria and is registered on the Victorian Heritage Register ( S 417). Flagstaff Hill has a varied collection of artefacts from Loch Ard and its collection is significant for being one of the largest accumulation of artefacts from this notable Victorian shipwreck of which the crucible is a small part. The collections objects give us a snapshot of how we can interpret the story of this tragic event. The collection is also archaeologically significant as it represents aspects of Victoria's shipping history that allows us to interpret Victoria's social and historical themes of the time. Through is associated with the worst and best-known shipwreck in Victoria's history.A medium size crucible, or fluxing pot, for heating and pouring molten metal. The container rises in a slight curve from a smaller flat base to a wider open top with a lip for pouring. It was recovered from the wreck of the LOCH ARD. The crucible has a coating of sediment that obscures its numerical specifications of size and capacity. The markings that remain visible indicate it is a Morgan’s crucible, made with graphite to prevent cracking and provide a smooth non-adhesive inner surface. .On base: “…ORGAN’S …ENT”flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, graphite crucible, plumbago crucible, morgan's crucible company, loch ard, morgan potteries, crucible, fluxing pot

There are two distinct types of milk consumption: a natural source of nutrition for all infant mammals and a food product for humans of all ages that is derived from other animals. Milk is a key contributor to improving nutrition and food security particularly in developing countries. Improvements in livestock and dairy technology offer significant promise in reducing poverty and malnutrition in the world. Pasteurization is used to kill harmful micro-organisms by heating the milk for a short time and then immediately cooling it. In the past, milk was always packaged in glass milk bottles The first glass bottle packaging for milk was used in the 1870s. The first company to do so may have been the New York Dairy Company in 1877 with a small glass lid and a tin clip. Lewis P. Whiteman holds the first patent for a glass milk bottle c1884,which was sealed with a waxed paper disk. The Express Dairy Company in England began glass bottle production in 1880. Melbourne Glass Bottle Works Spotswood 1880 - 1990. Milk cartons first came to Australia in 1958, when the Model Dairy in Melbourne began packaging milk in 150 ml and 500 ml cartons. At the time, 160,000 new glass bottles were needed in Melbourne alone every week to keep up the delivery of 1.3 million bottles of milk a day. n 1970, the blow-moulded disposable plastic milk bottle was introduced. In 1987, only about 2% of milk was still being sold in glass bottles. Glass milk bottles are now rare .Melbourne Glass Bottle Works Co Pty Ltd (1903 - 1915) Registered in Victoria in 1903 the company amalgamated with the Waterloo Glass Bottle Works Ltd in 1915 to form Australian Glass Manufacturers Company, Limited. Melbourne Glass bottle works Spotswood 1872- 1915 The Melbourne Glass Bottle Works (former), comprising a complex of buildings constructed between 1880 and 1940, at Booker Street, Douglas Parade, 2-38 Hudson Road, Raleigh Street and Simcock Avenue, Spotswood. The former glassworks was established in 1890 and originally made bottles for pharmacists Felton Grimwade before it was sold to the state government by US multinational, OI glass manufacturers A clear glass 4 oz bottle for PURA Creamery Carnegie. . A waxed cardboard disc lid from Devonshire Dairy Hepburn Springs is not related to this bottle but is an example of the typical lid used during this period Bottle : PURA / CREAMERY / CARNEGIE / CONTENTS 4 OZS Base : 120 Lid circumference : DEVONSHIRE DAIRY HEPBURN SPRINGS:/ Lid centre: PURE MILK/ T.B. TESTED COWS / PHONE 223 melbourne glass bottle works, spotswood melbourne, milk, dairy, dairy produce, dairy farmers, market gardeners, pioneers, early settlers, moorabbin, cheltenham, pasteur louis, pasteurization, pura creamery carnegie, devonshire dairy, hepburn springs, waxed paper milk bottle lids, felton grimwade co ltd,

This is the program for a University of Ballarat Performing Arts presentation of Twelfth Night by William Shakespeare, in 2006, performed by third year Graduate Bachelor of Arts (Acting) students. Director: Kim Durban; Design: John Bennett, Loris Button, Dan Cooling; Lighting Design: Michele Preshaw. The venue was Post Office Box Theatre, Camp Street Ballarat. Dates: June 14 16 at 8pm; June 17 at 2pm and 8pm and June 18th at 5pm. Kim Durban initially trained as a teacher in South Australia, then as a director at the Victorian College of the Arts in Melbourne.In 1990 Kim was awarded the Ewa Czajor Memorial Award for study in Europe. She was the recipient of an Australia Council Training Artistic Directors grant , working Artisiic Associate at Playbox 1994-95. During her Masters studies she received the Yvonne Taylor Award for Directors. In 2001 , Kim was appointed Senior Lecturer in Performing Arts at the University of Ballarat where her productions have included The White Rose, Sweet Charity, 42nd Street, Chekhov in Black and White, A Midsummer Night's Dream, The Night Before The Day After Tomorrow, Kiss Me Kate, All's Well That Ends Well, Richard the Third and On the Town. Synopsis: Sebastian and Viola are twins who are shipwrecked. Separately they find their way to the land of Illyria, both believing that the other had perished. Viola dresses herself as a boy (called Cesario) and enters the service of Count Orsino who asks 'him' to woo Olivia on his behalf. However Olivia falls for Cesario who has fallen in love with Orsino. A subplot involves two drunken knights, Sir Toby and Sir Andrew, a self important steward, Malvolio, a clown , a forged letter and a pair of yellow stockings. The back page of the program shows an advertisement for a performance of Eugene Iomesco's "The Killing Game"; Director Greg Stone, presented by The University of Ballarat Arts Academy for November, 2006, at The Theatreworks. Eugene Iomesco (1909-1994) was a Romanian born French playwright. The program also contains a promotion for a performance titled "Telling Tales An Evening of Subterfuge and Intrigue" presented by Ballarat National Theatre, to be held in June/July 2006 at the Courthouse Theatre.. Fourteen page booklet containing information about three plays: 'Twelfth Night'; 'The Killing Game' and Telling Tales "An Evening of Subterfuge and Intrigue". Program contents for Twelfth Night: Cast: Synopsis; Director; Guest Artist; Performers; Artistic Team and Production Team. The front cover has the outline of a red tree on a black starlit sky. The back cover is black and red and is advertising a coming production in November, 2006, 'the Killing game.twelfth night, university of ballarat performing arts academy, john bennett, loris button, dan cooling, michele preshaw, post office box theatre, shakespeare, william shakespeare, kim durban

This brand of starch was first manufactured in 1914, during the First World War, and continued to cover the other wars and military conflicts that followed. It was a time when Australian made was important due to the limited supplies coming from England and Europe. This was a period when the demand for "home grown" produce was at its peak. This was in a time when by necessity not by the "Buy Australian" campaign (of later years) which was the major factor for the demand of goods. It was in a time when starch was used in formal clothing to put a "crisp" or fresh new appearance for clothes. The important social more of "clothes make the person" was in vogue.This box which once contained starch powder is very significant to a rural semi isolated region because it clearly demonstrates that the social mores of the city were also entrenched into the rural population. The fashion of the day, even in remote areas, especially rural, were still a requirement to be maintained on certain special occasions. Cleanliness and stiff "upper lip" persona were just as important in the rural sector as in city and Government circles. Institutions such as hospitals, Government Offices and the legal personnel were bound by the fashion of the starch appearance (no dirt sticks to a personage with the "starch" look). Appearances, especially the first ones, were the judgmental image that remained in the uppermost regions of the viewer. This box with white writing and a "formally clad" man on a navy blue background held Australian grown maize based starch powder(1 LB gross). The package is made from 200 gsm thick cardboard. As production was made during the two World Wars 1914 to 1945 the promotion was heavily focused on Australian made and Australian grown maize.The same cover both front and back, "DANDY" below this a figure outlined in white on a navy blue background "hat and tails" outfit. Next to the sketch in smaller lettering" STRONGER THAN OTHER STARCHES. LESS REQUIRED". Below the figure "GLOSS" and below this in larger print "STARCH". Below this and in smaller print "CONTENTS. NETT WEIGHT 14 1/2 ozs" Below this and in smaller print "MANUFACTURED BY MAIZE PRODUCTS PTY LTD FOOTSCRAY VICTORIA" On one side of the box and in large white print on royal blue background"PURITY, STRENGTH AND UNIFORMITY." On the other side are the manufacturers directions. On the left side "FOR RAW STARCH" Underneath and in smaller print,"Dissolve in warm water a quantity to give the required thickness. Add bluing if required Stir before each using. On the right side "FOR BOILING STARCH" underneath this in small print"Mix well in small quantity of cold water to creamy consistency. Add boiling water, and stir constantly while cooking. Allow to cool, and add blueing if required. Underneath these two sets of instructions is "Make your consistency thinner than if using another kind of Starch"household starch, household cleaning, domestic laundering.

Before factory production became commonplace in medicine, dispensing was considered an art and pill and suppository machines such as these were a vital component of any chemist’s collection. This mould dates back to the days when the local chemist or apothecary bought, sold, and manufactured all his own drugs and medicines to everybody who lived within the local community. In Victorian times, there was no such thing as off-the-shelf medicine. Every tablet, pill, suppository, ointment, potion, lotion, tincture and syrup to treat anything from a sore throat to fever, headaches or constipation, was made laboriously by hand, by the chemist. Some medicines are formulated to be used in the body cavities: the suppository (for the rectum), the pessary (for the vagina) and the bougie (for the urethra or nose). History Suppositories, pessaries and bougies have been prescribed for the last 2000 years but their popularity as a medicinal form increased from around 1840 - suppositories for constipation, haemorrhoids and later as an alternative method of drug administration, pessaries for vaginal infections and bougies for infections of the urethra, prostate, bladder or nose. Manufacture The basic method of manufacture was the same for each preparation, the shape differed. Suppositories were "bullet" or "torpedo" shaped, pessaries "bullet" shaped but larger and bougieslong and thin, tapering slightly. A base was required that would melt at body temperature. Various oils and fats have been utilised but, until the advent of modern manufactured waxes, the substances of choice were theobroma oil (cocoa butter) and a glycerin-gelatin mixture. The base was heated in a spouted pan over a water-bath until just melted. The medicament was rubbed into a little of the base (usually on a tile using a spatula) and then stirred into the rest. The melted mass was then poured into the relevant mould. Moulds were normally in two parts, made from stainless steel or brass (silver or electroplated to give a smooth surface). To facilitate removal the moulds were treated with a lubricant such as oil or soap solution. To overcome the difficulty of pouring into the long, thin bougie mould, it was usual to make a larger quantity of base, to partially unscrew the mould, fill with base and then screw the two halves of the mould together thus forcing out the excess. When cool, any excess base was scraped from the top of the mould, the mould opened and the preparations removed, packed and labelled with the doctor's instructions. https://www.rpharms.com/Portals/0/MuseumLearningResources/05%20Suppositories%20Pessaries%20and%20Bougies.pdf?ver=2020-02-06-154131-397The collection of medical instruments and other equipment in the Port Medical Office is culturally significant, being an historical example of medicine from late 19th to mid-20th century.Proctological mould for making suppositories.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, suppositories, medicine, health

Before factory production became commonplace in medicine, dispensing was considered an art and pill and suppository machines such as these were a vital component of any chemist’s collection. This mould dates back to the days when the local chemist or apothecary bought, sold, and manufactured all his own drugs and medicines to everybody who lived within the local community. In Victorian times, there was no such thing as off-the-shelf medicine. Every tablet, pill, suppository, ointment, potion, lotion, tincture and syrup to treat anything from a sore throat to fever, headaches or constipation, was made laboriously by hand, by the chemist. Some medicines are formulated to be used in the body cavities: the suppository (for the rectum), the pessary (for the vagina) and the bougie (for the urethra or nose). History Suppositories, pessaries and bougies have been prescribed for the last 2000 years but their popularity as a medicinal form increased from around 1840 - suppositories for constipation, haemorrhoids and later as an alternative method of drug administration, pessaries for vaginal infections and bougies for infections of the urethra, prostate, bladder or nose. Manufacture The basic method of manufacture was the same for each preparation, the shape differed. Suppositories were "bullet" or "torpedo" shaped, pessaries "bullet" shaped but larger and bougieslong and thin, tapering slightly. A base was required that would melt at body temperature. Various oils and fats have been utilised but, until the advent of modern manufactured waxes, the substances of choice were theobroma oil (cocoa butter) and a glycerin-gelatin mixture. The base was heated in a spouted pan over a water-bath until just melted. The medicament was rubbed into a little of the base (usually on a tile using a spatula) and then stirred into the rest. The melted mass was then poured into the relevant mould. Moulds were normally in two parts, made from stainless steel or brass (silver or electroplated to give a smooth surface). To facilitate removal the moulds were treated with a lubricant such as oil or soap solution. To overcome the difficulty of pouring into the long, thin bougie mould, it was usual to make a larger quantity of base, to partially unscrew the mould, fill with base and then screw the two halves of the mould together thus forcing out the excess. When cool, any excess base was scraped from the top of the mould, the mould opened and the preparations removed, packed and labelled with the doctor's instructions. https://www.rpharms.com/Portals/0/MuseumLearningResources/05%20Suppositories%20Pessaries%20and%20Bougies.pdf?ver=2020-02-06-154131-397The collection of medical instruments and other equipment in the Port Medical Office is culturally significant, being an historical example of medicine from late 19th to mid-20th century.Proctological mould for making suppositories.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, suppositories, medicine, health

This crucible was raised from the wreck of the LOCH ARD. It is one of six similar relics, in a range of sizes, now in the Flagstaff Hill collection. All bear markings to indicate their manufacture by the Morgan brothers of Battersea, trading as the Patent Plumbago Crucible Co. A crucible is a container used for purifying and melting metals so that they can be cast in a mould to a predetermined shape and use. They must withstand extremely high temperatures, abrupt cooling, and shed their contents with minimal adherence. The addition of graphite to the traditional firing clays greatly enhanced the durability of industrial crucibles in mid-Victorian Britain, a significant technological advance at a time of great activity in foundries and expansion of demand for refined metals. The Morgans first noticed the advantages of graphite crucibles at the Great Exhibition held in London in 1851. Initially they contracted to be sole selling agents for the American-made products of Joseph Dixon and Co. from New Jersey, but in 1856 they obtained that firm’s manufacturing rights and began producing their own graphite crucibles from the South London site. The Morgans imported crystalline graphite in 4-5 cwt casks from the British colony of Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) and mixed it with conventional English (Stourbridge) clays to be fired in kilns. Their products were purchased by the Royal Mints in London and India, and exported to official mints in France and Germany. They were successful exhibitors of their crucibles and furnaces at the London Exhibition held in 1861 (Class 1, Mining, quarrying, metallurgy and mineral products, Exhibit 265, Patent Plumbago Crucible Co). The range of sizes represented by the six crucibles retrieved from the LOCH ARD, suggest they may have been part of a sample shipment intended for similar promotion in the Australian colonies ― at Melbourne’s International Exhibition to be held in 1880. The summary of cargo manifest, by Don Charlwood in ‘Wrecks and Reputations’ does not mention any crucibles, implying that they were not a large consignment of uniform items. A newspaper account of an 1864 tour of the Morgan brothers’ ‘Black Potteries’ at Battersea indicates: “All the pots were numbered according to their contents, each number standing for one kilogram, or a little over two pounds; a No. 2 crucible contains two kilogrammes; a No. 3, three kilogrammes, and so on.” These numbers are obscured by marine sediment on three of the crucibles in the Flagstaff Hill collection, but those legible on the remaining three are 5, 6, and 8. None of the six are of the same size from a visual appraisal.The shipwreck of the LOCH ARD is of State significance ― Victorian Heritage Register S417A large crucible, or fluxing pot, for heating and pouring molten metal. It was recovered from the wreck of the LOCH ARD. The clay fired vessel rises from circular flat base to a larger rim with pouring lip. It is stained a rust colour and bears some sedimentary accretion. Half of its loose fitting lid with central knob has also survived. Markings on the artefact indicate it is a Morgan’s crucible, made with graphite to prevent cracking in the furnace and provide a smooth (non-adhesive) inner surface. On base: “…RGAN’S PATENT CRUCIBLE”. On rim: “MORGAN’S PATENT P…” Below top edge "BAK"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, graphite crucible, plumbago crucible, morgans crucible company, loch ard, fluxing pot, crucible

This crucible was raised from the wreck of the LOCH ARD. It is one of six similar relics, in a range of sizes, now in the Flagstaff Hill collection. All bear markings to indicate their manufacture by the Morgan brothers of Battersea, trading as the Patent Plumbago Crucible Co. A crucible is a container used for purifying and melting metals so that they can be cast in a mould to a predetermined shape and use. They must withstand extremely high temperatures, abrupt cooling, and shed their contents with minimal adherence. The addition of graphite to the traditional firing clays greatly enhanced the durability of industrial crucibles in mid-Victorian Britain, a significant technological advance at a time of great activity and expansion in foundries and demand for refined metals. The Morgans first noticed the advantages of graphite crucibles at the Great Exhibition held in London in 1851. Initially they contracted to be sole selling agents for the American-made products of Joseph Dixon and Co. from New Jersey, but in 1856 they obtained that firm’s manufacturing rights and began producing their own graphite crucibles from the South London site. The Morgans imported crystalline graphite in 4-5 cwt casks from the British colony of Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) and mixed it with conventional English (Stourbridge) clays to be fired in kilns. Their products were purchased by the Royal Mints in London and India, and exported to official mints in France and Germany. They were successful exhibitors of their crucibles and furnaces at the London Exhibition held in 1861 (Class 1, Mining, quarrying, metallurgy and mineral products, Exhibit 265, Patent Plumbago Crucible Co). The range of sizes represented by the six crucibles retrieved from the LOCH ARD, suggest they may have been part of a sample shipment intended for similar promotion in the Australian colonies ― at Melbourne’s International Exhibition to be held in 1880. A summary of the LOCH ARD cargo manifest, by Don Charlwood in ‘Wrecks and Reputations’ does not mention any crucibles, implying that they were not part of a larger consignment of uniform items. A newspaper account of an 1864 tour of the Morgan brothers’ ‘Black Potteries’ at Battersea indicates: “All the pots were numbered according to their contents, each number standing for one kilogram, or a little over two pounds; a No. 2 crucible contains two kilogrammes; a No. 3, three kilogrammes, and so on.” These numbers are obscured by marine sediment on three of the crucibles in the Flagstaff Hill collection, but those legible on the remaining three are 5, 6, and 8. None of the six are of the same size from a visual appraisal. The shipwreck of the LOCH ARD is of State significance ― Victorian Heritage Register S417A No. 6 size Morgan’s graphite crucible (i.e. 6kgs capacity). The crucible rises in a slight curve from a smaller flat base up to a wider top with a (chipped) pouring lip. It was recovered from the wreck of the LOCH ARD. The artefact is largely accretion free despite its long period of submersion at the wreck site. It has a number of visible maker’s markings which identify the manufacturer and the smelting capacity of the pot. The graphite crucible is in fair and stable condition. The number “6” which is framed in a square. The letters “THE PATENT PLUMBAGO CRUCIBLE COMPANY” and “BATTERSEA WORKS COMPANY”. Below rim "... GNS"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, graphite crucible, plumbago crucible, morgan's crucible company, loch ard, crucible, fluxing pot

Feldspathic arenites are sandstones that contain less than 90% quartz, and more feldspar than unstable lithic fragments, and minor accessory minerals.Feldspathic sandstones are commonly immature or sub-mature.These sandstones occur in association with cratonic or stable shelf settings. Feldspathic sandstones are derived from granitic-type, primary crystalline, rocks. If the sandstone is dominantly plagioclase, then it is igneous in origin Sandstone features prominently in public buildings throughout Victoria. Most of the sandstone used as dimension stone in the State came from three sources: the Heatherlie quarry in the Grampians (Silurian), the Bacchus Marsh area (Permian), and the Barrabool Hills near Geelong (Cretaceous).Sandstone features prominently in public buildings throughout Victoria, making this specimen special as it shows the materials used by Victorian building companies. Sandstone can also be crushed, crushed stone is used in the construction of roadways and road structures such as bridges, and in buildings, both commercial and residential. This specimen is part of a larger collection of geological and mineral specimens collected from around Australia (and some parts of the world) and donated to the Burke Museum between 1868-1880. A large percentage of these specimens were collected in Victoria as part of the Geological Survey of Victoria that begun in 1852 (in response to the Gold Rush) to study and map the geology of Victoria. Collecting geological specimens was an important part of mapping and understanding the scientific makeup of the earth. Many of these specimens were sent to research and collecting organisations across Australia, including the Burke Museum, to educate and encourage further study. A feldspar-rich sandstone, a sandstone intermediate in composition between an arkosic sandstone and a quartz sandstone, containing 10% to 25% feldspar and less than 20% matrix material of clay, sericite, and chlorite. Feldspathic arenite containing less than 90 percent of the composition of quartz. Feldspar is the main composition. Feldspathic arenite may contain fragments of unstable rock, and a little amount of other minerals such as mica and heavy minerals. Some feldspathic arenite have pink or red color because of the presence of potassium feldspar or iron oxide. There are also colored light gray to white. These sandstones are usually medium to coarse grained and can contain a high percentage of granules with angular until subangular roundness. The content of the matrix can appear as the rest up to more than 15 percent, and sorting of grains can present as moderate to poorly sorted. Feldspathic sandstones are generally immature in textural maturity. Feldspathic arenite can not be judged from the structure of the sediment. Bedding can emerge from the laminate parallel to the crossbed. Fossils may appear in the layer deposited on the sea. Feldspathic arenites usually appear on the craton or the continental shelf, which can be associated with conglomerate, quartz lithic arenite, carbonate rock, or evaporites. This sandstone may also appear on the succession of sedimentary basins deposited on an unstable or deep sea, and moving arc setting. According to Pettijohn (1963) Arkose make up about 15 percent of all sandstones. Some Arkose formed in situ when the granite and related rocks disintegrate and generate granular sediments. Most of the material feldspathic sandstones derived from primary crystalline granitic rocks, such as granite or metasomatic rocks containing abundant potassium feldspar. Mineral contained in sandstones is mostly a form of plagioclase feldspar derived from quartz diorite or volcanic rock. Feldspar contained on this sandstone comes from arid to cool climates when the chemical weathering process is reduced.sandstone, natural stone, feldspathic sandstone, burke museum, geology, geological, geological specimen

Rodd's was established by George & Ernest Rodd in Melbourne in 1919.They were manufacturers and wholesalers of precious metal jewellery. Later they began to manufacture high quality silver plated cutlery under the brand name “Rodd”. They then expanded into holloware when they took over Platers Pty. Ltd. who produced a very high quality range of silver plated Sheffield Reproduction Silverware, under the brand name “Hecworth”. Rodd’s established a large factory at 150 Barkly St., St. Kilda, Melbourne. During WW2 with a staff some 200, the factory produced ordnance components to help with the war effort. Rodd’s established sales offices in the main city centres of all States. The company prospered. In December, 1960, Rodd [Australia] Ltd. was merged with Mytton’s Ltd., Melbourne, and became part of the newly formed company Mytton Rodd [Australia] Ltd. Mytton’s were also producers of silver plated cutlery under the brand name “Grosvenor” and were strong competitors to the Rodd brand of cutlery Australia wide. It was a friendly take over and the Directors of Rodd [Aust.] Ltd. were appointed to the board of Mytton Rodd [Aust.] Ltd., and some to the Holding Company Mytton’s Ltd. Mytton’s were heavy manufacturing engineers producing a large range of stainless steel products including: kitchen sinks of various design, beer barrels [9 and 18 gallon kegs] for the breweries, milk vats for cooling and storing milk on dairy farms, a large range of dairy and industrial vessels, road transport tanks, LPG tanks, low pressure pre-mix vessels for the soft drink industry. They also produced a range of domestic bathes, steel railway sleepers, using their 3000 ton hydraulic presses. Mytton’s also had their own non ferrous foundry and rolling mill which produced nickel silver sheet used in the manufacturer of their silver plated cutlery. They also produced copper sheet for their own and industrial use. Mytton’s had factories in York St., South Melbourne and Port Melbourne. Rodd [Aust.] Ltd. set up a manufacturing, distribution plant in Auckland, New Zealand, circa 1960. This company began producing precious metal jewellery in a rented space in the premises of Matthey Garret Ltd., Bullion Merchants, in Drake St., Auckland. Later they moved into their own building in Sale St., Auckland. The company prospered and purchased land and built a factory at 121 Apirana Ave. Glen Innes, Auckland, circa 1964. ( B. McCulloch Rodd Pty Ltd)A butter knife with stainless steel blade and bone handle c1930on blade; RODD / STAINLESScutlery, stainless steel, cheltenham, moorabbin, bentleigh, early settlers, rodd aust ltd, mytton rodd pty ltd, aukland, port melbourne

This handmade ‘gallon’ style of bottle was generally used for storing and transporting wine and ale. Many bottles similar to this one have their bases embossed with “6 TO THE GALLON”. It is one of many artefacts recovered from unidentified shipwrecks along Victoria’s coast between the late 1960s and the early 1970s. It is now part of the John Chance Collection. The capacity of this is one-sixth of a gallon (imperial measure), which is equal to 758 ml. (American bottles were often inscribed “5 TO THE GALLON”, which is one-fifth of an American gallon, equal to 757 ml.) Contemporary home brewers can purchase new ‘6 to gallon’ bottles that hold 750 ml. and are sold in cases of 36 bottles, which is equal to 6 gallons of wine. Glass was made thousands of years ago by heating together quartz-sand (Silica), lime and potash. Potash was obtained from burnt wood, but these days potash is mined. The natural sand had imperfections such as different forms of iron, resulting in ‘black’ glass, which was really dark green or dark amber colour. The ‘black’ glass was enhanced by residual carbon in the potash. Black glass is rarely used nowadays but most beer, wine, and liquors are still sold in dark coloured glass. Glass vessels were core-formed from around 1500 BC. An inner core with the vessel’s shape was formed around a rod using a porous material such as clay or dung. Molten glass was then modelled around the core and decorated. When the glass had cooled the vessel was immersed in water and the inner core became liquid and was washed out. Much more recently, bottlers were crafted by a glassblower using molten glass and a blow pipe together with other hand tools. Another method was using simple moulds, called dip moulds, that allowed the glass to be blown into the mould to form the base, then the glassblower would continue blowing free-form to shape the shoulders and neck. The bottle was then finished by applying a lip. These moulded bottles were more uniform in shape compared to the free-form bottles originally produced. English glassblowers in the mid-1800s were making some bottles with 2-piece and 3-piece moulds, some with a push-up style base, sometimes with embossing in the base as well. Improvements allowed the moulds to also have embossed and patterned sides, and straight sided shapes such as hexagons. Bottles made in full moulds usually displayed seam seams or lines. These process took skill and time, making the bottles valuable, so they were often recycled. By the early 20th century bottles were increasingly machine made, which greatly reduced the production time and cost. This bottle is historically significant as an example of a handmade, blown inscribed glass bottle manufactured in the mid-to-late 1800s for specific use as a liquor bottle with a set measurement of one-sixth of gallon. It is also historically significant as an example of liquor bottles imported into Colonial Victoria in the mid-to-late 1800s, giving a snapshot into history and social life that occurred during the early days of Victoria’s development, and the sea trade that visited the ports in those days. The bottle is also significant as one of a group of bottles recovered by John Chance, a diver in Victoria’s coastal waters in the late 1960s to early 1970s. Items that come from several wrecks have since been donated to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village’s museum collection of shipwreck artefacts by his family, illustrating this item’s level of historical value. Bottle, brown glass, handmade. Tall slim Gallon style liquor bottle. Applied, double collar lip; square upper with flared lower. Neck has seams and shoulder seam from 3-piece mould. Body with horizontal ripples tapers inwards to base. Push-up base with pontil mark and embossed inscription. Tape over wire around mouth. Cork remnants inside mouth. Embossed on base "6 TO THE GALLON"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck artefact, john chance, glass bottle, antique bottle, gallon bottle, 6 to the gallon bottle, handmade, dip mould, mouth blown, pontil mark, blown bottle, liquor bottle, ale bottle, double collar, 19th century bottle, collectable

This handmade ‘gallon’ style of bottle was generally used for storing and transporting wine and ale. Many bottles similar to this one have their bases embossed with “6 TO THE GALLON”. It is one of many artefacts recovered from unidentified shipwrecks along Victoria’s coast between the late 1960s and the early 1970s. It is now part of the John Chance Collection. The capacity of this is one-sixth of a gallon (imperial measure), which is equal to 758 ml. (American bottles were often inscribed “5 TO THE GALLON”, which is one-fifth of an American gallon, equal to 757 ml.) Contemporary home brewers can purchase new ‘6 to gallon’ bottles that hold 750 ml. and are sold in cases of 36 bottles, which is equal to 6 gallons of wine. Glass was made thousands of years ago by heating together quartz-sand (Silica), lime and potash. Potash was obtained from burnt wood, but these days potash is mined. The natural sand had imperfections such as different forms of iron, resulting in ‘black’ glass, which was really dark green or dark amber colour. The ‘black’ glass was enhanced by residual carbon in the potash. Black glass is rarely used nowadays but most beer, wine, and liquors are still sold in dark coloured glass. Glass vessels were core-formed from around 1500 BC. An inner core with the vessel’s shape was formed around a rod using a porous material such as clay or dung. Molten glass was then modelled around the core and decorated. When the glass had cooled the vessel was immersed in water and the inner core became liquid and was washed out. Much more recently, bottlers were crafted by a glassblower using molten glass and a blow pipe together with other hand tools. Another method was using simple moulds, called dip moulds, that allowed the glass to be blown into the mould to form the base, then the glassblower would continue blowing free-form to shape the shoulders and neck. The bottle was then finished by applying a lip. These moulded bottles were more uniform in shape compared to the free-form bottles originally produced. English glassblowers in the mid-1800s were making some bottles with 2-piece and 3-piece moulds, some with a push-up style base, sometimes with embossing in the base as well. Improvements allowed the moulds to also have embossed and patterned sides, and straight sided shapes such as hexagons. Bottles made in full moulds usually displayed seam seams or lines. These process took skill and time, making the bottles valuable, so they were often recycled. By the early 20th century bottles were increasingly machine made, which greatly reduced the production time and cost. This bottle is historically significant as an example of a handmade, blown inscribed glass bottle manufactured in the mid-to-late 1800s for specific use as a liquor bottle with a set measurement of one-sixth of gallon. It is also historically significant as an example of liquor bottles imported into Colonial Victoria in the mid-to-late 1800s, giving a snapshot into history and social life that occurred during the early days of Victoria’s development, and the sea trade that visited the ports in those days. The bottle is also significant as one of a group of bottles recovered by John Chance, a diver in Victoria’s coastal waters in the late 1960s to early 1970s. Items that come from several wrecks have since been donated to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village’s museum collection of shipwreck artefacts by his family, illustrating this item’s level of historical value. Bottle, brown glass, handmade. Tall slim Gallon style liquor bottle. Applied double collar lip; square upper with flared lower. Push-up base with pontil mark and embossed inscription. Base is uneven, glass composition has imperfections.Embossed on base "6 TO THE GALLON"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck artefact, john chance, glass bottle, antique bottle, gallon bottle, 6 to the gallon bottle, handmade, dip mould, mouth blown, pontil mark, blown bottle, liquor bottle, ale bottle, double collar, 19th century bottle, collectable

This handmade ‘gallon’ style of bottle was generally used for storing and transporting wine and ale. Many bottles similar to this one have their bases embossed with “6 TO THE GALLON”. It is one of many artefacts recovered from unidentified shipwrecks along Victoria’s coast between the late 1960s and the early 1970s. It is now part of the John Chance Collection. The capacity of this is one-sixth of a gallon (imperial measure), which is equal to 758 ml. (American bottles were often inscribed “5 TO THE GALLON”, which is one-fifth of an American gallon, equal to 757 ml.) Contemporary home brewers can purchase new ‘6 to gallon’ bottles that hold 750 ml. and are sold in cases of 36 bottles, which is equal to 6 gallons of wine. Glass was made thousands of years ago by heating together quartz-sand (Silica), lime and potash. Potash was obtained from burnt wood, but these days potash is mined. The natural sand had imperfections such as different forms of iron, resulting in ‘black’ glass, which was really dark green or dark amber colour. The ‘black’ glass was enhanced by residual carbon in the potash. Black glass is rarely used nowadays but most beer, wine, and liquors are still sold in dark coloured glass. Glass vessels were core-formed from around 1500 BC. An inner core with the vessel’s shape was formed around a rod using a porous material such as clay or dung. Molten glass was then modelled around the core and decorated. When the glass had cooled the vessel was immersed in water and the inner core became liquid and was washed out. Much more recently, bottlers were crafted by a glassblower using molten glass and a blow pipe together with other hand tools. Another method was using simple moulds, called dip moulds, that allowed the glass to be blown into the mould to form the base, then the glassblower would continue blowing free-form to shape the shoulders and neck. The bottle was then finished by applying a lip. These moulded bottles were more uniform in shape compared to the free-form bottles originally produced. English glassblowers in the mid-1800s were making some bottles with 2-piece and 3-piece moulds, some with a push-up style base, sometimes with embossing in the base as well. Improvements allowed the moulds to also have embossed and patterned sides, and straight sided shapes such as hexagons. Bottles made in full moulds usually displayed seam seams or lines. These process took skill and time, making the bottles valuable, so they were often recycled. By the early 20th century bottles were increasingly machine made, which greatly reduced the production time and cost. This bottle is historically significant as an example of a handmade, blown inscribed glass bottle manufactured in the mid-to-late 1800s for specific use as a liquor bottle with a set measurement of one-sixth of gallon. It is also historically significant as an example of liquor bottles imported into Colonial Victoria in the mid-to-late 1800s, giving a snapshot into history and social life that occurred during the early days of Victoria’s development, and the sea trade that visited the ports in those days. The bottle is also significant as one of a group of bottles recovered by John Chance, a diver in Victoria’s coastal waters in the late 1960s to early 1970s. Items that come from several wrecks have since been donated to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village’s museum collection of shipwreck artefacts by his family, illustrating this item’s level of historical value. Bottle, brown glass, handmade. Tall slim Gallon style liquor bottle. Applied double collar lip; square upper and flared lower. Neck has seams and shoulder seam from 3-piece mould. Body tapers towards base. Push-up base with pontil mark and embossed inscription. Base is uneven. Mouth has remnants of the seal in it and tape remnants around its outside. Embossed on base "6 TO THE GALLON"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck artefact, john chance, glass bottle, antique bottle, gallon bottle, 6 to the gallon bottle, handmade, dip mould, mouth blown, pontil mark, blown bottle, liquor bottle, ale bottle, double collar, 19th century bottle, collectable

This handmade ‘gallon’ style of bottle was generally used for storing and transporting wine and ale. Many bottles similar to this one have their bases embossed with “6 TO THE GALLON”. It is one of many artefacts recovered from unidentified shipwrecks along Victoria’s coast between the late 1960s and the early 1970s. It is now part of the John Chance Collection. The capacity of this is one-sixth of a gallon (imperial measure), which is equal to 758 ml. (American bottles were often inscribed “5 TO THE GALLON”, which is one-fifth of an American gallon, equal to 757 ml.) Contemporary home brewers can purchase new ‘6 to gallon’ bottles that hold 750 ml. and are sold in cases of 36 bottles, which is equal to 6 gallons of wine. Glass was made thousands of years ago by heating together quartz-sand (Silica), lime and potash. Potash was obtained from burnt wood, but these days potash is mined. The natural sand had imperfections such as different forms of iron, resulting in ‘black’ glass, which was really dark green or dark amber colour. The ‘black’ glass was enhanced by residual carbon in the potash. Black glass is rarely used nowadays but most beer, wine, and liquors are still sold in dark coloured glass. Glass vessels were core-formed from around 1500 BC. An inner core with the vessel’s shape was formed around a rod using a porous material such as clay or dung. Molten glass was then modelled around the core and decorated. When the glass had cooled the vessel was immersed in water and the inner core became liquid and was washed out. Much more recently, bottlers were crafted by a glassblower using molten glass and a blow pipe together with other hand tools. Another method was using simple moulds, called dip moulds, that allowed the glass to be blown into the mould to form the base, then the glassblower would continue blowing free-form to shape the shoulders and neck. The bottle was then finished by applying a lip. These moulded bottles were more uniform in shape compared to the free-form bottles originally produced. English glassblowers in the mid-1800s were making some bottles with 2-piece and 3-piece moulds, some with a push-up style base, sometimes with embossing in the base as well. Improvements allowed the moulds to also have embossed and patterned sides, and straight sided shapes such as hexagons. Bottles made in full moulds usually displayed seam seams or lines. These process took skill and time, making the bottles valuable, so they were often recycled. By the early 20th century bottles were increasingly machine made, which greatly reduced the production time and cost. This bottle is historically significant as an example of a handmade, blown inscribed glass bottle manufactured in the mid-to-late 1800s for specific use as a liquor bottle. It is also historically significant as an example of liquor bottles imported into Colonial Victoria in the mid-to-late 1800s, giving a snapshot into history and social life that occurred during the early days of Victoria’s development, and the sea trade that visited the ports in those days. The bottle is also significant as one of a group of bottles recovered by John Chance, a diver in Victoria’s coastal waters in the late 1960s to early 1970s. Items that come from several wrecks have since been donated to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village’s museum collection of shipwreck artefacts by his family, illustrating this item’s level of historical value. Bottle, olive green glass, handmade. Tall slim, Gallon style liquor bottle. Applied double collar lip; square upper with flared lower. Neck is slightly bulged and there is a mould seam where shoulder joins base. Body tapers inward to base. Uneven base with deep push-up centre with small pontil mark. Scratches and imperfections in glass. Also encrustations on surface. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck artefact, john chance, glass bottle, antique bottle, gallon bottle, handmade, dip mould, mouth blown, pontil mark, blown bottle, liquor bottle, ale bottle, double collar, 19th century bottle, collectable

This handmade ‘gallon’ style of bottle was generally used for storing and transporting wine and ale. Many bottles similar to this one have their bases embossed with “6 TO THE GALLON”. It is one of many artefacts recovered from unidentified shipwrecks along Victoria’s coast between the late 1960s and the early 1970s. It is now part of the John Chance Collection. The capacity of this is one-sixth of a gallon (imperial measure), which is equal to 758 ml. (American bottles were often inscribed “5 TO THE GALLON”, which is one-fifth of an American gallon, equal to 757 ml.) Contemporary home brewers can purchase new ‘6 to gallon’ bottles that hold 750 ml. and are sold in cases of 36 bottles, which is equal to 6 gallons of wine. Glass was made thousands of years ago by heating together quartz-sand (Silica), lime and potash. Potash was obtained from burnt wood, but these days potash is mined. The natural sand had imperfections such as different forms of iron, resulting in ‘black’ glass, which was really dark green or dark amber colour. The ‘black’ glass was enhanced by residual carbon in the potash. Black glass is rarely used nowadays but most beer, wine, and liquors are still sold in dark coloured glass. Glass vessels were core-formed from around 1500 BC. An inner core with the vessel’s shape was formed around a rod using a porous material such as clay or dung. Molten glass was then modelled around the core and decorated. When the glass had cooled the vessel was immersed in water and the inner core became liquid and was washed out. Much more recently, bottlers were crafted by a glassblower using molten glass and a blow pipe together with other hand tools. Another method was using simple moulds, called dip moulds, that allowed the glass to be blown into the mould to form the base, then the glassblower would continue blowing free-form to shape the shoulders and neck. The bottle was then finished by applying a lip. These moulded bottles were more uniform in shape compared to the free-form bottles originally produced. English glassblowers in the mid-1800s were making some bottles with 2-piece and 3-piece moulds, some with a push-up style base, sometimes with embossing in the base as well. Improvements allowed the moulds to also have embossed and patterned sides, and straight sided shapes such as hexagons. Bottles made in full moulds usually displayed seam seams or lines. These process took skill and time, making the bottles valuable, so they were often recycled. By the early 20th century bottles were increasingly machine made, which greatly reduced the production time and cost. This bottle is historically significant as an example of a handmade, blown inscribed glass bottle manufactured in the mid-to-late 1800s for specific use as a liquor bottle with a set measurement of one-sixth of gallon. It is also historically significant as an example of liquor bottles imported into Colonial Victoria in the mid-to-late 1800s, giving a snapshot into history and social life that occurred during the early days of Victoria’s development, and the sea trade that visited the ports in those days. The bottle is also significant as one of a group of bottles recovered by John Chance, a diver in Victoria’s coastal waters in the late 1960s to early 1970s. Items that come from several wrecks have since been donated to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village’s museum collection of shipwreck artefacts by his family, illustrating this item’s level of historical value. Bottle, olive green glass, handmade. Tall slim Gallon style liquor bottle. Applied double collar lip; square upper and flared lower. Mouth has remnants of tape and wire seal. Mould seam around shoulder. Body tapers slightly inward to the base. Push-up base has pontil mark and is embossed in large letters. Base is uneven. Embossed on base "6 TO THE GALLON"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck artefact, john chance, glass bottle, antique bottle, gallon bottle, 6 to the gallon bottle, handmade, dip mould, mouth blown, pontil mark, blown bottle, liquor bottle, ale bottle, double collar, 19th century bottle, collectable

This handmade ‘gallon’ style of bottle was generally used for storing and transporting wine and ale. Many bottles similar to this one have their bases embossed with “6 TO THE GALLON”. It is one of many artefacts recovered from an unidentified shipwrecks along Victoria’s coast between the late 1960s and the early 1970s. It is now part of the John Chance Collection. The capacity of this is one-sixth of a gallon (imperial measure), which is equal to 758 ml. (American bottles were often inscribed “5 TO THE GALLON”, which is one-fifth of an American gallon, equal to 757 ml.) Contemporary home brewers can purchase new ‘6 to gallon’ bottles that hold 750 ml. and are sold in cases of 36 bottles, which is equal to 6 gallons of wine. Glass was made thousands of years ago by heating together quartz-sand (Silica), lime and potash. Potash was obtained from burnt wood, but these days potash is mined. The natural sand had imperfections such as different forms of iron, resulting in ‘black’ glass, which was really dark green or dark amber colour. The ‘black’ glass was enhanced by residual carbon in the potash. Black glass is rarely used nowadays but most beer, wine, and liquors are still sold in dark coloured glass. Glass vessels were core-formed from around 1500 BC. An inner core with the vessel’s shape was formed around a rod using a porous material such as clay or dung. Molten glass was then modelled around the core and decorated. When the glass had cooled the vessel was immersed in water and the inner core became liquid and was washed out. Much more recently, bottlers were crafted by a glassblower using molten glass and a blow pipe together with other hand tools. Another method was using simple moulds, called dip moulds, that allowed the glass to be blown into the mould to form the base, then the glassblower would continue blowing free-form to shape the shoulders and neck. The bottle was then finished by applying a lip. These moulded bottles were more uniform in shape compared to the free-form bottles originally produced. English glassblowers in the mid-1800s were making some bottles with 2-piece and 3-piece moulds, some with a push-up style base, sometimes with embossing in the base as well. Improvements allowed the moulds to also have embossed and patterned sides, and straight sided shapes such as hexagons. Bottles made in full moulds usually displayed seam seams or lines. These process took skill and time, making the bottles valuable, so they were often recycled. By the early 20th century bottles were increasingly machine made, which greatly reduced the production time and cost. This bottle is historically significant as an example of a handmade, blown inscribed glass bottle manufactured in the mid-to-late 1800s for specific use as a liquor bottle with a set measurement of one-sixth of gallon. It is also historically significant as an example of liquor bottles imported into Colonial Victoria in the mid-to-late 1800s, giving a snapshot into history and social life that occurred during the early days of Victoria’s development, and the sea trade that visited the ports in those days. The bottle is also significant as one of a group of bottles recovered by John Chance, a diver in Victoria’s coastal waters in the late 1960s to early 1970s. Items that come from several wrecks have since been donated to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village’s museum collection of shipwreck artefacts by his family, illustrating this item’s level of historical value. Bottle, brown glass, Tall slim gallon style. Applied double collar lip; upper is straight, lower is flared. Lip has bumps around the top. Neck has slight taper towards shoulder, which has a shoulder seam from the mould. Body tapers inwards towards base. Push up base has a pontil mark. Base is embossed.Embossed on base "6 TO THE GALLON"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck artefact, john chance, glass bottle, antique bottle, gallon bottle, 6 to the gallon bottle, handmade, dip mould, mouth blown, pontil mark, blown bottle, liquor bottle, ale bottle, double collar, 19th century bottle, collectable

Battery Quartermaster Sergeant Harold Bauerle served with the Albury Battery in the 1920s and 1030s. Shortly following Federation the military unit in Albury was redesignated No 4 New South Wales Battery Australian Field Artillery (AFA). It was under the command of Major John Wilkinson, an Albury solicitor and comprised about 100 citizen soldiers, 4 guns and about 40 horses. Training centred on the Albury Drill Hall located in Victoria Street. A reorganisation in 1912 resulted in the Battery being named No 17 Battery AFA. When war broke out in 1914 the Battery then under the command of Major Joseph Shellshear, and Albury doctor, offered its services as a trained artillery battery to the Australian Imperial Force (AIF). The Battery cooled its heels and continued to train till July 1915 when a second division was raised in the AIF and trained artillery was needed. When the call came 150 officers and men of the 17th Battery went into the AIF, many to the 13th Battery with Major Shellshear in command and others to other AIF batteries of the 4th and 5th Artillery Brigades. The 13th Battery was adopted immediately by the townsfolk of Albury as the Albury Battery. The Battery served in France and Belgium and was involved in all the major battles fought by the Australians perhaps most notably at Noreuil where the Battery found itself surrounded but continued to fight till eventually the enemy was driven back. Following the war members of the Battery nominated this battle as their most significant achievement and consequently a newly developed recreational reserve on the Murray River foreshore was named Noreuil Park. In 1919 the Battery resumed training as part of the Citizen Military Forces or Militia. Changes of title were frequent, first 27th Battery, then 60th Battery and finally 40th Battery AFA. Battery commanders included Captain Leslie Colquhoun, an Albury real estate agent, Captain Roy Collings, Albury town clerk and Captain Clifton Mott a newspaper editor. The Depression of the early 1930s almost brought about the closure of the Albury Battery but it survived through the intervention of the mayor, Alderman Alfred Waugh, who made direct representation to the Minister for Defence. When the Second World War erupted in 1939, the Battery was at full strength and a rich source of officers and trained men for the second AIF. Militia training of the few remaining officers and Albury adopted the 2/23rd Infantry Battalion which had been raised at the Showground. Following WWII, CMF soldiering recommenced in the form of an armoured regiment, the 8th/13th Victorian Mounted Rifles. After nearly a half a century of service in war and peace the Albury Battery has faded and exists now in this collection of objects and images. This trophy is representative of community support for a Citizen Military Forces unit drawn from a regional NSW Town in the period between the World Wars.Silver cup with two handles mounted on Bakelite base being the McClure Cup for most efficient NCO in Albury Battery 1935-36 . inscription on side of cup."McClure Cup / for / Most efficient NCO / 1935-36 / won by / BQMS H.C. Bauerle"bauerle h c bqms, albury battery, mcclure cup

This brand of starch was first manufactured in 1914, during the First World War, and continued to cover the other wars and military conflicts that followed. It was a time when Australian made was important due to the limited supplies coming from England and Europe. This was a period when the demand for "home grown" produce was at its peak. This was in a time when by necessity not by the "Buy Australian" campaign (of later years) which was the major factor for the demand of goods. It was in a time when starch was used in formal clothing to put a "crisp" or fresh new appearance for clothes. The important social more of "clothes make the person" was in vogue. This is a sample box provided by the manufacturer as an advertising and promotional method of prospective customers becoming aware of the product. This type of promotional avenue brought results and ensured that this type of advertising and inducement by manufacturers would be ingrained as a lasting avenue through to the 2nd Millennium This box which once contained starch powder is very significant to a rural semi isolated region because it clearly demonstrates that the social mores of the city were also entrenched into the rural population. The fashion of the day, even in remote areas, especially rural, were still a requirement to be maintained on certain special occasions. Cleanliness and stiff "upper lip" persona were just as important in the rural sector as in city and Government circles. Institutions such as hospitals, Government Offices and the legal personnel were bound by the fashion of the starch appearance (no dirt sticks to a personage with the "starch" look). Appearances, especially the first ones, were the judgmental image that remained in the uppermost regions of the viewer.This box with white writing and a "formally clad" man on a navy blue background held Australian grown maize based starch powder(1 LB gross). The package is made from 200 gsm thick cardboard. As production was made during the two World Wars 1914 to 1945 the promotion was heavily focused on Australian made and Australian grown maize.The front(has "Sample" on top) the rest inscriptions are the same on each cover both and back, "DANDY" below this a figure outlined in white on a navy blue background "hat and tails" outfit. Next to the sketch in smaller lettering" STRONGER THAN OTHER STARCHES. LESS REQUIRED". Below the figure "GLOSS" and below this in larger print "STARCH". Below this and in smaller print "CONTENTS. NETT WEIGHT 14 1/2 ozs" Below this and in smaller print "MANUFACTURED BY MAIZE PRODUCTS PTY LTD FOOTSCRAY VICTORIA" On one side of the box and in large white print on royal blue background"PURITY, STRENGTH AND UNIFORMITY." On the other side are the manufacturers directions. On the left side "FOR RAW STARCH" Underneath and in smaller print,"Dissolve in warm water a quantity to give the required thickness. Add bluing if required Stir before each using. On the right side "FOR BOILING STARCH" underneath this in small print"Mix well in small quantity of cold water to creamy consistency. Add boiling water, and stir constantly while cooking. Allow to cool, and add blueing if required. Underneath these two sets of instructions is "Make your consistency thinner than if using another kind of Starch"household starch, household cleaning, domestic laundering.

The objects are a sample of medium caliber lead shot raised by Flagstaff Hill divers from the Loch Ard shipwreck site in 1976. Included in the vessel’s cargo manifest were 22 tonnes of lead shot, packed into her holds in cloth bags and wooden casks. These 49 pieces of 7 mm diameter lead shot are identical in size and smoothness. Each one also bears the same slightly raised square of residual metal left behind by the process of pouring molten lead into individual but identical moulds through a small (square) opening. These pieces of shot can be compared with contrast pieces in the Maritime Village collection, which are examples of shot tower pellet production; an industrial technique more suited to the creation of uniformly spherical balls that do not need subsequent trimming. In conventional shot tower production, lead is heated in a cauldron at the top of a 150-160 feet tower, and poured through a copper lattice that divides the metal into falling droplets. As these droplets fall, they spin into small spheres and gradually cool, before finishing in a pool of water at the bottom of the tower. However the maximum size of lead shot, and the economic efficiency of shot tower production, is limited by the practical height of the drop. Larger diameter lead shot must fall further in order to cool evenly and sufficiently to avoid shape distortion on hitting the water at the base. This sample of larger 7 mm lead shot, although mass produced, appears to have been manufactured under the traditional and more labour intensive mould system. They are therefore distinct from the other samples of smaller gauged and shot tower produced lead shot that were being imported on the Loch Ard . In terms of metallurgical technology these 7 mm shot are more closely related to an artifact in our Collection (No. 5241) — a forged set of pincers or pliers with two facing cups at the end. When the pincers are closed, the cups join to form a single mould. Molten lead is poured through a small (circular) opening left at the top of the mould. When cooled the pincers are opened, breaking the mould and releasing the lead shot. The excess metal left over from the pouring operation at the top of the ball is then trimmed off using the scissor like cutting edges on the inner side of the pliers handles. In this manner, individual shooters were able to make their own ammunition for their shotguns. History of the Loch Ard: The Loch Ard got it’s name from ”Loch Ard” a loch which lies to the west of Aberfoyle, and to the east of Loch Lomond. It means "high lake" in Scottish Gaelic.The vessel belonged to the famous Loch Line which sailed many vessels from England to Australia. The Loch Ard was built in Glasgow by Barclay, Curdle and Co. in 1873, the vessel was a three-masted square-rigged iron sailing ship that measured 79.87 meters in length, 11.58 m in width, and 7 m in depth with a gross tonnage of 1693 tons with a mainmast that measured a massive 45.7 m in height. Loch Ard made three trips to Australia and one trip to Calcutta before its fateful voyage. Loch Ard left England on March 2, 1878, under the command of 29-year-old Captain Gibbs, who was newly married. The ship was bound for Melbourne with a crew of 37, plus 17 passengers. The general cargo reflected the affluence of Melbourne at the time. Onboard were straw hats, umbrella, perfumes, clay pipes, pianos, clocks, confectionery, linen and candles, as well as a heavier load of railway irons, cement, lead and copper. There were other items included that were intended for display in the Melbourne International Exhibition of 1880. The voyage to Port Phillip was long but uneventful. Then at 3 am on June 1, 1878, Captain Gibbs was expecting to see land. But the Loch Ard was running into a fog which greatly reduced visibility. Captain Gibbs was becoming anxious as there was no sign of land or the Cape Otway lighthouse. At 4 am the fog lifted and a lookout aloft announced that he could see breakers. The sheer cliffs of Victoria's west coast came into view, and Captain Gibbs realised that the ship was much closer to them than expected. He ordered as much sail to be set as time would permit and then attempted to steer the vessel out to sea. On coming head-on into the wind, the ship lost momentum, the sails fell limp and Loch Ard's bow swung back towards land. Gibbs then ordered the anchors to be released in an attempt to hold its position. The anchors sank some 50 fathoms - but did not hold. By this time the ship was among the breakers and the tall cliffs of Mutton Bird Island rose behind. Just half a mile from the coast, the ship's bow was suddenly pulled around by the anchor. The captain tried to tack out to sea, but the ship struck a reef at the base of Mutton Bird Island, near Port Campbell. Waves subsequently broke over the ship and the top deck became loosened from the hull. The masts and rigging came crashing down knocking passengers and crew overboard. When a lifeboat was finally launched, it crashed into the side of Loch Ard and capsized. Tom Pearce, who had launched the boat, managed to cling to its overturned hull and shelter beneath it. He drifted out to sea and then on the flood tide came into what is now known as Loch Ard Gorge. He swam to shore, bruised and dazed, and found a cave in which to shelter. Some of the crew stayed below deck to shelter from the falling rigging but drowned when the ship slipped off the reef into deeper water. Eva Carmichael a passenger had raced onto the deck to find out what was happening only to be confronted by towering cliffs looming above the stricken ship. In all the chaos, Captain Gibbs grabbed Eva and said, "If you are saved Eva, let my dear wife know that I died like a sailor". That was the last Eva Carmichael saw of the captain. She was swept off the ship by a huge wave. Eva saw Tom Pearce on a small rocky beach and yelled to attract his attention. He dived in and swam to the exhausted woman and dragged her to shore. He took her to the cave and broke the open case of brandy which had washed up on the beach. He opened a bottle to revive the unconscious woman. A few hours later Tom scaled a cliff in search of help. He followed hoof prints and came by chance upon two men from nearby Glenample Station three and a half miles away. In a complete state of exhaustion, he told the men of the tragedy. Tom then returned to the gorge while the two men rode back to the station to get help. By the time they reached Loch Ard Gorge, it was cold and dark. The two shipwreck survivors were taken to Glenample Station to recover. Eva stayed at the station for six weeks before returning to Ireland by steamship. In Melbourne, Tom Pearce received a hero's welcome. He was presented with the first gold medal of the Royal Humane Society of Victoria and a £1000 cheque from the Victorian Government. Concerts were performed to honour the young man's bravery and to raise money for those who lost family in the disaster. Of the 54 crew members and passengers on board, only two survived: the apprentice, Tom Pearce and the young woman passenger, Eva Carmichael, who lost her family in the tragedy. Ten days after the Loch Ard tragedy, salvage rights to the wreck were sold at auction for £2,120. Cargo valued at £3,000 was salvaged and placed on the beach, but most washed back into the sea when another storm developed. The wreck of Loch Ard still lies at the base of Mutton Bird Island. Much of the cargo has now been salvaged and some items were washed up into Loch Ard Gorge. Cargo and artefacts have also been illegally salvaged over many years before protective legislation was introduced in March 1982. One of the most unlikely pieces of cargo to have survived the shipwreck was a Minton majolica peacock- one of only nine in the world. The peacock was destined for the Melbourne 1880 International Exhibition in. It had been well packed, which gave it adequate protection during the violent storm. Today the Minton peacock can be seen at the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum in Warrnambool. From Australia's most dramatic shipwreck it has now become Australia's most valuable shipwreck artifact and is one of very few 'objects' on the Victorian State Heritage Register. The shipwreck of the Loch Ard is of significance for Victoria and is registered on the Victorian Heritage Register Ref S 417. Flagstaff Hill has a varied collection of artefacts from Loch Ard and its collection is significant for being one of the largest accumulation of artefacts from this notable Victorian shipwreck. The collections object is to also give us a snapshot into history so we are able to interpret the story of this tragic event. The collection is also archaeologically significant as it represents aspects of Victoria's shipping history that allows us to interpret Victoria's social and historical themes of the time. The collections historically significance is that it is associated unfortunately with the worst and best-known shipwreck in Victoria's history. A quantity of forty-nine (49) loose round lead shot of 7 mm diameter retrieved from the wreck of the Loch Ard. All are smooth round spheres with the same small raised square of excess lead on one face.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, loch line, loch ard, captain gibbs, eva carmichael, tom pearce, glenample station, mutton bird island, loch ard gorge, shipwreck artefact, shot, lead shot, shot towers, shot mould, colonial imports, practical metallurgy

This ice cream freezer, manufactured in South Australia in the 1930's, was advertised to "keep the contents of the cream compartment frozen for many hours". It was promoted for use at picnics to keep salads cool. Its design is very similar to other freezers of The Frigid name which were made in 1939; those freezers were all one colour whereas this one is blue around the top and bottom of the barrel and cream in the centre with blue/green lettering. The process of making ice cream was to pack the outer chamber full with a combination of 3 parts ice cubes of about 1 inch (2.cm) to one part coarse salt, then pour into the chamber about 1 cup of cold water. After this, the ingredients for ice cream or sorbet were poured into the inner chamber, then attach the lid and turn The Frigid freezer upside down for about 40 minutes or until the right consistency is reached. Advice as given to open the freezer every 20 minutes and stir around the contents that were frozen against the sides of the inner chamber. The ingredients for the ice cream could include cream, sugar, vanilla and eggs. The label on the box of The Frigid shows the address of A Simpson and Son to be at Pirie Street, Adelaide. This address was used as early as 1876 and later catalogues, 1931 - 1960 still show this address. Alfred Simpson and his family emigrated from England, arriving in South Australia in 1849. He had already completed his apprenticeship as a tinplate worker but he tried various other occupations, including trying out the gold mines in Victoria, before he established himself as a tinsmith in 1853. His products included many agricultural items. His son, Alfred Muller Simpson, joined the business when he turned 21. In the 1860 Simpson's products included 'explosion proof' safes. In the late 1880's A Simpson and Son manufactured munitions and mines for the war. At the time of Alfred's death in 1891, A Simpson and Son had the largest metal manufacturing plant in Australia. From 1898 the company's reputation grew from the process of enamel plating with porcelain. During the First World War, Simpsons returned to the manufacture of munitions. Alfred M. Simpson's sons (Alfred Allen, known as Allen, and Fredrick Neighbour) joined the company when they finished their schooling. Allen was also associated with the Royal Geological Society over many years and when the CT Madigan surveyed Central Australia in 1929, the Simpson Desert was named in his honour. Cape Simpson in Antarctica is also named after him due to his assistance to Douglas Mawson. A new factory was opened at Dudley Park in the 1940s and the company began the manufacture of whitegoods. In 1963 A. Simpson and Son merged with Pope Industries to form Simpson Pope Holdings. Alfred Simpson became chairman of the board of Simpson Pope Holdings. The Simpson brand, now owned by Electrolux, continues to produce a variety of household appliances. (Reference: State Library of South Australia) A Simpson and Son was an early colonial business that has lasted well into the 20th century and the name Simpson is still associated with whitegoods. Freezer, 2 quart (1.8 litre) capacity, made by A Simpson and Son Ltd, marked "The Frigid". Cylinder shaped, constructed from enamelled sheet metal, has two catches one on the base and one on top. Inner cylinder for holding contents for freezing. Slightly rusted. Freezer is inside original cardboard box with yellow label showing manufacturer details. Circa 1930'sOutside of freezer is printed in blue"The Frigid". Box includes "THE "FRIGID" FREEZER" and branded "S & S" inside a circle.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, a. simpson & son limited, manufacturer, foundry, freezer, 2 quart freezer, portable freezer, kitchen appliance, the frigid, ice cream freezer, ice cream maker 1930's

This handmade ‘gallon’ style of bottle was generally used for storing and transporting wine and ale. Many bottles similar to this one have their bases embossed with “6 TO THE GALLON”. However, this bottle is rare, in that the base has been embossed then over-embossed with the same text, letters overlapping. It is one of many artefacts recovered from unidentified shipwrecks along Victoria’s coast between the late 1960s and the early 1970s. It is now part of the John Chance Collection. The capacity of this is one-sixth of a gallon (imperial measure), which is equal to 758 ml. (American bottles were often inscribed “5 TO THE GALLON”, which is one-fifth of an American gallon, equal to 757 ml.) Contemporary home brewers can purchase new ‘6 to gallon’ bottles that hold 750 ml. and are sold in cases of 36 bottles, which is equal to 6 gallons of wine. Glass was made thousands of years ago by heating together quartz-sand (Silica), lime and potash. Potash was obtained from burnt wood, but these days potash is mined. The natural sand had imperfections such as different forms of iron, resulting in ‘black’ glass, which was really dark green or dark amber colour. The ‘black’ glass was enhanced by residual carbon in the potash. Black glass is rarely used nowadays but most beer, wine, and liquors are still sold in dark coloured glass. Glass vessels were core-formed from around 1500 BC. An inner core with the vessel’s shape was formed around a rod using a porous material such as clay or dung. Molten glass was then modelled around the core and decorated. When the glass had cooled the vessel was immersed in water and the inner core became liquid and was washed out. Much more recently, bottlers were crafted by a glassblower using molten glass and a blow pipe together with other hand tools. Another method was using simple moulds, called dip moulds, that allowed the glass to be blown into the mould to form the base, then the glassblower would continue blowing free-form to shape the shoulders and neck. The bottle was then finished by applying a lip. These moulded bottles were more uniform in shape compared to the free-form bottles originally produced. English glassblowers in the mid-1800s were making some bottles with 2-piece and 3-piece moulds, some with a push-up style base, sometimes with embossing in the base as well. Improvements allowed the moulds to also have embossed and patterned sides, and straight sided shapes such as hexagons. Bottles made in full moulds usually displayed seam seams or lines. These process took skill and time, making the bottles valuable, so they were often recycled. By the early 20th century bottles were increasingly machine made, which greatly reduced the production time and cost. This bottle is a rare find, in that the base has been over-embossed with the same lettering, letters overlapping one another. This bottle is historically significant as an example of a handmade, blown inscribed glass bottle manufactured in the mid-to-late 1800s for specific use as a liquor bottle with a set measurement of one-sixth of gallon. It is also historically significant as an example of liquor bottles imported into Colonial Victoria in the mid-to-late 1800s, giving a snapshot into history and social life that occurred during the early days of Victoria’s development, and the sea trade that visited the ports in those days. The bottle is also significant as one of a group of bottles recovered by John Chance, a diver in Victoria’s coastal waters in the late 1960s to early 1970s. Items that come from several wrecks have since been donated to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village’s museum collection of shipwreck artefacts by his family, illustrating this item’s level of historical value. Bottle, over embossed, brown glass, handmade, rare. Tall slim Gallon style liquor bottle. Applied double collar lip; square upper and flared lower. Mouth has sealing tape remnants around top. Mould seam around shoulder. Body tapers inwards to push-up base. Top edge of lip has application faults. There is also a rectangular indent in the upper edge of lip. Base is embossed and over embossed, with the letters overlapping each other. Embossed on base "6 TO THE GALLON", then over-embossed with the same "6 TO THE GALLON"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck artefact, john chance, glass bottle, antique bottle, gallon bottle, 6 to the gallon bottle, handmade, dip mould, mouth blown, pontil mark, blown bottle, liquor bottle, ale bottle, double collar, 19th century bottle, collectable, over embossed, rare

During prestige, long distance train journeys some carriages had air-conditioning, and the majority of passengers had to brave unheated carriages. To offer some comfort during the winter months, the non-air-conditioned carriages were provided with footwarmers. These were metal containers roughly 100 mm thick and 300 mm wide, and about 750 mm long, which were filled with salt crystals (concentrated crystalline hydrated sodium acetate). The footwarmers were covered by sleeves of thick canvas, and two footwarmers were usually placed in each compartment of non-air-conditioned carriages. To activate the chemicals, the footwarmers were heated almost to boiling point. This was done by removing the canvas sleeves and placing the footwarmers in a large bath of very hot water. After they had been heated, they were removed from the bath and the sleeves refitted. They were then ready to be placed in the carriages. The McLaren patent foot warmer was used on railways in New South Wales, Queensland, Victoria and South Australia as well as South Africa and New Zealand. It was during the 1901 royal visit by the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall that these foot warmers were first used in New Zealand in the royal carriage. Before railway carriage heating was introduced, McLaren patent foot warmers were placed on the floor of New South Wales government railway carriages from 1891 to provide a little passenger comfort. The rectangular steel container worked a bit like a hot water bottle but instead of water contained six and a half kilograms of loosely-packed salt crystals, (concentrated crystalline hydrated sodium acetate). This was permanently sealed inside the container with a soldered cap. After the foot warmer was heated in vat of boiling water for about one and a quarter hours the crystals became a hot liquid. (The melting point for sodium acetate is 58 degrees). There was a whole infrastructure of special furnaces set up at stations for the daily heating of foot warmers. By 1914 the Victorian railways had 4,000 foot warmers in service and by 1935 there were 33 furnaces at principal stations to heat them. After about 10 hours the container was picked up by the handle and given a good vertical shake which helped the cooled liquid reform into a solid mass of hot crystals. Staff or sometimes passengers shook them en route when the foot warmers began to get cold. However, as they were heavy this was only possible by fit and agile passengers. At the end of the journey the containers were boiled again for reuse on the next trip. Sodium acetate railway foot warmers were introduced in Victoria in 1889, Adelaide to Melbourne express in 1899. "Shaking up" on this service took place at Murray Bridge and Stawell on the tip to Melbourne and at Ballarat and Serviceton on the trip to Adelaide. The use of foot warmers began to decline in New South Wales from the 1930s with the first trial of carriage air-conditioning in 1936, steam heating from 1948 ad LP gas heating from 1961. By the early 1960s the main services using foot warmers were the overnight mail trains. info from : http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/collection/database/?irn=67564#ixzz4UBNzVf6t Under Creative Commons License: Attribution Non-Commercial There was a whole infrastructure set up at stations for the daily heating of foot warmers in special furnaces. In Victoria alone in 1935 there were 33 heating works.Historic - Victorian Railways - Carriage Heater - Foot warmerA rectangular-shaped stainless steel casing with a welded seam down the back and welded ends. There is a handle at one end for carrying and shaking. Inside the foot warmer are two baffle plates and three trays to contain the sodium acetate. There was a cast-iron ball in each internal compartment. puffing billy, victorian railways, carriage haeter, foot warmer, passenger comfort, station furnace, railway ephemera, early heating methods

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware