Background to the two openings of the "Goat Shed": Following a need to clean up some of the old L&L Centre buildings, in 1989 Council decided to enclose the remaining goat shed in a steel truss frame for use as a store room. Claire Fitzpatrick, who had run animal husbandry and goat classes on the site from the 1975 opening of the L&L Centre, was invited by the Committee to officiate at the naming of the new building on 3/12/1989. Following a fire of the stables/workshops on 8/5/1990 (which had to be cleared off the site) Council/Committee decided to use the $15000 insurance money to upgrade/refurbish the 1989 building to replace classrooms lost in the "stables fire". This refurbished Goat Shed was officially opened on 30/5/1991 by Cr. Peter Graham, Shire President. (Gleaned from Committee file, 1987-1992.) Photos show Cr Graham plus Gillian Barclay (Co-ordinator), Liliana Unsworth (Engineering Design Draftsperson) and Bill Oakley (Corporate Development Officer). Colour photographeltham living and learning centre, goat shed, gillian barclay, peter graham, liliana unsworth, bill oakley

Background to the two openings of the "Goat Shed": Following a need to clean up some of the old L&L Centre buildings, in 1989 Council decided to enclose the remaining goat shed in a steel truss frame for use as a store room. Claire Fitzpatrick, who had run animal husbandry and goat classes on the site from the 1975 opening of the L&L Centre, was invited by the Committee to officiate at the naming of the new building on 3/12/1989. Following a fire of the stables/workshops on 8/5/1990 (which had to be cleared off the site) Council/Committee decided to use the $15000 insurance money to upgrade/refurbish the 1989 building to replace classrooms lost in the "stables fire". This refurbished Goat Shed was officially opened on 30/5/1991 by Cr. Peter Graham, Shire President. (Gleaned from Committee file, 1987-1992.) Photos show Cr Graham plus Gillian Barclay (Co-ordinator), Liliana Unsworth (Engineering Design Draftsperson) and Bill Oakley (Corporate Development Officer). Colour photographeltham living and learning centre, goat shed, gillian barclay, peter graham, liliana unsworth, bill oakley

Background to the two openings of the "Goat Shed": Following a need to clean up some of the old L&L Centre buildings, in 1989 Council decided to enclose the remaining goat shed in a steel truss frame for use as a store room. Claire Fitzpatrick, who had run animal husbandry and goat classes on the site from the 1975 opening of the L&L Centre, was invited by the Committee to officiate at the naming of the new building on 3/12/1989. Following a fire of the stables/workshops on 8/5/1990 (which had to be cleared off the site) Council/Committee decided to use the $15000 insurance money to upgrade/refurbish the 1989 building to replace classrooms lost in the "stables fire". This refurbished Goat Shed was officially opened on 30/5/1991 by Cr. Peter Graham, Shire President. (Gleaned from Committee file, 1987-1992.) Photos show Cr Graham plus Gillian Barclay (Co-ordinator), Liliana Unsworth (Engineering Design Draftsperson) and Bill Oakley (Corporate Development Officer). Colour photographeltham living and learning centre, goat shed, steve, alan

Background to the two openings of the "Goat Shed": Following a need to clean up some of the old L&L Centre buildings, in 1989 Council decided to enclose the remaining goat shed in a steel truss frame for use as a store room. Claire Fitzpatrick, who had run animal husbandry and goat classes on the site from the 1975 opening of the L&L Centre, was invited by the Committee to officiate at the naming of the new building on 3/12/1989. Following a fire of the stables/workshops on 8/5/1990 (which had to be cleared off the site) Council/Committee decided to use the $15000 insurance money to upgrade/refurbish the 1989 building to replace classrooms lost in the "stables fire". This refurbished Goat Shed was officially opened on 30/5/1991 by Cr. Peter Graham, Shire President. (Gleaned from Committee file, 1987-1992.) Photos show Cr Graham plus Gillian Barclay (Co-ordinator), Liliana Unsworth (Engineering Design Draftsperson) and Bill Oakley (Corporate Development Officer). Colour photographeltham living and learning centre, goat shed, alan

Background to the two openings of the "Goat Shed": Following a need to clean up some of the old L&L Centre buildings, in 1989 Council decided to enclose the remaining goat shed in a steel truss frame for use as a store room. Claire Fitzpatrick, who had run animal husbandry and goat classes on the site from the 1975 opening of the L&L Centre, was invited by the Committee to officiate at the naming of the new building on 3/12/1989. Following a fire of the stables/workshops on 8/5/1990 (which had to be cleared off the site) Council/Committee decided to use the $15000 insurance money to upgrade/refurbish the 1989 building to replace classrooms lost in the "stables fire". This refurbished Goat Shed was officially opened on 30/5/1991 by Cr. Peter Graham, Shire President. (Gleaned from Committee file, 1987-1992.) Photos show Cr Graham plus Gillian Barclay (Co-ordinator), Liliana Unsworth (Engineering Design Draftsperson) and Bill Oakley (Corporate Development Officer). Colour photographeltham living and learning centre, goat shed, gillian barclay, peter graham, liliana unsworth, bill oakley

Robin Boyd was involved in creating several TV series for the ABC University of the Air. 'Design in Australia' was an eight part series. (Items D184-D193 contain all the manuscripts except part six titled 'Communications'.) In Part 5, Boyd identifies three styles of interior decoration in Australia. The first, Exhibit A is directly influenced by the fashions of Paris, London and New York and does not integrate the interior with the exterior. Exhibit B is the Australian architectural style of the 1960s. Exhibit C is characterised by practical, cheerful and easy to clean up interior fittings based on colourful plastics. Boyd refers to this style as "Australian pop art". He continues by explaining why Exhibit C came to be the preferred Australian style over Exhibit B. He suggests that the Australian public is ill-informed and misguided, ultimately concluding that Australian interior design reflects the public's lack of taste. (Same content as item D193, differing side notes on left side of pages)This is a draft script for the ABC television program 'University of the Air', subtitled 'Design in Australia', broadcast in 1965.Typewritten (c copy), foolscap, 15 pages (compared to D193, 11 pages) (Two copies)One copy has crisper letters typed over on pages 1 and 5.university of the air, design in australia, australian style, interior decoration in australia, frederick ward, lester bunbury, frances burke, grant featherston, modernage fabrics, manuscript

Robin Boyd was involved in creating several TV series for the ABC University of the Air. 'Design in Australia' was an eight part series. (Items D184-D193 contain all the manuscripts except part six titled 'Communications'.) In Part 5, Boyd identifies three styles of interior decoration in Australia. The first, Exhibit A, is directly influenced by the fashions of Paris, London and New York and does not integrate the interior with the exterior. Exhibit B is the Australian architectural style of the 1960s. Exhibit C is characterised by practical, cheerful and easy to clean up interior fittings based on colourful plastics. Boyd refers to this style as "Australian pop art". He continues by explaining why Exhibit C came to be the preferred Australian style over Exhibit B. He suggests that the Australian public is ill-informed and misguided, ultimately concluding that Australian interior design reflects the public's lack of taste. (Same content as item D188, differing side notes on left side of pages)This is a script for the ABC television program 'University of the Air', subtitled 'Design in Australia', broadcast in 1965. Item D188 is the draft version.Typewritten, foolscap, 11 pages, (compared to D188, 15 pages)university of the air, design in australia, australian style, interior decoration in australia, frederick ward, lester bunbury, frances burke, grant featherston, modernage fabrics, manuscript, ohm2022, ohm2022_30

"It was John Wedge, Batman's private surveyor, who named the Yarra Yarra. In September 1835 he was at the Turning Basin with some Kulin and heard them identify the river as it came over the Falls as, he wrote, 'Yarrow Yarrow'. It was only some months later that Wedge discovered they had been referring to the pattern and movement of water over the Falls, not the river itself. And ever since, it has been the Yarra's fate to be misunderstood: maligned for its muddiness, ill-used as sewer and tip; scooped, sculpted, straightened and stressed, 'cleaned up' to the detriment of its natural inhabitants; built-over, under and beside; worked mercilessly and then bridged almost to maritime extinction. In Kristin Otto's superbly entertaining new history, the whole sorry tale is laid bare. From the creation stories of Kulin owners and geologist blow-ins (and Robert Hoddle's bad-tempered expedition to the headwaters) to the twenty-first-century waterside building boom, Otto traces the course of Melbourne's murky river. Erudite, affectionate and witty, with more meanders and diversions than the river itself, Yarra is both a fascinating read and a fitting tribute to the 'noble stream'." -- Publisher's website.Paperback; [viii], 245 p. : illus., maps ; 24 cm.ISBN 1920885781yarra river

The Restoration of The Bendigo Gasworks Boiler House Complex, A Community Jobs Project March 2002 - June 2002. Final Report. Researched, compiled and written by: Fiona Gust and Simone (Mona) Krause. Front cover is purple, back cover is black and some inside pages are red or yellow. Topics in the book are: History of the Gasworks, How a Gasworks Works, Heritage Requirements, The CJP Crew, Crew Profiles, Initial Condition of the Boiler House Complex, O, H & S, Work Begins - Asbestos Removal, Clean-up, Iron Removal and Glazing. Artifact Cataloguing, where artifacts and where they were found were cataloged. On Going Discoveries. Exhauster ad Tank Room Ceilings, Pipes, Oil Spray Tower, Skillion over the Amenities Block, Posts, Beams along the Exhauster Room Wall-NE side, Beams on the SW side of the gable .. The join between the skillion and gable roof, Donuts on the Exhauster Room Wall - NE side, Trusses, Gutters and down pipes, Paint and Whitewash, Brickwork, Iron Fittings, Internal Fixtures, Generator Room/Compressor Room, Floors and Conclusion. The Captains Last Words by Peter Roberts. Acknowledgements. The coloured pages in the back are Edition One - 19.4.2002, Edition Two and Edition 3 of Combustible News which gives a progressive account of the work.buildings, gas company, the bendigo gasworks, the restoration of the bendigo gasworks boiler house complex, fiona gust, simone (mona) krause, city of melbourne gas and coke company, the bendigo mercury, the gas and fuel corporation, central deborah, community jobs project, peter roberts, chrysalis constructions, cvgt industrial training center, rod mclaughlin, allan fox, david gilroy, glen slater, aaron ott, ron whitford, daniel keogh, paul atkins, nick pearson, leigh williams, des leahy, anthony jennings, heritage victoria, the bendigo shire, central deborah, david bennear, david wright, deborah simm, community jobs unit, james thompson, mac booth, mine, tramways, discovery centre, mandy cooper, delwyn douglass, cindy tassie, helen yorston, brenda stanley, greg o'connell, kym smith, darren hutchesson, julie cain, john bullen, joe slaviero, mario joh;ns, norm harris, paul green, len cutting, jim morrissy, melissa tuddenham, fiona beckwith, leo trainor, gary anquetil, helen lynch, abbotts supply, action auction, garry floyd, bendigo trailers and hardware - matt, ron & jack, brennans - butch & robbie, bunnings - evan, brett crapper, hip pocket, jason kiel, country victorian scaffolding, paint right bendigo, alan gladman, deborah simms, graeme jennings, hugh ward, leigh williams, paul eccles, peter sporn, barb & mal krause, peter & shirley turner, bendigo copy centre

In 1948, the citizens of Kew presented this jewellery box to the outgoing Mayor and Mayoress of Kew, Cr & Mrs W D Vaughan. In 2021, it returned to Kew, thanks to the generous donations of our Friends of the Collection. William David Vaughan to whom the jewel box was presented in 1948 was a publisher, politician and historian, born in 1897 at Heathcote. By 1922, he had become a publisher and Secretary of Victorian Newspapers Ltd. In October 1922, he married Muriel Gladys Frazer in Bendigo. He purchased 'Elsfield' in Cotham Road, renamed it 'Carramar', and resided there for almost fifty years. His wife, the Mayoress, was an accomplished pianist and entertained the wives of councillors and supported many charitable works from her home. In 1926, Vaughan founded a local newspaper, the Kew Advertiser. During his second term as Mayor, he was elected president of Melbourne Suburban Newspapers’ Association, In April 1947, he was appointed to and later became chairman of the Free Library Services Board. In 1960, he published his history of Kew - 'Kew's Civic Century'. Vaughan’s third term as Mayor in 1962-63 saw the erection of the pavilion at Victoria Park and the final clean-up of the Outer Circle Railway. He died in September 1976. This inlaid and engraved jewellery box was part of a larger donation made to the Mayor and Mayoress of Kew in 1948 by the citizens of the municipality. It is the only 'civic award' in the collection given to a former civic leader and complements the large collection of civic portraits in the collection. The box is additionally significant because of its association with William David Vaughan - newspaper proprietor, local politician, and local historian. A presentation jewellery box, she-oak with barber pole inlay adorned with an Australian silver plaque.Engraved inscription on silver plaque - "Presented to Cr & Mrs W.D. Vaughan With The Esteem And Appreciation Of The Citizens Of Kew And In Recognition Of their Services As Mayor And Mayoress 1947-48. 28th July 1948"w d vaughan, mayors of kew, kew advertiser, kew (vic.) -- history

Thousands of volunteers work tirelessly to conserve and protect the environment of Geelong and the Bellarine. Their work often goes unnoticed. In 'The Work of Nature' the National Wool Museum and the Environment Department at the City of Greater Geelong worked with photographer Nicole Marie to showcase the significant contribution of environment volunteers in our region. Each of the eight people showcased in these portraits were nominated by their peers and members of the community for their significant contribution to conserving and protecting the environment. Rhonda Kelly - Friends of Waurn Ponds Creek Conservation volunteer projects not only have great biodiversity outcomes but are also collegial community groups that bring people together. Rhonda Kelly has worked tirelessly for over a decade for Waurn Ponds Creek. The Friends group is recognised throughout Geelong as a well-run, well organised and successful community group. This is due to the hard work of people like Rhonda. Rhonda is involved with all aspects of the Friends Group as Convener of the group, seed collector and propagator of plants at the community nursery. She is welcoming, passionate and hardworking. Not only does she organise the planting days and monthly clean-up days, but she also works with the community and schools engaging people with the value and beauty of the creek. Photo at Waurn Ponds Creek by Nicole Marie.Image showing an environmental portrait of a woman holding two potted seedlings with trees and grass in the background.environment, conservation, portraits, geelong, nature, exhibition, work of nature, geelong nature forum, volunteers

Yields information about the reconstruction of the depot trackwork during 1935/1936 and the condition of the rails, types of rails and methodsSet of 5 Black and white photo prints from collected negatives of the relaying of the depot fan at the SEC Ballarat depot building, during refurbishment by the SEC during 1935 or 1936. 1351.1 - Wendouree Parade depot junction, track - relaying the 2nd set of points. One track was still useable at the time. Note fences and tools lying around the work area. 1351.2 - laying out the trackwork for two and three roads, note machines and cylinders in background. 1351.3 - looking along No. 2 road out of the depot doors, not connected, possibly taken some time after 1351.2, as the area appears to be cleaned up. 1351.4 - Photo showing the various rail weights for possibly the western rail on No. 3 road and how the fishplates were at the time of the photograph. Not known whether this was the final arrangement, taken looking towards the depot building. 1351.5 - ditto but from the other end - note the damaged flangeway on the depot end rail - horse tram rail? Copy 2 - of all above photos - large format prints (203H x 253W) - added 28/7/2007, ex Alan Bradley holding of prints, received 5/2007. See also Reg Item 3901 for a mounted set of these photographs along with those of Reg Item. 1352. Negatives scanned at high res and images updated 14/5/2020. tramways, trams, wendouree parade, sec depot, rehabilitation, trackwork

Contract, 2 page handwritten, dated 9 March 1895, Written on front Christmas Reef GML Contract for driving 50 feet east @ 152 feet. On inside specification for driving cross-cut for the Christmas Reef Gold Mining Company No Liability ( least no 6486 Sandhurst ) at a depth of 150 feet A numbered list of expectation is given, for example Number 3: ' All Mullock & Co., obtained from the cross-cut shall be brought to the surface and the shaft and cross-cut left perfectly clear on the completion of the contract. Should any quartz be struck it must be brought up and stacked separately or disposed of as the company shall direct On bottom of contract I the undersigned hereby agree to perform the within mentioned work according to ?. Within written specification and to be bound by the terms and conditions therein mentioned for the sum of nine shilling and sixpence per completed foot of driving. Dated this ninth day of March 1895' signed Pat English. Below: My father the above named Pat English having died this morning, I am desirous of completing the above contract and I agree to complete the same according to the within written specification and to be bound by the terms and conditions therein mentioned for the sum of nine shillings and sixpence per completed foot of driving and to clean up the cross-cut to the presend and before starting. Dated this 29th. Day of March, 1895. Signed Patrick English.bendigo, mining, christmas reef gold mining

This flip top pocket steel ash tray was at the beginning of the social "cleaning up" of cigarette ash and related products. This cigarette waste container was for those occasions when it was polite not to throw the cigarette ash and used up cigarettes "buts" on the ground, or if working in any rural area during a dry fire prone season, when discarding burning cigarette waste could set up a severe "bush" fire. It was also at the beginning of an intensive look at the affects of smoking upon the health of users. Later in the 1900s was a time when medical evidence supported a ground swell of the anti smoking movement which resulted in further restrictions of the use cigarette smoking in public places. Before the anti cigarette smoking revolution, it was both fashionable and manly to either roll your own cigarette or open up a packet of "tailor made's". In the rural and man's man environment the roll your own provided a visual acknowledgement that the user was "true blue" Aussie male and not a city boy. The cycle of use of cigarettes has drastically changed from when this item was first used. Today's society (post 2000) has produced a ground swell of government and non government organisations whose aim is provide a cigarette "ash" free environment and society. This is highlighted in the beginning of the 2000 millennium by a cigarette "Free" Australia campaign, and the pocket flip top personal ash tray as a practical solution for butt litter disposal.This pocket ash tray not only was used when social graces required it to, but also provided a container for any unfinished cigarettes or stogies (cheap half used cigars). In rural areas (open fresh air countryside), where time was always made available for the "smoko" (Australian rest period), at any time, especially after some hard physical work, the ability to have a self contained ashing apparatus, not to offend the gentler folk, was a pre-requisite . The rural environment, in the days of these cigarette ash containers,was one which could range from harsh and unforgiving to mild and relaxing. Smoking could be enjoyed anywhere and at any time without too much "fussing" around. This ash tray was mobile, convenient, unobtrusive and regarded by the user as being considerate to those around. It also eliminated the tell tale evidence that the "no smoking" signs had been ignored. The Kiewa Valley was like many rural ares that found it hard for smokers to come to grips with a governmental "non smoking policy" to indoor recreational and other "confined space" environments. Tin plated mild steel round container with a lid. The opening lid is spring loaded, hinged top, circular and fixed by a clasp, pop- riveted (4) onto the main housing. Opposite the hinge the lid is held closed by a small metal ball fitting tightly to the top wall of the container. The lid is opened by the use of a fingernail positioned at junction of lid to body. This edge is bevelled to allow access. personal effects, tobacco waste products, smoking accessories

This flip top pocket aluminium ash tray was at the beginning of the social "cleaning up" of cigarette ash and related products. This cigarette waste container was for those occasions when it was polite not to throw the cigarette ash and used up cigarettes "buts" on the ground, or if working in any rural area during a dry fire prone season, when discarding burning cigarette waste could set up a severe "bush" fire. It was also at the beginning of an intensive look at the affects of smoking upon the health of users. Later in the 1900s was a time when medical evidence supported a ground swell of the anti smoking movement which resulted in further restrictions of the use cigarette smoking in public places. Before the anti cigarette smoking revolution, it was both fashionable and manly to either roll your own cigarette or open up a packet of "tailor made's". In the rural and man's man environment the roll your own provided a visual acknowledgement that the user was "true blue" Aussie male and not a city boy. The cycle of use of cigarettes has drastically changed from when this item was first used. Today's society (post 2000) has produced a ground swell of government and non government organisations whose aim is provide a cigarette "ash" free environment and society. This is highlighted in the beginning of the 2000 millennium by a cigarette "Free" Australia campaign, and the pocket flip top personal ash tray as a practical solution for butt litter disposal.This light weight aluminium pocket ash tray not only was used when social graces required it to, but also provided a container for any unfinished cigarettes or stogies (cheap half used cigars). In rural areas (open fresh air countryside), where time was always made available for the "smoko" (Australian rest period), at any time, especially after some hard physical work, the ability to have a self contained ashing apparatus, not to offend the gentler folk, was a pre-requisite . The rural environment, in the days of these cigarette ash containers,was one which could range from harsh and unforgiving to mild and relaxing. Smoking could be enjoyed anywhere and at any time without too much "fussing" around. This ash tray was mobile, convenient, unobtrusive and regarded by the user as being considerate to those around. It also eliminated the tell tale evidence that the "no smoking" signs had been ignored. The Kiewa Valley was like many rural ares that found it hard for smokers to come to grips with a governmental "non smoking policy" to indoor recreational and other "confined space" environments. The covered lid reduces odors and eliminates ashes from being blown around.Aluminium round container with a lid. The opening lid is spring loaded, hinged top, circular and fixed by a clasp, pop- riveted (4) onto the main housing. Opposite the hinge the lid is held closed by a small metal ball fitting tightly to the top wall of the container. The lid is opened by the use of a fingernail positioned at junction of lid to body. This edge is bevelled to allow access.personal effects, tobacco waste products, smoking accessories, tobacco

Photos from a camp for handicapped dependents in January 1992. These photos show different camp activities, including arts and craft, eating meals, cleaning up in the kitchen and outside activities. Some appeared in the newsletter in March 1992. The article mentions that the annual camps run for two weeks at Somers Camp (believed to be Somers School camp). It is a wonderful gathering of Junior Legatees, Legatees, and dedicated helpers. 50 Legatees attended this camp with the personal attention almost one-to-one. With ages ranging from 22 to into the 60s, Legacy has to ensure it caters for the differing needs. Legatees headed by Camp Chief, Jim Hammon and Chairman of the Handicapped Dependents Committee, Merv Tickell, were supported by two Camp Co-Ordinators and 50 helpers known as 'leaders'. Many of the leaders are people in the workforce wishing to give something back to the community. Junior Legatees are organised into groups. They participate in horse-riding, swimming, golfing, strawberry picking, and many other activities. Every month Legacy's handicapped dependents are invited to go on outing for take part in recreational and educational activities. These programmes aim to develop independence and thus lessen the need for reliance on others for simple routine functions. Other photos from the camp are at 01560, 01561, and 01562 and 01564. Photos were in a scrapbook of photos spanning 1983 to 1992.A record of the type of activities Legacy provided for the handicapped dependents of the Legacy families. Black and white photo x 3 of a HDC camp, a label and an article in the newsletter.Handwritten in blue pen 'HDC Camp -Somers / Jan 1992 / Camp Chief: L/ J Hammon / Co-ordinator Julien Hardy-Smith / Photo Eric Wadsworth / 51 J/Ls'junior legatee outing, somers camp

Photos from a cam for handicapped dependents in January 1992. These photos show different camp activities, including arts and craft, eating meals, cleaning up in the kitchen and outside activities. Some appeared in the newsletter in March 1992. The article mentions that the annual camps run for two weeks at Somers Camp (believed to be Somers School Camp). It is a wonderful gathering of Junior Legatees, Legatees, and dedicated helpers. 50 Legatees attended this camp with the personal attention almost one-to-one. With ages ranging from 22 to into the 60s, Legacy has to ensure it caters for the differing needs. Legatees headed by Camp Chief, Jim Hammon and Chairman of the Handicapped Dependents Committee, Merv Tickell, were supported by two Camp Co-Ordinators and 50 helpers known as 'leaders'. Many of the leaders are people in the workforce wishing to give something back to the community. Junior Legatees are organised into groups. They participate in horse-riding, swimming, golfing, strawberry picking, and many other activities. Every month Legacy's handicapped dependents were invited to go on outings or take part in recreational and educational activities. These programmes aim to develop independence and thus lessen the need for reliance on others for simple routine functions. Other photos from the camp are at 01560, 01561, 01562 and 01563. Photos were in a scrapbook of photos spanning 1983 to 1991.A record of the type of activities Legacy provided for the handicapped dependents of the Legacy families. Black and white photo x 2 of a HDC camp, a label and an article in the newsletter.Handwritten in blue pen 'HDC Camp -Somers / Jan 1992 / Camp Chief: L/ J Hammon / Co-ordinator Julien Hardy-Smith / Photo Eric Wadsworth / 51 J/Ls'junior legatee outing, somers, somers camp

Set of 20 photographs taken by Carolyn Dean between 16/4/1999 and 16/5/1999 of moving the ex SEC bike shed to Bungaree and placing the roof back onto the shed and other works at Bungaree and one tram operation photo. On Kodak paper. 1095.1 - Loading the shed at Ballarat East - Alastair Reidier and Peter Winspur. .2 - ditto .3 - truck with shed on approach road to house. .4 - ditto and John Phillips .5 - lifting the shed into position at Bungaree over the power line. .6 - ditto .7 - lowering onto the foundations. .8 - tram 14 in Wendouree Parade near depot junction. .9 - Fixing hole in roof of the house - Bungaree - John Phillips .10 - ditto .11 - its snowing - Darren Hutchesson, Carolyn Dean, Alan Snowball - photo John Phillips .12 - putting roof back on the shed .13 - various cars out front of the house. .14 - nailing weather boards back on - Peter Winspur, Sftnon Jenkins, Alan Snowball .15 - ditto .14 used in the May 1999 Fares Please! .16 - fitting off purlins - Darren Hutchesson and John Phillips .17 - view of house and shed and partially painted fence looking south west. .18 - ditto looking south. .19 - fitting off the sheet metal - John Phillips .20 - cleaning up the tree in frost of the house from breaking off more branches - Alan Snowball and Alastair Reither. .1 > .7-16/4/1999: .8 - 25/4/1999: .9 > .16-15/5/1999: .17 > .20-16/5/1999. See also Reg. No. 1095 for next stage of the move.On rear of each photo in blue ink is date in the upper edge and on lower edge "Photo by Carolyn Dean"btm, sec bike shed, bungaree

Various news articles pertaining to the January 1962 Victorian bushfires in the Dandenong and Healesville districts which by the third day had encompassed large areas of the State. Specific Eltham Shire districts mentioned include Warrandyte on page 1, St. Andrews and Smith’s Gully on page 2, St. Andrews on page 3 and 43, Panton Hill and Warrandyte on p23 and Hurstbridge on page 44 • It's Now Safe in Fire Areas; Death Toll Reaches 8, p1 (Illust.) • How they died, pp1-2 • It was “heaven” in the bush … Boys stayed on . . . to die, pp1-2 (Illust.) • Towns take stock as danger drops, p2 • £5400 to the relief fund, p2 • Fire now threat to Otways, p2 • Pensioners lose all, p2 • “…If Only The Rain Had Come” … and then it came to town, p3 (Illust.) • Our best rain since May • It halted at Grandma’s front gate, p5 (Illust.) • Now that the rain has come; It’s time for the clean-up, p6 • Wisps of smoke where flames danced, p7 • Charitry’s a loser, p7 • War Service homes claim, p7 • Help’s on way, p7 (Illust.) • Came with their gifts …, p7 • Fire summons for youth; “sparked the rest”, p9 • Three gaoled, p9 • They had to camp out at Wye River, p9 (Illust.) • “Probe Fires” – Stoneham, p9 • The Fourth Day: Scorched Earth!, pp22-23 (Illust.) • This home was saved but - , p22 (Illust.) • Relief Centre, p23 (Illust.) • Homeless, p23 (Illust.) • So little was left, p43 (Illust.) • Tommy saved his cat, p43 (Illust.) • Some were lucky … and some were tired, p44 (Illust.) tom fielding collection, victorian bushfires - 1962, victorian bushfires – 1962, ronald ockwell, geoffrey ockwell, woori yallock, william ockwell, leslie ockwell, linda may ockwell, black friday, victorian bushfires – 1939, warrandyte, arthur brown, harold vernon betton, bloom road, william smith, olinda, bushfire relief fund, yarra glen, healesville, railway line, st. andrews, smith’s gully, otway ranges, eric watts, edith varty, inverness road, mt. evelyn, wye river, panton hil, heather sullivan, warrandyte hall, montrose, kalorama, mrs e. tucker, shirley tucker, margaret tucker, joane tucker, roger tucker, trevor tucker, ann quinton, tom dunstan, hurstbridge hall

Yields information about the damage as a result of a collision between a semi trailer and bogie tram.Digital image from the Wal Jack Ballarat Album of an accident involving Ballarat Tram No. 37 which collided with a semi trailer, resulting in the semi trailer being overturned and severe damage to the front cabin of the tram. Has a photo of a workman cleaning the scene up. At the intersection of Drummond St South and South St. Assumed to be a Courier Photograph. See image i2 for rear of photograph. See Reg Item 6313 and 5589 for a copy of the newspaper story. See Reg Item 7734 for a photo of the tram in the depot after the accident.Written on rear in ink "Ballarat tram No. 37 with smashed cabin, semi trailer overturned, Drummond St South at South St intersection 8AM 15-4-54"trams, tramways, accidents, ballarat, drummond st, collision, tram 37

Set of 13 transparencies taken on 28/4/1971 on PAKON mounts. 1168.1 - No. 21 at City terminus - taken from North side of street. Has Boer War statue on right side and National Mutual building in the background. 1168.2 - No. 34 with destination "Sebastopol" in Sturt St., outside Town Hall, with National Mutual building in background. 1168.3 - No. 18 at corner of Sturt and Lydiard Sts with National Mutual building and Craigs Hotel in background. 1168.4 - 18 at intersection of Sturt and Dawson St. 1168.5 - No. 30 at intersection of Armstrong St and Sturt St. with Fletcher Jones building in background. 1168.6 - No. 14 at City Terminus, showing destination of "Victoria St." with Town Hall in the background. 1168.7 - No. 11 bound for Mt Pleasant, opposite Titanic Bandstand in Sturt St. Has a Twin Lakes advertisement on the front dash panel and an unknown roof advertisement. 1168.8 - No. 21 at bottom of Sturt St. approaching the Grenville St. junction, with Dickins Food Store and the Spot Cafe in the background. Tram has destination of "Victoria St". and a roof advertisement for a cigarette? company. 1168.9 - No. 26 and three other trams in City Loop, looking west along Sturt St., just after a heavy hail storm. 1168.10 - No. 21 at the intersection of Sturt St and Dawson St. with Golden City Hotel and the Ritzy Cafe in the background. Can see the Dawson St. crossover track, just after a heavy hail storm. 1168.11 - No. 21 and three other trams at City Loop looking east along the south side of Sturt St. See also image 1168i1a - cleaned up and edited by Peter Waugh April 2024 - used in the April 2024 issue of Fares Please. 1168.12 - No. 14 entering the South side of Sturt St. from Bridge St. with Dickins Store in the background and the Grenville St. shelter alongside the tram. 1168.13 - No. 37 at Sturt and Dawson St., eastbound, showing "Lydiard St. Nth" Has SEC roof advertisement on the side of the tram.1168.1 -"Sturt & Lydiard Sts" 1168.2 - "Town Hall" 1168.3 - "Sturt St & Dawson Sts" 1168.4 - "Sturt and Lydiard Sts" 1168.5 - "Sturt St." 1168.6 - "Sturt and Lydiard Sts" 1168.7 - "Sturt St." 1168.8 - "Bridge St." 1168.9 - "City Loop" 1168.10 -"Dawson & Sturt Sts." 1168.11 - "City Loop" 1168.12 - "Bridge St." All have date stamp of "28 Apr 1971" in purple ink on base. All blue ink unless otherwise noted.tramways, trams, town hall, sturt st., dawson st, armstrong st., grenville st, bridge st., titanic bandstand, tram 11, tram 14, tram 18, tram 21, tram 26, tram 30, tram 34, tram 37

Requires more research. The flag appears to be a commemorative listing of British seafarers of World War 2 noting those who served, but this needs confirmation and an improved image. The flag was removed from permanent display in the Flying Angels Club as it requires assessment for cleaning of a build up of dust and smoke. See also existing condition report a new inspection needs to be carried out.If simply a listing of British merchant seamen visiting the Missions in the 2nd half of the 20th Century it is also notable in the history of the MTSV at 717 Flinders st.If confirmed as a WW2 memorial it is also significant. Reg nylon based flag with Union Jack in the top left corner. White trimming down left side with two metal hoops, one at each end. Across the Union Jack is written, 'THE BRITISH MERCHANT NAVY' and in small writing at the bottom of the Union Jack it reads, 'DONATED BY MIKE HALL IN THE U.K.'. Down the right side of the flag says, 'FLAG DONATED BY MIKE HALL IN THE U.K.' The red portion of the flag is covered with handwritten seamen's names and the seamen's registration numbers. THE BRITISH MERCHANT NAVY DONATED BY MIKE HALL IN THE U.K. FLAG DONATED BY MIKE HALL IN THE U.K. See image for more detail flag, british, mike hall, union jack, names, red ensign, merchant navy

In March 1892, Melbourne Butcher John Stamford took a prospective tenant to a house he owned at 57 Andrew Street Windsor. He noticed a 'disagreeable smell' coming from the front rooms. Suspecting foul play, Stamford called the police who quickly discovered a decomposing body and partially clad body of a young woman in a shallow grave under the fireplace. 'Her skull had been shattered and her throat cut'. Two detectives, Sergeants Considine and Cawsey, began investigations. The previous tenant, a 'Mr. Druin' who had rented the house had since disappeared was the main suspect. 'Druin' had arrived in Australia from England as 'Albert Williams' in December 1891 with his 24 year old wife Emily Mather. The body was Emily's. The crime scene investigation proved difficult as the suspect - whatever his real name- had cleaned up the scene very carefully. Much later it was discovered that the suspect was in fact Frederick Bayley Deeming, a former sailor born in Birkenhead, Cheshire, in 1854. In 1881, Deeming deserted his ship and lived in Sydney where he married and had a family. Deeply in debt, he later burned his business down to claim its insurance value and fled to South Africa before he could be arrested. He is believed to have committed numerous frauds and murders in Africa. Eventually found in Uruguay, he spent time in prison in England for fraud. After being released he married Emily and returned to Australia. After leaving England, British police began investigating him over the murder of Mrs Marie Deeming and her four children. Now using another alias, 'Baron Swanston', Deeming was arrested in Western Australia before he left the country in the company of a young woman, Kate Rounsefell, whom he planned to marry. It seems Kate would have been his next murder victim. Brought back to Victoria, in May 1892, Deeming went on trail for the murder of Emily Mather. Despite a strong defense conducted by a brilliant young barrister and 3 times Australian Prime Minister Alfred Deakin, the evidence against Deeming was overwhelming and he was found guilty. Deeming was hanged at Melbourne Gaol on 23 May 1892. He was known to be responsible for at least 6 murders and may have committed others. Black and white photograph backed onto black backing board showing a man in a long coat and top hat with his hands in his pockets and a moustachefrederick deeming, emily mather, murders

In March 1892, Melbourne Butcher John Stamford took a prospective tenant to a house he owned at 57 Andrew Street Windsor. He noticed a 'disagreeable smell' coming from the front rooms. Suspecting foul play, Stamford called the police who quickly discovered a decomposing body and partially clad body of a young woman in a shallow grave under the fireplace. 'Her skull had been shattered and her throat cut'. Two detectives, Sergeants Considine and Cawsey, began investigations. The previous tenant, a 'Mr. Druin' who had rented the house had since disappeared was the main suspect. 'Druin' had arrived in Australia from England as 'Albert Williams' in December 1891 with his 24 year old wife Emily Mather. The body was Emily's. The crime scene investigation proved difficult as the suspect - whatever his real name- had cleaned up the scene very carefully. Much later it was discovered that the suspect was in fact Frederick Bayley Deeming, a former sailor born in Birkenhead, Cheshire, in 1854. In 1881, Deeming deserted his ship and lived in Sydney where he married and had a family. Deeply in debt, he later burned his business down to claim its insurance value and fled to South Africa before he could be arrested. He is believed to have committed numerous frauds and murders in Africa. Eventually found in Uruguay, he spent time in prison in England for fraud. After being released he married Emily and returned to Australia. After leaving England, British police began investigating him over the murder of Mrs Marie Deeming and her four children. Now using another alias, 'Baron Swanston', Deeming was arrested in Western Australia before he left the country in the company of a young woman, Kate Rounsefell, whom he planned to marry. It seems Kate would have been his next murder victim. Brought back to Victoria, in May 1892, Deeming went on trail for the murder of Emily Mather. Despite a strong defense conducted by a brilliant young barrister and 3 times Australian Prime Minister Alfred Deakin, the evidence against Deeming was overwhelming and he was found guilty. Deeming was hanged at Melbourne Gaol on 23 May 1892. He was known to be responsible for at least 6 murders and may have committed others. Black and white photograph backed onto black board showing a lady in dark clothing and hat resting with her right elbow on the arm of a lounge. Woman is holding a small sprig of flowers in her left handEmily Lydia Mather. Murdered by Deeming 1892 (in black ink along top of photograph)frederick deeming, emily mather, murders

In March 1892, Melbourne Butcher John Stamford took a prospective tenant to a house he owned at 57 Andrew Street Windsor. He noticed a 'disagreeable smell' coming from the front rooms. Suspecting foul play, Stamford called the police who quickly discovered a decomposing body and partially clad body of a young woman in a shallow grave under the fireplace. 'Her skull had been shattered and her throat cut'. Two detectives, Sergeants Considine and Cawsey, began investigations. The previous tenant, a 'Mr. Druin' who had rented the house had since disappeared was the main suspect. 'Druin' had arrived in Australia from England as 'Albert Williams' in December 1891 with his 24 year old wife Emily Mather. The body was Emily's. The crime scene investigation proved difficult as the suspect - whatever his real name- had cleaned up the scene very carefully. Much later it was discovered that the suspect was in fact Frederick Bayley Deeming, a former sailor born in Birkenhead, Cheshire, in 1854. In 1881, Deeming deserted his ship and lived in Sydney where he married and had a family. Deeply in debt, he later burned his business down to claim its insurance value and fled to South Africa before he could be arrested. He is believed to have committed numerous frauds and murders in Africa. Eventually found in Uruguay, he spent time in prison in England for fraud. After being released he married Emily and returned to Australia. After leaving England, British police began investigating him over the murder of Mrs Marie Deeming and her four children. Now using another alias, 'Baron Swanston', Deeming was arrested in Western Australia before he left the country in the company of a young woman, Kate Rounsefell, whom he planned to marry. It seems Kate would have been his next murder victim. Brought back to Victoria, in May 1892, Deeming went on trail for the murder of Emily Mather. Despite a strong defense conducted by a brilliant young barrister and 3 times Australian Prime Minister Alfred Deakin, the evidence against Deeming was overwhelming and he was found guilty. Deeming was hanged at Melbourne Gaol on 23 May 1892. He was known to be responsible for at least 6 murders and may have committed others. Medium sized photograph of Frederick Deeming with a moustache drawn on the image in inkFrederick B. Deeming (on image in black ink)frederick deeming, emily lydia mather, murders

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware