This Post Office Receiving Pillar was restored in 1980 and is now a fully operational Australia Post mailbox. In early August 1980 Prime Minister Mr. Fraser posted Warrnambool’s first commemorative envelope into this restored Post Office Receiving Pillar at Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village. The special limited edition envelopes are numbered 1 – 7000. When posted, the envelopes would have the Flagstaff Hill Logo and Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village’s own postmark of a ship’s steering wheel surrounding a lighthouse and a sailing ship, and were dated August 3 on the First Day Cover. Amongst Flagstaff Hill’s collection is that very first letter posted by Prime Minister Fraser. HISTORY OF POST OFFICE RECEIVING PILLARS In 1851 ‘pillar boxes’ were installed at roadside locations in the island of Jersey, England; they had already been successful in several European countries. The use of new prepaid, adhesive postage stamps as well as the roadside pillar boxes meant there was no need for the public to take a trip to the Post Office just to post a letter. By 1855 London had installed its first six Pillar Boxes. In 1856 the pillar boxes were first introduced in Sydney. These were circular with a crown on the dome, supported by leaves. Early Victoria Mail was originally collected by ‘letter carriers’, first appointed in Melbourne in 1841, equipped with leather bag and hand bell. He wore a red coat with brass buttons and a black top hat! In 1844 two wooden receiving boxes were erected in Melbourne. The first cast iron boxes were installed in South Melbourne (Emerald Hill) and were still in service until 1967. They were a fluted circular design and made in England. In the early 1860’s the ‘low door round’ design posting box was introduced, being circular and surrounded by a crown, with two broad embossed bands around its circumference. The clearance door was in front of the box and low down. These were made in Australia. In the early 1870’s square boxes with a tapering top were being used. These too were made in Australia by different manufacturers with slight variations on style such as the orientation and number of slots. Next came the circular boxes again, similar to the ‘low door round’ but with the clearance door extending to just below the posting slot, often referred to as ‘high door round’. These boxes did not have embossed bands. In 1887 small cast iron boxes were introduced, attached to posts and poles and called ‘lamp post receivers’. Around 1930 a ‘London’ model was used in Victoria. It was copied from the flat-domed type in London but made in Tasmania. [References: Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village records, The Warrnambool Standard, August 1st, 1980, “Stamps.Au” http://www.stampsau.com, 4th April 2011 (Extracted from “Australian Street Posting Boxes” by Ken Sparks – out of print)] Post Office Receiving Pillar, or letterbox.1885 “High Door Round” design. Tall cast iron cylinder with decorative dome cap with crown on top. Side has a slot and a hinged door with handle shaped as a fist. Painted red with gold trim. “POST OFFICE / RECEIVING PILLAR” lettering cast into cylinder. Restored in 1980 and once again operating as an Australia Post mailbox. Commemorative plague on pillar.“POST OFFICE / RECEIVING PILLAR” lettering cast into cylinder. Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum – Port of Warrnambool. This letter receiver was officially commissioned on 3rd August 1980 by the Prime Minister of Australia, the Right Honourable Malcolm Fraser M.P. on completion of 25 years’ service as the Federal Minister for Wannon.”flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, post office receiving pillar, letterbox, mailbox, australia post

Post Office Receiving Pillar was Collected from Warrnambool City Council’s Scott Street Depot and transported to Flagstaff Hill, stored in the Barracks area Friends of Flagstaff Hill began the project of restoring the Post Office Receiving Pillar in early 2011. The replacement dome required a pattern to be made from paper, then timber, then someone to manufacture it. The cast iron body required sand blasting and undercoating. The pillar was installed in Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village in March 2014. A specialist visited the Village and painted the pillar with 7 coats of ‘post office red’ then completed the job with gold paint on the details. In 2015 an information plate of brass was fitted to the Pillar in the position that would have originally announced the clearing times. It was originally manufactured by G Couch, Engineer, Alliance Iron Works, Melbourne. Gordon Couch passed away in June 1896 and his Works were offered for auction in November 1897. HISTORY OF POST OFFICE RECEIVING PILLARS In 1851 ‘pillar boxes’ were installed at roadside locations in the island of Jersey, England; they had already been successful in several European countries. The use of new prepaid, adhesive postage stamps as well as the roadside pillar boxes meant there was no need for the public to take a trip to the Post Office just to post a letter. By 1855 London had installed its first six Pillar Boxes. In 1856 the pillar boxes were first introduced in Sydney. These were circular with a crown on the dome, supported by leaves. Early Victoria Mail was originally collected by ‘letter carriers’, first appointed in Melbourne in 1841, equipped with leather bag and hand bell. He wore a red coat with brass buttons and a black top hat! In 1844 two wooden receiving boxes were erected in Melbourne. The first cast iron boxes were installed in South Melbourne (Emerald Hill) and were still in service until 1967. They were a fluted circular design and made in England. In the early 1860’s the ‘low door round’ design posting box was introduced, being circular and surrounded by a crown, with two broad embossed bands around its circumference. The clearance door was in front of the box and low down. These were made in Australia. In the early 1870’s square boxes with a tapering top were being used. These too were made in Australia by different manufacturers with slight variations on style such as the orientation and number of slots. Next came the circular boxes again, similar to the ‘low door round’ but with the clearance door extending to just below the posting slot, often referred to as ‘high door round’. These boxes did not have embossed bands. In 1887 small cast iron boxes were introduced, attached to posts and poles and called ‘lamp post receivers’. Around 1930 a ‘London’ model was used in Victoria. It was copied from the flat-domed type in London but made in Tasmania. … [References: Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village records, The Argus, 11th April, 1890, The Argus, 2nd July, 1896, The Argus, 30th Nov. 1897, “Stamps.Au” http://www.stampsau.com, 4th April 2011 (Extracted from “Australian Street Posting Boxes” by Ken Sparks – out of print)] Post Office Receiving Pillar, or letterbox.1885 "High Door Round" design, restored 2014 Tall cast iron sylinder with decorative dome cap, slot in side, hinged door with handle shaped as a fist. Painted red with gold trip..Reconditioned barrel, reconstructed dome. Restored by Friends of Flagstaff Hill, 2014. Now a working letterbox. Made in Melbourne.Oval maker's plate “ - G. COUCH - / ENGINEER / ALLIANCE IRON / WORKS / MELBOURNE”flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, post office receiving pillar, letterbox, mailbox, australia post

Brown canvas roll bag with leather trim. A stitched leather handle is attached to the top with metal clasps. The top of the roll is reinforced with a wooden brace enclosed in a canvas sleeve. Inside is a large pocket with khaki cotton pocket and two open flaps, all secured with cotton straps. Two leather straps used to secure the bag when rolled up are missing.Nilpersonal effects, travelgoods, trades-leatherworking, medicine - nursing

G. Harper was a saddler and harness maker located at Bath Corner, Charring Cross. He advertised in The Bendigo Advertiser in 1892A brown suitcase with two metal clasps which could be locked. There are two travel stickers, ones a Victorian railways luggage Melbourne Albury which is partly missing, the other is The CHALET MT BUFFALO Nation Park. On the inside of the lid there are two labels one is black with gold letters G. HARPER NEW BAG SHOP Leather Goods & Ladies' Hand Bags Travelling Bags & Trunks Saddler & Harness Maker Charing Cross BENDIGO The other is light blue with black writing, QUALITY Guaranteed M.B. Fibre CASE.182 underlined made in bendigo, suitcase, g. harper saddler and harness maker

The MDNS Sisters are packing their belongs ready to move from their current Nurses Home at 39 Victoria Parade, Collingwood to their new Nurses Home and Headquarters situated at 452 St Kilda Road, Melbourne, then known as 'Airlie'. From its founding in 1885 until 1891 the Trained nurses (Nurses) of the Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS) worked from their own homes which were located in the vicinity of their areas (districts). The Committee meetings were held at the Religious Tract Society rooms at Queen’s walk, off Swanston Street and then at the Library Room at the Melbourne Town Hall. The Annual General Meeting was held at the Town Hall. In November 1891 MDNS was able to rent a two story terraced house at 66 Cardigan Street, Carlton, at £65 a year, which contained accommodation for three Nurses and one pupil nurse as well as being used as their Headquarters. They left from their Nurses Home each morning and returned at the end of their shift to write up their book work before retiring for the day. Three years later they moved into a larger terraced house at 49 Drummond Street Carlton which was rented at ‘a very moderate rental’. There was a Board room, apartments for the Nurses and pupil nurse, a large dispensary which patients could attend each evening to have prescriptions signed and bottles refilled with ‘homely remedies’ and elixirs, which were administered for e.g. to Consumptive cases. Doctor’s prescriptions were filled at the Pharmacy. Cupboards containing donated blankets and bedclothes for needy patients were kept in this room, and it was here where the Nurses kept their nursing bags which were refilled at the end of each shift ready for any emergency and for the next day. A list of Doctors the Nurses could call was kept by the telephone. The home also had a kitchen where nourishing soup was made and distributed twice a week to the needy. Milk was also distributed when needed. In 1902 they moved into rented premises at 188 Leicester Street, Carlton and two years later, in 1904, to premises at 5 Royal Terrace, Nicholson Street, Fitzroy where they remained for ten years. In June 1914 at last the Society had sufficient funds to purchase their own terraced premises, ‘Floraston’ 39 Victoria Parade, Collingwood which was their Headquarters and Nurses Home. In 1926 the After-Care Home for recovering patients, (later called After-Care Hospital) was built by the Society next door, running from 41-47 Victoria Parade (became No. 45). There were now two divisions with the After Care having their owned Trained nurses (Sisters) and the District Division of Trained nurses (Sisters) who continued to live at No. 39. In November 1953 the Sisters working in the District Nursing Division moved into their new Headquarters and Nurses Home at 452 St. Kilda Road, Melbourne. In 1957 this Division changed its name to the Melbourne District Nursing Service when it separated from the After-Care Hospital. It was given Royal patronage in 1966 and became Royal District Nursing Service (RDNS). As it expanded, and now with Centres opening throughout the suburbs, the Nurses Home at 452 closed and those rooms used for administrative purposes. It now had outlying districts to service, and with a full fleet of District cars, the Sisters lived in their own homes and visited their closest District Centre each morning to collect their work for the day and returned there at the end of their community duties to do their administrative work. On April the 1st 1996 RDNS Head Office relocated to 31 Alma Road, St. Kilda. Standing in a semi circle of this photograph are 5 Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS) Sisters in their long sleeve grey uniform dresses which have a belt, peaked collars and white buttons down the centre. They are wearing their grey brimmed hats with a central Maltese cross on the light colour headband over their short dark curled hair. From Left to Right are Sisters Marianne Metcalf who is smiling and is holding a tennis racket and soft sided oblong travel bag which has two leather straps and handle in her right hand; it is resting on a closed case, which has two leather straps across the lid; this sits in front of her. Next is Gerda Oppenheim who is looking serious and has her right hand on the top of the lid of an open case in front of her, then Beryl Rowley, who is smiling and has her hands on a narrow white metal horizontal pole which has a vertical pole attached. Next is Marcia Parrat who is smiling and is holding a piece of white linen on the open case, and next, on the far right, is Florence Hoey who is holding a piece of white linen on top of an open hard leather travelling bag which is sitting in front of her next to the closed case. melbourne district nursing society, mdns, mdns headquarters, sister marianne metcalf, sister gerda oppenheim, sister beryl rowley, sister marcia parrat, sister florence hoey, royal district nursing service, rdns

Used as an overnight bag and was carried at the front of the saddle.Rectangular, brown leather valise with straps on front. Folds in half for storage. To be used in front of a saddle.Written inside: A. Davidson Buchanvalise personal-effects saddle-bag

J.Kennon & Sons were known particularly for their use of the chrome tanning process. They were also buyers and exporters of Australian skins and wool.The firm had tanning works,, established in 1863, offices and stores in the vicinity of River Street, Richmond and a leather warehouse in Bridge Road. [ Source -Heritage Victoria https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiI7OnmofT_AhUia2wGHXNGCaUQFnoECBQQAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.heritage.vic.gov.au%2Fattachment%2F24257&usg=AOvVaw0ER8QGZ-3eW4PAg0VM909h&opi=89978449]HistoricalCream coloured account with details eg product and amount in black ink. Includes a separate piece of paper attached to page, with a recipe for vermin destroyer typed in red ink.Credit account of N. L. Smith, Rhyll, Phillip Island. One bag of Rabbit Weevily. March 23, 1914 J. Kennon & Sons River Street, Richmondn.l.smith rhyll, j.kennon and sons, rabbit poison, account, vermin

Belonged to No1606 Frederick Robey Nicholls. Enlisted 18.5.1915 in No.1 A.G.H age 18 years and 2 months and embarked 26.5.1915. Transferred to 5th Field Ambulance. Discharged 11.8.1919. Used for carrying medical supplies.Canvas carry bag. Inside a series of pockets and slots to carry various items. Fold over lid to close pack via two metal studs. A shoulder strap on top of bag connected to bag by 2 metal rings. Strap is broken. Two small copper studs at bottom of bag and one larger. Metal and leather stud on right side of bag.On back of bag in black "AMBULANCE" and No. "1606".ambulance, medical bag

John Glass Cramond 1829 and James Dickson 1831-1910 were founders of a large drapery store. Both were Scots and both came separately to Australia in 1852. Cramond initially came for gold but soon opened a store in St Kilda with a post Office attached and he was the first post master there. Dickson was a farmer’s son but became a draper and while he was unsuccessful on the Bendigo diggings and then returned to Melbourne where he met Cramond and soon after they opened a store on Lonsdale Street. They opened their business in Warrnambool in 1855 as a general store with groceries, drapery and ironmongery. Both partners were involved with the community and James Dickson was an original director of the Warrnambool Woollen Mill 1909 and the Warrnambool Cheese and butter factory. He also served on the committee of management of Warrnambool Base Hospital. This case was a wedding gift from James Dickson Jnr to his wife Mary Glass Cramond on the occasion of their wedding. This item has significance on a number of levels. It belonged to a member of one of Warrnambool’s earliest pioneering families and it marks the occasion when the two families of Cramond and Dickson were linked through the marriage of James Dickson jnr and Mary Glass Cramond. The firm played a significant part in the development of the city and traded for nearly 150 years. It therefore has social significance to Warrnambool. The item is well provenance with the case initialed and items within the case monogrammed. The case and its items are aesthetically quite beautiful as well as being typical of travelling or dressing cases of the more well to do, of the time. Mappin & Webb were manufacturers of some standing with the Mappin name appearing in manufacturing as early as 1775.The company has held a royal warrant as silversmiths since 1897 to the present day and as crown jeweler since 2012. Throughout this time, they have manufactured quality items for the luxury market. It provides an insight into the way ladies travelled and the items which they considered essential. This consists of a black leather with leather handle attached with brass fittings. Middle opening with side pocket on one side with metal catches. Inside has removable sections for holding the numerous containers and items belonging to the case. Interior of the case is dark blue satin. The items contained within the case are as follows: 321.1 Luggage case 321.2 Glass bottle rectangular, silver monogrammed lid, empty. 321.3 Tall round glass bottle, silver monogrammed lid, empty. 321.4 Small glass bottle with pink powder, silver monogrammed lid. 321.5 Small multi sided bottle with stopper and brass hinged lid. 321.6 Tall round bottle with silver monogrammed lid. 321.7 Tall thin multi sided bottle with brass lid. 321.8 Cream coloured monogrammed jar cotton wool inside. 321.9 Clothes brush rectangular cream back. 321.10.1Glove stretcher bone coloured .10.2 Case black leather. 321.11.1 hair comb cream with silver edge .11.2 Case black leather 321.12 Hair brush cream handle 321.13Spatula cream monogrammed 321.14 Mirror, silver round with handle. 321.15 Writing compendium .1 Case black leather .2 Pen with nib .3 Lead pencil .4 Navy satin covered blotting book 321.16 Inkwell glass bottle in small black leather case. 321.17 Match striker in leather case. 321.18 Mirror in black leather case rectangular 321.19 Small case for visiting cards. 321.20Sewing kit rectangular, contains threads and needles pkts x 3 321.21Container, small, hinged tortoise shell patterned. 321.22.1 Manicure set .2 Scissors small .3 Scissors large .4Corkscrew with Mother of pearl handle .5 Pocket knife with Mother of pearl handle .6Tweezers with Mother of pearl handle .7 File with Mother of pearl handle .8 Fine hook Mother of pearl handle .9 Bodkin .10 Bodkin 321.23 Hairbrush oval silver backed 321.24 Mirror silver handled hand mirror. 321.25 Hairbrush wooden handled with Mother of pearl inlay. 321.26 Cylinder, silver with removable lid and small phial of iodine labelled Felton’s pocket iodine. 321.27 Phial small glass with gold decorations. 321.28 Inhaler with insert 321.29 Thimble, metal. 321.30 Silver backed hair brush 321.31 silver backed clothes brushEngraved on side pocket: M.G.D. Mappin and Webb Sheffield and London. Some of the items are monogrammed as per the list above. A number of the glass bottles have lids hallmarked Mappin & Webb London and Sheffield makers stamped inside lid with hall marks history of warrnambool, cramond and dickson, mary glass cramond, dressing bag, woman's toiletry bag 1880

Satchels such as these were commonly used by young boys to carry their lunch and school items between school and home. They were used commonly in the days when much of the requirements such as slates and paper were used as class sets. They proved to be serviceable and required only the most basic of maintenace as in stitching, to be kept in good order. Being adjustable they would also serve a student for a number of years.No information is available on Henry Alexander Cain of Surrey Hills.A common item with which many people would identify.Brown leather rectanular satchel with gusset on either side . It is fastened on the front with two metal buckles and has four adjustable leather back straps attached to the bag with metal studs. These are adjustable through holes in the leather straps. Likewise the front straps can be fastened in a number of different holes. The leather has an overall snake skin pattern.Solid leather is stamped in the leather on the front. henry Alexander Cain ******Rd Surrey Hillswarrnambool, school history, boy's school bag

A satchel used by students to carry their requirements to and fro between school and home. Typically it would contain lunch and a homework book generally a small exercise book which would contain the set work for the evening. They were sturdily and simply constructed so as to withstand the daily rigour of the school ground.A common object with which many people would identifyBrown leather satchel with gusset on either side. The surface has crocodile skin profile. Two leather straps with buckles on either side. The back has straps which are fastened with metal studs at the top and laced through slits at the bottom . The strap itself is joined with a buckle. One side has been restitched toward the bottom of the satchel.Four purple "Warrnambool and District Historical Society" stamps on the inside. The remnants of a name which is unreadable. "5620" in red on left hand side. A stamp *** leather and other details which are unreadable.warrnambool, school satchel, boys' leather satchel, school bags

This is a suitcase known as a Gladstone bag. It is named after William Gladstone (1809-1898), a four-time Prime Minister of England. Gladstone bags were first produced by Edward Cole in London in 1854. This item has no particular local provenance but bags such as this one were commonly used, mainly by men, for business and sporting purposes. As it was compact and stored quite a lot of material in its deep interior, it was a popular choice for men travelling by public transport to the workplace or to sporting events. This Gladstone bag is retained for display purposes as an example of a mid 20th century suitcase.This is a small suitcase, called a Gladstone bag, made of stiffened brown leather built over a rigid metal frame. It has a leather handle on top of the metal frame and a metal lock on the side of the frame. There are metal clips to enclose the ends of the frame. There are metal straps attached to the sides of the case. Inside, the bag is lined with light brown cloth and there are two pockets on one side. The metal parts are somewhat rusted. warrnambool, vintage suitcases, gladstone bag, history of warrnambool

This item is one of several in a collection of tools that are believed to have been owned by the Warrnambool carpenter and businessman, Henry Phillips. The needles are bag needles, used with leather or string to sew up and enclose hessian bags etc. English-born Henry Phillips (1821-1896) came to Australia with his wife Elizabeth in 1849. They lived for some time in Port Fairy. In 1865 Henry formed a partnership with Christopher Beattie to establish the Warrnambool undertaking business of Beattie and Phillips. This business continued on after the deaths of the founders and lasted until the year 2000. In Warrnambool Henry Phillips was involved in the management of the Mechanics Institute.This is a wooden case, elliptical in shape, with a detachable lid. The case is pointed at both ends. The lid is bound at one end with several strands of string. The case contains twelve metal needles of varying lengths and eye hole sizes. Two of the needles have curved ends and several have flattened middle sections. The needles are much rusted and the case is stained.Made in Englandvintage tools, henry phillips

T. Woolman, Volunteer Defence Corp1. Bag - canvas, Brown, single strap, flap, cover, metal studs. 2. Bag backpack - canvas, brown, leather straps, metal buckles.1. ARP AMM Section S.uniform, accessory, bags

This bag forms part of the Light Horseman’s KitThis is a leather container. The top section is double layered with two oval shaped slots. The bag section has a leather flap with 2 straps. The bag section can expand out to 50-60mm. The top section piece of leather forms the back of the bag. The straps and buckles are held in place with copper rivets and washers. ww1, australian light horse

VX 32652 Doug Dean was in the 7 Div. A.A.S.C. in the siege of Tobruk, He was also in the Bendigo Branch of the Rats of Tobruk Assocition. Refer Cat No 4575PThis was a white cylindrical canvas bag. It is hemmed at the top with a piece of manila rope as a draw cord. The base is of similar material. There is a small piece of soft red leather glued near the base. On two sides and the base are "VX32652 D. Dean".ww2, rats of tobruk,

This case may have once attached to the belt of a soldier as a carry case for an artillery sight.Dark leather case constructed of two elongated semi-circle shapes, hand or machine stitched with a gusset. Edges trimmed in leather binding and rectangular lid held in place on one side by stitched leather hinge and fastened with metal buckle on other side. Reverse of the case has a leather loop held in place with stitching and 6 metal studs or rivets; a metal rectangular loop is stitched in place with fine wire twisted and attached to loop. Interior of case appears to be felted wool or fibre, cream in colour with small leather loop on right side, perhaps to hold a small accessory. Front of case is stamped with manufacturer's name; lid has remnants of a circular adhesive label.Manufacturer's stamp reads "FRANZ COBAL/BERLIN/1916"carry case, bag, accessory, acoutrement, world war one, military, uniform, world war i, first world war, the great war, germany, german, berlin, franz cobal, franz cobalt, artillery sight

The 1908 pattern was used during WWI, made from woven cotton & water proofed. The kit is used for school groups.Webbing kit complete including 1908 pattern webbing, gas mask haversack, personnel items, rations. Refer attached sheet. .1) Waist belt with brass buckles & keepers. .2) Braces x 2, connects to waist belt & large pack. .3) Bayonet. .4) Bayonet carrier. .5) Bayonet scabbard. .6) Entrenching tool carrier [fits to .5)]. .7) Entrenching tool handle, wood & metal [fits to .6)]. .8) Entrenching tool, metal, combination shovel & pick. .9) Entrenching tool carrier [fits inside .8)]. .10) Cartridge carriers x 2, 1 left hand, 1 right hand. .11) Water bottle, metal, blue colour. .12) Water bottle cover, khaki wool. .13) Water bottle carrier. .14) Pack, large. .15) Great coat, wool, [inside .14)]. .16) Helmet, steel with inside liner & chin strap. .17) Mess tin carrier, replica. .18) Haversack, side pack. .19) Carry all, white cotton, for personnel hygiene items [inside .18)]. .20) Razor, cut throat [inside .19)]. .21) Comb [inside .19)]. .22) Toothbrush [inside .19)]. .23) Shaving brush [inside .19)]. .24) Laces, leather, not original, [inside .19)]. .25) Soap [inside .19)]. .26) Tin bully beef x 2, replicas, [inside .18)]. .27) Tin stew, replica, [inside .18)]. .28) Pair socks, khaki wool, not original, [inside .18)]. .29) Field dressing, WWII issue, [inside .18)]. .30) Towel, brown colour, not original, [inside .18)]. .31) Gas mask carrier bag & straps. (Cowley) .32) Water bottle, metal, blue colour, [inside .31)].Items 1 - 13, there are numerous markings all stamped on from, “A.A.O.D”, “L”, “R”, “S”, “M.E.C.O”, “49th INF”, Years examples, “8.12”, “1.13”, “1911”military history - equipment / army, medicine-first aid, personal effects - containers, toilet requisites - shaving

547.1 Saw, cross cut, small, metal, folds into circle, holes for handles. 547.2 Bag, plastic, hold fold up saw. 547.3 Tool kit pouch, leather, brown colour, fitted to hold accessories, fold over lid attaches to a brass button. 547.4 File, metal, 3 corner, small. 547.5 Metal item, possibly for sharpening, has 2 grooves, fits handles. 547.6 & .7 Handles, wood with metal ring, fits saw and file etc.547.1 R.I. 1943 ↑33tools, saw kit, equipment, military

Item issued to Frank Levy (Major) served pre WW1 and AIF in the Light Horse and Artillery. Refer Cat No 1924.2 for his service history.Horse Nose Bag made from heavy duty canvas, round shape, has 8 holes via metal studs. The bag has one strap combining a canvas section sewn to a heavy leather belt adjustable on the one end."F LEVY"transport - horse, military history, trades - leatherworking

This case is for a testing voltmeter recorder. The last time it was certified by SEC Vic laboratories on the 17/4/77. It was used extensively in the transportation of the mobile recorder which was sometimes placed for periods of one month at locations experiencing unacceptable fluctuations of power. These locations would cover the North East regions of Victoria. They cover voltage drops at domestic and business properties especially those that were experiencing regular fluctuations(daily) at approximately the same time of the day. As the electrical network is required to operate within a set level of voltage, fluctuations outside of this has to be investigated and necessary remedial action taken. This is especially so for rural properties where power "drainage" can occur through animal/bird and tree interference. See KVHS 0302 (A) for the instrument.This case for a mobile voltage recorder is very significant to the Kiewa Valley because it highlights the difficulties that can occur in maintaining a power supply that experiences fluctuating power demands by the rural industries that it supplies. The requirement of a mobile testing apparatus to cover the various sections in the Kiewa Valley and other rural areas in the northeast region is one of necessity as electricity once connected to a rural property is a labour saving supply as generators on rural properties require a higher degree of maintenance an ultimately at a higher cost. The testing of the SEC Vic supplied electricity to rural properties,those who had previously run on generators, had to be quick and unassuming with certainty of correct supply levels.This heavy and thick all leather case for the "easy" transportation of the Volt meter recorder has a opening top which pop riveted to the main body(rivets are aluminium). The all leather top has a shaped carrying handle which is also riveted on. There are two straps on the side of the top which can be fastened to the main body by metal "shoe" buckles. The bottom end is secured to the main bag by large rivets.Tick grade stitching is on all corners.Nilsec vic kiewa hydro scheme, alternate energy supplies, alpine growth in electricity consumption

Vinyl bag protected Doug's skis while travelling to the 1976 Winter Olympic Games.Handmade ski bag used to store and carry Doug Mc Conville's downhill skis. Doug skied in the 1976 Winter Olympic Games.Custom made and vinyl lined brown fabric bag with 120 cm zipper with 3 blue leather straps open-ended pocket with blue leather binding on one side. "D" initial in blue leather.Blue leather 'D'skis. doug mc conville. snow.

Used by Doug Mc Conville in the 1976 Winter Olympics. He crashed in his event.Local skier, Doug McConville skied at Falls Creek and used the skis in the 1976 Winter Olympics.Custom made red vinyl lined fabric bag with 110 cm zipper with silver stud. Blue leather reinforcing patches top and bottom. Blue leather "D" initial patch and bottomless side pocket with blue leather binding.Blue leather "D".doug mc conville. downhill skis. 1976 winter olympics. snow.

This item was manufactured in a period where the cheapest containers for portable equipment was canvas. The market place for cheap cameras was still restricted to European, England and its colonies. It was well before the post World War II explosion of the Asian manufacturing juggernaut.This item shows one of the most popular avenues of not only bringing new "modern" age equipment into the Kiewa Valley but also providing the local market with actual overseas inexpensive merchandise. It was a time when the new European fashion and "new age" equipment took years to permeate into regional Australia. The world, through Australia eyes, was still a very large planet and supply of "modern" lifestyle equipment emphasised the geographic isolation of Australia. Post World War II emigrants and an increasing flow of tourists to Australia provided the contact needed by rural settlements to open up not only their social contacts but lifestyle activities.Canvas, yellow, cream in color and with a weave pattern on the external side. It has stitched brown laminated fabric boarders containing all ends and corners. A flap opening top fastened on one side by a large press stud (15mm). A brown coloured leather carry strap (adjustable and 10mm wide) fasted at either of the longitudinal ends of the bag.camera, case photography, hobby, personal equipment

Excellent example of first aid 'in the field' in WW2Canvas bag with strap and leather trim; press stud fasteners. Interior has 5 small pockets and large front pocket (contents described separately-359-2 etc)labelled 'Sanax' First Aid

Carry bag, Gladstone, bark brown leather. Embossed with crocodile skin pattern. Red cloth lining, metal supports, clasps and locksbag, gladstone, leather

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic