Showing 1389 items
matching rimmer
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Bendigo Historical Society Inc.
Photograph - HILDA HILL COLLECTION: BLACK AND WHITE PHOTOS, 1919-1924
Series of Black and White Photos Post War Life for Hill Family & Friends. Total 8 Photos. Kath 'The Ranche' Eppalock September 1919. Kath dressed in 20's ? Dark dress, fur stole around neck, cloche hat, corrugated iron fence with wooden rail on top, garden setting. Arch, wearing white shirt waistcoat and dark trousers, gable roofed house in background, brick chimney left, tree at corner of house roof, Monte Video Queensland July 1924. Four ladies all wearing dark skirts and white blouses, all wearing broad rimmed hats, windmill tank on stand in background, tall post and wire netting, structure to the right, Kilmore October 1919. A Swan on the reservoir unknown place January 1920. lady wearing dark skirt and white blouse and hat, holding ball in left hand, right hand maybe swinging a tennis racquet ( not visible), post and rail fence in the far background. Lady sitting on stool wearing a dark skirt and white blouse, high post and wire netting fence, dark coloured horse to left, post and rail fence far right background, holding a camera bag and camera on stool beside her. Flirt the Dog, standing in doorway, door is broken and leaning to the right, shed has wide timber planks for cladding, 'The Ranche' Eppalock November 1919. Helen Mount Buffalo Tobogganing, wearing dark skirt, jacket with striped sleeves, and hat, August 1924.Hilda Hill Personal Collectionaustralia, history, post war life -
Parks Victoria - Wilsons Promontory Lightstation
Tank lid
Lid for ship's tanks used for early domestic water storage (1860's) at the lightstation The water tank and lid are probably from the same unit that was used for transporting drinking water or perishable dry goods on ships. The unit comprised a large, riveted metal tank which was fitted with a heavy cast iron round lid to form a hermetically sealed container. It had a rubber sealing ring ‘which was screwed tight with the aid of lugs cast into the lid and wedges cast into the rim of the loading hole’. A raised iron rod welded across the outer face of many lids allowed for screwing the lid tight. Ship tanks were invented in1808 by notable engineer, Richard Trevithick and his associate John Dickinson. Their patent obtained the same year described the tank’s superior cubic shape that allowed it to fit squarely as a container in ships and thus use space efficiently, while its metal fabric preserved and secured its contents, whether liquid or solid, from damage. The containers revolutionised the movement of goods by ship and made wooden casks redundant. Research by Michael Pearson has determined that they were carried on passages to Australia from at least the 1830s, conveying ships’ victuals and water storage as well as general goods heading for the colonies, and by the 1870s they were in common use. Once in the colonies, the tanks were often recycled and adapted for many resourceful uses such as water tanks, packing cases, dog kennels, oil containers and food stores and this invariably led to the separation of the lid and tank. Raised lettering on the lids indicates that nearly all of the ship tanks transported to Australia came from London manufacturers, and it was usual also for the brand name to feature as a stencil on the associated square tank but in most cases this eventually wore off. It is not known if the Wilsons Promontory tank retains its stencil, and the heavy lid will need to be turned over to reveal its manufacturer’s name. How it came to the lightstation is also not known, but it was either brought to the site as a recycled tank or salvaged from a shipwreck. Pearson writes that Ship tanks show up at a wide range of sites, many of them isolated like lighthouses. They were, I think, usually taken there for the purposes they filled, usually water storage, as they were readily available, relatively light to transport, and probably very cheap to buy as second‐hand goods containers. In rural areas they may have been scavenged for their new uses from local stores, to whom goods were delivered in them. Recycled to serve as a water tank, the Wilsons Promontory tank is the last surviving example of several that were used at the site to hold water for domestic consumption. The tank has had its lid removed and a tap fitted to the one of the sides. It stands on concrete blocks next to a building to receive water running off the roof via a metal pipe. Wilsons Promontory is the only lightstation managed by Parks Victoria with a tank container, although Cape Otway and Point Hicks have lids. Parks Victoria has identified four other lids which include two at Point Hicks, one manufactured by Lancaster and Co. the other by Bellamy. Cape Otway also has two, one unidentified and the other by the Bow Tank Works, East London, which produced tanks between 1910 and 1930. Pearson notes that ‘surviving lids are far less numerous than the tanks themselves, presumably because the uses to which the tanks were put did not require the lid to be retained’. The tank and lid, which are possibly part of the same unit, have first level contributory significance for their historic values and rarity. Round ship's tanks lid, iron. -
Royal District Nursing Service (now known as Bolton Clarke)
Photograph - Photograph, black and white, Barry Sutton, 24.04.1974
Sister Pat (Paddy) Rowley is the Principal Nurse Educator at Royal District Nursing Service (RDNS) and is standing with a group of RDNS staff in the Education Department at RDNS Headquarters, 452 St. Kilda Road, Melbourne. Sr. Rowley is wearing the RDNS winter uniform of a blue/grey skivvie under a blue/grey V neck tunic style dress made of herring bone winter material. She, and the lady in the white dress, are displaying the RDNS winter beret made of the same herringbone material as the RDNS winter dress.From its earliest years when the Trained nurses (Nurses) of Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS began to wear uniforms the chosen colour was grey, though the style changed throughout the years as fashions changed from the late 1800s through to the 1970s. Their Nurses firstly wore long grey frocks, and on their heads, a white cap with a long white tail hanging from the centre back. When bicycles were introduced the headgear changed to a white pith helmet adorned with a red Maltese cross in the centre front. This was held on with a veil going over the hat and tied under the chin. Over the years there were complaints that the veils became wet in the rain and they asked for a change of uniform, but this did not happen until 1921. Later the Trained nurses (Sisters) complained their skirts became wet when riding their bicycles in the rain and asked, when raining, to be able to wear breeches and gaiters. This was granted provided they wore aprons when attending patients. It was not long before the uniform changed to a shorter length grey frock, red cardigan, grey coat and grey brimmed hat; later changed to a peaked grey hat. In 1966 MDNS were granted Royal patronage. Now as Royal District Nursing Service (RDNS), the uniform was redesigned and colour changed in 1971. By 1972 the Sisters were wearing the new winter uniform of a blue/grey skivvie under a V neck tunic style frock made of blue/grey herringbone winter material with the RDNS insignia on the upper left, and a beret of the same material. In summer the uniform became a royal blue V neck tunic style frock, with the RDNS insignia on the upper left, worn over a short sleeve white blouse. A royal blue peaked hat with the RDNS insignia in the centre front was worn at first and then only worn on official occasions. This uniform was worn until changed to a corporate style in the mid 1980s,This black and white photograph depicts six Royal District Nursing Service (RDNS) staff standing in two rows in front of closed long grey curtains. They are looking at the camera and smiling, some are partly hidden. L- R back row - A lady who has short dark hair and is wearing a grey and black patterned frock. Next is a lady with her black hair drawn back; is wearing black pants and a black sleeveless V neck jacket over a white skivvie. The next lady has wavy short dark hair; is wearing white slacks, a light grey jacket with lapels and the pocket on its upper left has a vertical zip in the centre. She has a black and white striped scarf around her neck. Front row L-R - A lady with shoulder length black curled hair who is wearing a white uniform style dress and is turned toward the right of the photograph. Her right hand is on the top edge of an RDNS beret which is held on its edge with the inner white lining seen, and the upper section showing the deep front of the beret which has a central RDNS logo. To the right of this, is Sister Pat (Paddy) Rowley who has short dark straight hair; is wearing dark rimmed glasses and is wearing a light grey skivvie under a darker V neck tunic style dress. She is turned toward the left of the photograph and her right hand is holding the bottom edge of the RDNS beret and her left hand is on the top edge. The next lady, on the far right, has shoulder length black curly hair and is wearing dark grey slacks, and a black round neck jumper over a white blouse with the peaks and cuff seen.Barry Sutton MA 23 rdns, rdns education, royal district nursing service, rdns uniform, sister pat (paddy) rowley -
Royal District Nursing Service (now known as Bolton Clarke)
Photograph - Photograph, black and white, Barry Sutton, 25.07.1972
RDNS Liaison Officer, Sr. Barbara Watson is attending a meeting with members of Dr Kay's Coronary Care staff at the Alfred Hospital. Sr. Watson is wearing her RDNS winter uniform of a blue/grey skivvie under a V neck tunic style herringbone winter material dress.Liaison had occurred between doctors and the Trained nurses (Nurses) of the Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS), from its inception in 1885. This increased when Midwifery was introduced in August 1893 with close liaising with the Women’s Hospital. As District nursing grew it was recognized that closer liaising between many Public Hospitals would be beneficial, for not only the MDNS, later called Royal District Nursing Service (RDNS), Trained nurses (Sisters), but also for the patients and the hospitals. In August 1964 a Liaison Officer commenced at the Alfred Hospital. This soon increased to Liaison Officers working full time at several Public Hospitals.They facilitated the smooth transition from hospital to home for many patients who required ongoing nursing care. Liaison Sisters regularly attended discharge planning meetings, interviewed prospective patients, coordinated discharge and booked the first visit by the visiting RDNS Sister. At the time of a patient’s discharge, the Liaison Sister forwarded information on their diagnosis and instructions regarding the care required at home to the appropriate RDNS Centre, and in turn the attending District Sister wrote a report of progress and any queries to the hospital Doctor, via the Liaison Sister, at the time the patient attended outpatients. Any new instructions were then sent back to the District Sister. Liaising also occurred between District Sisters and Doctors when patients were referred by General Practitioners and did not attend a Hospital.On the left of the black and white photograph is Royal District Nursing Service (RDNS) Liaison Sister Barbara Watson who has shoulder length blonde hair which is curled at the ends; she has her hands clasped in her lap. She is wearing her uniform light grey skivvie under a V neck tunic style dress and is seated on a chair, the first in a semi circle alongside five lady hospital staff members and Doctor Kay. To the right of Sr. Watson sits a lady who has shoulder length curled hair and is wearing a white hospital coat over her clothes, with part of her dark skirt seen.. Next is a lady with long dark curled hair who is wearing a white uniform dress under a dark cardigan. To her right is a lady with long dark straight hair who is wearing a white uniform dress and a dark cardigan; she has a pen in her right hand which is poised on a piece of white paper resting of her right knee. To her right is a Sister, wearing light rimmed glasses, and wearing a white uniform dress and a white cap over her short dark straight hair. A hospital badge is attached at the top neck of her dress. She has her hands clasped on her lap and is looking to her right at the Doctor. Next is a lady with short straight dark hair who is wearing a white hospital coat over a grey dress. On the far right is Dr. Kay, who has short dark hair and is wearing a white hospital coat over a grey shirt, dark tie and dark trousers.He is looking to his right. In the left background is a long table and to the right some papers can be seen attached to boards on a wall.Barry Sutton's photographer's stamprdns, royal district nursing service, rdns uniform, rdns liaison, dr. kay,, sister barbara watson -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Teapot, Unknown
In the 1650s, the newest exciting development had arrived on Britain’s shores, this time it was tea from China. As it was brought back from overseas, tea was incredibly scarce and as such its price was very high; in 1664, the cost of tea was already 40s per pound, although this is not as high as what it would become when taxed in the 18th century. This resulted in only the social elite enjoying a cup of tea, and most commonly tea was enjoyed in coffee houses, and teapots were therefore not yet a household item. As the East India Company imported larger quantities of tea, it became more widely available and a larger section of the British population were able to enjoy it meaning that, by 1669, tea was available nearly everywhere. Likely due to the fact that tea was first enjoyed in coffee houses, the first known teapot resembles a coffee pot, with a tapering cylindrical shape and standing much taller than what we now know as a teapot at 13.5 inches tall. Into the 1680s, these teapots were given a conical cover for the spout that was fixed to the pot via a chain. As Queen Anne took the throne in 1702, teapots had become much more widely used and had formed two common groups. The first style of teapot was the pear shaped style which began to appear in 1705. The pear shaped pot usually had a domed lid and sometimes featured a finial. This form was generally supplied with a heater and stand as well as having a baluster shaped handle on one side. This iteration would disappear by 1725 but does make a reappearance in the 1740s, only this time as an inverted pear shape. The second group was the more spherical, or globular, shape which appeared in 1710. The globular teapot had a flush, hinged lid as well as a narrow moulded rim foot and a straight sided, tapering spout. Both generalised groups of teapots have polygonal examples – that is, teapots that are made up of straight sided segments – but six or seven sided teapots are incredibly rare. There is one known example of a seven sided globular teapot, made by Isaac Ribouleau in 1724. This is so unique because polygonal teapots are much more technically difficult and time consuming to make. Other than the occasional band of engraving round the shoulder of the teapot, they remain quite plain until c.1740 when scrollwork and chased shells begin to be applied for decoration. ‘Chasing’ is the process of decorating the front of a piece of metal by indenting the back, without cutting or engraving. From 1755 until 1770, silver teapots became incredibly uncommon and it is likely that this either reflects a change in drinking habits or changing trends producing a favour for porcelain. This dip in popularity could also be in response to the outrageous taxes placed on tea, up to 119%! In 1765, the Leeds creamware globular teapot seemed to kickstart a resurgence and this, combined with the Commutation Act of 1784 – which reduced tax on tea from 119% to 12.5% – saw teapots return in all their forms. It’s around this time, in 1780, that a form of teapot with a detachable, openwork stand appeared; however, the plain, oval teapot remained the most popular in the 1780s and 90s. In the later years of George III’s tenure on the throne, during the last decade of the 18th century, there was a revival of chasing and embossing teapots with flower and foliage designs. At the turn of the century, the spherical, partly fluted teapot with classical decoration was superseded by a more oblong shaped pot that sat on four spherical feet. This was then changed again when teapots became more melon shaped. It was at this time that the capacity of a teapot greatly increased and the previously wooden or ivory handles were replaced by silver handles with ivory washers for insulation. As Britain entered into the Victorian era, the design quality often suffered as there was a tendency to over-decorate the silver. In the early 19th century, the last major addition to the shape of the teapot, a raised collar was added between the cover and body. Whilst this seems to just be for decoration, there is some speculation that it could also be to prevent overspills. https://www.marklittler.com/silver-teapots-history/ This item shows that silver and silver plated teapots were used for tea making.Plain sliver teapot. Heavy oxidation. Dented.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, teapot, silver, siver plate, tea -
Coal Creek Community Park & Museum
Labels, resin
Reference 'Elix TaraxacCo Squam' (Elixar Taraxaccum squamosum or T. squamulosum: Flora of Victoria : 'Taraxacum squamulosum, Soest Dandelion, Acta Bot. Neerl. 6: 413 (1957) APNI, Taxonomic status : Accepted, Occurrence status : Present, Establishment means : Naturalised'. 'AC. TARTAR', 'TR. DIGITAL.' (Digitalis sp.), 'POTASS : CARB' (Potassium Carbonate) , ' ...Quillaia',(Quillaja saponaria), 'Tinct.Calumbae' (Tincture Calumbae : root of Jateorhiza Columba), 'TR.CIMICIF.' (Tincture of Cimicifuga sp. possibly C.racemosa), 'ESS.ROSAS' (Essence of roses), ' ..ubi Acet.' (??? acetate /acetone), 'POISON Liq. Hyd. Perchlor.' (Liquid hydrogen perchloride), 'LIN. CAMPH. CO.', 'INF. AU...', '..RANTI', 'OL. ORIGA..', '..FERR.DIAL'.Numerous entire, most damaged celluloid apothecary jar labels with black text on white background, bounded by red and gold border. Some paper apothecary jar labels, mostly damaged, all in a purple paper covered cardboard box originally containing self adhesive plasters.On side of purple box a white paper label with text inside black rimmed circle 'PODOPHYLL.........Pill....Dose.....One....HOOD & CO CHEMISTS 215 Elizabeth Street, MELBOURNE'. Inside lid of box : 'ZINCOPLACT Regd. SELF ADHESIVE PLASTER. INVALUABLE FOR CUTS,SMALLWOUNDS ETC. ANTISEPTIC Can also be used for binding and sealing jars and bottles, cricket bats and the like. ONE YARD TINS 1/2 inch 1 inch and 1 1/2 inch wide. The same quality as used by Surgeons and ....Hospitals throughout .....World. ZINCOPLAST LESLIES LTD This plaster causes no irritation and withstands washing ........I.....ingredients are exceptionally pure. MANUFACTURED BY LESLIES, LIMD. LONDON ENG'. One damaged paper label '......GLYCERINE......... PASTILLES These pastilles possess very soothing properties and are highly recommended to Singers and Public Speakers. TRADE JD MARK JULES DENOUL & CO. CARLTON WORKS, LONDON, S.E. TRADE JD MARK'. Paper label :'Elix TaraxacCo Squam HOOD & CO., (F. W. BAIRD.) Pharmaceutical Chemists 215 ELIZABETH ST., MELBOURNE.' Series of celluloid bottle labels : 'AC. TARTAR', 'TR. DIGITAL.', 'POTASS : CARB', ' ...Quillaia', 'Tinct. Calumbae', 'TR.CIMICIF.', 'ESS.ROSAS', ' ..ubi Acet.', 'POISON Liq. Hyd. Perchlor.', 'LIN. CAMPH. CO.', 'INF. AU...', '..RANTI', 'OL. ORIGA..', '..FERR.DIAL'.pharmacopeia, nomenclature, labels, packaging -
Parks Victoria - Point Hicks Lightstation
Lid, ship tank
The heavy cast iron, round lid was originally fastened into a large, riveted metal box, known as a ship tank. It has the name ‘John Bellamy London’ cast in capitals in a continuous circle on the outer edge of the lid face, and the words ‘Byng St Millwall’ on the inner circle. , of Millwall, London, manufactured boilers and ship tanks from the 1860s to the 1930s and came from a family of tank makers who began manufacturing tanks some time before 1856. Ship tanks were invented in 1808 by notable engineer, Richard Trevithick and his associate John Dickinson. Their patent obtained the same year described the tank’s superior cubic shape that allowed it to fit squarely as a container in vessels and thus use space efficiently, while its metal fabric preserved and secured its liquid or solid contents from damage. The containers revolutionised the movement of goods by ship and made wooden casks redundant. Research by Michael Pearson has determined that they were carried on passages to Australia from at least the 1830s conveying ships’ victuals and water storage, as well as general goods heading for the colonies. Pearson found photographic evidence of their use in the 1860s, and by the 1870s they appeared to be in common use. lids surviving from containers indicate that nearly all the tanks transported to Australia came from London manufacturers. It was usual for the brand name to also feature as a stencil on the tank but in most cases this eventually wore off. A tank without its original stencil survives at Wilsons Promontory. Tanks transporting ‘drinking water or perishable dry goods were hermetically sealed by the use of the tightly fitting lid with a rubber sealing ring ‘which was screwed tight with the aid of lugs cast into the lid and wedges cast into the rim of the loading hole’. The raised iron rod welded across the outer face of many lids such as the Bellamy example, allowed for screwing the lid tight. Once in the colonies, the ship tanks were often recycled and adapted for many resourceful uses such as packing cases, dog kennels, water tanks, oil containers and food stores and this invariably led to the separation of the lid and tank. The Bellamy lid could have been salvaged from a shipwreck but is more likely to have to have originated from a recycled tank that was brought to the lightstation for water storage purposes. Pearson writes that: Ship tanks show up at a wide range of sites, many of them isolated like lighthouses. They were, I think, usually taken there for the purposes they filled, usually water storage, as they were readily available, relatively light to transport, and probably very cheap to buy as second-hand goods containers. In rural areas they may have been scavenged for their new uses from local stores, to whom goods were delivered in them. Parks Victoria has identified five tank lids in the lightstation collections covered by this project. In addition to the Bellamy lid at Point Hicks, they include a Bow brand lid at Point Hicks and another at Cape Otway, unidentified lids at Cape Otway and Wilsons Promontory. Pearson and Miles Lewis have each recorded two versions of the Bellamy trade name on the lids; one being ‘John Bellamy Byng St. London’; the other, ‘John Bellamy Byng St. Millwall London’. The Point Hicks lid has the second version of the name, as do other examples in Victoria that Lewis has identified at Illawarra, Toorak; Warrock homestead, Casterton; Eeyeuk homestead, Terang; Ward’s Mill, Kyneton; and Boisdale homestead near Maffra, and in NSW at Ayrdale Park, Wolumla; and Bishop’s Lodge, Hay. Pearson’s list includes the same lids in NSW at Tumbarumba; the Quarantine Station, Sydney; Willandra Station; Bedervale, Braidwood; Gunnedah Museum; Walla Walla and Macquarie Island. The Point Hicks lid is currently stored in the lighthouse although it is unlikely that its use had any association with this building. The lid is in good condition and retains the central bung. Pearson notes that ‘surviving lids are far less numerous than the tanks themselves, presumably because the uses to which the tanks were put did not require the lid to be retained’.347 The Bellamy ship tank lid has first level contributory significance for its historic values. Circular cast-iron disc with raised outer ridge with inscription. It also has an inner depression with inscription. Two metal sections form handles over inner depression. Hole in middle of disc.Around perimeter of outer edge "JOHN BELLAMY LONDON" Around inner area "BYNG ST MILLWALL" -
Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Photograph, Time Capsule Ceremony, 10 November 1985, 10/11/1985
On Sunday, 10 November 1985 a time capsule was lowered into a monument installed near the corner of Main Road and Pitt Street in Eltham, within the gardens at the front of what is now the Eltham Community and Reception Centre. This monument commemorates Victoria’s 150th anniversary and the former location of the Eltham Town Centre, which existed along this section of Main Road, then known as Maria Street. Beneath the site is a time capsule to be opened in the year 2035. A plaque was also erected at this site in October 1987 to commemorate the Shire of Eltham Historical Society’s 20th anniversary. The main feature of this monument is a ‘tyring disc’, a blacksmith’s implement that was found on this site. This consists of a large iron disc that was used as a platform for fitting iron tyres (like the one shown on top of the platform) to wooden-spoked cart wheels. The local blacksmith and wheelwright worked together to assemble the wheel, which was clamped to the platform placed close to the fire. The red-hot iron hoop, previously forged to the correct size, was lifted with tongs by the blacksmith over the outside of the rim, then hammered down amid flames from the scorching timber. The wheelwright drenched the tyre with cold water as soon as it was in position. A clamp placed on the naff (hub) and screwed down tightly kept the spokes at a constant angle as the tyre cooled. An even pressure from the contracting tyre tightened the joints at each end of the spokes and formed a vice-like grip, which would last for the life of the wheel. [from EDHS Newsletter No. 45, November 1985:] TIME CAPSULE CEREMONY: Our 150th Anniversary Monument is now under construction in the gardens in front of the Eltham Community Centre. Further details of the project are given under a separate heading below and this item deals with the proposed ceremony. We propose to formally lower the time capsule into its container underneath the monument as part of the Eltham Community Festival. All members are invited to attend the ceremony at 2.00 p.m. on Sunday, 10th November. Come earlier with a picnic lunch if you like. Local people and firms who have contributed money or services for the monument will also be invited. As part of the Festival programme the public are welcome to attend. This is one of the most significant projects the Society has undertaken and members' participation in its finalization would be most gratifying to the organizing committee. 150TH ANNIVERSARY PROJECTS: We have concentrated our efforts on finishing the monument and time capsule project within the 150th year and have found it necessary to abandon the historical tour project. We have applied to the State 150th Committee to transfer the funds allocated for the tour to construction of the monument. The historical tour project will be continued at a later date and photos of historic houses in the area, taken by Doug Orford, will be available for use in an associated display. At the time of writing, the monument construction is on schedule for the ceremony on 10th November. The concrete base has been completed and the main feature of the monument, which is an old tyring plate or disc, will be lifted into place in the next week. The final ceremony will involve lowering the sealed time capsule into place, bolting down its container lid and then concreting over the lid. The capsule will contain mainly items relating to present day Eltham and its people and is to be opened in the year 2035, a video film made by Joh Ebeli and also details of families and organizations who have contributed to construction of the monument. It is proposed to place the items in the capsule on 5th November and any items members think could be included may be submitted up to that date. The Society has received an excellent response from local people, firms and organizations by way of assistance with this project. Graham Beyer, who originated the project, has arranged many of the donations. He and his firm, Package Handling Equipment, have donated the time capsule itself and have carried out fabrication of sections of the monument. The design of the monument was adapted by Graham Beyer from drawings by Joh Ebeli. Charmac Industries has donated the container for the time capsule and a cast gun metal name plate for the monument. BMG Concrete has donated concrete for the base which was constructed by Caridi Construction Company. Northbourne Garden Supplies has donated materials for the paving around the monument. Robert Becker from Eltham Apex directed construction of the paving by Society members. Terry Hutchinson has agreed to donate the use of his crane to lift the tyring disc into place. Financial contributions have been made by the Eltham Chamber of Commerce and the Rotary Club of Eltham. We are grateful to all who have helped, and members' support for firms who have donated their services would be an appropriate recognition. It is planned to print "Time Capsule Certificates" which can be held by organizations or passed on to descendants by individuals. The certificates will indicate an interest in the contents of the capsule when it is opened in fifty years. Certificates will be distributed to Society members and those who have contributed to the project.Nine colour photographsactivities, 1985, time capsule, eltham, eltham festival -
Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Photograph, Time Capsule Ceremony, 10 November 1985, 10/11/1985
On Sunday, 10 November 1985 a time capsule was lowered into a monument installed near the corner of Main Road and Pitt Street in Eltham, within the gardens at the front of what is now the Eltham Community and Reception Centre. This monument commemorates Victoria’s 150th anniversary and the former location of the Eltham Town Centre, which existed along this section of Main Road, then known as Maria Street. Beneath the site is a time capsule to be opened in the year 2035. A plaque was also erected at this site in October 1987 to commemorate the Shire of Eltham Historical Society’s 20th anniversary. The main feature of this monument is a ‘tyring disc’, a blacksmith’s implement that was found on this site. This consists of a large iron disc that was used as a platform for fitting iron tyres (like the one shown on top of the platform) to wooden-spoked cart wheels. The local blacksmith and wheelwright worked together to assemble the wheel, which was clamped to the platform placed close to the fire. The red-hot iron hoop, previously forged to the correct size, was lifted with tongs by the blacksmith over the outside of the rim, then hammered down amid flames from the scorching timber. The wheelwright drenched the tyre with cold water as soon as it was in position. A clamp placed on the naff (hub) and screwed down tightly kept the spokes at a constant angle as the tyre cooled. An even pressure from the contracting tyre tightened the joints at each end of the spokes and formed a vice-like grip, which would last for the life of the wheel. [from EDHS Newsletter No. 45, November 1985:] TIME CAPSULE CEREMONY: Our 150th Anniversary Monument is now under construction in the gardens in front of the Eltham Community Centre. Further details of the project are given under a separate heading below and this item deals with the proposed ceremony. We propose to formally lower the time capsule into its container underneath the monument as part of the Eltham Community Festival. All members are invited to attend the ceremony at 2.00 p.m. on Sunday, 10th November. Come earlier with a picnic lunch if you like. Local people and firms who have contributed money or services for the monument will also be invited. As part of the Festival programme the public are welcome to attend. This is one of the most significant projects the Society has undertaken and members' participation in its finalization would be most gratifying to the organizing committee. 150TH ANNIVERSARY PROJECTS: We have concentrated our efforts on finishing the monument and time capsule project within the 150th year and have found it necessary to abandon the historical tour project. We have applied to the State 150th Committee to transfer the funds allocated for the tour to construction of the monument. The historical tour project will be continued at a later date and photos of historic houses in the area, taken by Doug Orford, will be available for use in an associated display. At the time of writing, the monument construction is on schedule for the ceremony on 10th November. The concrete base has been completed and the main feature of the monument, which is an old tyring plate or disc, will be lifted into place in the next week. The final ceremony will involve lowering the sealed time capsule into place, bolting down its container lid and then concreting over the lid. The capsule will contain mainly items relating to present day Eltham and its people and is to be opened in the year 2035, a video film made by Joh Ebeli and also details of families and organizations who have contributed to construction of the monument. It is proposed to place the items in the capsule on 5th November and any items members think could be included may be submitted up to that date. The Society has received an excellent response from local people, firms and organizations by way of assistance with this project. Graham Beyer, who originated the project, has arranged many of the donations. He and his firm, Package Handling Equipment, have donated the time capsule itself and have carried out fabrication of sections of the monument. The design of the monument was adapted by Graham Beyer from drawings by Joh Ebeli. Charmac Industries has donated the container for the time capsule and a cast gun metal name plate for the monument. BMG Concrete has donated concrete for the base which was constructed by Caridi Construction Company. Northbourne Garden Supplies has donated materials for the paving around the monument. Robert Becker from Eltham Apex directed construction of the paving by Society members. Terry Hutchinson has agreed to donate the use of his crane to lift the tyring disc into place. Financial contributions have been made by the Eltham Chamber of Commerce and the Rotary Club of Eltham. We are grateful to all who have helped, and members' support for firms who have donated their services would be an appropriate recognition. It is planned to print "Time Capsule Certificates" which can be held by organizations or passed on to descendants by individuals. The certificates will indicate an interest in the contents of the capsule when it is opened in fifty years. Certificates will be distributed to Society members and those who have contributed to the project.Two colour photographsactivities, 1985, time capsule, eltham, eltham festival -
Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Photograph, Sinking the capsule, Graham Beyer on left and Joh Ebeli, Time Capsule Ceremony, 10 November, 1985, 10/11/1985
On Sunday, 10 November 1985 a time capsule was lowered into a monument installed near the corner of Main Road and Pitt Street in Eltham, within the gardens at the front of what is now the Eltham Community and Reception Centre. This monument commemorates Victoria’s 150th anniversary and the former location of the Eltham Town Centre, which existed along this section of Main Road, then known as Maria Street. Beneath the site is a time capsule to be opened in the year 2035. A plaque was also erected at this site in October 1987 to commemorate the Shire of Eltham Historical Society’s 20th anniversary. The main feature of this monument is a ‘tyring disc’, a blacksmith’s implement that was found on this site. This consists of a large iron disc that was used as a platform for fitting iron tyres (like the one shown on top of the platform) to wooden-spoked cart wheels. The local blacksmith and wheelwright worked together to assemble the wheel, which was clamped to the platform placed close to the fire. The red-hot iron hoop, previously forged to the correct size, was lifted with tongs by the blacksmith over the outside of the rim, then hammered down amid flames from the scorching timber. The wheelwright drenched the tyre with cold water as soon as it was in position. A clamp placed on the naff (hub) and screwed down tightly kept the spokes at a constant angle as the tyre cooled. An even pressure from the contracting tyre tightened the joints at each end of the spokes and formed a vice-like grip, which would last for the life of the wheel. [from EDHS Newsletter No. 45, November 1985:] TIME CAPSULE CEREMONY: Our 150th Anniversary Monument is now under construction in the gardens in front of the Eltham Community Centre. Further details of the project are given under a separate heading below and this item deals with the proposed ceremony. We propose to formally lower the time capsule into its container underneath the monument as part of the Eltham Community Festival. All members are invited to attend the ceremony at 2.00 p.m. on Sunday, 10th November. Come earlier with a picnic lunch if you like. Local people and firms who have contributed money or services for the monument will also be invited. As part of the Festival programme the public are welcome to attend. This is one of the most significant projects the Society has undertaken and members' participation in its finalization would be most gratifying to the organizing committee. 150TH ANNIVERSARY PROJECTS: We have concentrated our efforts on finishing the monument and time capsule project within the 150th year and have found it necessary to abandon the historical tour project. We have applied to the State 150th Committee to transfer the funds allocated for the tour to construction of the monument. The historical tour project will be continued at a later date and photos of historic houses in the area, taken by Doug Orford, will be available for use in an associated display. At the time of writing, the monument construction is on schedule for the ceremony on 10th November. The concrete base has been completed and the main feature of the monument, which is an old tyring plate or disc, will be lifted into place in the next week. The final ceremony will involve lowering the sealed time capsule into place, bolting down its container lid and then concreting over the lid. The capsule will contain mainly items relating to present day Eltham and its people and is to be opened in the year 2035, a video film made by Joh Ebeli and also details of families and organizations who have contributed to construction of the monument. It is proposed to place the items in the capsule on 5th November and any items members think could be included may be submitted up to that date. The Society has received an excellent response from local people, firms and organizations by way of assistance with this project. Graham Beyer, who originated the project, has arranged many of the donations. He and his firm, Package Handling Equipment, have donated the time capsule itself and have carried out fabrication of sections of the monument. The design of the monument was adapted by Graham Beyer from drawings by Joh Ebeli. Charmac Industries has donated the container for the time capsule and a cast gun metal name plate for the monument. BMG Concrete has donated concrete for the base which was constructed by Caridi Construction Company. Northbourne Garden Supplies has donated materials for the paving around the monument. Robert Becker from Eltham Apex directed construction of the paving by Society members. Terry Hutchinson has agreed to donate the use of his crane to lift the tyring disc into place. Financial contributions have been made by the Eltham Chamber of Commerce and the Rotary Club of Eltham. We are grateful to all who have helped, and members' support for firms who have donated their services would be an appropriate recognition. It is planned to print "Time Capsule Certificates" which can be held by organizations or passed on to descendants by individuals. The certificates will indicate an interest in the contents of the capsule when it is opened in fifty years. Certificates will be distributed to Society members and those who have contributed to the project.Colour photographactivities, 1985, time capsule, eltham, eltham festival -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate, Johnson Bros
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate, Alfred Meakin
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, J & G Meakin, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Jug
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Equipment - Cachet Machine, Christy & Co, Early 20th Century
Cachets Unpalatable drugs were cached using gelatine or a similar compound. The standard cachet machine consisted of three metal plates drilled with holes of different diameter for the size of the cachet used. The first half of the cachet was then fitted in the base plate. The centre plate was then used to mask the rims of the cachets to prevent powder deposit. Funnels were then used to deposit an appropriate dose of the powdered drug into the lower part of the cachet. Tampers were used if the drug had to be compressed. When the cachets were filled, moisture was applied to the rims of the cachet halves in the top plate. The centre plate was then removed and the two cachet halves brought together. After a few minutes the cachets were dry and could be removed. Capsules Another option was to use capsules. Again mechanisation supplanted the earlier models. The early models however are still used in clinical studies using the “double blind” method, where neither the clinician or the patient are aware which capsule contains the active agent or the placebo, as identical capsules are used for both. Each machine consists of two plates with openings to fit the capsules. The two levers at the front allow the upper plate to be raised or lowered. In the first instance the upper plate is raised half way and the empty lower halves of the capsules are inserted. This allows the operator to ensure that all the openings contain empty capsule halves. The upper plate is then raised to the maximum and the well is filled with a previously determined dose of the drug. A similar technique is used for the placebo. The upper plate is then lowered to half way, and the empty top half of the capsule is inserted in order to close and seal the previously filled half of the capsule. The upper plate is then lowered fully and the capsules can then be removed. https://www.samhs.org.au/Virtual%20Museum/Medicine/drugs_nonsurg/capsule/capsule.htm This cachet machine was donated to Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village by the family of Doctor William Roy Angus, Surgeon and Oculist. It is part of the “W.R. Angus Collection” that includes historical medical equipment, surgical instruments and material once belonging to Dr Edward Ryan and Dr Thomas Francis Ryan, (both of Nhill, Victoria) as well as Dr Angus’ own belongings. The Collection’s history spans the medical practices of the two Doctors Ryan, from 1885-1926 plus that of Dr Angus, up until 1969. ABOUT THE “W.R.ANGUS COLLECTION” Doctor William Roy Angus M.B., B.S., Adel., 1923, F.R.C.S. Edin.,1928 (also known as Dr Roy Angus) was born in Murrumbeena, Victoria in 1901 and lived until 1970. He qualified as a doctor in 1923 at University of Adelaide, was Resident Medical Officer at the Royal Adelaide Hospital in 1924 and for a period was house surgeon to Sir (then Mr.) Henry Simpson Newland. Dr Angus was briefly an Assistant to Dr Riddell of Kapunda, then commenced private practice at Curramulka, Yorke Peninsula, SA, where he was physician, surgeon and chemist. In 1926, he was appointed as new Medical Assistant to Dr Thomas Francis Ryan (T.F. Ryan, or Tom), in Nhill, Victoria, where his experiences included radiology and pharmacy. In 1927 he was Acting House Surgeon in Dr Tom Ryan’s absence. Dr Angus had become engaged to Gladys Forsyth and they decided he further his studies overseas in the UK in 1927. He studied at London University College Hospital and at Edinburgh Royal Infirmary and in 1928, was awarded FRCS (Fellow from the Royal College of Surgeons), Edinburgh. He worked his passage back to Australia as a Ship’s Surgeon on the Australian Commonwealth Line’s T.S.S. Largs Bay. Dr Angus married Gladys in 1929, in Ballarat. (They went on to have one son (Graham 1932, born in SA) and two daughters (Helen (died 12/07/1996) and Berenice (Berry), both born at Mira, Nhill ) According to Berry, her mother Gladys made a lot of their clothes. She was very talented and did some lovely embroidery including lingerie for her trousseau and beautifully handmade baby clothes. Dr Angus was a ‘flying doctor’ for the A.I.M. (Australian Inland Ministry) Aerial Medical Service in 1928 . Its first station was in the remote town of Oodnadatta, where Dr Angus was stationed. He was locum tenens there on North-South Railway at 21 Mile Camp. He took up this ‘flying doctor’ position in response to a call from Dr John Flynn; the organisation was later known as the Flying Doctor Service, then the Royal Flying Doctor Service. A lot of his work during this time involved dental surgery also. Between 1928-1932 he was surgeon at the Curramulka Hospital, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia. In 1933 Dr Angus returned to Nhill and purchased a share of the Nelson Street practice and Mira hospital (a 2 bed ward at the Nelson Street Practice) from Dr Les Middleton one of the Middleton Brothers, the current owners of what previously once Dr Tom Ryan’s practice. Dr Tom and his brother had worked as surgeons included eye surgery. Dr Tom Ryan performed many of his operations in the Mira private hospital on his premises. He had been House Surgeon at the Nhill Hospital 1902-1926. Dr Tom Ryan had one of the only two pieces of radiology equipment in Victoria during his practicing years – The Royal Melbourne Hospital had the other one. Over the years Dr Tom Ryan had gradually set up what was effectively a training school for country general-practitioner-surgeons. Each patient was carefully examined, including using the X-ray machine, and any surgery was discussed and planned with Dr Ryan’s assistants several days in advance. Dr Angus gained experience in using the X-ray machine there during his time as assistant to Dr Ryan. When Dr Angus bought into the Nelson Street premises in Nhill he was also appointed as the Nhill Hospital’s Honorary House Surgeon 1933-1938. His practitioner’s plate from his Nhill surgery is now mounted on the doorway to the Port Medical Office at Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village, Warrnambool. When Dr Angus took up practice in the Dr Edward and Dr Tom Ryan’s old premises he obtained their extensive collection of historical medical equipment and materials spanning 1884-1926. A large part of this collection is now on display at the Port Medical Office at Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village in Warrnambool. In 1939 Dr Angus and his family moved to Warrnambool where he purchased “Birchwood,” the 1852 home and medical practice of Dr John Hunter Henderson, at 214 Koroit Street. (This property was sold in1965 to the State Government and is now the site of the Warrnambool Police Station. and an ALDI store is on the land that was once their tennis court). The Angus family was able to afford gardeners, cooks and maids; their home was a popular place for visiting dignitaries to stay whilst visiting Warrnambool. Dr Angus had his own silk worm farm at home in a Mulberry tree. His young daughter used his centrifuge for spinning the silk. Dr Angus was appointed on a part-time basis as Port Medical Officer (Health Officer) in Warrnambool and held this position until the 1940’s when the government no longer required the service of a Port Medical Officer in Warrnambool; he was thus Warrnambool’s last serving Port Medical Officer. (Masters of immigrant ships arriving in port reported incidents of diseases, illness and death and the Port Medical Officer made a decision on whether the ship required Quarantine and for how long, in this way preventing contagious illness from spreading from new immigrants to the residents already in the colony.) Dr Angus was a member of the Australian Medical Association, for 35 years and surgeon at the Warrnambool Base Hospital 1939-1942, He served with the Australian Department of Defence as a Surgeon Captain during WWII 1942-45, in Ballarat, Victoria, and in Bonegilla, N.S.W., completing his service just before the end of the war due to suffering from a heart attack. During his convalescence he carved an intricate and ‘most artistic’ chess set from the material that dentures were made from. He then studied ophthalmology at the Royal Melbourne Eye and Ear Hospital and created cosmetically superior artificial eyes by pioneering using the intrascleral cartilage. Angus received accolades from the Ophthalmological Society of Australasia for this work. He returned to Warrnambool to commence practice as an ophthalmologist, pioneering in artificial eye improvements. He was Honorary Consultant Ophthalmologist to Warrnambool Base Hospital for 31 years. He made monthly visits to Portland as a visiting surgeon, to perform eye surgery. He represented the Victorian South-West subdivision of the Australian Medical Association as its secretary between 1949 and 1956 and as chairman from 1956 to 1958. In 1968 Dr Angus was elected member of Spain’s Barraquer Institute of Barcelona after his research work in Intrasclearal cartilage grafting, becoming one of the few Australian ophthalmologists to receive this honour, and in the following year presented his final paper on Living Intrasclearal Cartilage Implants at the Inaugural Meeting of the Australian College of Ophthalmologists in Melbourne In his personal life Dr Angus was a Presbyterian and treated Sunday as a Sabbath, a day of rest. He would visit 3 or 4 country patients on a Sunday, taking his children along ‘for the ride’ and to visit with him. Sunday evenings he would play the pianola and sing Scottish songs to his family. One of Dr Angus’ patients was Margaret MacKenzie, author of a book on local shipwrecks that she’d seen as an eye witness from the late 1880’s in Peterborough, Victoria. In the early 1950’s Dr Angus, painted a picture of a shipwreck for the cover jacket of Margaret’s book, Shipwrecks and More Shipwrecks. She was blind in later life and her daughter wrote the actual book for her. Dr Angus and his wife Gladys were very involved in Warrnambool’s society with a strong interest in civic affairs. He had an interest in people and the community They were both involved in the creation of Flagstaff Hill, including the layout of the gardens. After his death (28th March 1970) his family requested his practitioner’s plate, medical instruments and some personal belongings be displayed in the Port Medical Office surgery at Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village, and be called the “W. R. Angus Collection”.Cachet machines were in widespread use in earlier days when doctors would make their own cachets and capsules. Cachet machine for making Cachets or Koseals of pharmaceuticals such as quinine or sulphanol. Materials contained in wooden box. Manufactured by Thos Christy & Co, Old Swan Lane, Upper Thames Street London.Metal plague on inside of lid reads: ‘Morstadt Cachets Improved & patented Christy & Co Old Swan Lane EC’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, medical equipment, tablet making set, cachet machine, pharmaceuticals, chemist equipment, medication -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Can Opener, Bottle Opener & Corkscrew
It took 15 years to invent the can. It took 100 more to invent a standard way to open it. In the 19th century, decades after the invention of canning, there were virtually no can openers. Canned food, such as sardines, came with its own "key" to peel back the tin lid. Birth of the can One of the oddest things about the can opener is that the can predates it by almost 150 years. Though common today, cans were once military-grade technology. In 1795, Napoleon, to whom the phrase "an army marches on its stomach" is attributed, offered 12,000 francs to anyone who could find a way to preserve food. Without any knowledge of bacteria or their role in food spoilage, scientists didn't even know where to begin. It took 15 years before a chef named Nicholas Appert claimed the prize after successfully jarring food. Soon after that, his countryman Philippe de Girard came up with a variant on Appert's method—metal tins—and sold the idea to the British. Spoiled food, and the sickness it caused, was a widespread problem. The public would have benefited from canned food, but for decades cans were almost exclusively for the army and the navy. The canning process, with its hours of boiling and steaming, its scrupulous cleanliness, its heated metal, and its need for a great deal of disposable material, made canned food far too expensive for anyone but the military. No can openers were needed or even possible. The metal of early cans was too thick to make openers practical. Soldiers and sailors had plenty of sharp objects on hand and made ample use of them when they wanted to eat. During the 19th century, the process of canning was refined and mechanised, and the metal wall of the average can slimmed down enough that a civilian could get it open—if that civilian had the right tool. No one had that tool yet, so early cans had to open themselves. In other words, they came with built-in openers. The result was a confusing but pleasing free-for-all, in terms of product engineering. Each type of food came with its own kind of can, and each kind of can came with its own kind of opener. Tinned fish and meat were often sold in rectangular cans. These cans were fitted with a "key" that would roll down the top of the can. Coffee, beans, and other types of meat were packaged in cylinders with metal strips that could be peeled back with their own kinds of built-in keys. Cans of milk, which didn't need to be completely opened, came with puncture devices. As tinned food became more common, its containers became more regular. A nice cylindrical can became the norm, and, as these cans filled kitchens, more engineers put their minds to finding a convenient way to open all of them. The first standalone can opener worked on a simple principle: point, stab, and pull. From the mid-19th century to the end of World War I, the typical can opener looked roughly like a wrench, if the lower 'jaw' of the wrench were replaced with a blade. People used the blade to puncture the top of the can near its edge, push the upper jaw against the side of the can, and drag the blade through the metal along the rim. Because meat was the first and most popular canned substance, these can openers were often shaped to look like cows and given the nickname 'bully beef can openers'. The bully beef can opener, popular in the mid-19th century, resulted in many lost fingers. Later, a corkscrew was added that was seated in the handle, and could be pulled out for use. Bully beef can openers were so common, effective, and sturdy that they are still frequently available on collectors' sites. Some are advertised as “still working,” and every last one of them is, without a doubt, soaked in the blood of our ancestors. Dragging a sharp blade along the edge of a can is certain to cause injury sooner or later. So once people got a reliable can shape and a reliable way to get the can open, the search was on for a reliable way to get a can open without the possibility of losing a finger. The answer came in 1925, from the Star Can Opener Company of San Francisco. This is probably the first can opener that resembles the one people have in their kitchens today. Instead of using a blade to pry open a metal can, buyers could clamp the edge of the can between two wheels and twist the handle of one of the wheels to move the blade around the lip. The Star can openers weren't perfect. Compared to the bully beef model, they were flimsy and breakable, but they probably prevented a few injuries. Six short years after the Star model came to market, the first electric can opener was invented. It was patented in 1931 by the Bunker Clancey Company of Kansas City, who had already been sued by the Star Can Opener Company for trying sell a double-wheeled can opener like the Star model (the case was dismissed). The electric can opener must have seemed like the wave of the future and a sure-fire seller, but it proved to be too far ahead of its time. In 1931 not that many households had electricity, and those that did weren't interested in buying can openers. The Bunker Clancey Company was subsequently bought by the Rival Company, which still makes small appliances like can openers today. It took another 25 years for electrically powered can openers to become practical. In the 1950s, Walter Hess Bodle and his daughter, Elizabeth Bodle, developed an electric can opener in the family garage. Walter came up with the opener's blades and motor, and Elizabeth sculpted the outside. Their can opener was a free-standing unit that could sit on the kitchen counter. The Udico brand of the Union Die Casting Company put it on the market in time for Christmas in 1956 and had great success with it. Over the next few years it came out in different styles and colours, and, like the bully beef can opener, has become a collector's item. Also like the bully beef model, Udico can openers often still work. They don't make 'em like they used to. Although there have been some design changes and refinements over the last sixty years, there have yet to be any more leaps forward in can opener technology. If you're resentfully opening a can, you are almost certainly doing it using the Star design, manually forcing the can between two wheels, or the Bodle design, clamping the can into a free-standing electrical opener. Whether or not you enjoy your holiday meals, at least you can be happy that you are not getting poisoned by your own food or cutting open your hand with the blade you use to get at it. That's something, right?The can opener, Bottle opener and the corkscrew are still very important and essential items in most kitchens.Metal can opener, chromed, with bottle opener, and a corkscrew seated in the handle.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, canning, can opener, corkscrew, bottle opener, kitchen equipment -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Can Opener
It took 15 years to invent the can. It took 100 more to invent a standard way to open it. In the 19th century, decades after the invention of canning, there were virtually no can openers. Canned food, such as sardines, came with its own "key" to peel back the tin lid. Birth of the can One of the oddest things about the can opener is that the can predates it by almost 150 years. Though common today, cans were once military-grade technology. In 1795, Napoleon, to whom the phrase "an army marches on its stomach" is attributed, offered 12,000 francs to anyone who could find a way to preserve food. Without any knowledge of bacteria or their role in food spoilage, scientists didn't even know where to begin. It took 15 years before a chef named Nicholas Appert claimed the prize after successfully jarring food. Soon after that, his countryman Philippe de Girard came up with a variant on Appert's method—metal tins—and sold the idea to the British. Spoiled food, and the sickness it caused, was a widespread problem. The public would have benefited from canned food, but for decades cans were almost exclusively for the army and the navy. The canning process, with its hours of boiling and steaming, its scrupulous cleanliness, its heated metal, and its need for a great deal of disposable material, made canned food far too expensive for anyone but the military. No can openers were needed or even possible. The metal of early cans was too thick to make openers practical. Soldiers and sailors had plenty of sharp objects on hand and made ample use of them when they wanted to eat. During the 19th century, the process of canning was refined and mechanised, and the metal wall of the average can slimmed down enough that a civilian could get it open—if that civilian had the right tool. No one had that tool yet, so early cans had to open themselves. In other words, they came with built-in openers. The result was a confusing but pleasing free-for-all, in terms of product engineering. Each type of food came with its own kind of can, and each kind of can came with its own kind of opener. Tinned fish and meat were often sold in rectangular cans. These cans were fitted with a "key" that would roll down the top of the can. Coffee, beans, and other types of meat were packaged in cylinders with metal strips that could be peeled back with their own kinds of built-in keys. Cans of milk, which didn't need to be completely opened, came with puncture devices. As tinned food became more common, its containers became more regular. A nice cylindrical can became the norm, and, as these cans filled kitchens, more engineers put their minds to finding a convenient way to open all of them. The first standalone can opener worked on a simple principle: point, stab, and pull. From the mid-19th century to the end of World War I, the typical can opener looked roughly like a wrench, if the lower 'jaw' of the wrench were replaced with a blade. People used the blade to puncture the top of the can near its edge, push the upper jaw against the side of the can, and drag the blade through the metal along the rim. Because meat was the first and most popular canned substance, these can openers were often shaped to look like cows and given the nickname 'bully beef can openers'. The bully beef can opener, popular in the mid-19th century, resulted in many lost fingers. Bully beef can openers were so common, effective, and sturdy that they are still frequently available on collectors' sites. Some are advertised as “still working,” and every last one of them is, without a doubt, soaked in the blood of our ancestors. Dragging a sharp blade along the edge of a can is certain to cause injury sooner or later. So once people got a reliable can shape and a reliable way to get the can open, the search was on for a reliable way to get a can open without the possibility of losing a finger. The answer came in 1925, from the Star Can Opener Company of San Francisco. This is probably the first can opener that resembles the one people have in their kitchens today. Instead of using a blade to pry open a metal can, buyers could clamp the edge of the can between two wheels and twist the handle of one of the wheels to move the blade around the lip. The Star can openers weren't perfect. Compared to the bully beef model, they were flimsy and breakable, but they probably prevented a few injuries. Six short years after the Star model came to market, the first electric can opener was invented. It was patented in 1931 by the Bunker Clancey Company of Kansas City, who had already been sued by the Star Can Opener Company for trying sell a double-wheeled can opener like the Star model (the case was dismissed). The electric can opener must have seemed like the wave of the future and a sure-fire seller, but it proved to be too far ahead of its time. In 1931 not that many households had electricity, and those that did weren't interested in buying can openers. The Bunker Clancey Company was subsequently bought by the Rival Company, which still makes small appliances like can openers today. It took another 25 years for electrically powered can openers to become practical. In the 1950s, Walter Hess Bodle and his daughter, Elizabeth Bodle, developed an electric can opener in the family garage. Walter came up with the opener's blades and motor, and Elizabeth sculpted the outside. Their can opener was a free-standing unit that could sit on the kitchen counter. The Udico brand of the Union Die Casting Company put it on the market in time for Christmas in 1956 and had great success with it. Over the next few years it came out in different styles and colours, and, like the bully beef can opener, has become a collector's item. Also like the bully beef model, Udico can openers often still work. They don't make 'em like they used to. Although there have been some design changes and refinements over the last sixty years, there have yet to be any more leaps forward in can opener technology. If you're resentfully opening a can, you are almost certainly doing it using the Star design, manually forcing the can between two wheels, or the Bodle design, clamping the can into a free-standing electrical opener. Whether or not you enjoy your holiday meals, at least you can be happy that you are not getting poisoned by your own food or cutting open your hand with the blade you use to get at it. That's something, right?The can opener is still a very important and essential item in most kitchens.Can opener, right handed, metal, upper blade section serrated, inscription 'Peerless Pat.Feb 11-90'.Peerless Pat.Feb 11-90flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, cannning, can opener, kitchen equipment -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Equipment - First Aid Case, Thomas Urquhart & Son Pty Ltd (Thos. Urquhart), 1930-1939
This small, portable 1930s Sanax First Aid Case has been strongly constructed, with corners reinforced with metal to take knocks and bumps, so it could be quickly transported to the site of an emergency. Having these supplies organised into a kit made them easily accessible and reduces time to take them to the site of the accident. It was possibly designed for use in factories because the booklet in the case states that the kit complies with “Part 1, Victorian Factories Regulations”. The text of the printed brand “Sanax First Aid Case” is right-way up when the case stands vertically on its hinged side. In modern times people are well aware of the importance of quick treatment when accident and injury occur. However, before the first commercial First Aid Kit was made by Johnson & Johnson in 1888, people had little knowledge about treating injuries and lacked information about suitable supplies to keep on hand for emergencies. They were often unaware of how to help in that critical time before the doctor or other assistance arrived, a particularly important time for the many people living in remote areas. A quote from Johnson’s & Johnson’s 1888 price list explains “It is a fact, which is everywhere being recognized, that many lives are lost and much suffering entailed in such accidents on account of the lack of the simple but necessary articles required to afford prompt assistance to the wounded.” One example of the value of First Aid assistance to community groups is shown in an article from the Weekly Times, 29th November 1930. It records a report from the Annuello Branch of the Younger Set (a Country Women’s Organisation), telling that on Armistice Day their president Mrs Jamieson, presented the Annuello School with the gift of a Sanax Red Cross First Aid outfit, which was accepted as being “of great practical use to the scholars.” (Annuello is a remote wheat growing area in the Mallee region of North Western Victoria, which became a soldier settlement area after World War I. There is a strain of wheat named ‘Annuello’ due to its suitability for that area. ) The Sanax Case in our Collection contains instructions, equipment and medical items suitable for use in emergency situations. The Case was one of 42 patterns available from Sanax that conformed to ‘Part 1, Victorian Factories Regulations’. It includes items made by Sanax Company and by Burroughs Wellcome & Co. (Australia) Ltd., Sydney, NSW. A quote at the back of the First Aid Emergency Instructions booklet says: “Sanax products are made in Australia by or under the supervision of qualified chemists, from the highest quality materials. They are dependable for the purposes written on labels.” BOOKLET included in First Aid Case: “SANAX” First-Aid Emergency Instructions has orange cover and white pages, joined in the centre by two staples. Booklet contains First Aid Instructions for general events listed in alphabetical order. It also contains an indexed sections headed “Poisoning, and what to do” written by S.A. Burrows, Ph.C., Vuc and N.Z. There are instructions and diagrams on how to perform Artificial Respiration. There are advertisement for Sanax products throughout the booklet that include; - Sanax Ambulance Stretcher for timber mills, mines, ships and quarries - Saw dust masks (porous rubber) for workers in dust, paint or duco sprayers Inside cover lists Sanax’s Australian made products including - tablets and powders for headaches, neuralgia, influenza, colds - snuff for Catarrh that is “quite harmless” - First Aid Cases that come in a range of 42 patterns - sunburn preventatives and treatments - healing salve for carbuncles, pock, pimples, boils, varicose ulcers etc. - snake bite outfits and kits LEAFLETS included in First Aid Case: (1) Tannafax Tannic Acid Jelly. Tannafax should be kept at hand in every home. It should be applied direct from the tube and used with neither oil nor grease. Where a large area has to be covered the clamped end may be torn or cut off to give a wider mouth to the tube. Collapsible tubes of different sizes. Made in Australia. Burroughs Wellcome & Co. (Australia) Ltd. (Incorporated in England). Sydney, NSW. Assorted Houses, London, New York, Montreal, Cape Town, Milan, Bombay, Shanghai, Buenos Aires. Copyright A. 1817, J. 9463 (2) Tabloid. The strong thing is the just - - . Tabloid marks the wor - - Burroughs Wellcome & Comp. The use of the word is to enab – the prescriber, dispenser and patient to get the right thing with one short word, instead of the firm’s long name. If another maker apply the word to his product, the act is unlawful. Tabloid is our trade mark and brand. If a vendor disregard it in dispensing or selling, the act is unlawful for the same reason. We prosecute both offenders rigorously, in the interest of prescribers, dispensers, patients and the owners of the trade mark. Please inform us of any instance of either offence. Burroughs Wellcome & Co. (Australia) Ltd. (Incorporated in England). Telephone Number - M 4184 (4 lines) All communications to G.P.O. Box No. 1185 DD. Copyright Sy. 20. & J 9894. Medicines and Equipment included in First Aid Case: - Absorbent Cotton, Sanax, for absorbing blood or drying a wound. As a swab for washing wounds; to place above a compress to keep the heat in: or as a pad to protect wounds or fractures. The Sanax Co. Manuf. Chemists, Melbourne. Regd. Office: 5 Brunswick St, Fitzroy. N.6. - ACHE tablets, Sanax, for all aches, pains, fevers etc. Dose: 2 to 3 tablets with a draught of water, every 3 hours. Children in proportion. For influenza or colds, take the bedtime dose with a hot lemon drink or toddy. Recommended for Headaches, Colds, Influenza, Fevers, Neuralgia, Rheumatism, Nerve Pains, Sleeplessness, and Seasickness. Three Sanax Ache tablets equals one Sanax Ache powder. Each tablet contains 1.75grs. each Phenacotinum and Acety acSzilcyl, and .75grs Ammon Brom. Etc.. Sanax brand specialties are prepared by highly qualified pharmaceutical chemists and may be accepted as safe and effective for the purpose indicated on the label. The Sanax Co. Melbourne - Eye lotion, Sanax, “in eye bath full strength or diluted with equal parts of water. Sanax Co. Brunswich St, Fitzroy, Melbourne. - Iodine, Sanax, POISON, with instructions for what to do if swallowed. - Kuraburn, Sanax, Applied to the burn and allowed to dry, the pain and heat instantly disappear, and blistering is prevented. If necessary, apply again in an hours. To safeguard against burning when sunbathing, apply before exposure to the sun. If already sunburnet, use Kuraburn as directions above. Safe and harmless. Sole makers, The Sanax Co. Brunswick St. - - Vic. - Sal Volatile, Sanax, - - stimulant for - - nervous aches - - or as smelling salts Dose - - - - Solution of A- - - 5%, . The Sanax Co. Brunswick St, Melbourne. - Tannafax, Burroughs Wellcome & Co. Australia Ltd. Sydney, N.S.W., 20gm. Approx., Tannic Acid Jelly, (Tannic Acid with 0.5% Phenol in a water-soluble base) for burns and scalds. A.N. 15050, p188, logo of a unicorn. Apply lightly, allow to dry, and bandage loosely. Do not apply oil or grease. - bottle wrapped in brown paper, unknown contents, paper adhered to bottle. - dish, kidney shaped, metal, white enamel with black rim - eye bath, green, plastic or Bakelite SANAX COMPANY The Sanax Company was at the address of 5 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy [Melbourne] at least as early as November 1924, as shown by its advertisement of Ache Powder in the Weekly Times, 8th November 1924. It was still at this address in September 1951, when it advertised First Aid outfits and components in the Post Master General’s section of the Commonwealth of Australia Gazette. REFERENCES: Annuello, Victoria; Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annuello,_Victoria Annuello Younger Set, Branch Activities and Local Reports, Country Women’s Organisations, Weekly Times, 29 November 1930, Trove http://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/224921009?searchTerm=%22sanax%22%20and%20%22melbourne%22&searchLimits=# Commonwealth of Australia Gazette, Issue 32, 24th April 1915, https://www.legislation.gov.au/file/1915GN32 [Johnson & Johnson Price List, September 1, 1888, p. 20. From our archives], Celebrating the 125th Birthday of the First Aid Kit , The Story of Johnson & Johnson, , http://www.kilmerhouse.com/2013/06/from-1888-to-2013-celebrating-the-125th-birthday-of-the-first-aid-kit/ Post Master General’s section of the Commonwealth of Australia Gazette, Issue No. 73, Thursday 27th September 1951 http://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/232185299?searchTerm=%22sanax%22%20and%20%22fitzroy%22&searchLimits= Sanax First Aid Emergency Instructions, by S.A. Burrows, publisher Sanax Ltd. Fitzroy, Victoria, 1930-1939 English, book, Illustrated edition, Trove http://trove.nla.gov.au/version/40948895 Access to emergency medical help in early settlement days of Victoria could take quite some time, especially in remote areas. From 1888 First Aid Kits and instructions became available for work sites, offices, community groups and individuals, helping to bridge the gap between the accident and the arrival of medical assistance. This portable Sanax First Aid Case is an example of portable medical equipment made in Melbourne, Australia, in the 1930’s and available to the public. It contains a range of items plus information to be used in a variety of injuries and emergencies in in factories, households, businesses and local communities, and instructions on their use. First Aid Case, portable, Sanax First Aid Case. First Aid kit in strong black cardboard carry case with metal reinforced corners, metal hinges on lid, metal catch and leather carry handle. Inside lid is a vertical strap with narrow gap behind it. Base is divided into two compartments. Manufactured by Sanax, Fitzroy, Melbourne, C. 1930-1939 Contents include "Sanax" First Aid instructions booklet, 2 leaflets, metal kidney dish enamelled in white with black trim on edge, green plastic or Bakelite eye bath, eye lotion, Tannafax tannic acid jelly, Sal Volitile, Kuraburn, Iodine, Argyrol, ACHE tablets, absorbent cotton in cardboard box, gauze bandage, and UNKNOWN wrapped bottle. Printed in gold on lid of case “SANAX” FIRST AID CASE. Most of the contents, as well as the case, show the “SANAX” brand. Some contents are inscribed Burroughs Wellcome & Co. (Australia) Ltd., flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, first aid items, first aid kit, emergency first aid, medical emergency kit, home emergency kit, industrial emergency kit, sanax company fitzroy melbourne, burroughs wellcome & co. (australia) ltd, thos. urquhart & son pty. ltd. melbourne, sanax first aid case, sanax first-aid emergency instructions, part 1 victorian factories regulations, tabloid medical supplies -
Seaworks Maritime Museum
Document
Large paper document including colour illustrations of Melbourne Harbor Trust shield and other shields. Includes three wax seals attached to document with blue ribbon."To All and Singular to whom these presents shall come, Sire Anthony Richard Wagner/ Knight Commander of the Royal Victorian Order Garter Principal King of Arms. Sir John Lunamace Heaton Arm/ Strong Knight, Member of the Royal Victorian Order. Clarenceux King of Arms an Aubrey John Toppin Esquire/ Commander of the Royal Victorian Order. Norroy and Ulster King of Arms Send Greeting! Whereas Victor/ George Swanson. Esquire upon whom has been conferred the Australian Efficiency Decoration Chairman of the Melbourne Harbor/ Trust Commissioners hath represented unto The Most Noble Bernard Marmaduke, Duke of Norfolk, Knight of the Most/ Noble Order of the Garter Knight Grand Cress of the Royal Victorian Order, Earl Marshal and Hereditary Marshal of/ England and one of Her Majesty's Most Honourable Privy Council that the Melbourne Harbor Trust Commissioners is a body/ corporate with perpetual succession and a Common Seal duly constituted by Act of Legislature of the Colony of Victoria number/ DLII bearing date Twenty second day of December 1876 the said Act having been amended from time to time and various Acts passed consolidating such amendments that under the said/ Act the exclusive management and control of the port and the preservation and improvement of the port generally as vested in the said Commissioners. That the Melbourne Harbour Trust/ Commissioners being desirous of having Armorial Bearings, Supporters and a Device or Badge duly assigned under lawful authority and he hath therefore requested the favour of His Grace's/ Warrant for Ouigranting and assigning such Armorial Ensigns and in the same Patent such Supporters and such Device or Badge as may be proper to be borne and used by the Melbourne/ Harbor Trust Commissioners on Seals otherwise accoding to the Laws of Arms. And forasmuch as the said Earl Marshal did by warrant under his hand and Seal bearing date the Sev-/ enth day of March 1962 authorize and direct Us to grant and assign such Armorial Ensigns and such Supporters and such Device or Badge Accordingly. Know ye therefore that we/ the said Garter Clarenceux and Norroy and Ulster in pursuance of His Grace's warrant and by virtue of the Letters of Patent of Our several offices to each of us respectively granted do/ by these Presents grant and assign unto the Melbourne Harbor Trust Commissioners the Arms following that is to say: Azure a representation of the constellation of the Southern Cross/ Argent on a Chief enarched on five Pallets of the first. And for the Crest Out of a Coronet composed of eight Masts each with sail set and upon Rim Or in front of a Bollard proper/ two Anchors in saltire Azure Mantled figure doubled Argent as the same are in the margin here of more plainly depicted. And by the Authority aforesaid We do/ further grant and assign the following Device or Badge that is to say: Two Anchors in saltire Argent as here depicted And by the Authority aforesaid the said Garter/ do by these Presents further grant and assign unto the Melbourne Harbor Trust Commissioners the Supporters following that is to say : On either side a Sea Horse/ (Hippocampus) or collared and lined Gules in front of a representation of the Melbourne Harbour front proper as the same are also in the margins here of more/ arms plainly depicted the whole to be borne and used forever hereafter by the Melbourne Harbour Trust Commissioners on seals otherwise according to the laws of/ Arms. In witness whereof we the said Garter Clarenceux and a Norroy and Ulster Kings of Arms have to these presents subscribed Our names and affixed the seals/ Of our Several offices this fith day of March in the Twelfth Year of the reign of our Soveriegn Lady Elizabeth the Second by the Grace of God of the United Kingdom of Great/ Britain and Northern Ireland and of Her other Realms and Territories Queen head of the Commonwealth Defender of the Faith and in the years of Our Lord One Thousand nine/ hundred and sixty three" "Prosperity Through Service" -
Federation University Historical Collection
Booklet - Annual Review, Ballarat School of Mines Annual Review, 1986 -1991
The Ballarat School of Mines was established in 1870 through the initiatives of the Ballarat Mining Board making it the oldest site of technical education in Australia. The Board was concerned with the shortage of mine managers for the goldfields. Classes began in surveying, mathematics, and chemistry and a decade later they included metallurgy , assaying and geology. With the decline in goldmining the direction of the college changed and broadened, the art School was established and the Ballarat Junior Technical School developed. In 1976, the tertiary sector seperated from the School of Mines and Industries Ballarat to form the Ballarat College of Advanced Education. In the 1980s SMB was a Community College of Technical Education and Further Education (TAFE) offering a wide range of vocational, enrichment and preparatory programs. It is continuing the tradition of providing for the educaiton needs of people within the Central Highlands. During the 1970s and 80s it acquired and refurbished old buildings and developed new facilities to keep up with the needs of an expanding curriculum and student population. The era of these annual reports is just before the merger with the University of Ballarat.A number of soft card covered annual report for the Ballarat School of Mines. .1) 12 page black covered report featuring an image of the E.J. Tippett Library. Includes information on death of E.J. Tippett, disability policy, Peter Quinn, Patti McNulty, Bob Feary, Shane Everand, Integration, Fiona Watson, retirement of Robert Morgan, Opening of the carpentry and Joinery Facility in Davey Street, formation of the School of Business and Information Technology, Melissa Bone, opening of the E.J. T. Tippett Learning Resource Centre (Library), Refurbishment of the Administration Building, Food Service Building (Prospects), Court House Theatre, Enrolment centre, Museum, Creche, Women's Trade technical Program, Rural Education Program, Ararat Prison Program, Community Studies Section, Ararat Adult Literacy Group. Literacy Assistance for Undergraduates, Fire training, fitness, open Learning, Training & Employment Group, Awards, Filipino Visitors, oil Seed Research, Brunei, Barometer (gift) for Horticulture, Special Equipment (guillotine and brake press; programmable logic Controller; theodolite: laser lever; Universal testing Machine; Atomic Absorption Spectrophotometer)., organisational Structure. Photos include Ken Flecknoe, Peter Quinn, Patti McNulty, Bob Feary, Shane Everard, Fiona Watson,Linda Bland, Robert Morgan, David McCaughey, E.J. Tippett, Frank Sheehan, Julie Baulch, Jo Reeves, Col McCurry, Jenny Garnham .3) Blue covered book with a photograph of the M.B. John Building taken from Albert Street on the cover. Topics include: Ken Flecknoe, Peter Shiells, Ararat Campus, David Haddow, Kevin Martin, Rendle Hannah, Gary Eason, Geoff Pope, Albert Peart, M.B. John building opened, Hairdressing Salon, Community Centre, Creche, closure of Lydiard Street, Museum, Jenny Levison, Inskill, Small Business Training, Ballarat Eat free Library, Barkly Street, Wormalds Valve Group, Aboriginal Programs, Horticulture Center, Awards, Country fire Authority, tractor Donation, Women's Policy. Special purchases included surveying equipment with data recorder, test rig , CDT MIG welder, compact gas chromatograph with FID and single pen recorder, Olivetti stand-alone word processing unit. Images include Ken Flecknoe. Peter Shiells, John Crowe, Trevor Slater, Brian McLennan, Kerrie Cross, Albert Peart, John Cain, M.B. John, Enrollment Centre, Museum, Jo Watson, Wormalds, Brian Webber, Dianna Nikelson, Ian Aitken, Brendan B, Chez Dichiera, Heather Dixon, Julie Broadbent .4) 1993 - Brown and white soft covered annual review featuring students of the Ballarat School of Mines at work. Bill Gribble, Brian McLennan, Peter Shiells Retirement, Robert C. Lovett, Steven Mendelson, Max Palmer, Jenny Gough, Mary Molloy, Barrie Firth, Colin McCurry, Dora Hormann, Organisation Structure, Brewery Acquisition, Humffray Street Primary School, Grant Street Retaining Wall, Neville Bunning Plaque, VCE Plus, Ballarat Small Business centre, Ararat Prison, Ballarat Showgrounds Rotunda, .6) Green covered annual review with an aerial photograph over Albert Street, Ballarat. Content include Kerrie Cross, Peter Shiells. Kenneth Flecknoe Obituary, Ian Pimblett, Keith Boast, David Nicholson, Max Palmer, Brian Webber, Bob Lovett, Linda Bland, Prospects, Training restaurant, 3BBB, Malcolm Vallance, Aboriginal Programs, Ian Cathie, Koorie Support Unit, Caroline Hogg, 'Trained Men Make Their Own Terms' exhibition at the Gold Museum, Ricky Hains, Stephen Hughes, Jeff White, Dennis Bolster .8) Blue covered review for 1989. The contents include: Kerrie Cross, Peter Shiells, Ann McCaffrey, Kevin Alsop, Mary Molloy, Ross Furness, Robert Lovett, Victoria Street Student Hostel, Hugh Beggs, Ballarat Small Business Centre, Inskill, Ararat Campus, Hospitality and Tourism, Koorie Support Unit, Fiona Warsn, Bruce Staley, Terry Moran, Anthony Wonish, Ivan Deveson, Leo Shannon Memorial Award, Bryan Crebbin, Geoff Howard, R.C.W. Burdett, Jeff White, Ian Harris, Tom Wiseman, Bill Gribble, Allison Kay, Steven Mendelson, Keith Boast. .9) Grey covered book with a coloured photo of the Victoria Street Student Residence. Contents include: Kerry Cross, Peter Shiells, Morgan Bevan John Illuminated address. Jean Phillips, Koorie Support Unit, Andrew Sullivan, Victoria Street Student Residence, Horticulture, Inskill, Tertiary Awareness Project, Adult Education, Ivan Deveson, Brian Howe, Barry Jones, Joan Kirner, Andrew Trigg, Warren Perry, Murrell Rock Collections, Gwyn Hanssen-Piggott, Disability Awareness Day, Sebastopol Borough Logo, Phoebe Rimmer, Russell Jackson, R.J. Young Scholarship, Peter Muir, Founders Day Cake, Morgan John. .11) Black card covered booklet with five images of exteriors of the Ballarat School of Mines. the contents include: Jack Barker, Peter Shiells, Peter Ellyard, Ian Stoney, Terry Moran, Wayne Strong, David Ince, Simone Titheridge, Ian Aitken,Kevin Alsop, Bill Bridges, Clive Carmichael, Bob Feary, Rendle hannah, Roly Parfenovics, Graham Snibson, Kevin Stockdale, Len Wilson, Child Care Centre opening, Student accommodation, Victoria Street, Brewery site. naming buildings, E.J. barker. A.W. Steane K.J. Flecknow, Carpentry and joinery, Inskill, Hospitality, Pottery, ceramics, Founders' Day, Warren Perry, Agreement between Ballarat School of Mines and Ballarat university College, merger, Peter Baldwin, Awards, obituary Lindsay Hillman. Images include: Wayne Strong, David Ince, Simone Titheridge, kerrie Cross, Joan Kirner, Frank Sheehan, Bill Gribble Ros Wilkie, Judi O'Loughlin, Tony Leonard, Gemma Hearnes, Brendan Hill, Joanne Bell, Karl Moon, Stella Savy, Shirley Falkinder, Peter Baldwin, Jack Barker, Michael Ronaldson, David Kemp, Peter Shiells, Margot Healey, Sharon McLennan, Kerrie Firns, Petrena Brookers, Deb Goudappel, Claire Bond, Administration Building Lindsay Hillman. .13 ) Brown covered report with photographic images. Content includes: Pam Merrett. , Peter Shiells, Robert Lovett, Steven Mendelson, Max Palmer, Jenny Gough, Barrie Firth .14) Brown covered report with photographic images. Content includes: .15) Green covered report with photographic images. The blond woman standing on the right looking at a computer screen is Pam Merrett. Content includes: Bill Gribble, Ron Wild, Doug Sarah, Martin Hill, John Kemp, David Manterfield, Leslie Comy, Linette Penhall, Glen Martland. Virginia Fenelon. Michael Bracher, Brewery Building. Child care centre, Prospects Cafe Opening, Horticulture Training Centre, Retaining Wall, The Gordon, University of Ballarat and Ballarat School of Mines affiliation, Geoffrey Blainey, Ararat Community College Memo of understanding, Brian McLennan. Founders Day (Hadden Storey), Gwyn Hanssen-Pigott, Ken Latta, Neville Bunning Outstanding Achievement Award, Valerie Wilson, Jack Barker, John Sharpham, Jack Barker Resignation.ballarat school of mines, university of ballarat, integration, shane everard, robery morgan, linda bland, ballarat junior technical school, former court house, ken flecknoe, bruce muir, lindsay hillman, neil crouch, jack barker, keith boast, rex hollioake, m.b. john, bob lovett, brian mclennan, peter shiells, bruce tanner, jeff white, bryan crebbin, kerrie cross, ric dunlop, tom wiseman, barbara hughes, chris matheson, morgan b. john, albert street, steven mendelson, john crowe, ann mccaffrey, kevin alsop, mary molloy, ross furness, robert lovett, victoria street student hostel, student residences, hugh beggs, ballarat small business centre, inskill, ararat campus, hospitality and tourism, koorie support unit, fiona watson, bruce staley, terry moran, anthony wonish, ivan deveson, leo shannon memorial award, geoff howard, r.c.w. burdett, ian harris, bill gribble, allison kay, liz eddy, pam merrett, doug sarah, martin hill, john kemp, david manterfield, leslie comy, linette penhall, glen martland, virginia fenelon, michael bracher, brewery building, child care centre, prospects cafe, horticulture training centre, retaining wall, the gordon, university of ballarat and ballarat school of mines affiliation, geoffrey blainey, ararat community college memo of understanding, founders day, hadden storey, gwyn hanssen-pigott, ken latta, neville bunning outstanding achievement award, valerie wilson, john sharpham, kerry cross, morgan bevan john illuminated address, jean phillips, andrew sullivan, victoria street student residence, horticulture, inskill, tertiary awareness project, adult education, brian howe, barry jones, joan kirner, andrew trigg, warren perry, murrell rock collections, gwyn hanssen-piggott, disability awareness day, sebastopol borough logo, phoebe rimmer, russell jackson, r.j. young scholarship, peter muir, kenneth flecknoe obituary, ian pimblett, david nicholson, brian webber, prospects, training restaurant, 3bbb, malcolm vallance, aboriginal programs, ian cathie, caroline hogg, 'trained men make their own terms' exhibition at the gold museum, ricky hains, stephen hughes, dennis bolster, aboriginal education, e.j. tippett obituary, patti mcnulty, bob feary, equal opportunity officer, robert c. morgan, school of business and information technology, e.j. tippett library, e.j. tippett library opening, carpentry and joinery, women's trade and technical program, rural education program, ararat prison program, barometer, oil seed research, . bill gribble, peter shiells retirement, robert c. lovett, max palmer, jenny gough, barrie firth, colin mccurry, dora hormann, organisation structure, brewery acquisition, humffray street primary school, grant street retaining wall, neville bunning plaque, vce plus, ararat prison, ballarat showgrounds rotunda -
Ringwood and District Historical Society
Newspaper - Clippings, Ringwood Mail, First Speech Night - Norwood High School, Ringwood, Victoria, 1958
Ringwood Mail newspaper article clipped from pages 9 and 14, 23 December, 1958.Norwood's First Speech Night FOR its first Annual Speech Night Norwood High School put on a remarkably smooth and entertaining performance. It even broke new ground for these occasions by staging a junior Mannequin Parade. In the appreciative audience were the Mayor and Mayoress of Ringwood (Cr. and Mrs. R. 0. Spencer), Cr.and Mrs. Peter Vergers, Cr.and Mrs. Doug Baxter, Cr.and Mrs. Ben Hubbard, and Mr. George Ormandy (Head Master of Ringwood High School) and Mrs. Ormandy. After the singing of the Norwood High School Song,'Fidelis', the Mayor, as Chairman, gave high praise to the school for its 'mighty effort on its first Speech Night.' It was an historic night, he said, an event which would live in the minds of the boys and girls of the school for as long as they lived. Education was a live issue today, the Mayor said, and it was as well to reflect on what the teaching staff of a school was asked to do. They were asked to teach the children how to play their part in life, to make decent men and women of them. And if the children were a future disappointment to their parents the Head Master and the staff could not be blamed. On behalf of the Council and citizens of Ringwood, the Mayor offered congratulations and good wishes for a happy Christmas. In his report the Head Master (Mr. J. A. Gibson, B.A.) said the school colours of purple and gold had been appropriately chosen because of the golden wattle and purple sarsaparilla which rioted through the district. The badge design was a transition of Nowood to Northward, a symbolic representation of the magnetic compass which formed the central motif of the badge. The fact that the compass is used by travellers as a reliable guide gave the school the motto 'Fidelis' which combined the ideas of faithfulness trustworthiness and dependability. The word was easy to remember and to say, and its meaning set a worthy ideal which the boys and girls of the school could strive to attain. For House names native words had been chosen and they were associated with features of the district. The names Kalinda, Maroondah, Mullum and Yarra had already acquired a special significance for everyone associated -with the school. School traditions were also being established, the report went on, by the holding of annual swimming and athletic meetings and the awarding of prizes, and the school had been helped here by the generosity of certain good people of the community who had presented trophies. In the field of inter-house activities the Couche family had presented to the school the Couche Cup for Swimming Contests, and the Warrandyte cup for aggregate points earned in all sports; Mr. Avison had presented the Norwood Cup. for Athletics Contests, and Mr. and Mrs. Jack Godbehear the Rosebank Shield for award to the House gaining the highest aggregate score each year. Members of the Mackinlay family had perpetuated the name of the early owner of the property on which the school is built by donating a sum of money, the interest of which would provide the William and Elizabeth Mackinlay Prize each year for the Dux of Norwood High School. ATHLETIC SUCCESS The gross enrolment of 117, included 52 boys and 65 girls, who were divided into three forms of approx equal ability. The curriculum had been broadened to include excursions to the Art Gallery and Museum, to Orchestral concerts, and trips to Warrandyte, the Maroondah Dam and Healesville Wild Life Sanctuary. The school had taken part in inter-school sports contests during the year and came first in their section of the Swimming Contests held at Olympic Pool, also gaining second place at the Athletic Meeting at Olympic Park late in the year. A Social Service League had been formed in the school and had raised £36/7/3. This had been distributed to the Anti-Cancer Campaign, the Lord Mayor's Hospital Appeal, and Yooralla Crippled Children's Appeal. A Parents and Citizens Association had also been formed which had already raised more than £90 towards school funds. Mr. Gibson expressed the school's appreciation to the Head Master, staff and pupils of Boronia High School where Norwood pupils had been guests, and hoped that Norwood would be able to look after Mitcham High School as well in the coming year. After an informative explanation of the 'Importance and Responsibilities of a High School Advisory Council given by Inspector of Schools, Mr. H. W. Hopkins, B.A., the big moment of the evening arrived—the presentation of prizes and certificates by the Hon. J. W. Manson, MLA. Mr. Manson said the purpose of a school was twofold. It was to teach the children to fend for themselves and to live with one another. He congratulated Norwood High on its good start for the year and also those who didn't win prizes because, he said, they had learnt the most important lesson of all — not to win but to keep on trying. Second half of the program was purely entertainment. The School Drama Club presented a Christmas Nativity tableau and an adaptation of Charles Dickens' 'Christmas Carol' with considerable talent. The unique Dress Parade, conducted on the usual professional lines with a running commentary, was both amusing in its sophistication and delightful for the youthful charm of the mannequins and the excellence of the garments displayed. Attractive winter and summer school uniforms were displayed by boys and girls and featured the purple and gold colouring of the school. The girls' summer uniforms were fresh and cool looking with narrow lavender and white stripes. Gold Cesarine sports frocks were distinguished by a purple cord sash. Garments were made by girls in the Needlework Classes and reflected the greatest credit on both pupils and teachers. Cooking aprons, skirts, frocks and knitted sweaters and cardigans showed a wide variety and charm and the school uniforms were practical and smart. There was a bracket of rollicking folk dancing and a Making Music Interlude in which a group of boys and girls, in full hillbilly rig put on a turn with home-made instruments, penny whistles and their own fresh young voices. Teamwork was very good and the whole thing most amusing. Under the direction of Mr.J. A. Collins, the School choir sang delightfully; the traditional 'Greensleeves' and 'Gaudeums Igitur' being particularly effective. PRESENTATION PRIZES FORM 1A PASS CERTIFICATES — Margaret Forder, Noala Fullarton,Karen Gill, Jeanette Hamilton, Maureen Ing, Phyllis Kellar, Marie Knee, Norma Leslie, Mary Mackay, Valerie Quaife, Beverley Rimmer, Elizabeth Stubbs, Heather Trout, Gail Waugh, Brigitte Wieneroider, Jacqueline Wilson, Jeffrey Barnes, Stuart Dickson, Donald Duff, Brian Fitzgrald, Patrick Ford, Ian .Holt, Robert Jenkins, Allan Meyland, Ross Perkins, David Pullen, Denis Wise, John Wright. HONOUR CERTIFICATES; Lois Dewar, 89; Pauline Harmer 86.9, Brian Horswell 87.2. PASS CERTIFICATE and MOST IMPROVED: Willy Hoogstraat. HONOUR CERTIFICATE and DUX: Anne Luscombe, 94.9. FORM IB PASS CERTIFICATES: Faye Alsop, Helen Ashton, Joan Bedford, Carole Bonnett, Hazle Collins, Eileen Gunn, Gloria Lander, Meryn Longmire, Dianne Mclntyre, Geraldine McWilliam, Leslie Mahoney, Dawn Marley-, Judith Miller, Ann Morgan, Lucia Pruis, Dianne Whitehead, Jeffrey Aus, Peter Buckthorpe, Donald Falkingham, Brian Girvan, Nicholas Lobb, Graham Prime, Keith Purdie, Ronald Ryan, Colin Standfield, Kerry Stuart, Michael Toppin, Ian Weist, Terrence West, James Wilson. HONOLTR CERTIFICATES: Anne Couche 85.2; Susan Rule, 93.1; Dianne Thompson 92.1. PASS CERTIFICATE and MOST IMPROVED: Anne Bottomley. HONOUR CERTIFICATE and DUX: Arno Haemmerlea. FORM 1C PASS CERTIFICATES: Caroline Andrew, Ann Blower, Dianne Brown, Glenda Farrall, Judith Gibson, Jane Godbehear, Deidre Harding, Helen Morris, Margaret Patterson, Beverley Vergers, Heike Wenzel, Naomi Willshire. Beverley Wilson, Linda Woolan, Geoffrey David, Rowan Don, Timothy Donovan, Anthony Johnston, Michael Lavey, Frank Noble, Michael Parks, Graham Rogers, Gordon Stark, Angus Stark, David Williams. HONOUR, CERTIFICATES: Jennifer Coombs 87.1; Janice Cooke, 85.3; Merlyn Robertson 89.4; Richard Bell, 88.5; Peter Van Den Heuvel, 92.9; John Kerr, 89.3. PASS CERTIFICATE and MOST IMPROVED: Phillip Brown. HONOUR CERTTFICATE and DUX; Helena Lobb. ART PRIZE: Merlyn Robertson, 1C. NEEDLEWORK PRIZE: Judith Gibson, 1C. WILLIAM and ELIZABETH MACKINLAY PRIZE for Dux of the School: Anne Luscombe, 34.8. ATHLETICS CHAMPIONS. Norma Leslie (Mullum) under 13, girls. Dianne Whitehead (Yarra), 13 yrs and over girls, Don Falkingham (Kalinda), under 13, yrs, boys, Denis Wise (Maroondah), 13 years and over. HOUSE AWARDS Couche Cup for House Swimming Competition: Maroondah. Norwood Cup for House Athletics; Mullum. Warrandyte Cup for House Sport: Yarra. Rosebank Shield, for total House Points scored during year: Mullum. -
Ringwood and District Historical Society
Photograph, Boiler explosion at Ringwood station 20th June 1894 for engine 297R. "Heard in Box Hill"
Typed below photograph, "Boiler explosion at Ringwood station 20/6/1894. Heard in Box Hill". Article from newspapers:- Weekly Times (Melbourne, Vic. : 1869 - 1954), Saturday 27 January 1894, page 21 Official enquiry. The Board of Enquiry appointed by the Railway Commissioners to enquire into the causes of the boiler explosion which shattered the locomotive at Ringwood on Saturday night, assembled at the Railway department on Wednesday to commence its deliberations, The board consisted of Mr R. Fulton, engineer, C. W. McLean; engineer to the Marine Board, and Mr Mephan Ferguson, iron-founder. There is some difficulty at the outset about the constitution of the board; It was suggested that the Apt of Parliament contemplated that boards of experts, after the manner of the present one, needed, to have their appointments confirmed by the Governor-in-Council. The point, however, was not considered sufficiently important to prevent the board from proceeding with evidence. Robert Greyford, stationmaster at Ringwood, was the first witness. He said he saw the explosion on Saturday night at about twenty minutes to 8. There was a rush to the engine to see what had happened, and the driver and fireman were both found on the platform of the engine. The driver seemed badly hurt, but the fireman, to all appearances, was not so badly injured. They were both attended to and sent up to Melbourne by the last suburban train. Witness had a look at the engine and found the dome and all the plates round the boiler blown clean, away. The springs were also blown clean away. The Chairman (Mr Fulton) : Did you measure the distance ? Witness: Yes; one of the plates was 209 yards away. A piece from the top of the boiler 15 pounds in weight he found driven into the hard beaten track 410 yards away. Several pieces of boiler plate were found scattered at various distances. The buildings roundabout were injured. The Chairman; Did you notice anything peculiar about either of the driver or the fireman ? — No ; nothing wrong, with either of them. If the engine was blowing off at all, it must have been very light. In your opinion, were they perfectly sober ? — Perfectly. In approaching the station, is there a down or an up grade? — A very slight down grade. How is the road from Healesville ? — Up and down all the way. It is down, grade for about 200 yards coming into Ringwood station. They shut off ; steam about a quarter of a mile away, and come in at a good pace. They generally put on 15 pounds of steam while they are in the station. Mr Ferguson : Had the driver the usual load on ? — Yes ; about the usual load. Witness added that he had known the driver personally for about 10 years, and he had always been a careful, steady, sober man. He did not know the fireman so well. John Palmer, porter at Ringwood station, also saw the explosion. He was attending to the train on its arrival. He was knocked down by the force of the explosion. When he got up he saw the engine driver being carried into the office covered in blood. He noticed nothing peculiar about the driver and fireman, nor about the engine. Mr McLean : How far were you from the engine when you were knocked down ? — From ten to fifteen yards. William Paul, the guard of the train to which the injured locomotive Was attached, said he was looking at the engine at the very moment the explosion occurred. It seemed to come from exactly under the dome. The force of it took him off his feet. He was about 15 yards from the tender. When he rose he tried to reach the engine, but could not do so on account of the steam and coal dust. He called out to know whether any of the passengers were injured, and got no response, so that he concluded they were all right. All the lamps but about half dozen were extinguished by the force of the explosion, although the glass was not broken. He could testify most distinctly that the driver and fireman were both sober. The driver was a man who never drank. The steam started to blow off about a minute and a half before the explosion took place. The last place at which the engine took water was Healesville. The Chairman : Do yon know anything of the quality of the water there ? Is it creek water ? — Yes ; it comes from the Graceburn River. You never heard of its quality ?— No. How long have you known this engine on the road— About 13 months. Hew long have you known the driver on this line ? — About six weeks. I have known the fireman several years. The driver was a strict teetotaller, and I never saw the fireman take anything to drink in his life. Mr T. H, Woodroffe, chief mechanical engineer of the Victorian Railways, produced a report he had written to the secretary, about this explosion. The document gave facts concerning the engine and the explosion. It stated that the rapture seemed to have occurred at the rim of the plates adjoining the fire box. The engine was built at the Phoenix Foundry, Ballarat, in 1883. It was repaired at various times, the last time being in July of last year when it was sent to the Port Melbourne shops, and was then tested to a cold water pressure of 195 and found all right. It was the custom to overhaul all locomotives about every five years. The Chairman : There were no very heavy repairs in July, 1893; were there? — Not to the boilers. The shop manager's report says that the plug and safety tap holes were repaired, five new copper studs put in firebox, ash-pan door repaired, tender cleaned and overhauled, and studs re-rivetted, and boiler tested to pressure of 195, cold water. Mr Woodroffe read the report of the repairs effected to the boiler in December, 1888. That would be the time the plate was put in the boiler. On that occasion three new plates were put in the bottom and the boiler tested up to 195. The Chairman: Do you keep a record of the water used ?— Yes, the water in this case, I think, came from the Maroondah scheme. Mr Woodroffe said boilers were examined front time to time in the running sheds. In his opinion every possible care had been taken to keep the engine in proper care. There might, however, be lessons learnt from this. The Chairman: No doubt. From his examination of the plates [the] witness did not think the state of them could have been detected from the outside. There were no signs of leakage or sweating or anything of that sort. The next witness- was Walter Stinton, workshop manager at Newport and he said that the injured engine had been repeatedly repaired under his charge. He gave a technical account of the repairs effected on various occasions. The testing of locomotives was under his special notice. They had a high pressure pipe running; round the works, and a pump set at 2001b. When the boiler was pumped full of water the pressure when applied up to 1951b. The board appointed by the department to inquire into the Ringwood locomotive boiler explosion sat again at Spencer street on 25th inst. Mr R. Fulton presided and the other members of the board were. Mr Mephan Ferguson and Mr C. W. McLean. Charles Grubb, foreman of the boiler-makers at the Newport workshops, said he had inspected the pieces of plate that had been blown out of the engine, and after examining them, pointed out to the Chief Mechanical Engineer the portion where the plate had started to burst. It was under the lap, on the right hand side of the boiler. The grooving might be accounted for by bad water. During the past twenty years he had examined all the boilers that came into the Williamstown workshops, and while some were hardly marked at all, others were very badly eaten away. The practice was to cut out the defective portions. In this case the boiler was repaired in a similar manner. The Chairman : Can you suggest any other way of repairing so as to prevent accident ? — No, unless by taking out a plate on one side from the joint, and carrying it further up so as to avoid the joints meeting, or by taking out the plate altogether. What would.be the cost .of putting in a new " plate I—Perhaps about double the price; but I wouldn't recommend that course. It would be putting a new plate against plates that have been in use ten years or so and that would not be advisable. I think the present system better. I consider the present system of repairing the best. This is the first we have had so bad like that, to my knowledge. You attributed this to bad water. Is there no other probable cause ? — Well; unless the iron be bad. This was Lowmoor iron. I think this accident was caused by the eating away of plates. This one was the worst I have seen, for the short time it had been running. We use three classes of iron — Lowmoor, Monkbridge and Bowling. By Mr Woodroffe (Chief Mechanical Engineer) ; There are engines still running that were repaired at the same time as this one, in 1888, and. in the same way. These are engines 339 and 333. They have been recently examined and are in splendid order. What in your experience, is the age of a boiler on the Victorian railways? — From 17 to 20 years our earlier boilers stood. The later boilers don't stand so well. How is that? — There is difference in construction, and the material is lighter. The old boilers had thicker plates. Have you been asked in any way to curtail boiler affairs? — No, sir; nor in any way. You have never hesitated to carry out any necessary repairs? — Never. Our orders have been to exercise every care in examining, repairing and renewing boilers. Witness said that his practice was when an engine came into the workshop to find out how long she had been running. If over five years, he informed the workshop manager, and they thought it necessary the tubes were taken nut. If everything was in good order witness reported to the manager. The cost of taking out the tubes and putting them in again was about L20. Mr Woodroffe : Have you ever hesitated to repair a boiler on the score of expense ? — No, never. Mr McLean : Hew do yon ascertain whether a boiler requires repairs?— I keep a record of every boiler examined. From every boiler that comes in I have the dome covers taken off, and when it is practical I get inside. l can almost tell from the top of a boiler what the bottom is like. If there is any doubt about it I have the tubes taken out. If I have suspicion of defective plate I cause to have bored a triangle in the plate at the point where there is the most wear. There is a travelling inspector who visits all the running sheds of the colony except Port Melbourne and tests the boilers. He reports to us and we note what he points out. Alfred Thompson, locomotive inspector of the eastern section, said he knew this engine, 297R. He read a list of her repairs. He heard of the accident on Saturday night and went up to Ringwood. The Chairman : Did you ever notice anything peculiar about the engine? — No, I considered her A1 and would not have hesitated to have put on 140lb pressure owing to the repairs she had undergone. Witness considered that the explosion was caused by the expansion and contraction of the plates ; and, no doubt, the plate had been eaten away through bad water. The other side of the boiler showed: signs of corrosion: By Mr Woodroffe ; Is every care taken with the boilers ? — Yes, every possible care is taken for the safety of boilers, Weekly Times (Melbourne, Vic. : 1869 - 1954), Saturday 27 January 1894, page 7 EXPLOSION OF A LOCOMOTIVE BOILER, NARROW ESACPE FROM FATALITIES. THE DAMAGED ENGINE. [See drawing of loco – saved in “Railways” folder] The explosion of a locomotive boiler at Ringwood on Saturday evening, formed the subject of much discussion in railway circles on Monday. The Minister arrived at the office at an unusually early hour and immediately entered into a consultation with the acting chairman, Mr Kibble, and Mr Commissioner Murray. As the result of the interview it was resolved to ask three gentlemen of acknowledged engineering experience to sib as a board with the . object of inquiring into the cause of the accident and furnishing a report. Mr Richardson and the Commissioners are tally seized of the importance of having a searching investigation into the accident, and, with Mr Murray, the former went to Ringwood to inspect the scene of the disaster. They will he accompanied by Mr Woodroffe. During the morning no official report had come to hand from the driver or fireman of the engine in reference to the accident, but that is thought to be due to the circumstance that they have not sufficiently recovered to be able to give a circumstantial account of what occurred. The engine was one of the old R's, and, Mr Kibble pronounced them to be about the best class of engines used. So far nothing can be said as to the probable cause of the accident, as the broken plating of the engine has not been submitted to the inspection of experts. Weekly Times (Melbourne, Vic. : 1869 - 1954), Saturday 27 January 1894, page 7 STATEMENT BY THE FIREMAN. This morning Thomas Miles, fireman on the engine the boiler of which exploded on Saturday night, is suffering from an injury to the spine, as well as a very severe shaking to the system. He states that he was fireman on the engine attached to the train which left Healesville on Saturday evening, at ten minutes to 8. Everything went all right until Ringwood was reached, when, .just as the train was about to continue its journey, a load explosion took place and Miles remembers nothing more until he was picked np on the platform ; and found himself suffering from a pain in the back, and an injury to his arm. He cannot think of any reason which could have caused the explosion, as there was plenty of water in the boiler, and everything seemed working all right. Mr R. Fulton, consulting engineer, of Queen street; Mr McLean, a member of the Marine Board ; and Mr Mephan Ferguson, engineer, have consented to act as a board to inquire into the cause of the engine boiler explosion at Ringwood on Saturday evening. The board has been appointed under section 117 of Act 1135, which provides that the Governor-in-Council may direct the taking of a such a step. Mr1 Fulton will act as chairman of the board, which met for the first time at the railway offices, Spencer street, this forenoon. Before separating the members of the Board paid a visit to the Prince's Bridge locomotive sheds in company with Mr Woodroffe, the chief mechanical engineer, for the purpose of inspecting the shattered boiler. It has been stated that the explosion is known to have been caused by a flaw in a plate which was put on the boiler about four years ago, but enquiries have tailed to elicit anything in support of that view. The engineers connected with the department are not inclined to say anything on the subject. Weekly Times (Melbourne, Vic. : 1869 - 1954), Saturday 14 April 1894, page 20 The Ringwood Boiler Explosion, The Minister of Railways has received the supplementary report of the board appointed by him to investigate the circumstances connected with the explosion of a locomotive boiler at Ringwood. In their first report the board did not attach blame to anyone. Mr Richardson felt satisfied that the responsibility of having the engines properly inspected and overhauled periodically could be fixed if the inquiry were extended. He therefore referred the matter again to the Board, who took further evidence. In the report now furnished, the Board hold Loco. Inspector Thompson blameable, but point out as a mitigating circumstance that he had not received "written instructions" respecting inspections and overhauls. Weekly Times (Melbourne, Vic. : 1869 - 1954), Saturday 7 July 1894, page 32 The Ringwood Boiler Explosion. The Minister of Railways takes exception to the tone of a paragraph appearing in a morning contemporary respecting the Ringwood boiler explosion. It makes it appear that Mr Richardson has referred the report of the board which considered the facts connected with the explosion to the Crown solicitor simply because he differed from the finding of the board. The Minister explains that when he received the report he found that the responsibility for having boilers properly inspected and overhauled had not been clearly fixed. He personally obtained farther evidence on that point, and arrived at a conclusion, from which the commissioners differed. As he did not like to take upon himself the responsibility of deciding upon the effect of the evidence, he submitted the matter to the Crown Solicitor, but that officer did not furnish him with the information sought. He has, therefore, referred the question to the Attorney-General, together with the draft of a regulation respecting boiler inspections and overhauls in the future. Mr Richardson says that his whole aim is to have the responsibility positively fixed. Weekly Times (Melbourne, Vic. : 1869 - 1954), Saturday 28 April 1894, page 23 The Minister of Railways has completed his consideration of the supplementary report received by him from the Ringwood Boiler Explosion Board. The report, it will be remembered, held Loco-Inspector Thompson blameable for the non-inspection of the boiler, but considered there was extenuating circumstances. There was a certain amount of doubt as to the absolute instructions given for overhauling engines periodically. Mr. Richardson is sending the report on to the Commissioners with instructions that the responsibility respecting inspection of boilers shall be made clear for the future. -
City of Moorabbin Historical Society (Operating the Box Cottage Museum)
Tools, Wagon Wheel Spanner c1900, c1900
Among the early settlers in Moorabbin Shire were blacksmiths who made tools for the other settlers who were establishing the homes, market gardens, farms, orchards and various businesses. Early settlers were self reliant and repaired their own equipment for kitchen,dairy, farm, horses, wagons, carts using various tools . These large spanners were used on a horse-drawn wagons, carriages, stagecoaches, and carts. A wheelwright would use this tool to make or repair the wheels. All sizes of buggy spanners, or wagon wrenches, were needed as wagon wheels were of many different sizes. This wagon wheel spanner is typical of the type used by early settlers in Moorabbin Shire c1900 Horse-drawn wagons were used to transport the produce of the market gardeners to the Melbourne markets. Buggies, Traps and Jinkers were popular with farmers, Doctors, and Councillors for trips into town before the advent of the motorized vehicles.A steel wheel wrench, spanner for wagon wheels. c1900 wagons, wheelwrights, spanners, iron rimmed wheels , early settlers, market gardeners, blacksmiths, tools, building equipment, hammers, moorabbin shire, bentleigh, mckinnon, highett, cheltenham,mcewan james pty ltd, melbourne, bunnings pty ltd, -
Nillumbik Shire Council
Pottery (jar): Joan ARMFIELD, Jar with Stamped Rim
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Nillumbik Shire Council
Pottery (plate): Joan ARMFIELD and David ARMFIELD, Platter with Black Rim and Grevillia Decoration
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Robin Boyd Foundation
Booklet, California Council, The American Institute of Architects (Honolulu, Hawaii), First Pacific Rim Conference, Oct-59
Boyd spoke at a discussion panel titled "Wellsprings of Design" on Monday October 12th, 1959 - page 13. (Photo of Boyd included)hawaii, honolulu, a.i.a, elisabeth kendall thompson, walsh st library -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Photograph, Portrait of Winifred Noble, c.1910
One of five group and individual portraits of the Noble family of Kew, two in the rear garden of what is presumed to be ‘Charnwood’, in Station Street, Coburg. The photographs date from the period c.1890-1914. One of the larger framed photographs is a portrait of the entire family group, while another is of two of the children, Frederick and Winifred. The father, Frederick William Noble was a businessman, and, at one period Secretary of the Victorian Creamery & Butter Company in South Melbourne. Later he was to manage J. Bartram & Co., Ice & Cold Storage Department in Flinders Lane. By 1906, the Noble family had moved to Kew, living for almost 20 years at 100 Walpole Street before relocating to 26 Molesworth Street in the mid 1920s. The five photographs in the collection reveal details of family life and social values as expressed through attire. The family is formally costumed in a manner indicative of their social status. Mrs Noble, in one of the large framed portraits, is dressed in a sombre manner in a long, dark-coloured long-sleeved, high-necked gown. It is difficult to know whether she is dressed in mourning wear in this black and white photograph. It was not uncommon for a woman to regularly wear mourning attire due to the high mortality rate in the Victorian era. This situation was compounded for women due to the size of extended families. A woman might rarely be out of mourning due to the death of a parent, a sibling, a husband, a child or a near relative. The portraits of the Noble family children, particularly Frederick and Winifred, show the elaborateness of formal attire worn by the children of wealthy families during the late Victorian era. Winifred is dressed in a long cotton dress and a broad-rimmed hat; both liberally covered in lace. Winifred and Frederick’s lace collars extend to their shoulders. Winifred’s diaries, covering the period 1908-50, are now in the collection of the State Library of Victoria. The most detailed of the diaries is from 1914, just before the outbreak of World War 1, and includes ‘Accounts of my Dancing Evenings - Season 1914’. The diaries were the inspiration for an art exhibition by Jim Pavlidis in 2014. One of the family’s two sons, Frederick, was to work at The Age newspaper for 50 years. His obituary records that “He was regarded as the epitome of accuracy and a fount of knowledge on many subjects, but especially cricket, the Royal Melbourne Show and Gilbert & Sullivan”. With Robert Morgan he compiled Speed the Plough, a history of the Royal Agricultural Society of Victoria and its role in developing agriculture in Victoria.Framed photographic half portrait of Winifred Noble in the original carved wooden frame. Winifred lived at 'Avalon' in Molesworth Street, Kew.Handwritten label on rear "Winifred Noble c 1910-12"noble family, winifred noble, photographic portrait, kew