Showing 234 items
matching shelves
-
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Stationary baler
The stationary hay baler was introduced to farms around 1930's. Prior to this hay was collected and stored in the barn to be distributed later. From the mid 1800's some farms used balers in the barn which dropped weights onto the hay for compacting but this required many trips back and forth to collect and store hay. This hay baler could be towed to each paddock by horse or tractor. Grasses would be forked into the chute by two workers. The engine would force the hay into bales and feed it out onto the parallel shelves seen in the photo.They would be hand tied by two other workers .The baler saved time and labour. The manufacturer cannot be identified, but this baler is similar to the H.V. McKay Massey Harris Hay Presses built in Sunshine Vic. and operating in farms around the 1940's.Unpainted, rusted, stationary balerfarm, machinery, hay, chaff, baler, horse drawn, machine driven, churchill island -
Mont De Lancey
Furniture - Dressing table, Mr Franz Streizel, Unknown
The dressing table is part of the Franz Streizel Collection. It was given to Mrs Dorothy Adamson on the occasion of her wedding. It is part of a special bequest to the Mont De Lancey Museum of hand carved furniture and items made by Mr Franz Striezel by his grandaughter Mrs Dorothy Adamson. Dorothy was a friend of Nella Lord (nee Sebire). Dorothy passed away in 2007. It was to be known as The Franz Striezel Collection. Franz Streizel came from Germany in 1886 and was one of the three recognised craftsmen (Art Carvers) in Australia who contributed to the wood carvings in public buildings and honour boards throughout Australia. The National Gallery at their request had two small panels and a tobacco jar (some of his work), donated by Mrs D Adamson. They considered these pieces highly valuable.An ornately carved rosewood dressing table with a moveable mirror which moves backwards and forwards for use. It has two ornately carved small shelves at the sides attached to the mirror, one small central drawer, shaped sides above the top of the lower dressing table top. There are two small and two large drawers below with ornate brass handles. There is an inlaid pattern on the front of the drawers. There are three framed photographs - 1. A portrait of Dorothy Adamson. 2. A portrait of Karl Adamson. 3. A wedding photograph of Dorothy with two bridesmaids. Ornaments and a doiley are displayed on the dressing table.dressing tables, tables, furniture, photographs -
Orbost & District Historical Society
jar, 1993
A young chemist named Dr. Cyril P Callister, hired by the Fred Walker Company, developed a new spread from brewer’s yeast. It was claimed as the richest known sources of natural Vitamin B. Labelled as ‘Pure Vegetable Extract’, it was sold in a two ounce amber glass jar and capped with what was known as a Phoenix seal, to keep the contents fresh. A competition inviting the Australian public to create a name for the new spread offered a prize of 50 pounds. finalists. Hundreds of people entered and Fred Walker’s daughter selected the winning name: VEGEMITE. The name of the winning entrant was never placed on record. VEGEMITE spread was then sold from grocers’ shelves. In April 1984, a 115-gram jar of vegemite became the first product in Australia to be electronically scanned at a checkout A commemorative jar was produced to celebrate the occasion of 70 years - 1922-1997.Vegemite is possibly Australia's most iconic food brand. Since the 1930s it has been a major part of this country's cuisine. Yet unlike other Australian icons the attraction of Vegemite has remained local. A tapered brown glass jar with a gold metal lid. The label o the front is red with yellow, white and black print. there is a similar smaller label on the lid. with black writing.On base: a spiral with 10 in centre circle 13573 underneath the spiral above is letter A with raised dots insidevegemite jar -
Stawell Historical Society Inc
Photograph, BIARRI members
7146: TWO MEN SEATED, THE MAN ON RIGHT IN A DARK WINDCHEATER, THE MAN ON LEFT IN A CREAM PATTERNED JUMPER. 7146-1: FOUR PEOPLE TWO MEN, TWO WOMEN, BOTH MEN SEATED, WOMAN ON RIGHT ELEANOR MUSUMECI. 7146-2 FOUR PEOPLE THREE MEN ONE WOMAN, ONE MAN SEATED, ELEANOR MUSUMECI ON FAR RIGHT. 7146-:3 : FOUR PEOPLE TWO MEN, TWO WOMEN, BOTH MEN SEATED, WOMAN ON RIGHT ELEANOR MUSUMECI. 7146-4: THREE PEOPLE TWO MEN AND ONE WOMAN. ELEANOR MUSUMECI ON RIGHT. 7146-5: THREE PEOPLE TWO MEN AND ONE WOMAN. ELEANOR MUSUMECI ON RIGHT. 7146-6: THREE PEOPLE TWO WOMEN AND A SEATED MAN, THE MAN IS READING. 7146-7: TWO SEATED MEN, TALKING, SHELVES WITH FOLDERS AND OTHER ITEMS BEHIND THEM. Eight Colour photographs of people.biarri -
Royal District Nursing Service (now known as Bolton Clarke)
Photograph - Photograph, black and white, Barry Sutton, circa 1965
Sister Short is writing down information being given by patient Sue Rowley who will be discharged from the Hospital. It will be phoned through to the appropriate RDNS Centre where it is recorded by the Clerical staff and passed to the RDNS Sister who will visit Sue on her discharge. Liaison had occurred between Doctors and the Trained nurses of the Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS), from its inception in 1885. This increased when Midwifery was introduced in 1893 with close liaising with the Women’s Hospital. As District nursing grew it was recognized that closer liaising between many Public Hospitals would be beneficial, for not only the MDNS, later called Royal District Nursing Service (RDNS), nursing staff, but also for the patients and the hospitals. In August 1964 a Liaison Officer commenced at the Alfred Hospital. This soon increased to Liaison Officers working full time at several Public Hospitals. They facilitated the smooth transition from hospital to home for many patients who required ongoing nursing care. Liaison Sisters regularly attended discharge planning meetings, interviewed prospective clients, co-ordinated discharge and booked the first visit by the visiting RDNS staff. At the time of a patient’s discharge, the Liaison Sister forwarded information on their diagnosis and instructions regarding the care required at home to the appropriate RDNS Centre, and in turn the attending District Sister wrote a report of progress and any queries to the hospital doctor, via the Liaison Sister, at the time the patient was attending outpatients. Any new instructions were then sent back to the District Sister. Liaising also occurred between District Sisters in the field and Doctors when patients were referred by General Practitioners and did not attend a hospital. A Physiotherapist worked under contract to teach transfer techniques to RDNS Sisters before RDNS employed there own Physiotherapist who taught staff the correct techniques, not only for safety of the patient, but to reduce physical strain on RDNS nursing staff and patient’s family members. The Physiotherapist made home visits with the attending RDNS Sister when required.Standing to the left of the black and white photograph is hospital Physiotherapist, Anne Radford, who has short dark hair and is wearing a white coat. She is side on and has her hands placed on the upper and lower right arm of Sue Rowley, who is sitting in a wheelchair. Sue has short dark hair and is wearing a neck brace and her left hand is holding a pulley rope. She is wearing a white top under a dark jacket and light coloured slacks. To her right is Royal District Nursing Service (RDNS), Liaison Sister, Margaret Short who is facing Sue. She has her left hand extended supporting an open book and has a pen in her right hand which is poised on a page in the book. Sister Short is wearing her RDNS grey short sleeve uniform dress and grey peaked hat over her short dark hair. The RDNS insignia is seen on the top of her left sleeve. Behind the wheelchair are some wooden bars, two upright and two vertical, which are attached to a brick wall, the pulley rope is through a wheel attached to the right hand upright. The brick wall joins another which has part of a window visible. Behind the Sister and wheelchair are four shelves attached to this brick wall. Several round weights are on the shelves.Photographer stamp. Hand written informationroyal district nursing service, rdns, rdns liaison, rdns uniform, ms sue rowley, physiotherapist anne radford, sister margaret short -
Port Melbourne Historical & Preservation Society
Photograph - Interior, former grocery shop, 175 Stokes Street, Port Melbourne, Russell Polson, 1991
Shop due for demolition was purchased by artist Helen ..... and restored keeping most of it intact. These pictures were taken at the time of sale by Russell POLSON, a descendant of the Bellions. They were brought in for copying in 1991 by the Bellion's granddaughter, Margaret BRIDE.24 photos taken by Russell POLSON in 1991 of Benjamin Henry BELLION (original builder) and Elzabeth Sarah WALKER's shop and shipping business at 175 Stokes Street.. 1870 to 1959. (.01) cash drawer. (.02) windows. (.03) stables (.04) backyard (.05) back house (.06) bathroom (.07) fireplace (.08) bedroom (.09) stairs (.10) cupboard (.11) shelves (.12) drawers (.13) bench (.14) bench 2 (.15) under windows (.16) bench and door (.17) under stairs (.18) windows 2 (.19) door (.20) stables and yard (.21) backwindow (.22) sideway (.23) kitchen (.24) upstairsbusiness and traders - grocers and supermarkets, built environment - commercial, benjamin bellion, william j bellion, helen leitch, a peterson -
Southern Sherbrooke Historical Society Inc.
Photograph - Joy, Lynette and John Hermon on the occasion of Lynette's 2nd birthday
B&W photo of Joy, Lynette and John Hermon at Menzies Creek on the occasion of Lynette's 2nd birthday. Photo shows the children sitting on the front door step. There is a wooden framed chicken wire fence to the left, a screen door behind them, and on the right is what appears to be a wooden display stand with two shelves and turned legs. Joy is wearing a dark skirt with shoulder straps over a light, collared blouse, and a bow in her hair. She is holding a doll in front of her. Lynette is dressed in a smocked patterned dress. John has a shirt and tie, and shorts with braces. A doll is also sitting on the ground in front of him. Dated 24th November 1952. -
Parks Victoria - Gabo Island Lightstation
Locker, flag
Probably used in the past to house the Signal Flag set at the lightstation. Appears to have been stored in the old stables for a number of years.The rectangular wooden cabinet has the distinctive features of a flag locker, comprising numerous open compartments of the same size each for storing a signal flag of a unique design. It has three internal shelves and a bench top, and is painted grey, a colour that is used for many of the wooden utilitarian furnishings in the six lightstations Parks Victoria manages. The cabinet, without its flag contents, was found in storage in the old stone stable building and is highly likely to be original to the lightstation. A wooden flag locker is held at Wilsons Promontory Lightstation. A wooden locker comprising two sections of 16 pigeon holes and four cupboard doors is held at Cape Otway The two flag lockers at Cape Nelson Lightstation are included in Victorian Heritage Register for contributing to the significance of the lightstation. The Nelson, Otway and Promontory lockers have associated sets of flags which are original to the lightstations. The Gabo Island cabinet has second level contributory significance for its provenance to the lightstation.Timber cabinet painted grey, partitioned with numerous open compartments of the same size . -
Bendigo Historical Society Inc.
Administrative record - Stock Book
The item is a hard cover book recording stock in 1890 for T.J. Connolly, Ironmongers, Sandhurst. Each handwritten page lists goods by location, quantity, description, prices with price total at the bottom of each page. Locations include shelves, floor, yard, factory, paint shop. Pages 1 to 164 have been numbered by hand. An alphabetical index list types of stock on unnumbered pages after page 165, followed by blank pages. The hard cover is patterned and shows some wearing at the corners and front and minimal wear on the back. The spine edge is red with considerable wear at the top and bottom. The pages are bound together with string. This item is part of the Margaret Roberts Collection.There are ink spots on the front and back cover. A list of numbers, titled "Prices required" is handwritten inside the back cover. A piece of paper is stuck inside the back cover, listing items to be added.margaret roberts collection, ironmongers, forest street, bendigo businesses -
Ballarat Clarendon College
Framed items
The original Weatherly Library was situated in the space immediately on the left of the archway. The fittings and furnishing of the library was a generous gift in 1936 of Mrs H P Mackenzie of Trawalla in honour of her pioneer parents, Mr and Mrs William Weatherly. The library was panelled with blackwood and fitted with shelves intended to eventually house 3000 books. Specially made solid blackwood chairs, upholstered in genuine hide, two long reading tables, an upholstered bench seat under the north window and an ornate carved mantelpiece topped by a classical broken pediment framing a carved head of Minerva were also donated. In 1971 this library was no longer large enought o serve the growing number of boys at the college; it was replaced by a bigger, separate building, also known as the Weatherly Library. This building is currently in use, and recently renovated, as the senior staff room. In 1993 a third library building was opened and named Erindale in recognition of property associated with Clarendon PLC. In 2012 the school opened the Fraser Library on the senior campus in honour of old collegian and school council chair, Darrell J Fraser. Wooden frames with mounts and glass; both include printed descriptions; one includes a black and white photographh p mackenzie, weatherly library -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Stove, Cox and Rizzetti Stove Works, ca. 1918-1930s
Cast iron stoves burn solid fuel such as wood or coal, and are used for cooking and warmth. The stoves have a firebox with a grate where the fuel is burned. The hot air flows through flues and baffles that heat the stove top and the oven. Before cast iron stoves were invented, cooking and heating were carried out in outdoor open fires, and later, in fireplaces inside the home. In 1642 the first cast iron stove was manufactured in Lynn, Massachusetts, where molten cast iron was poured into a sand mould to make rectangular plates that were then joined together to make a box. Benjamin Franklin invented the more efficient Pennsylvania stove in 1744, and this efficient design is still used today. After the mid-19th century cast iron stoves were produced with burners in different positions, giving varied temperatures, so a wide variety of foods could be cooked at the same time at the most suitable heat, from slow cooking to baking scones. In contemporary times people the new wood-burning stoves had to meet the anti-pollution standards now in place to protect our environment. By the 1920s gas cookers were being introduced for domestic use, and by the 1930s electric home cookers were being offered to householders. PLANET STOVES In August 1925 the firm Cox and Rizzetti, Stove Works, and also Sydney Road, South Melbourne, advertised in the Brunswick and Coburg Leader of November 11, 1925 as "formerly with Harnwell and Sons" and as "specialists in solid cast iron Planet stoves ... which merit an inspection from builders and householders". The firm continued in business and was mentioned as sponsors in the King Island News in 1971. Harnwell and Sons was listed in the Victorian Government Gazette of 1894. It is curious that the firm was mentioned in an article in the Sunrasia Daily of June 14, 1934 titled 'Planet Stoves' as a manufacturer of Planet Stoves. This Planet No 3 stove is an uncommon example of cooking equipment used in kitchens in the early 20th century, as the firebox is above the oven rather than beside it. The cast iron combustion stove is significant as part of the evolution of domestic cooking. Previously cooking was mostly carried out in outdoors in open fires, and later in fireplaces indoors. Cast iron stoves are still used today and have additional features such as thermostats to monitor and maintain temperature, water heating pipes connected, and environmentally approved anti-pollution fittings. Stove; a compact, blackened cast iron combustion cooker, installed within a fireplace and enclosed by bricks on both sides. The upright rectangular stove has a flat top with three round, removable cook plates and a flue connected at the back. The front has three doors with round knob handles; a swing-down firebox door above a sliding ashtray, and two side-hinged oven doors above a sliding opening. Inside on the side walls are two pairs of runners. Behind the pair of doors is an oven with two pairs of rails and two removable metal shelves. The stove has cast inscriptions on the chimney flue and on the front of the right hand side stove door. The model of the stove is The Planet No 3, made in Melbourne.Chimney flue, "[within rectangle] THE / PLANET" Stove door, "(within oval) PLANET / No 3"flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, stove, cast iron stove, combustion stove, wood-burning stove, wood stove, wood oven, solid fuel stove, cooker, the planet, planet, planet no. 3, kitchen equipment, baking, domestic cooking, cooking equipment, food preparation, planet stove, planet cooker, cooking range, slow combustion stove, antique, range cooker, cox and rizzetti, harnwell and sons, melbourne manufacturer -
Bendigo Historical Society Inc.
Photograph - FORTUNA COLLECTION: BLACK AND WHITE PHOTOGRAPH OF A ROOM AT FORTUNA VILLA
Black and white photograph of a room at Fortuna Villa. This room is highly decorated with framed photographs, small figurines, tall ornate lamp with bulbous glass, glass fuel container, left is a small carved table with small figurine, tray and container, next is another table covered with a decorated cloth, in the corner is a taller cabinet style cupboard with glass panels in the door, and a number of small items with a framed photo at the rear, next is a short standard light with artistically decorated shade, to the right is very decorative shelving unit, with small figurines on the shelves, large decorated cylinder with lid, smaller jar with painted decoration and deep lid, foreground has a table made up of 4 triangular pieces and a glass vase and flowersindustries -
Kiewa Valley Historical Society
Case for G.P. Multimeter, Circa 1950
This leather case holder for a general purpose Multi-meter( KVHS 0307 (A)) was manufactured after 1950 and used by the SEC Vic (Kiewa Hydro Electricity Scheme) from that date until late 1900's. It was used to measure very small voltages associated with the operation of the various Hydro Generators. The readings were able to be shown by the resistor in use in the current circuit. During this time period, high quality testing instruments were either sourced from Europe or England. This particular carry case was manufactured in the Netherlands. This carry case for an analog General Purpose multi-meter which is quite a large (for a handheld mobile) apparatus.The bag however permits the easy monitoring of electrical variations within the large SEC Victoria Hydro Scheme's electrical generators. These generators are powered by the hydro force of "stored" water at a higher altitude. The establishment of both the NSW and Victorian Hydro schemes was achieved from the mid 1900's to the 1960's. At this point in time the need for additional power sources to quench both an industrial and domestic demand for electricity was purely an economic and not and environmental (carbon reduction) factor. This hydro scheme was instigated by "the Government of the day" as a bold move and was the major force of the World War II refugee and "technical" workforce inclusion of skilled and unskilled migration into the Australian environment. Although this mass "invasion" of workers with families was thought of in some circles as intrusive, the expansion of population post war years and its integration into the Australian rural sector, produced the multi- lingual multi-cultural diversity of later years.This leather case is to provide protection for this mobile G.P. Multimeter, therefore it is made from thick leather. It has a carrying strap from a thick "D" chromed link. This link is fastened to the main cover by a looped leather strip with a black coloured rivet. All the fasteners are either chrome or black coloured rivets. The front, which when opened back exposes fully the inside of the case. It is clip fastened to the lower section of the front piece which also can be pushed back allowing the meter to be removed from the frontal position. There is a strip retaining strap slightly higher from the mid point. This is fasted by a black press stud. There are two "L" shaped tin protrusions allowing the meter to slide only down the case until it rests on these shelves. This provides for an empty space for minimal storage,.On the front bottom and below the clasp is a tag "STATE ELECTRICITY COMMISSION OF VICTORIA TRANSMISSION DEPT."sec vic kiewa hydro scheme, alternate energy supplies, alpine population growth -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Sewing machine in cabinet, Ward Brothers (G & S Ward), ca. 1933
The donor inherited this Wardana machine from her mother, who bought it in about 1933 and used it to sew garments for her sister's dressmaking business in Frankston, Victoria. The donor often used this machine until she purchased an updated model. There were originally three Ward Brothers who owned the North Melbourne sewing machine business but they had a falling out. This machine's decals on the map of Australia only include the two remaining brothers. The Ward Brothers, G & S Ward, established their sewing machine business in North Melbourne in 1888. The cabinets and ironwork of the machines were made in Australia and the Ward Bros. imported their machines from overseas manufacturers in England, America and Germany. The assembled machines were sold under brand names that included Ward, A.N.A. the patriotic-sounding Australian Sewing Machine Company. The "Wardana" was one of their brands.This sewing machine was fabricated in Australia from imported parts from England, giving a snapshot into the early manufacturing industries that were operating at the time just after Federation.Sewing machine in a wooden cabinet with iron foot-operated cast iron treadle mechanism. The hinged cabinet top opens out to form a worktop. The sewing machine lifts out of the cabinet to sit level with the worktop, resting on two supports within the cabinet. The lockable cabinet door opens from right to left revealing fitted shelves and spikes for spools and bobbins. The gold-painted maker's name is cast into the black treadle. The machine has its original instruction book, oil can, and eighteen accessories in an enclosed cardboard box. The round shallow oil bottle has a rubber dispensing tube. Colourful decals decorate the black body of the machine. Inscriptions include a Serial Number stamped on the bed of the machine. The Wardarna Central Bobbin machine was made in England for the Ward Brothers of North Melbourne.TREADLE: cast into metal ACROSS THE TOPE AND ON THE FOOTPLATE "WARD", "WARD" SERIAL NUMBER stamped into oval plate "28383" DECAL: (Map of Australia ) with images of [two brothers] , "WARDANA" above (logo of the rising sun) DECAL: (Decorative floral design with heraldic-like emblems) above "MADE IN ENGLAND" ARM: "WARDANA" PEDESTAL: "C.B." (representing Central Bobbin) "MADE IN ENGLAND" "MADE IN ENGLAND / FOR / WARD BROS / NORTH MELBOURNE" BOOK TITLE: "Instructions for Treadle Machine" ACCESSORIES: some have indecipherable embossed stamps OIL BOTTLE base: (image of log and short lines radiating from a central inscription (indecipherable)sewing machine, domestic, wardana, ward bros., central bobbin, made in england, north melbourne, c.b., flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, treadle sewing machine, home industry, clothing, dressmaking, clothing manufacturer -
Geoffrey Kaye Museum of Anaesthetic History
Waveform Ventilator, 1970
Professor Arthur Barrington (Barry) Baker was the first Australian anaesthetist to gain a DPhil in anaesthesia. He completed his DPhil at Oxford University at the Nuffield Department of Anesthesia in 1971, titled, Physiological Responses to Artificial Ventilation. The Waveform Ventilator is the machine developed to illustrate his DPhil. The waveform ventilator was used in several scientific studies on 'the effects of varying inspiratory flow waveforms and time in intermittent positive pressure ventilation (IPPV)', published in the 'British Journal of Anaesthesia'. Professor Arthur Barrington Baker had an extensive career in research and clinical practice including holding the position as the Nuffield Professor of Anaesthetics at Sydney university (1992 - 2005) and also as the Dean of the Australian and New Zealand College of Anaesthetists (ANZCA) (1987-1990).The variable waveform ventilator is of national significance, due to its association with Professor Arthur Barrington Baker (Prof. Baker) the first Australian academic anaesthetist, and the representation of historical social themes and research and design, in anaesthesia. Historic significance – It is a rare type of ventilator in good condition and well provenanced. It is a tangible record of the beginning of the long established and distinguished career of Prof. Baker, the first anaesthetist in Australia to gain a DPhil. Prof Baker has a strong involvement in the Australian and New Zealand College of Anaesthetists (ANZCA) organisation. The object is a product of Prof Baker’s Doctorate of Philosophy (DPhil) on respiratory physiology and is associated with the prestigious Oxford University and the well-known Nuffield Department of Anaesthetics. It also represents the social theme of migration to England from Australia in the 1960s and 1970s to access and experience academic and artistic opportunities limited in Australia at the time. Scientific Value – The object is of scientific value as it offers major potential for education and interpretation in anaesthesia. Although ventilators are common equipment, this specific design and construct prototype is one of a kind, designed and used specifically for research purposes. A rectangular shaped object on a trolley with four wheels. The top half of the object consists of two panels, one of cream coloured painted wood, the other black plastic, both containing several dials of different shapes and sizes. The wood surface also contains several gauges and a safety pressure clear plastic box. The plastic surface also contains a pin board. The bottom half of the object consists of two shelves. The whole object's perimeter is lined with perforated metals. The top wooden surface has several metal pieces of equipment and a long tube. The rear of the object contains numerous types of tubing and wire, a gas cylinder and two leather straps with buckles. The bottom half of one side of the objects has 3 electrical power outlets.Waveform Generator, Drs Colliss N Cowie, Dr Baker Dr Murray Willson, Dr Babbington, Safety Pressure, Error POS F/B, Position, Feedback, Set Balance, Reset, Full Stroke, Velocity, Converter Current, line Pressure, Low Pressure, Bias Pressure, Start, Stop, Stop, Reset Press, Max Press, W/G Output, A/CRO B/2.baker, arthur barrington, baker, barry, professor, academic anaesthetist, oxford university, nuffield department of anaesthesia -
Mont De Lancey
Furniture - Organ, Wilcox and White, 1885
There is a brass plaque that states: THIS PLAQUE IS IN MEMORY OF DORA CHAPMAN daughter of William and Estelle Chapman CALLED HOME WHILE PLAYING THE ORGAN ON THE OCCASION OF THE 30TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE SILVAN CHURCH. SEPTEMBER, 27TH 1936 DORA WAS A SISTER TO MR ERNEST CHAPMAN On another plaque it states: THIS ORGAN WAS A WEDDING PRESENT TO ERN AND BERYL CHAPMAN AND WAS DONATED TO MONT DE LANCEY IN THE YEAR 1994 BY MAVIS, BOB, LES AND ALBERT CHAPMAN The organ was a present from Mr Ernest Chapman and his bride on the occasion of their wedding on October 26th 1927. The organ was made in Meriden Connecticut USA by Wilcox and White in 1885. A date inside the organ indicates that it was last tuned June 16th 1900. A highly decorated, delicate ornate carved wooden pump organ with a round mirror set back into the front panel. It has a sheet music rest or shelf with an opening lid to store sheet music inside the cupboard. There are two side shelves with five knobs on each at the front. It has a keyboard with thirteen stops below. Next to the key stops above the keyboard is gold lettering with 'Wilcox & White Meriden. Connecticut. USA.There are two brass patterned pump foot pedals below: the left one has 'WILCOX' stamped on it, the right pedal has '& WHITE' stamped on it and the metal is damaged from use. There are two carved levers underneath the keyboard: the left one has a sticker saying "Grand Organ", the right one's sticker says, "Knee Swell". There is no stool.The brass covered left foot pump pedal has 'WHITE' stamped on it, the right pedal has '......' stamped on it. There are two carved levers underneath the keyboard: the left one has a sticker saying 'Grand Organ', the right one's sticker says, 'Knee Swell'. The manufacturer : WILCOX AND WHITE is printed in gold letters on ......The thirteen 'stops' all have different musical terms printed in a sticker. e.g...............parlour organs, cabinet organs, harmoniums, pump organs -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Functional object - Safe, W. Marr, Circa 1855
This strong, heavy bank safe was made by W. Marr in London. It was formerly owned by the ANZ Bank in Portland, Victoria. Portland’s ANZ Bank was originally a branch of the Bank of Australasia, which first came to Australia in 1835, opening in Sydney. Portland’s Bank of Australasia began in a bluestone building built on the north corner of Julia and Bentinck Streets by stonemason William Robb in 1855, around the time of Australia’s Gold Rush. Eventually, in 1951, the Bank of Australasia merged with the Union Bank to become the Australia & New Zealand Bank, known as the ANZ. Portland’s branch of the Bank of Australasia then moved into the old Union Bank building at 44 Percy Streets; both bank buildings were built around the same. The maker of this safe, W. (William) Marr, obtained a patent in 1834 for what is believed to be the first fire-retarding patent, building this into the lining of strong boxes. Others made further design improvements such as hardening the metal plates used to make the boxes. In about 1840 Thomas Milner, a Sheffield tinsmith, made the earliest safes that could safely protect their contents from a surrounding fire. This was achieved by including tubes of a substance between the inner and outer walls of the safe that would react to the heat and the contents would put the fire out. In 1851 an Exhibition at London’s Crystal Palace included fire-proof safes from different vendors. William Marr was listed under Fireproof Box Makers in the 1842 London Trades Directory, at 33 Broad Street, and 52 Cheapside. William Marr & Son were appointed to supply Her Majesty’s National Debt Office and other departments in 1860, with the address 9 Walbrook, Vulcan Safe Works, Skin Yard, Bankside, Southwark, London. 1n 1870 the address for William Marr listed under Safe Makers and Agents in the London Trades Directory was 67 Cannon Street. The manufacturer, W Marr, is significant as an inventor of a way to make a strong box fireproof, then patented his secure safe. This invention indicates that security of money was of great importance in the mid-1800s as it continues to be today. The secure safe would have given much comfort to those with investments and savings, as well as to the bank itself, the custodian of other people's money. This safe was made in London and exported to colonial Australia, giving significance to the safe as an item that was high in the list of the needs of the early Australians and their businesses. The safe has local historical significance as it was used by the original Bank of Australasia in Portland, which was built in 1855 and went on to become the ANZ Bank, still in operation today. The bank was an integral part of the establishment and growth of commerce in Colonial Victoria.Safe; heavy metal bank safe, painted green. Double doors each have top and bottom external hinges, and two front panels; the top panels are arched. The thick doors have five sliding locks. Inside is a fixed metal compartment with a locked sliding metal drawer, and several fitted shelves plus some temporary removable shelving. Both doors have a decorative brass knob near the centre opening. Left door has an oval artificial keyhole and a space where another fitting has been attached. The right door has a second brass knob and an oval keyhole. The top panels of the left door has an oval plaque with an inscription; the right door has evidence that there was an oval attachment. Made by W. Marr, London.Text embossed on plaque: "W. MARR / PATENTEE & MANUFACTURER / 52 / /CHEAPSIDE / LONDON" flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, maritime museum, great ocean road, shipwreck artefact, safe, bank safe, vault, security, finances, anz bank, portland bank, w marr, william w marr, financial institution, savings, gold exchange, loans, investments, safety, safe maker, lock maker, iron box, strong-room -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Furniture - Cabinet, Early 20th century
This cabinet would have been made in the early 20th century for as office or home office furniture. It's neat brass lock and key gives the contents some basic security but could be easily tampered with. At some stage there were two additional divisions in the top row of pigeon holes, which would make fifteen compartments of equal size available. A cabinet such as this could be used to classify or sort items, for example, mail for different people, or categories of business papers such as bills, orders, receipts, pay book, bank book and so on.This cabinet represents the type of furniture available for offices and businesses in the early 20th century. It shows the hardware in use and the design detail such as the raised edges around the top of the cabinet.Cabinet or cupboard, stained dark brown and lacquered. Secure office storage with a lock and a key. Hinged, lift-up front panel door folds back against the lid. The inside is divided into thirteen compartments or pigeon holes. Inscribed in black painted script writing underneath. Once the property of Mrs Cambell.Hand-painted on the base in black script writing "Mrs Cambell"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, cabinet, cupboard, shelves, pigeon holes, office cabinet, office furniture, mail sorting cabinet, mail sorting shelves, vintage office furniture, antique office furniture, office administration, mail sorting, small business furniture -
Royal District Nursing Service (now known as Bolton Clarke)
Photograph - Photograph, colour, 02.1991
Mr. Evans is CEO of Royal District Nursing Service (RDNS), and he is sitting in his office at RDNS Headquarters, 452 St. Kilda Road, Melbourne.Mr. Evans was CEO of Royal District Nursing Service for many years and introduced computers to improve the Payroll system and the Records Department. In his years at RDNS the Service expanded into many suburbs with Centres being built, more cars required, more nurses employed and a rise in patient numbers. He was CEO when RDNS underwent its initial 'Accreditation for 3 years' in 1985. A coloured photograph of Mr. Frank Evans, who has receding dark hair, and is wearing a pale blue long sleeve shirt and a brown patterned tie. He is looking at the camera as he sits on a grey chair behind his desk, and has a pen in his right hand poised over a white sheet of paper. Other sheets of white papers cover the desk., To the left rear is a small two shelf table, with papers and a blue cellotape dispenser on the top shelf, and books and cards on the bottom shelf. On the wall above it, part of a large map can be seen. Behind Mr. Evans, and to the right of the table, is a grey multi draw cabinet with some draws partly open, and one fully open with white papers in it. Multi coloured books and folders stand vertically on the top of it, and to there right are two rows of stacked open shelving with files and papers in the individual shelves. royal district nursing service, rdns, rdns ceo, mr frank evans -
Bendigo Historical Society Inc.
Administrative record - Stock Book
The item is a hard cover book recording stock in 1889 for T.J. Connolly, Ironmongers, Sandhurst. Each handwritten page lists goods by location, quantity, description, prices with price total at the bottom of each page. Locations include shelves, floor, yard, factory, paint shop. Pages 1 to 175 have been numbered by hand. An alphabetical index list types of stock from pages 158 to 164. Pages from number 165 to the end of the book are blank. The hard cover is patterned and shows some wearing at the corners and front and large patches of wear on the back. The spine edge is red with considerable wear at the top and bottom. The front cover has a paper rectangle stuck to the middle, with an ornate printed border and "Stock 1889" handwritten inside the border. The pages are bound together with string. This item is part of the Margaret Roberts Collection.The front cover has a paper rectangle stuck to the middle, with an ornate printed border and "Stock 1889" handwritten inside the border. A list of numbers is handwritten inside the back cover. The first six numbers are crossed out. Ticks and crosses sit beside some of the numbers.margaret roberts collection, ironmongers, forest street, bendigo businesses -
Parks Victoria - Cape Nelson Lightstation
Furniture - Cabinet
The two‐door cabinet with a bench top is a simply made nineteenth century utilitarian cupboard. It is similar in style to cupboards that were built into spaces either side of fireplaces in keepers’ quarters. All have two doors simply framed around recessed central panels, which are sometimes bevelled. They are opened with a key, or by a basic knob made of metal or turned wood. Most also are made from a light‐coloured wood, which in this case is possibly Huon pine. Some are painted, others show evidence of paint which has since been removed in an effort to restore the surface, and a few retain their original wood finish. This cabinet, which has plain recessed unbevelled panels, has one internal shelf and stands on the floor without a plinth base. The bench top has basic squared edges, and a low backing with curved ends extends around one side. These features suggest the cabinet was fixed and originally built into a corner. The Cape Nelson CMP identified a similar but slightly different cabinet in one of the assistant keepers’ quarters which is shown with shelves added to the top. Other similar two‐door, benchtop cupboards that were probably built‐in include those at Cape Otway and Cape Schanck , which have since been moved out of the residences. Built‐in cabinets were standard fittings in lightkeeper quarters as illustrated by the Point Hicks Lightstation CMP, which shows a built cupboard beside a fireplace. The Cape Nelson cabinet, an original domestic furnishing provided by the Public Works Department, has first level contributory significance for its historic values and provenance to the lightstation.Two‐door cabinet with a bench top. The doors are simply framed around recessed central panels.Light coloured wood. -
Coal Creek Community Park & Museum
Bookcase and books
8724.1 - Ornate wooden bookcase with six pigeon holes, a cabinet to store books, either side of the cabinet are four small rounded shelves, there are also cupboards below the pigeon holes and also two larger shelves either side of a metal decorative art piece. 8724.2 - Red leather bound book. 8724.3 - Green leather bound book. 8724.4 - Green leather bound book. 8724.5 - Green leather bound book. 8724.6 - Green leather bound book. 8724.7 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXXIII 8724.8 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXXII 8724.9 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXXIV MAPS 8724.10 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXXV INDEX 8724.11 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL I 8724.12 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL II 8724.13 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL III 8724.14 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL IV 8724.15 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL V 8725.16 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL VI 8725.17 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL VII 8724.18 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL VIII 8724.19 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL IX 8724.20 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL X 8724.21 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XI 8724.22 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XII 8724.23 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XIII 8724.24 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XIV 8724.25 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XV 8724.26 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XVI 8724.27 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XVII 8724.28 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XVIII 8724.29 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XIX 8724.30 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XX 8724.31 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXI 8724.32 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXII 8724.33 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXIII 8724.34 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXIV 8724.35 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXV 8724.36 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXVI 8724.37 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXVII 8724.38 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXVIII 8724.39 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXIX 8724.40 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXX 8724.41 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXXI8724.7 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXXIII 8724.8 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXXII 8724.9 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXXIV MAPS 8724.10 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXXV INDEX 8724.11 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL I 8724.12 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL II 8724.13 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL III 8724.14 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL IV 8724.15 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL V 8724.16 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL VI 8724.17 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL VII 8724.18 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL VIII 8724.19 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL IX 8724.20 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL X 8724.21 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XI 8724.22 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XII 8724.23 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XIII 8724.24 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XIV 8724.25 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XV 8724.26 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XVI 8724.27 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XVII 8724.28 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XVIII 8724.29 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XIX 8724.30 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XX 8724.31 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXI 8724.32 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXII 8724.33 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXIII 8724.34 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXIV 8724.35 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXV 8724.36 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXVI 8724.37 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXVII 8724.38 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXVIII 8724.39 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXIX 8724.40 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXX 8724.41 - Encyclopaedia Britannica VOL XXXI -
Mission to Seafarers Victoria
Print - Engraving, Sailors' Rest, Williamstown, 31 October 1878
The Sailors' Rest, located in Ann Street, Williamstown opened on 24 May 1878. An article dating 25 May 1878, in the Williamstown Chronicle, describes the interior of the renovated Wesleyan chuch as depicted on the print: "Inside the building the carpenters and painters have been busily engaged. It has been painted throughout, the lower part of the walls be ing stained blue. There is a form all round the building with tables up the sides, and a number of small round tables are scattered about the roomi. In the centre is a splendid wire stand for pot plants, of which there is a grand display. Pictures adorn, the walls; singing birds warble their sweet strains ; and the silent gold fish of which there are several globes add to the beauty of the display. At the east end of the room is the bar, occupying one corner, while in the other are the shelves which accommodate the books of the Library, while last evening across the end wall was in large illuminated letters-'" The earth is the Lord's and the fulness thereof." On the platform are a piano and harmonium. The room is very presentable whether in day light or illuminated vith gas." Eva Carmichael, one of the two survivors of the Loch Art tragedy, visited here on 19 July 1878. She had stayed with Mr and Mrs Gibson and travelled from Camperdown to Melbourne (15 July 1878) to sail back to Ireland. Article in the Leader, 20 July 1878, Page 19: "The Saitors' Rest at Williamstown was yesterday visited by Miss Carmichael, Mr. T. Pearce and Mr. and Mrs. Gibson. The objects of the institution were explained to them, and after a brief stay they complimented the committee on their arrangement. The attendance has ho largely increased that the receipts now average £80 per month. The print is a rare insight of the Sailors' Rest in Williamstown, depicitng the room filled with plants, birds in cages, the seamen enjoying some board games, and coffee.Illustration depicting the interios of the Williamstown Sailors' Rest in 1878 with decoration (plants, paintings, birds in cages), and sailors at tables busy playing chess, talking, having a drink.sailors' rest, williamstown, 1878, plants, books, library, tables, sailors, games, chess, coffee, seamen, sir william stawell, hugh ronald reid -
Royal District Nursing Service (now known as Bolton Clarke)
Photograph - Digital image, Barry Sutton, c.1930
In 1930 the Society were pioneers in opening an Ante-Natal Clinic at the Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS) After-Care Home, setting a high standard with equipment, keeping records and providing leaflets with instructions in how to keep healthy during pregnancy, what complications to look for, and what to do when labour commenced. This image was taken in the Ante-Natal Clinic and shows some of the equipment used at that time and the uniforms worn by Trained nurses (Sisters) in the 1930s. Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS) was founded in 1885 and only nurses who had trained in a Hospital Training School and were fully qualified were employed by the Society. It commenced with one Trained nurse (Nurse), and another employed six months later; both walking amid the slums of inner Melbourne administering nursing care to the sick poor. The Society decided to commence a Midwifery Service and Nurse Fowler, who had previously worked for the Society, was re-employed as their first Trained Midwife. She began home births in August 1893 giving some Ante Natal care, taking midwifery bundles and providing clothes for the babe and mother as needed. Following birth, she gave Post-natal care to the mother and babe twice a day for three days and then daily for a week, and longer if required. She resigned after twelve months and Nurse Wilkie was appointed to the position. As well as walking, the Nurses used Public transport in the limited areas it ran, though a taxi was used by the Nurses and Midwife in emergencies and at night. As the Society expanded it rented premises until it was able to purchase it's own Nurses Home at 39 Victoria Parade, Collingwood in 1914. The Society were pioneers in recognizing the need for premises where patients too ill to be in their own home, but not ill enough to go to hospital, was needed. Land was procured next to No. 39, and the Society built the After-Care Home at 45 Victoria Parade, for these patients, and for patients from Hospitals. It was opened in July 1926 and the name of the Society then became ‘Melbourne District Nursing Society and After-Care Home’ (‘Hospital’ from 1934) The Ante-Natal Clinic at the Melbourne District Nursing Society After-Care Home was opened on the 23rd of September 1930 and MDNS Midwifery patients were encouraged to attend. Prior to the opening of the clinic Ante-natal care was not considered important, but within a short time 100 percent of MDNS Midwifery patients were attending. During 1934 the Women’s Welfare Clinic, including at the time a very controversial Family Planning Clinic, the first of its kind in Australia, was opened to support women at risk following multiple and difficult pregnancies. The Clinic gave advice on birth-control and was attended by their own patients at first, but then accepted patients from Melbourne public hospitals until their own clinics were opened.Digital image showing a Doctor and three Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS) Sisters attending a patient in the Ante-Natal Clinic at the After Care Hospital. In the forefront is a set of scales standing on the floor, behind which is the lady lying on a wooden framed bed with the base slightly raised at the top end supporting a white pillow and the lady's head. The lady has short dark hair and her frock can be seen to her waist; the rest of her body is covered by a white sheet and dark coloured blanket. Behind her and to the right of the image, are two Sisters wearing dark coloured long sleeved uniforms which have a belt and white collar; they are both wearing white veils over their short dart hair. To their left is a Doctor who has short dart wavy hair and is looking down at the lady. He is wearing a long white gown and has a stethoscope in his ears with the other end held in his right hand. To his left is another Sister who is wearing a white veil over her dark curled hair, and is wearing a long white gown. In the rear between the Doctor and Sister a hand basin can be seen. On the far left of the picture a trolley with two cloth covered shelves can be seen; a basin and squat bottle sits on the top shelf and kidney dish on the lower one. Behind this, part of a window can be seen.after- care hospital, 45 victoria parade collingwood, melbourne district nursing society (1885-1957), ante-natal clinic, after-care home, mdns midwifery, rdns, royal district nursing service -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate, Johnson Bros
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate, Alfred Meakin
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, J & G Meakin, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic