This is the site of the first roadside art gallery - Hassall's Roadside Gallery created by the artist son of an artist. Ian Hassall was the son of John Hassall who was among and may have been the first of the British poster artists. The gallery opened Saturday July 14, 1962 at 1215 Main road, Eltham by the director of the National Gallery of Victoria, Eric Westbrook. Situated on the left hand side of the main road, about a mile and a half beyond Eltham, towards Research, near Coleman's Corner at the intersection of Wattletree Road. The property has remnants of a stone quarry, probably for the purpose of gaining stone for local road making. Paintings were hung on screens and removed at night for safety. Large pedestals displayed sculpture and jewellery. All types of hand made art work was displayed. Access to the exhibition and grounds was slightly lower than the level of the road. They were encircled by a narrow little moat formed by a small tributary of the Diamond Creek accessed by a small well built stone bridge built by Ian Hassall with local stone. The Gallery later became known as Hassall's Gallery Bazaar antiques, furniture, curios bought and sold. It operated through to the early 1990s. The property has been derelict and neglected for some years. At one stage a shipping container sat near the entrance. This series of ten photographs illustrate the extent of the vegetation which has taken over the land, evidence of rubbish and a possible fire. In July 2017, planning permission was sought from the Shire of Nillumbik for buildings and works to construct a dwelling and associated vegetation removal. (source planningalerts.org.au)Born Digitaleltham, main road, hassall's gallery bazaar

This is the site of the first roadside art gallery - Hassall's Roadside Gallery created by the artist son of an artist. Ian Hassall was the son of John Hassall who was among and may have been the first of the British poster artists. The gallery opened Saturday July 14, 1962 at 1215 Main road, Eltham by the director of the National Gallery of Victoria, Eric Westbrook. Situated on the left hand side of the main road, about a mile and a half beyond Eltham, towards Research, near Coleman's Corner at the intersection of Wattletree Road. The property has remnants of a stone quarry, probably for the purpose of gaining stone for local road making. Paintings were hung on screens and removed at night for safety. Large pedestals displayed sculpture and jewellery. All types of hand made art work was displayed. Access to the exhibition and grounds was slightly lower than the level of the road. They were encircled by a narrow little moat formed by a small tributary of the Diamond Creek accessed by a small well built stone bridge built by Ian Hassall with local stone. The Gallery later became known as Hassall's Gallery Bazaar antiques, furniture, curios bought and sold. It operated through to the early 1990s. The property has been derelict and neglected for some years. At one stage a shipping container sat near the entrance. This series of ten photographs illustrate the extent of the vegetation which has taken over the land, evidence of rubbish and a possible fire. In July 2017, planning permission was sought from the Shire of Nillumbik for buildings and works to construct a dwelling and associated vegetation removal. (source planningalerts.org.au)Born Digitaleltham, main road, hassall's gallery bazaar

This is the site of the first roadside art gallery - Hassall's Roadside Gallery created by the artist son of an artist. Ian Hassall was the son of John Hassall who was among and may have been the first of the British poster artists. The gallery opened Saturday July 14, 1962 at 1215 Main road, Eltham by the director of the National Gallery of Victoria, Eric Westbrook. Situated on the left hand side of the main road, about a mile and a half beyond Eltham, towards Research, near Coleman's Corner at the intersection of Wattletree Road. The property has remnants of a stone quarry, probably for the purpose of gaining stone for local road making. Paintings were hung on screens and removed at night for safety. Large pedestals displayed sculpture and jewellery. All types of hand made art work was displayed. Access to the exhibition and grounds was slightly lower than the level of the road. They were encircled by a narrow little moat formed by a small tributary of the Diamond Creek accessed by a small well built stone bridge built by Ian Hassall with local stone. The Gallery later became known as Hassall's Gallery Bazaar antiques, furniture, curios bought and sold. It operated through to the early 1990s. The property has been derelict and neglected for some years. At one stage a shipping container sat near the entrance. This series of ten photographs illustrate the extent of the vegetation which has taken over the land, evidence of rubbish and a possible fire. In July 2017, planning permission was sought from the Shire of Nillumbik for buildings and works to construct a dwelling and associated vegetation removal. (source planningalerts.org.au)Born Digitaleltham, main road, hassall's gallery bazaar

This is the site of the first roadside art gallery - Hassall's Roadside Gallery created by the artist son of an artist. Ian Hassall was the son of John Hassall who was among and may have been the first of the British poster artists. The gallery opened Saturday July 14, 1962 at 1215 Main road, Eltham by the director of the National Gallery of Victoria, Eric Westbrook. Situated on the left hand side of the main road, about a mile and a half beyond Eltham, towards Research, near Coleman's Corner at the intersection of Wattletree Road. The property has remnants of a stone quarry, probably for the purpose of gaining stone for local road making. Paintings were hung on screens and removed at night for safety. Large pedestals displayed sculpture and jewellery. All types of hand made art work was displayed. Access to the exhibition and grounds was slightly lower than the level of the road. They were encircled by a narrow little moat formed by a small tributary of the Diamond Creek accessed by a small well built stone bridge built by Ian Hassall with local stone. The Gallery later became known as Hassall's Gallery Bazaar antiques, furniture, curios bought and sold. It operated through to the early 1990s. The property has been derelict and neglected for some years. At one stage a shipping container sat near the entrance. This series of ten photographs illustrate the extent of the vegetation which has taken over the land, evidence of rubbish and a possible fire. In July 2017, planning permission was sought from the Shire of Nillumbik for buildings and works to construct a dwelling and associated vegetation removal. (source planningalerts.org.au)Born Digitaleltham, main road, hassall's gallery bazaar

This is the site of the first roadside art gallery - Hassall's Roadside Gallery created by the artist son of an artist. Ian Hassall was the son of John Hassall who was among and may have been the first of the British poster artists. The gallery opened Saturday July 14, 1962 at 1215 Main road, Eltham by the director of the National Gallery of Victoria, Eric Westbrook. Situated on the left hand side of the main road, about a mile and a half beyond Eltham, towards Research, near Coleman's Corner at the intersection of Wattletree Road. The property has remnants of a stone quarry, probably for the purpose of gaining stone for local road making. Paintings were hung on screens and removed at night for safety. Large pedestals displayed sculpture and jewellery. All types of hand made art work was displayed. Access to the exhibition and grounds was slightly lower than the level of the road. They were encircled by a narrow little moat formed by a small tributary of the Diamond Creek accessed by a small well built stone bridge built by Ian Hassall with local stone. The Gallery later became known as Hassall's Gallery Bazaar antiques, furniture, curios bought and sold. It operated through to the early 1990s. The property has been derelict and neglected for some years. At one stage a shipping container sat near the entrance. This series of ten photographs illustrate the extent of the vegetation which has taken over the land, evidence of rubbish and a possible fire. In July 2017, planning permission was sought from the Shire of Nillumbik for buildings and works to construct a dwelling and associated vegetation removal. (source planningalerts.org.au)Born Digitaleltham, main road, hassall's gallery bazaar

This is the site of the first roadside art gallery - Hassall's Roadside Gallery created by the artist son of an artist. Ian Hassall was the son of John Hassall who was among and may have been the first of the British poster artists. The gallery opened Saturday July 14, 1962 at 1215 Main road, Eltham by the director of the National Gallery of Victoria, Eric Westbrook. Situated on the left hand side of the main road, about a mile and a half beyond Eltham, towards Research, near Coleman's Corner at the intersection of Wattletree Road. The property has remnants of a stone quarry, probably for the purpose of gaining stone for local road making. Paintings were hung on screens and removed at night for safety. Large pedestals displayed sculpture and jewellery. All types of hand made art work was displayed. Access to the exhibition and grounds was slightly lower than the level of the road. They were encircled by a narrow little moat formed by a small tributary of the Diamond Creek accessed by a small well built stone bridge built by Ian Hassall with local stone. The Gallery later became known as Hassall's Gallery Bazaar antiques, furniture, curios bought and sold. It operated through to the early 1990s. The property has been derelict and neglected for some years. At one stage a shipping container sat near the entrance. This series of ten photographs illustrate the extent of the vegetation which has taken over the land, evidence of rubbish and a possible fire. In July 2017, planning permission was sought from the Shire of Nillumbik for buildings and works to construct a dwelling and associated vegetation removal. (source planningalerts.org.au)Born Digitaleltham, main road, hassall's gallery bazaar

This is the site of the first roadside art gallery - Hassall's Roadside Gallery created by the artist son of an artist. Ian Hassall was the son of John Hassall who was among and may have been the first of the British poster artists. The gallery opened Saturday July 14, 1962 at 1215 Main road, Eltham by the director of the National Gallery of Victoria, Eric Westbrook. Situated on the left hand side of the main road, about a mile and a half beyond Eltham, towards Research, near Coleman's Corner at the intersection of Wattletree Road. The property has remnants of a stone quarry, probably for the purpose of gaining stone for local road making. Paintings were hung on screens and removed at night for safety. Large pedestals displayed sculpture and jewellery. All types of hand made art work was displayed. Access to the exhibition and grounds was slightly lower than the level of the road. They were encircled by a narrow little moat formed by a small tributary of the Diamond Creek accessed by a small well built stone bridge built by Ian Hassall with local stone. The Gallery later became known as Hassall's Gallery Bazaar antiques, furniture, curios bought and sold. It operated through to the early 1990s. The property has been derelict and neglected for some years. At one stage a shipping container sat near the entrance. This series of ten photographs illustrate the extent of the vegetation which has taken over the land, evidence of rubbish and a possible fire. In July 2017, planning permission was sought from the Shire of Nillumbik for buildings and works to construct a dwelling and associated vegetation removal. (source planningalerts.org.au)Born Digitaleltham, main road, hassall's gallery bazaar

This photograph is of Christina Giles, who died in Wangoom, Warrnambool, in 1899 at 7 years, 5 months and 4 days old and is one of many 19th century items of furniture, linen and crockery donated to Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village by, Vera and Aurelin Giles. The items are associated with Warrnambool and the Giles Family history. Items donated by the family have come to be known as the “Giles Collection”. Many items in the Lighthouse Keeper’s Cottage were donated by Vera and Aurelin Giles and mostly came from the home of Vera’s parents-in-law, Henry Giles and his wife Mary Jane (nee Freckleton) who married in 1880 and whose photos are on display in the parlour. Henry was born at Tower Hill in 1858, and was a labourer on the construction of the Warrnambool Breakwater before leaving in 1895 for around seven years to build bridges in NSW. Mary Jane was born in 1860 at Cooramook and she attended Mailor’s Flat State School and where she eventually was to become a student teacher. After which she became a governess at “Injemiara” where her grandfather, Francis Freckleton, had once owned land. Henry and Mary’s family consisted of six, some of the children were born at Mailor’s Flat and later some children at Wangoom. They lived with their parents at Wangoom and Purnim west, and this is where Henry died in 1933 and Mary Jane in 1940. Jordan, Warrnambool refers to Joseph Jordan who operated a photographic studio in Warrnambool from the late 1880s. His work was prevelent in Victoria's Western District of Victoria.This photograph of Christina Giles is of social significance at a local level, because it not only illustrates the level of material support the Warrnambool community gave to Flagstaff Hill during it’s establishment. But the Giles collection also gives us today a snapshot into what domestic life was like in early colonial times prior to Federation and the high mortality rates amongst children during the early years of colonial settlement. The photograph is also significant for is association with renowned Western District photographer, Joseph Jordan.Photograph of Christina Giles standing on chair in a decorative carved wood frame with floral design in abstract shape. Photo by Jordan of Warrnambool. Christina Giles died in Warrnambool in 1899 at 7 years, 5 months, 4 days of age. It is part of the Giles Family Collection. "Jordan Warrnambool" ( Photographers) flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, christina giles, giles collection, giles family, giles history, henry and mary giles, henry giles, tower hill, cooramook, warrnambool breakwater, mailor’s flat, wangoom, 19th century personal effects, joseph jordan, jordan photography

The pair of photographs of Mr Henry and Mrs Mary Jane Giles was made by the International Art Company, the price was 30 shillings and the choice of frame was Rosewood. It is part of the Giles Collection, which also includes a photograph of the couple's daughter Christina Giles, who died in 1899 aged seven years. There are many 19th century items of furniture, linen and crockery donated to Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village by, Vera and Aurelin Giles. The items are associated with Warrnambool and the Giles Family history. Items donated by the family have come to be known as the “Giles Collection”. Many items in the Lighthouse Keeper’s Cottage were donated by Vera and Aurelin Giles and mostly came from the home of Vera’s parents-in-law, Henry Giles and his wife Mary Jane (nee Freckleton) who married in 1880 and whose photos are on display in the parlour. Henry was born at Tower Hill in 1858, and was a labourer on the construction of the Warrnambool Breakwater before leaving in 1895 for around seven years to build bridges in NSW. Mary Jane was born in 1860 at Cooramook and she attended Mailor’s Flat State School and where she eventually was to become a student teacher. After which she became a governess at “Injemiara” where her grandfather, Francis Freckleton, had once owned land. Henry and Mary’s family consisted of six, some of the children were born at Mailor’s Flat and later some children at Wangoom. They lived with their parents at Wangoom and Purnim west, and this is where Henry died in 1933 and Mary Jane in 1940.This photograph is locally significant due to its association with a local pioneering family. The Giles family collection is of social significance at a local level, because it not only illustrates the level of material support the Warrnambool community gave to Flagstaff Hill during it’s establishment. But the Giles collection also gives us today a snapshot into what domestic life was like in early colonial times prior to Federation. The photograph itself is of added significance as we can see the faces of the family whose lives the collection represents . Portrait photograph mounted in an oval rosewood frame, one of a pair. This photograph is Mary Jane Giles, dressed formally showing chest to head. Her hair is tied back hair and she has a neck band. The couple in the pair of photographs is Mr and Mrs Giles of Woodford, Victoria. The photographic studio was the International Art Company. It is part of the Giles Collection.Inscription on back of frame "International Art Company 30/-" "Rosewood"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, photograph late 1800s, oval wooden frame, portrait, mrs mary jane giles of woodford victoria, giles collection, henry giles, tower hill, cooramook, warrnambool breakwater, mailor’s flat, wangoom, 19th century personal effects, mary giles, christine giles

The design of this pair (RN 758 & 759) is based on Thonet’s No. 18 chair, which was originally produced in 1876 by Thonet, and is still one of the best-selling designs for café and restaurant owners. It is elegant, sophisticated and durable. The label notes the design as “AUS MASSIV GEBOGENEM HOLZE vorm” which translates to “solid curved sandals shape”, a good description for the back of the chair. The chairs have marks, paper labels and symbols on them that show that the maker was Harnisch & Co., Neuschler (also called Banská Bystrica) Furniture Factory in Neuschol (Beszterczebanya), Hungary, privileged makers for the Imperial and Royal Austrian-Hungarian Empire 1867 – 1918. Bentwood chairs are made by a process of wetting wood in water, bending it into curved shapes, then allowing it to dry so that the shape becomes permanent. This process originated by Michael Thonet, who had been given the right to bend wood into desired curves by the Austrian Courts in 1842. In 1856 he was granted a 13 year patent to manufacture chairs and table legs of bent wood treated by steam or boiling water. In 1859 his company Gebruder Thonet produced his original design. Thonet’s early designs also featured hand carved or laminated wooden seats. His Model No. 14 produced in the 1850’s, was his most popular design. After Michael’s death in 1871 the family went on designing and producing chairs. The No. 18 chair was produced in 1876, one of a group of chars with back inserts consisting of curves and loops of bentwood. These bentwood chairs are believed to be associated with the either the original Warrnambool Town Hall or the Toc H Group in Warrnambool. The Warrnambool Town Hall played a significant role in the both the local government and the social events of local and district areas. It was a place for Council meetings, community events and entertainment, theatrical and musical.Chair, bentwood, 'French Bistro Chair' with a floral pattern carved in seat. Backrest has inverted U shape inside that extends to the seat. Supports on either side of backrest's base join to back of seat. Legs have a wooded bracing ring. Marks are embossed into rim under seat. Paper label, cream with black print, on rim; Right side of label has the symbol of Heraldic Shield. Text on label. Made by NEUSOHLER FABRIK FUR MOBEL, AUS MASSIV GEBOGENEM HOLZE, vorm. HARNISCH & Co, NEUSOHL (BESZTERCaZEBANYA) UNGARN ' Hand written under seat "T H" in black paint, "T H " in white chalk.Marks; pressed into rim under seat is "3", and "Crown [over] (N)", Paper label, cream with black print, on rim; Left side has Mark “N inside circle under crown”. Right side has symbol of Heraldic Shield. Text on label “Trade – K.u.K.- Mark / NEUSOHLER FABRIK FUR MOBEL/ AUS MASSIV GEBOGENEM HOLZE, vorm. HARNISCH&Co / NEUSOHL (BESZTERCaZEBANYA) UNGARN ' Hand written under seat "T H" in black paint, "T H " in white chalk. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, bentwood chair, café chair, restaurant chair, thonet design chair, neusohler fabrik fur nobel, k.u.k. approved manufacturer, hungry, harnisch & co, k.u.k., public hall chair, toc h

The design of this pair (RN 758 & 759) is based on Thonet’s No. 18 chair, which was originally produced in 1876 by Thonet, and is still one of the best-selling designs for café and restaurant owners. It is elegant, sophisticated and durable. The label notes the design as “AUS MASSIV GEBOGENEM HOLZE vorm” which translates to “solid curved sandals shape”, a good description for the back of the chair. The chairs have marks, paper labels and symbols on them that show that the maker was Harnisch & Co., Neuschler (also called Banská Bystrica) Furniture Factory in Neuschol (Beszterczebanya), Hungary, privileged makers for the Imperial and Royal Austrian-Hungarian Empire 1867 – 1918. Bentwood chairs are made by a process of wetting wood in water, bending it into curved shapes, then allowing it to dry so that the shape becomes permanent. This process originated by Michael Thonet, who had been given the right to bend wood into desired curves by the Austrian Courts in 1842. In 1856 he was granted a 13 year patent to manufacture chairs and table legs of bent wood treated by steam or boiling water. In 1859 his company Gebruder Thonet produced his original design. Thonet’s early designs also featured hand carved or laminated wooden seats. His Model No. 14 produced in the 1850’s, was his most popular design. After Michael’s death in 1871 the family went on designing and producing chairs. The No. 18 chair was produced in 1876, one of a group of chars with back inserts consisting of curves and loops of bentwood. The popularity of the Bentwood chair, even now, is due to its versatility and timeless quality. Its style, whether varnished or painted, suits any room in the house. The lightweight chairs are also popular for café and restaurant seating, as well as for public gatherings. They can be easily moved around and grouped in a variety of ways to suit any occasion.Chair, bentwood, 'French Bistro Chair' with pattern carved in seat. Backrest has inverted U shape inside that extends to the seat. Supports on eitherside of backrest's base join to back of seat. Legs have a wooded bracing ring. Marks; pressed into rim under seat. Paper label, cream with black print, on rim. Right side of label has symbol of Heraldic Shield. Text on label. Made by Harnisch & Co.Marks; pressed into rim under seat is "3" and "4", and "Crown [over] N", Paper label, cream with black print, on rim; Left side has Mark “N inside circle under crown”. Right side has symbol of Heraldic Shield. Text on label “Trade – K.u.K.- Mark / NEUSOHLER FABRIK FUR MOBEL/ AUS MASSIV GEBOGENEM HOLZE, vorm. HARNISCH & Co / NEUSOHL (BESZTERCaZEBANYA) UNGARN ' Hand written under seat "T H" in black paint, "T H " in white chalk. flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, bentwood chair, café chair, restaurant chair, meeting hall chair, thonet design chair, harnisch & co, k.u.k., neusohler fabrik fur nobel, approved manufacturer, neusohl (besztercazebanya) ungarn

This chest came from County Cavan, North Ireland, with Jane Fleming, when she migrated to Australia arriving at Port Fairy in approximately 1863. Jane Flemming was about 6 or 7 years old at the time and later was to become the mother of Mary Jane Giles (nee Flemming). This chest is one of many 19th century items of furniture, linen and crockery donated to Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village by, Vera and Aurelin Giles. The items are associated with Warrnambool and the Giles Family history. Items donated by the family have come to be known as the “Giles Collection”. Many items in the Lighthouse Keeper’s Cottage were donated by Vera and Aurelin Giles and mostly came from the home of Vera’s parents-in-law, Henry Giles and his wife Mary Jane (nee Freckleton) who married in 1880 and whose photos are on display in the parlour. Henry was born at Tower Hill in 1858, and was a labourer on the construction of the Warrnambool Breakwater before leaving in 1895 for around seven years to build bridges in NSW. Mary Jane was born in 1860 at Cooramook and she attended Mailor’s Flat State School and where she eventually was to become a student teacher. After which she became a governess at “Injemiara” where her grandfather, Francis Freckleton, had once owned land. Henry and Mary’s family consisted of six, some of the children were born at Mailor’s Flat and later some children at Wangoom. They lived with their parents at Wangoom and Purnim west, and this is where Henry died in 1933 and Mary Jane in 1940.The chest is of historical significance as an example of an early piece of furniture brought to Australia by Jane Flemming when she migrated to Australia during the mid 19th century. The chest is associated with the Giles family as Jane later was to become the mother Of Mary Jane Giles (nee Flemming). The Giles family collection is of social and historical significance at a local level, because it not only illustrates the level of material support the Warrnambool community gave to Flagstaff Hill during it’s establishment. But the Giles collection also gives us today a snapshot into what domestic life was like in early colonial times prior to Federation. Linen chest wood construction with hinged lid and lock. Hinges are brass. Painted black. ( Giles Collection)Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, wooden chest, cabin trunk, giles collection, henry giles, tower hill, cooramook, mailor’s flat, wangoom, 19th century household goods, jane flemming, mary jane giles, linen chest

WADE, Ivan Mayor 1969-70, 1970-71 Ivan Wade grew up in Bendigo and Brunswick, one of eight children. After his marriage, he moved with his wife and young family to Kew in 1951. In 1959, he took a year’s sabbatical in 1959 to build a new family home for his wife and four children at 222 Cotham Road, Kew. He worked professionally in the Meat Industry, successfully building a small chain of retail butcher shops, and a meat exporting business. He worked for improvements in the Trade through involvement in the Meat and Allied Trades Federation, of which he was the first State, and then Federal President. He was to be awarded an OBE for his services to the Meat Industry in 1979. Having been a long-time member of Melbourne Lions Club, he helped start Chadstone Lions’ Club as an inaugural tenant of the Chadstone Shopping Centre in 1979. He was also a tireless worker for charity, making his home available for functions raising funds for local groups. His passion for the community led him to stand for Kew Council as a representative of College Ward. As a councillor, he was elected mayor for two terms. During his term of office, new Kew Municipal Offices were constructed in Cotham Road. An active worker for the Kew Elder Citizens Association, he was involved in the establishment of an Opportunity Shop in Walpole Street to raise funds for the development of a new Centre in High Street. The Opportunity Shop was used to train locally unemployed youth skills such as furniture repair. (GW)Silver presentation trowel associated with the opening of significant civic projects in the former City of Kew.Commemorative, inscribed silver-plated presentation trowel given by the City of Kew to the Mayor, Cr Ivan Wade, on the occasion of the laying of the foundation stone of the new Kew Civic Centre on the corner of Cotham Road and Charles Street, now part of Trinity Grammar School. The silver trowel was presented in a black leather case lined with blue velvet. The trowel was to be used a second time in 1982 when Cr Wade and his wife laid the foundation stone of Hamer Court. The trowel was later donated to Kew Historical Society Inc by Gwlad Wade, the wife of Cr Ivan Wade, on 20 August 2000. Front: "Presented to Cr Wade J.P. / Mayor of / the City of Kew / at the laying of the / foundation stone / of the / Kew Civic Centre /20-8-1971." Reverse: This trowel was also used / by / Cr Ivan Wade OBE JP & Mrs Gwlad Wade / at the laying / of the foundation stone / of / "Hamer Court" / Hostel for the Aged / 22nd August 1982"cr ivan wade, hamer court, commemorative trowels, kew civic offices, city of kew 1860-1993

This dress belonged to Mary Ann Henty [nee Lawrence] (1821-81), the wife of Francis Henty (1815-89). Her husband, Francis Henty, was the youngest son of Thomas Henty, who with his family, their retainers and property moved to the Australian colonies between 1829 and 1832. In 1834, Francis’ older brother, Edward, sailed from Launceston in Van Diemen’s Land to what was to become Portland in the western part of Port Phillip District [Victoria]. Francis, together with the first flock of Merino sheep [in Victoria], followed some months later. The first and second generations of the Henty family established vast pastoral properties in the Western part of the Port Phillip District. Francis Henty managed ‘Merino Downs’ near Casterton, while also living in his retirement at ‘Field Place' in Kew. The Henty Collection of nineteenth and twentieth century clothing, including outerwear and underwear, was collected, stored and exhibited over time by female family members descended from Francis and Mary Ann Henty. During the twentieth century, items from the collection were modelled in two fashion parades by various descendants [1937, 1959]. The items in the collection are historically and aesthetically significant, with provenance provided by oral and written tradition within or held by the family. A number of the items in the collection are very rare survivors, and provide researchers with the evidence needed to reconstruct the lives of notable women in the Port Phillip District [later Victoria] during the nineteenth and early twentieth century.A two-piece, moiré silk faille day dress, owned and worn by Mary Ann Henty, aged 59, while resident at Field Place, Kew. The fitted and panelled bodice on the day dress features wide velvet ribbon, hand sewn to form ‘V’ detailing at front and back. The front bodice hook and eye closure is decorated with handmade velvet covered buttons. The high round neckline is trimmed with pleated ivory fine tulle lace. The wide long sleeves of the bodice are also trimmed with velvet ribbon and buttons forming exquisite cuff detailing. The full length skirt and train are tucked into a fitted waistline band. The hemline is hand finished with wide velvet ribbon. A separate attached peplum is worn over the full bustle of the skirt. Measurements (mm): DRESS: Girth - Neck 355.6, Chest 889, Waist 673.1, Cuff 279.4, Hem circumference 4292.6. Vertical - Front neck to hem 1447.8, Front waist to hem 1117.6, Back neck to hem 1765.3, Back waist to hem 1346.2 , Sleeve length 590.55. Horizontal - Neck to sleeve head 196.85, Chest back 469.9, Underarm to underarm 457.2. PEPLUM Girth - Waist 711.2, Hem circumference 1066.8. Vertical - Back waist to hem 406.4.mary ann lawrence, francis henty, fashion -- 1880s, day dresses, women's clothing

These bottles were common in the late 1800's and 1900's. Bottle Nos 1 and 2 were made by Angus & Co, a Sydney company producing ink and gums (glue and clag) from about 1880 to 1920. Their products were sold in stoneware and glass containers in varying sizes. 1. Small pottery bottle referred to as a "Penny Ink" bottle, made by Angus & Co. The small bottle got its name because of the price of 1d. = 1 penny. This bottle is missing. Nos. 3 and 4 The two tall thin Erven Lucas bottles with handles at the top were usually referred to as "Dutch Gins". In fact they actually contained "'Seltzer Spa water' or a form of Quinine Tonic, both supposed to be health drinks. These types of bottles first arrived in Australia with the Gold-seekers from Europe. Early samples are somewhat crudely made. The potter would have formed the bottle with a young apprentice applying the handle, name stamp and the glaze prior to being fired in the kiln. There is evidence of fingerprints from these processes on both samples.A collection of five handmade rare stoneware bottles with a salt glaze: 1. Small pottery bottle referred to as a "Penny Ink" bottle, made by Angus & Co. The small bottle got its name because of the price of 1d. = 1 penny. This is missing. 2. Medium glazed brown pottery bottle with a pouring spout (Angus & Co Ink Commercial). 3. Medium glazed brown pottery bottle with a pouring spout (Bourne Denby). 4. Large glazed brown pottery bottle with a pouring spout (Bourne Denby). Sample is from England probably sold for 2/- or 2/6d. Two shillings or two shillings & sixpence. 5. and 6. Two tall thin brown pottery bottles, one with a broken cork stopper and one without a stopper with Erven Lucas Bols - Het Lootsje Amsterdam stamped at the top of both. They were usually referred to as "Dutch Gins". 6. Green/black bottle is a traditional Dutch Gin with tapering sides, which made it easy to remove from the mold after being blown by hand and the cork top was applied by an apprentice. This sample dates from approximately 1900. Earlier samples are very crude with later samples being machine made with embossing.(This bottle is missing, 13.10.2022). 2. 'Angus & Co Ink Commercial' 3 and 4. 'Bourne Denby' stamped inside an oval lined shape. 5. and 6.Erven Lucas Bols - Het Lootsje Amsterdambeverage bottles, bottles, storage containers, stoneware bottles

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

This is one of four bottles in our Collection that were recovered by a local diver from the quarantine area just inside the Port Phillip Heads. Ships were required to pull into this area to check for diseases etc before they could head up to Melbourne. Quite often they would drink and throw the bottles overboard. Handmade glass bottle, manufactured in 1850's - 1900's. Glass bottles and glass jars are in many households around the world. The first glass bottles were produced in south-east Asia around 100 B.C. and the Roman Empire around 1 AD. America's glass bottle and glass jar industry were born in the early 1600s when settlers in Jamestown built the first glass-melting furnace. The invention of the automatic glass bottle blowing machine in 1880 industrialized the process of making bottles. In 2019, plans were made to re-introduce milk glass bottle deliveries to Auckland in early 2020. The earliest bottles or vessels were made by ancient man. Ingredients were melted to make glass and then clay forms were dipped into the molten liquid. When the glass cooled off, the clay was chipped out of the inside leaving just the hollow glass vessel. This glass was very thin as the fire was not as hot as modern-day furnaces. The blowpipe was invented around 1 B.C. This allowed molten glass to be gathered at the end of the blowpipe and blown into the other end to create a hollow vessel. Eventually, the use of moulding was introduced, followed by the invention of the semi-automatic machine called the Press and Blow. In 1904 Michael Owens invented the automatic bottle machine. Before this time most glass bottles in England were hand blown. This is one of four bottles in our Collection that were recovered by a local diver from the quarantine area just inside the Port Phillip Heads. Ships were required to pull into this area to check for diseases etc before they could head up to Melbourne. Quite often they would drink and throw the bottles overboard. Handmade glass bottle, manufactured in the 1850s-1900s. The bottle gives a snapshot into history and a social life that occurred during the early days of Melbourne's development and the sea trade that visited the port in those days. Bottle, solid colour brown glass,concave base, tapering slightly wider towards shoulder then inwards towards neck; ring of glass just below opening. Base is blown glass; pontil mark on base. Label "c.1850's STUBBY ALE", "ENGLISH HAND MADE, CORK & WIRE SEAL", "PONTIL MARK ON BASE $6" flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, brown glass bottle, handmade glass bottle, handmade beer bottle, handmade late 19th century bottle

This is one of four bottles in our Collection that were recovered by a local diver from the quarantine area just inside the Port Phillip Heads. Ships were required to pull into this area to check for diseases etc before they could head up to Melbourne. Quite often they would drink and throw the bottles overboard. Handmade glass bottle, manufactured in 1850's - 1900's. Glass bottles and glass jars are in many households around the world. The first glass bottles were produced in south-east Asia around 100 B.C. and the Roman Empire around 1 AD. America's glass bottle and glass jar industry were born in the early 1600s when settlers in Jamestown built the first glass-melting furnace. The invention of the automatic glass bottle blowing machine in 1880 industrialized the process of making bottles. In 2019, plans were made to re-introduce milk glass bottle deliveries to Auckland in early 2020 The earliest bottles or vessels were made by ancient man. Ingredients were melted to make glass and then clay forms were dipped into the molten liquid. When the glass cooled off, the clay was chipped out of the inside leaving just the hollow glass vessel. This glass was very thin as the fire was not as hot as modern-day furnaces. The blowpipe was invented around 1 B.C. This allowed molten glass to be gathered at the end of the blowpipe and blown into the other end to create a hollow vessel. Eventually, the use of moulding was introduced, followed by the invention of the semi-automatic machine called the Press and Blow. In 1904 Michael Owens invented the automatic bottle machine. Before this time most glass bottles in England were hand blown. This is one of four bottles in our Collection that were recovered by a local diver from the quarantine area just inside the Port Phillip Heads. Ships were required to pull into this area to check for diseases etc before they could head up to Melbourne. Quite often they would drink and throw the bottles overboard. Handmade glass bottle, manufactured in the 1850s-1900s. The bottle gives a snapshot into history and a social life that occurred during the early days of Melbourne's development and the sea trade that visited the port in those days. Bottle, opaque brown glass, concave base, tapering slightly wider towards shoulder then inwards towards neck; ring of glass just below opening. Base is blown glass; pontil mark on base. "STUBBY 1850-1900 SMALL SIZE", ENGLISH 3 PIECE MOULD, HAND MADE TOP", "PAPER LABEL, CORK & WIRE SEAL $6flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, brown glass bottle, handmade glass bottle, handmade beer bottle, handmade late 19th century bottle

This handmade, aqua glass ink bottle's design is sometimes called a ‘boat’ shape. The base was mouth-blown into a rectangular mould, evidenced by the lack of seams, the pontil, crease lies and the uneven thickness of the glass. The shoulder section was mouth-blown into a two-piece mould and then cut off from the blowpipe. The lip is sometimes referred to as a 'burst-lip, which was often filed to be smooth. This method of making bottles was often used in the mid-to-late 19th century. The bottle would then be filled with ink and sealed with a cork. More expensive bottles would have a lip added, which was more time-consuming and costly. The capacity for a bottle such as this was about 3 ½ oz (ounces) equal to about 100 ml. Pens are a common item for that period. Pen and ink have been used for handwriting since about the seventh century. A quill pen made from a bird’s feather was used until the mid-19th century. In the 1850s a steel point nib for the dip pen was invented and could be manufactured on machines in large quantities. The nis only held a small amount of ink so users had to frequently dip the nib into an ink well for more ink. Handwriting left wet ink on the paper, so the blotting paper was carefully used to absorb the excess ink and prevent smudging. Ink could be purchased as a ready-to-use liquid or in powdered form, which needed to be mixed with water. In the 1880s a successful, portable fountain pen gave smooth-flowing ink and was easy to use. In the mid-20th century, the modern ballpoint pen was readily available and inexpensive, so the fountain pen lost its popularity. However, artisans continue to use nib pens to create beautiful calligraphy.The ink bottle is of interest, being made of aqua glass rather than the more common clear glass. This set of ink bottles and pens is significant because of the bottle's method of manufacture, which is representative of a 19th-century handcraft industry that has now been largely replaced by mass production. The bottle and pens are historically significant as tools used for handwritten communication until the mid-20th century when fountain pens and modern ballpoint pens became popular and convenient and mechanical typewriters became part of standard office equipment.Victorian 'Boat' ink bottle, small rectangular, aqua glass ink bottle with grooves along the long sides for pen rests. The base has a pontil, no seams, and the glass is uneven in thickness. The shoulder has two side seams and there is a ridge where it is joined onto the base; there are round indents on each of the shoulder, on the short sides, four in all. The mouth has rough edges. The neck leans to one side. The glass has impurities, crease lines and bubbles. There is dried ink in the bottle. Two pens with metal nibs are included with the ink bottle. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, ink, nib pen, writing ink, writing, copying, banks, lawyers, commerce, student, permanent ink, stationery, record keeping, handwriting, writing equipment, writing accessory, office supply, cottage bottle, boat bottle, mouth-blown bottle, two-part mould, sheer-lip bottle, burst-lip, cork seal, copy ink, aqua glass

This ceramic cover was recovered from the wreck of the 1882-1883 George Roper between the late 1960’s to early 1970’s. It is one of the shipwreck artefacts in the John Chance Collection. The purpose of the cover is unclear. The holes could be for ventilation. The cover may have been used to protect food or keep it at an even temperature. It may also have been used for covering fragrant petals, allowing some scent to escape through the holes. The residue around the underside of the holes and their random placement indicate that the cover could be partially handmade. The discolouration could have come from its time in the sea. The GEORGE ROPER 1882 - 1883 - The George Roper was a 4-masted iron sailing ship built in Liverpool, England, in 1882 for fast international trade with Australia. The large vessel was launched in February 1883. The ship was on its first trip, departing Liverpool for Melbourne, captained by John Ward and a crew of 31. She had almost reached her destination on July 4 1883, approaching Port Phillip Bay and being towed by the steam tug William. The weather changed to rough with fog and both the George Roper and the William hit the dangerous Lonsdale Reef at Port Phillip Heads. The Captain and crew were eventually rescued and taken to Queenscliff. Salvage syndicates were able to recover a lot of the cargo before the George Roper broke up and sank. Amongst the cargo was soft goods, draperies, household items, spirits of malt and distilled liquors, chemicals, dynamite, and 1,400 tons of steel rails for the Victorian Government. Also in the hold were Russell Stourbridge bricks, as paying ballast. The ventilated cover is as an example of domestic ceramic ware of the 1880s. The cover also holds significance as it was recovered by John Chance, a diver from the wreck of the George Groper in the 1960s-70s. Items that come from several wrecks along Victoria's coast have since been donated to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village’s museum collection by his family, illustrating this item’s level of historical value. The George Roper is considered historically and archaeologically significant and as such, is listed on the Victorian Heritage Database, VHR S286. It is an example of a vessel built specifically for fast travel to and from Australia with a large shipment of cargo. The George Roper’s cargo of steel rails adds to the historical significance of international trade to the growing colony of Australia and Victoria in particular, with rail transportation soon to become a faster and safer form of transportation between colonial towns. Divers can still access parts of the scattered wreck and other artefacts recovered in the 1970s and 1980s can be viewed in both public and private collections. Cover; unglazed white ceramic, oval shape. The cover has holes randomly poked through its surface, one large hole is a six pointed star shape. Underneath there is a narrow rim placed slightly inside the edge. There is residue on the underneath around the holes. There is orange-brown discolouration and areas where the surface is lighter coloured. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, john chance, west coast trader, george roper, w. h. potter & sons, w.t. dickson and son, captain john ward, russell stourbridge bricks, port phillip heads, lonsdale reef, dive wreck, vhr s286, coastal trader, ceramic, vintage, ventilated cover, domestic item

This nightgown is one of several linen and clothing items that were made and belonged to Mrs. Eliza Towns and donated to Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village. Eliza was born Eliza Gould in 1857 in South Melbourne (Emerald Hill) and in 1879 married Charles Towns. In the early 1880's they moved to Nhill in western Victoria and remained there for the rest of their married life. Charles was a jeweller and later became an accountant and for many years was involved with the Shire Council, the local show committee (A & P Society), the Hospital Committee and the Board of the local newspaper (the Nhill Free Press). They had three children and lived a life that would be regarded as comfortably "middle class". Eliza probably had a treadle sewing machine and would have made many of her own clothes as well as clothes for her children - adding her own handmade embroidered or crocheted decorative trim. This nightgown is machine sewn by Eliza Towns and she has added a detailed design of pintucks and broderie anglaise lace to the front yoke and cuffs as a decorative element. The 1800's bought a shift in attitude towards modesty as the Victorian era progressed and by the mid to late 1800's it had become more acceptable ladies to wear simple, modest nightgowns. They tended to have a very loose fit and were usually made of linen, cotton or flannel, which had the advantage of providing warmth and also being easy to wash - a necessity for a garment worn next to the skin. Although the basic design of the nightgown was fairly simple, the wearer was free to add various types of trim e.g. lace, crochet, pintucks, embroidery etc.This item is an example of the needlework skills of women in the late 19th century - combining machine stitching with hand embroidery to personalise and embellish a practical item of clothing. It is also significant as an example of a practical solution to the difficulties that women of this era faced with regard to the washing of clothes and household linens.Lady's long, white, cotton nightgown with a V shaped bodice decorated with bands of nine pintucks alternating with strips of broderie anglaise lined with pink ribbon. The opening front placket and neckline are bordered with a simpler broderie anglaise lace. The long sleeves are gathered into cuffs with a matching V shape, pintuck and broderie anglaise design. The front placket fastens with three cream buttons although one is missing. The back of the nightgown has gathered fabric on a plain, narrow V shape yoke. A narrow gusset has been added to the both sides at the bottom of the nightgown.Noneflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, victorian era clothing, victorian era nightgown, nightgown, nightdress, eliza towns, nhill, wimmera, textiles, clothing, machine sewing, hand sewing, pintucks, broderie anglaise, sewing

Handmade ivory coloured cotton full length night gown. Front has yoke of diagonal pieces of lace with cut work and floral patterns, squares, embroidered flowers with horizontal lace pieces across shoulders. The top edge of the skirt has an edge of lace with square shapes and centre flowers of cut work across the front and back. The back has five 1cm tucks on either side of centre that extend 5cm below the lace edge. The high front neckline is square and the high back neckline is rounded. The neckline is edged with cotton broderie lace and insert lace with cream coloured satin ribbon threaded through. Below the decorative lace strip at the front is a section of fine pintucking 12cm on either side of centre and 9cm below lace strip. The night dress has a front opening extending 31cm from the throat. It has a placket with two button holes 10cm and 20cm from the throat. Two buttons on other side. No fastening at throat. French side seams. Long set-in sleeves with two rows of lace and three rows of pintucks extending from shoulder down top of sleeve to wrist. A piece of insert lace at wrist. A frilled cuff of broderie lace widening from 9cm at inside seam to 12cm at outside edge, machine stitched.costume, female underwear, nightgown

A number of Plumbing tools dating from 1880s-1970s and used in teaching at Collingwood Technical School then also at Preston Technical School and at Northern Metropolitan College of TAFE's Heidelberg campus. Includes: Kerosene blow torch X 2 (1930s-); Stillson Grips; Pipe Cutter; Mash hammer; Adjustable spanner X 3 different sizes; Caulking tool; 5 way tee, 2X3 way tee, 4 way tee (1930s-); Old Handmade lead traps (student work) X 2; Metal tool tray holding; Offset adjustable spud spanner; Pear shaped lead working mallet; Bossing tool for lead work (1880s-1920s); Soldering iron (1920s-); Set square; Large screwdriver; Also Plumbing texts: • Problems for elementary physics, new rev. edn., by Thomas Tasker and Alexander Boden, Science Press, Sydney, 1966. • Gasfitting. Printed and published by McCarron Bird Pty. Ltd. [Melbourne] • Trade science for plumbing apprentices, Education Dept. Victoria, 1954 • Sanitary Plumbing and water supply, Dept. of Labour • Gasfitting, produced by members of the Colonial Gas Association Limited, Gas and Fuel Corporation of Victoria, and the Technical Division of the Education Department of Victoria. Rev metric edn. 1976 • Mechanical world year book 1953, Manchester Emmott & Co., 1953 collingwood technical school, preston technical school, northern metropolitan college of tafe, plumbing tools, plumbing texts, nmit

Handmade book with light green covers made from a cut file holder with brown paper glued on the inside, containing 39 typed (original) sheets of paper giving Instructions or Rules to Motormen. Has five page index, then 34 pages, with 104 rules or instructions, covering Tramcar Equipment (electrical), location of faults, tramcar braking, failure of the mechanical brakes, tramcar emergency braking, automatic braking, automatic electric signals and general instructions for Ballarat. The brown paper appears to have been placed on the outside, as it is cut and glued on the inside of the book. Individual sheets held into the book with a metal clip. On the rear of the book, a small piece of cardboard has been glued over the back of the metal strip. Notes mentions bogie trams, so therefore post 1945. Gives details of route electric signals, use of doors on the trams relevant to the central median strip. On page 4, has hand drawn diagram showing the motors in series and parallel. On page 8 has a hand drawn diagram showing the car lighting circuit arrangements. Has been folded in the middle so as to store in pockets of a coat. Images show .1 - book, .2 - inside front cover and index sheet, .3 - hand made drawing - car lighting circuit. See Destination Eaglehawktrams, tramways, secv rules, rules, motormen, conductors