Note in paper catalogue, "Hard surfacing the pathways around the new relocatable buildings erected on the site of the old Lagoon fill (completed 1977). Students completed most of the work with the central garden area designed by Californian exchange staff member Steve Mullany, 1985." 2 similar colour photographs. Students building brick paths around relocatable buildings in the Quad. On reverse, "13.Sep.1985," and, "Hard surfacing with brick.hard surfacing, bricks, pathways, students, gardens, californian exchange, staff, steve mullany, quad, relocatable buildings, students working outside

This pair of spectacles was prescribed and made in Warrnambool by brothers Fred and Geoff Bennet from about 1946 when they established their optometrist business at 192 Liebig Street Warrnambool. The business moved to 152 Liebig Street in 1988, by which time it had already changed hands to become McMahon and Owen Optometrists. Jayson Ward and Mathew Bucks purchased the business in 2012, then changed the name to Warrnambool Eyecare in 2016. They also own and practice at Portland Eyecare.This pair of glasses is significant as an example of locally owned and manufacture red eyewear from the mid 290th century. Spectacles, Pince-nez with oval shaped tinted lenses, metal bridge and rubber nose pads. Hard surfaced blue velvet lined spectacle case. Inscription on case. Made by F.G. & P..G. Bennett in Warrnambool."F.G. & P.G. Bennett Warrnambool"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, pince-nez, glasses, eyewear, seeing aids, vision, optician, f.g. & p.g. bennett warrnambool, eye care, magnifiers, reading glasses, fred and geoff bennett, personal effects

Hobnailed boots are boots with hobnails (nails inserted into the soles of the boots), usually installed in a regular pattern, over the sole. They also usually have an iron horseshoe-shaped insert, called a heel iron, to strengthen the heel, and an iron toe-piece. The hobnails project below the sole and provide traction on soft or rocky ground and snow, but they tend to slide on smooth hard surfaces. They may also have steel toecaps. When Army boots were made 100% of leather, to get some grip on the soles hob-nails were hammered into them. These boots are an example of the foot wear worn by the eA dark brown leather pair of very heavy hob-nailed boots. They have nails inserted into the soles of the boots in a regular pattern, over the sole. The toes and the heels have been strengthened with metal. The boots are made to lace up at the front.boots-hobnailed footwear

Surveying instrument accessories. Two sets. Used in conjunction with item 4129 - Collapsible leg surveying instrument, tripod. Could also be used with item 4130 - Plane Table which goes with the tripod mentioned.A set of three steel discs, connected in star configuration by three brass chains of equal length. Used to contain tripod ends on hard smooth surfaces.surveying, metal, steel discs, scientific instruments, location chains, plane table

Implements with a hard smooth roundedend or surface used for smoothing and polishing.Set of four burnishing tools used to polish leather. 3 - Metal with wooden handles. 1 - All metal with patterned ends,L. Richter Northampton on wooden handle, double ended tool with round middle.burnishers, polishers, surface finishing tools

To be used for shaping butter into a cube. Mould is constructed of four pieces of wood joined together to form a rectangular central hollow. Small pieces of timber have been nailed in to reinforce the joins. The hollow would be filled with butter, then either the mould would be tapped sharply on a hard surface to remove the square of butter, or a plunger or other device used to push the butter from the mould. Note: Mould is fairly roughly made, suggesting it is home-made, and the absence of grease etc on inside of mould suggests it may never have been used.butter mould

The Jot a Dot Pocket Brailler is a portable, manual Braille writer designed for use by individuals who are blind or have low vision. This small, lightweight brailler has six keys for Braille entry. The keys have high contrast colors for identification by users with low vision. Braille is written from the left hand side of the page to the right, with 20 cells of braille per line. The user can read Braille as it is written by turning the unit over. A built-in reading stand keeps the unit stable when resting on hard surfaces. Tactile line and cell indicators show the current location on the page. The line indicator shows which line is being Brailled, and the cell indicator shows the position of the embossing head on the line. By turning the device over, the user can read the Braille as they write it. This Brailler uses standard photocopy paper in A5 and A6 paper sizes. The unit is constructed in one piece, so there are no parts that can be lost. 1 rectangular blue Braille unit with 6 bright green keys Yellow sticker LN017a on front. On back Jot a Dot F07077 sponsored by Guide Dogs. braille equipment, assistive devices

A baleen whale has hard bristly baleen that hangs from its upper jaw inside its mouth instead of teeth. Baleen is made from a protein called keratin, just like human hair and fingernails, and its colour can vary between species, from black to yellow or white. The whale uses the tough, flexible baleen like a sieve to catch its food, filtering the small sea creatures out of the sea water it releases from its mouth. In the19th Century, whales were hunted for the products that could be made from their bodies, such as oil for lubricating machinery, soap making, lamps, heaters and fuel for the lighthouse lights. The flexible baleen was used for whip handles, carriage springs and umbrella ribs. It was also used for the skirt hoops, hat ribs, and rigid ‘stays’ in tightly fitting bodices to enhance their figures. The Southern Right Whales, as well as Blue Whales and Humpback Whales, are baleen whales. The Southern Rights annually visit the ocean off the southwest coast during the breeding season. In the early 1800s whalers hunted along this coastline in their dangerous pursuit of money for the precious cargoes of whale oil and bones. The population of these large animals dwindled quickly and by the late 1840s the whaling industry dwindled. Whaling recommenced from the 1940s to the 1980s when the whale products were used to make margarine and dog food. The baleen sample has been used to educate people about whaling and about the properties of baleen. The baleen sample is significant for its association with 19th century women's fashion. It helps to understand how garments were supported to shape a woman's figure. The baleen sample represents a period when whales were hunted and killed to provide income and products for for the local settlers and for the export industry.Baleen sample from a whale's jaw. Its black shiny hard yet flexible surface is slightly rippled and textured. One end is fringed and the other and a smooth cut edge. The colour varies in places, with stripy brown colouring. flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, baleen, whalebone, baleen whale, keratin, 19th century, whaling industry, women's fashion, stays, bodice, women's figures, fashion, clothing, whale oil, baleen colour, whale hunting, whale products, southern right whale, blue whale, humpback whale, southwest victoria, whalers, whale bones

Horseshoes protect horse hooves from wear, particularly for working horses on hard or rough surfaces. The variety suggests different uses, including: Light riding horses (smaller, rounded shoes) Workhorses or farm animals (thicker, reinforced shoes) Specialized or orthopedic shoes (some with unique bends or missing sections) Given the wear and corrosion, these may have been dug up from an old blacksmith site or farm.A collection of various horseshoes, differing in size, shape, and condition. Some horseshoes are intact, while others appear worn, broken, or partially damaged. The horseshoes have multiple nail holes, suggesting frequent reuse or replacements. Varied curvatures and widths indicate they were used for different horse breeds or work types. Rust and corrosion are present, showing signs of age and exposure to the elements.horseshoes, horses, farm equipment, commercial equipment, horse equipment

As quoted from Wikipedia, ‘An anvil is a block with a hard surface on which another object is, struck. The block is as massive as it is practical, because the higher the inertia of the anvil, the more efficiently it causes the energy of the striking tool to be transferred to the work piece’. The lightstation’s anvil is a red-painted iron block with a conical beak or horn at one end that was used for hammering curved pieces of metal. It would have stood on a heavy free-standing pedestal, such as a large tree stump, to allow complete access to the item being hammered. Some anvils display the manufacturer’s name in the metal on the side, but this is not the case here, and its age, although unknown appears to be quite old, perhaps c.1900. It appears to have had a lot of use, and although no record of this survives, it is presumed that a forge operated on site for hammering, cutting, shaping and repairing tools such as bolts, nails, hooks, chain segments, pulley blocks, hinges, crow bars, picks, chisels, horseshoes and harness hardware. A hames hook (which forms part of the collar worn by a draught horse) survives at the lightstation as do many other heavy metal tools and pieces of equipment. The anvil is an example of the necessary resourcefulness and self sufficiency practiced by lightkeepers working and living in a remotely located workplace and home, and many of the iron items in the collection may have been repaired or even made on its working surface. As a lightstation manager Chris Richter used the anvil to manufacture pulley blocks for sash windows, repair brass door hinges & sharpen cold chisels, crowbars and picks and other lightkeepers have used this anvil for many fabricating jobs such as manufacturing ducting for the generator room ventilation system."The lightship only came in every three months with supplies and there would have been repairs to do between visits from a blacksmith - who would have had to travel on the ship. Also, the ship was only anchored in the bay long enough to unload supplies and collect and deliver lightkeeping staff – probably not enough time to get much smithy work done – especially if the weather packed it in and the ship had to depart. Lightkeepers in our time had to be self sufficient, resourceful and innovative and I imagine that would have been the case in the past." It has second level contributory significance.Red painted blacksmith's anvil.

The blacksmith leg vise is also called the "solid box vise" and is one of the most important tools in the blacksmith's shop. It firmly holds hot iron while it is hammered, chiseled, or twisted. These are the only vises that are designed to take this kind of use day in and day out. A small 30-pound blacksmith's vise can survive pounding that would wreck a much heavier cast iron bench model. Three things make a blacksmith's vice special. One is that they are forgings, not cast iron or ductile iron. The second is the leg that provides support to the floor or from a sunken post. The last is the hinge, while not a perfect way to construct a vice the pin joint is durable and can take a considerable beating. If sheared it is easy to replace. These things all combine into a tool that can take decades of heavy use and abuse. Most in use is one to two hundred years old.Some of these vises were made by specialists such as Atwood of Stourbridge England, Steel City and Columbian in the U.S. and others were made in anvil manufacturing plants such as "Mousehole Forge" and "Peter Wright" in England and "Fisher-Norris" and others in North America. The design of these vises right down to the last chamfer seems to have been perfected in the 1600s and remained more or less the same until the 20th century. The bodies are forged wrought iron or mild steel and they have hard steel surfaces welded into the jaws. The jaws have little or very shallow serrations which are generally worn off.Around the turn of the 20th Century during the hey-day of the blacksmith shop in North America, these tools were considered so standard a commodity that they were sold without reference to the manufacturer. Very few were even marked with the maker's name. Size is best defined by weight as there is some variation in jaw size from manufacturer to manufacturer. They were sold by the pound and are still best judged by the pound.A vintage tool used in a Blacksmiths shop during the early 19th century to the beginning of the 20th century. Regarded as a significant into social history of the time.Leg Vice attached with screws to bench via a block of wood. Has large metal pole which practically reaches the floor. Also has a metal device to either tighten or slacken vice.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

Actinolite is usually found in metamorphic rocks, such as contact aureoles surrounding cooled intrusive igneous rocks. It also occurs as a product of the metamorphism of magnesium-rich limestones. Pyrite is usually found with other sulfides or oxides in quartz veins, sedimentary rock, and metamorphic rock, as well coal beds, and as a replacement mineral in fossils. Actinolite is an amphibole silicate mineral. It is named after the Greek word "aktinos" meaning “ray” in allusion to the mineral's fibrous nature. Fibrous actinolite is a type of asbestos and was once mined along Jones Creek at Gundagai, New South Wales. Pyrite or "Fool's Gold" is the most common sulfide mineral. It is named after the Greek "pyr" meaning "fire" because it can be used to create sparks needed for a fire if struck against metal or a hard surface. Due to its gold colour, pyrite can be mistaken for gold and often forms alongside it, causing small amounts of gold to be present in rocks containing pyrite. Most importantly, pyrite is an ore of gold. Pyrite is sometimes used as a gemstone but is not great for jewellery as it easily tarnishes. In some fossils of ammonites – shelled cephalopods that died ~66 million years ago – pyrite also replaces the shell. This specimen is part of a larger collection of geological and mineral specimens collected from around Australia (and some parts of the world) and donated to the Burke Museum between 1868-1880. A large percentage of these specimens were collected in Victoria as part of the Geological Survey of Victoria that begun in 1852 (in response to the Gold Rush) to study and map the geology of Victoria. Collecting geological specimens was an important part of mapping and understanding the scientific makeup of the earth. Many of these specimens were sent to research and collecting organisations across Australia, including the Burke Museum, to educate and encourage further study. A small-medium-sized solid specimen with the minerals actinolite (dark green fibrous) and pyrite (brassy) with shades of brown, black/grey, and white. Actinolite is an amphibole mineral in the tremolite-actinolite series of calcium, magnesium, and iron silicates. Pyrite is an iron disulfide mineral.geological specimen, geology, geology collection, burke museum, beechworth, indigo shire, geological, mineralogy, pyrite, actinolite, victoria, sewyln, alfred selwyn

The photograph printed on this postcard comes from the collection of the Mitchell Library in Sydney. It is sepia in tone and depicts seven men standing and sitting around a mine shaft in the Beechworth region. The photograph has been dated to approximately 1872. This period in history post-dates the Victorian gold rushes which occurred 1852-1853 in Ballarat, Bendigo and Beechworth. During this period, in the 1870s, the surface alluvial gold had been discovered and removed from location. Therefore, in order to reach the deeper and less accessible alluvial gold, diggers began to dig shafts into the earth. These shafts sunk below the ground level by 20 to 30 feet and required timber structures around the entrance and winches to bring the paydirt to the top. The top of this wooden structure is visible behind the man standing in the upper right of the image. This type of mining was highly dangerous as mines often caved in which injured the minors and often resulted in death. Thus, following this period, in the early 1900s, miners opted instead for hydrolic slucing which cut away the earth without the devastating consequences of a mine cave in. This particular group of miners appear to have been unable to afford a horse (then worth around 50 pounds) which were generally used at mines like this to help pull buckets attached to ropes up and down the mine. Instead, this group brought the buckets up and down by windlass. The windlass was a wooden structure mounted over the mining shaft and fitted with a hand-cranked winch which enabled the bucket attached to the rope to be brought up and down.Gold was first discovered in Beechworth in Spring and Reid's Creek in the summer of 1852-1853. At its popularity, this region had approximately 8000 people on the gold fields searching for gold on the banks of these creeks. These periods did not require the use of heavy machinery or the digging of deep mining shafts like the one depicted in this image. Therefore, this image has important connotations for the technologies associated with mining during the approximated 1870s when gold was harder to access. This is a later period in gold history which does not fit into the "gold rush" period. Instead, it occurred after the surface gold had disappeared and therefore, is essential for researchers who are investigating the mining techniques and structures used to reach the alluvial gold which was located deeper under ground in the 1870s. This period predates the use of big heavy machinery used to mine in the 1900s which include dredges. Images such as this one can also impart essential information as to the wardrobe and fashion of men during this period. It also imparts knowledge about the landscape of Beechworth which is useful for people researching the environment and impact of gold mining in the north-east region of Victoria. In addition, since this image is a postcard reproduction of an early Australian image which may date to approximately 1990 it can impart knowledge as to the interests of people during this time period when there may have been an increase into Australian history.A sepia tone facsimile of an early Australian photograph (circa 1872) printed as a postcard.Obverse: BEECHWORTH / Victoria, Australia / Reverse: GM 2 3275 / CORRESPONDENCE / AUSTRALIAN / YESTERYEAR / CARDS / ADDRESS / Published by George Symons (057) 65 3240 / THE MINEHEAD C. 1872 / The easily gleaned gold of the early fields did / not last very long. In order to reach less / accessible alluvial gold diggers began sinking shafts as much as twenty to thirty feet down / and the mines required timbering and winches / to bring the paydirt to the top. / This syndicate has been unable to afford the / luxury of a horse (about 50 pounds) and so everything / must go up and down by windlass and rawhide / bucket. / Photo: Mitchell Library, Sydney / A sepia tone facsimile of / an early Australian photographmining album, gold mine, beechworth, burke museum, mine shaft, postcard, australian yesteryear cards, george symons, the minehead, gold fields, alluvial gold, early australia, c.1872, 1872, gold diggers, north east victoria

This "coffee" tin has by the "art deco" appearance its origins in the late 1950's to 1960's. This time period was one of accelerated growth both in the physical (housing) sense and the mental (new ideas and inventions) changes in "attitudes". These occurred more rapidly in cities but had its effects on the rural environment. The drinking of coffee was spurred on by easier distribution of imported food and drinks. Advertising by stronger radio links and then by television brought the variety of foods and drinks to semi isolated rural regions. The accessibility through greater information channels becoming available brought with it unbelievable ranges of goods and foodstuffs. Rural regions still relied on bulk supplies and relatively larger storage containers than those in cities. This "bulk" buying and storage "syndrome" was a lingering result of many years of "drought" periods when road transports met delays from flooded roadways in supplying population centres in the Kiewa Valley. The construction phases in building the SEC Vic Hydro electricity Scheme in the eastern sections of the Victorian Alps brought many changes to the quiet rural regions in the Kiewa Valley. Changes in population and social mores. The influx of a varied , mostly temporary, and "European flavoured cuisine" changes the "cuppa tea only" flavour to the have a "coffee break". The subliminal influence of the "American" films changed those children growing up in the post 1950s from the "English tea" to the "American coffee". This "Americanisation process has influenced not only rural Australia but also other areas throughout the world.This "insignificant" coffee tin is very significant as it demonstrates that the Kiewa Valley was becoming more accessible to reliable coffee supplies and general food items.The container was part of a "set" of containers that included tea, sugar,biscuits,flour, rice and other family condiments. This type of kitchen storage containers was brought about through changing patterns in tea and coffee useage and overall consumption. Household demands for faster "self help" cooking especially beveridges and the greater choice of kitchen "utensils" was brought on by easier access to products due to a lessening of the area's "isolation" by having a reliable (all weather) road system and an ever increasing population growth. The need for travelling goods/merchant supply caravans to service the area became a diminishing factor, as a result of the establishment of grocery stores in Tawonga and Mount Beauty in the supply of previously "hard to get" groceries. This transition was precipitated by the SEC Vic Hydro Scheme of the 1940's to 1960's which increased the valley's population level three fold.This cylindrical tin has a pull/push lid(for easy access to the contents). The container is labelled for "coffee" however it has no commercial manufacturer's label to establish that it was bought with coffee ingredients in it. The majority of the container's external surface has a "metallic" light blue colour with two sets of silver rings confining black (horizontal spotted) rectangles. "COFFEE" within an elongated spherical "art deco" four pointed banner of silver and black colouringkitchen containers, domestic food storage, bulk stocks of dried condiments

This iron was used to press clothes prior to the spirit and electrical irons becoming available circa 1930s - 1950s. The main body of the iron was placed on a flat heated surface of a stove (wood, coal or gas fired). It was mainly used by women in their domestic role, ironing the family's clothes and linen. In the Kiewa Valley the supply of coal or gas was not available or too expensive than the locally cut hard wood trees. Ironing was time consuming as the iron had to be heated, used and then reheated to the required level of application. Kiewa Valley farmers' wives used these irons having heated their stoves with local timber from their farms. This iron is made of cast iron. The handle is a hollow cylinder and is 70 mm above the solid 30 mm base. Presumably the handle was wrapped and/or threaded with cloth to protect the hand from the heat of the iron. The iron would have been heated on the top of a stove.6 Metters KFB Victoriairon, laundry, domestic, antique, pressing clothes, household

Hard red cover, embossed lumpy surface & string binder. The upper right corner has a 60 mm dia hole. Embossed around this hole are the words My Childhood. The internal pages are black cardboard. Fixed to these are 4 black & white photos per page. Photo description is written in white adjacent to photos. Photo subjects of native people from Egypt, Africa, Thailand, Palestine, Syria & Jerusalem, Tobruk, Gaza & Jerusalem war cemeteries.Front cover printed: “My Childhood”album, photographs, native

MEDIUM: Inkjet print on cotton rag. DESCRIPTION: Abstract image, black and pale brown/ivory, black outer frame with glass, white board inner frame under glass. The objects appear to be broken up pieces of something greater. Pieces of a greater machine, here re-assembled in hard angular lines and triangular blocks, in abstracted form. The image is a close up, the ink on cotton comes up in rough grainy scratches of shadow. Shades of grey with highlights of blue. Dark angles with patches and corners of pure black. Hard dark lines which meet with white surfaces, blend into grey.Signed, titled and dated on backing board.de, grouchy, lightspace, inkjet

At the time when this shortbread / butter stamp block was used, rural dairies and larger properties who manufactured their own butter used butter stamps blocks for identifying the source of the butter or for decoration.. The patterns stamped into the warmed butter provided for a range of decorative visual enhancement to the "plain" and "boring" straight leveled normal butter surface. Although the wooden surfaces could be hard to keep clean commercial usage would have been limited and eventually replaced by a non porous and hygienically cleaner material. Greater hygiene controls where introduced. from the late 1940s on. These controls were the result of high infectious illnesses due to contaminated milk and dairy handling methods.This shortbread / butter stamp was used by a Kiewa Valley dairy and it presents what the domestic butter beautification processes were available during the mid to latter 1900s was. Their was a pride by rural properties in their produce and its by-products.This shortbread / butter stamp is made from wood, round and fashioned from a flat bed to a dome top. The top has a round moulded hole with screw indentations for fastening a pressure pole. The pattern on the face of the stamp is of an eleven petalled flower pattern around a small circular flower head. Both the head and petals have indentations which are will produce raised points in the pressed butter. Enclosing the flower pattern is a pattern which when pressed against the butter would produce small ridges radiating outward.On the dome stamped in black ink "T. & W. Davies"butter stamp, domestic butter blocks, domestic food preparations., shortbread, stamp, dairy, butter

The "nib" pen was the preferred scribe method up until the "fountain" pen was produced (1940's), both could use specific inks that had longer life periods on paper surfaces. Ink wells such as those incorporated in this desk set allowed the user to select the colour and "type of ink" required. The nib pen was the only writing pen that could tolerate "Iron gall" ink. Legal documents were at the start of the mid 1980's required by law(in Australia) to be signed by "well" filled pens. The inks used were either "indian" or "iron/oak gall" because their infusion into paper could not be erased and they had a longer "paper" life and were harder to forge. Bottled ink was superior to that supplied in fountain pens or "biro pens" because the user's choice to a greater range of inks covered a variety of scenarios. Forging a nib signature is extremely hard compared to that of a "biro pen" because a nib settles in to the users particular style of pen movement and arm pressure.This desk writing set was typical of those used by administrators, businesses or quasi legal sectors within the Kiewa Valley, before the lifting of the ban on the use of biros "to sign" legal documents. Fountain pens were used extensively before cheaper biros (throw away) writing implements (1940's) came into the market place.This glass ink well desk set has two circular ink wells connected to their respective nib holders. The nib holders are smaller circular receptacles and feed off the larger ink reservoirs. Between the two larger ink wells is a shallow bottomed elongated "oval" sphere able to contain "slide on" clips, two pronged fasteners (require a hole to be punched in papers) or small "bulldog" clips. At the front edge is an elongated and grooved (two) place for writing nibs. The grooves keep each nib or fountain pen separated.The glass structure is made from clear glass and only the outside "boxed" walls of the desk set make contact with the desk surface. The ink wells can also securely accommodate small bottles of ink. This would have been the case for refillable fountain pens.stationery, fountain pens, nib pens, ink receptors, glass ink wells

Construction of the main road from South Tawonga to the Bogong High Plains, to provide access to the construction sites for the new Kiewa Hydro Electric Scheme, was commenced early in 1938, the work being undertaken on behalf of the Commission by the Country Roads Board. For the construction work, the Commission purchased three Caterpillar - model R07 - diesel crawler tractors equipped with Kay Brunerei (Brunner) hydraulically operated trailbuilders (angle dozers). This acquisition resulted from a visit to the United States of America in May, 1937 by the Construction Engineer ( Mr. C.H. Kernot) and Assistant Civil Engineer (Mr. J.F. Douglas) where they saw this relatively new type of equipment in use. With the co-operation of the CRB, the Commission demonstrated the operation of these machines at Fishermen's Bend on 6th April, 1938. They were then sent to Kiewa where they commenced operation towards the end of the month. From South Tawonga, the route led immediately across the Western Branch of the Kiewa River necessitating the construction of a bridge 100 feet long. By the end of 1939, the excavation had been 'opened up' for a distance of 19 1/2 miles (approx. 31 km) and of this length, 10 miles (approx. 16 km) had been surfaced.The purchase and use of this type of mechanical equipment in road making was a huge investment, as prior to this most of the work would have been done manually with the use of picks and shovels. Not only were many months of hard manual labour saved, but a very significant amount of time in providing access to the proposed work sites for the new Kiewa Hydro Scheme. This photo is an excellent reminder of how primitive the early machinery was compared to the present but also represents the forward thinking of the State Electricity Commissions engineers in purchasing such innovative equipment . A black and white photograph showing the type of machinery used for road making in the 1930's. It shows a grader being towed by a caterpillar tractor.On the top left hand corner of the photograph , hand written in black ink is the words 'Kiewa Road Making 25/8/1938'. On the right hand side of the photo has been stamped in blue the Number 1. It has been developed on Velox paper (marked on back of photo) with a gloss finish.road making, state electricity commission, caterpillar tractor, kiewa

Construction of the main road from South Tawonga to the Bogong High Plains, to provide access to the construction sites for the new Kiewa Hydro Electric Scheme, was commenced early in 1938, the work being undertaken on behalf of the commission by the Country Roads Board. For the construction work, the Commission purchased three Caterpillar - model R07 - diesel crawler tractors equipped with Kay Brunerei (Brunner) hydraulically operated trailbuilders (angle dozers). This acquisition resulted from a visit to the United States of America in May, 1937 by the Construction Engineer ( Mr. C.H. Kernot) and Assistant Civil Engineer ( Mr. J.F. Douglas) where they saw this relatively new type of equipment in use. With the co-operation of the CRB, the Commission demonstrated the operation of these machines at Fishermen's Bend on 6th April, 1938. They were then sent to Kiewa where they commenced operation towards the end of the month. From South Tawonga, the route let immediately across the Western Branch of the Kiewa River necessitating the construction of a bridge 100 feet long. By the end of 1939, the excavation had been 'opened up' for a distance of 19 1/2 miles (approx. 31 km.) and of this length, 10 miles (approx. 16 km.) had been surfaced. (see KVHS 0328)The purchase of this type of mechanical equipment in road making was a huge investment, as prior to this most of the work would have been done manually with the use of picks and shovels. Not only were many months of hard manual labour saved, but a very significant amount of time in providing access to the proposed work sites for the new Kiewa Hydro Scheme. This photo is an excellent reminder of how primitive the early machinery was compared to the present but also represents the forward thinking of the State Electricity Commissions engineers in purchasing such innovative equipment.A black and white photograph of road making near Mt. Beauty in 1938. Mount Beauty hills can be seen in the background with cleared land for grazing in the fore ground.Hand printed in black ink at the top of the photograph is 'Kiewa Road Making 25/8/1938'. On the right hand corner has been printed the number 2. It has been printed on gloss Velox paper.road making, state electricity commission, caterpillar tractor, kiewa, secv

Construction of the main road from South Tawonga to the Bogong High Plains, to provide access to the construction sites for the new Kiewa Hydro Electric Scheme, was commenced early in 1938, the work being undertaken on behalf of the Commission by the Country Roads Board. For the construction work, the Commission purchased three Caterpillar - model R07 - diesel crawler tractors equipped with Kay Brunerei (Brunner) hydraulically operated trail builders (angle dozers)). This acquisition resulted from a visit to the United States of America in May, 1937 by the Construction Engineer ( Mr. C.H. Kernot) and Assistant Civil Engineer (Mr. J.F. Douglas) where they saw this relatively new type of equipment in use. With the co-operation of the CRB, the Commission demonstrated the operation of these machines at Fishermen's Bend on 6th April, 1938. They were then sent to Kiewa where they commenced operation towards the end of the month. From South Tawonga, the route led immediately across the Western Branch of the Kiewa River necessitating the construction of a bridge 100 feet long. By the end of 1939,the excavation had been 'opened up' for a distance of 19 1/2 miles (approx. 31 km.) and of this length, 10 miles (approx. 16 km) had been surfaced.The purchase and use of this type of mechanical equipment in road making was a huge investment, as prior to this most of the work would have been done manually with the use of picks and shovels. Not only were many months of hard manual labour saved, but a very significant amount of time in providing access to the proposed work sites for the new Kiewa Hydro Scheme. This photo is an excellent reminder of how primitive the early machinery was compared to the present but also represents the forward thinking of the State Electricity Commission's Engineers in purchasing such new and innovative equipment.A black and white photograph of a Caterpillar diesel crawler tractor and a hydraulically operated trailbuilder (angle dozer) making a road in the Mt. Beauty area.Hand written in black ink in the top left hand corner are the words "Kiewa Road Making 25/8/1938". On the upper right hand of the photograph has been stamped the number 3. On the back is stamped the word 'Velox' severaly times, which is the make of the photograhic paper. roadmaking, caterpillar tractor, kiewa, state electricity commission

Historically this item was used before the spirit and the electrical iron took over Circa 1930s -1950s. The main body of the iron was placed on a flat heated surface of a stove (wood, coal or gas fired). It was mainly used by women in their domestic role, ironing the family clothes and linen. In the Kiewa Valley the supply of coal or gas was not available or too expensive than the locally cut hard wood trees. This particular iron was an improvement on the fixed handled iron because it allowed (by use of its easily detachable handle) to use multiple bases and thereby allowing a constant heat supply to be maintained and not having to waste time for a base to reheat to the required level of application.The significance of this item was that it allowed for a faster method of ironing clothes and linen. It's invention was a progress towards reducing the time it took to undertake a very labour and intensive domestic function. The reduction of time taken for this household duty provided women great flexibility to undertake other activities. These type of improvements to basic domestic tasks liberated housewives not only physically but also mentally from the isolation of the home environment.This flat iron has a removable, clip-on handle. The handle and its release knob are of wood. The base of the handle together with the heavy flat body are made of cast iron. The body of the iron is oval shaped tapered at each end and is 40mm thick.Underneath the handle frame and on the main body, on one side, in raised lettering is "Mrs Potts" and on the other side "Iron". Both are clearly visible when viewed from an aerial position. Under removable handle and on a plate (screwed onto the main body) is "No 2"iron, antique, household, pressing clothes, domestic, laundry

This item relates to methods of reproducing photos on all forms of material in an era of physical offset printing.The offset method is being replaced by digital transfer direct to the final product,(paper or other porous and non porous surfaces). Newspapers and other "paper" information publications are still producing "hard copies" but these are slowly being phased out. This item was used Circa 1920s in the peek period of paper based media. From the 1940s radio and then television stepped into the mass media revolution.This book was produced when all printing, Government and private enterprise, was using the "off set" method. This method was used to a great degree in all schools within the Kiewa Valley. It was in an era before "photo-copying machines" were available. This was a period when printing inks for larger printing machines had to be purchased from specialised outlets and printing presses required to be washed after each "run" of printing before the next plate(aluminium) could be fastened onto the "off sett" machinery. Heat infusion now used in large machines and domestic printers has superseded this task. Faded green cloth covered book with green papered front and back sleeve pages.Photos and sketches are throughout the book. Gloss paper used from page 1 one to page 400. Pages 401 to page 432 are not gloss paper. The type of paper varies throughout the book until final advertisement and index pages, from page 833 to page 846, are on gloss paperThe spine cover is badly worn and wording is faded. Front cover has"Commercial Engraving And Printing" Author and publisher details written by Charles W. Hackleman. Published by Commercial Engraving Publishing Company, "A Manual of Practical Instruction and Reference Covering" Commercial Illustrating and Printing by all Processes.technical book, reference for engraving and printing

From the 1970's onward the relative isolation of regional areas was improving in "leaps and bounds". Social amenities, and life styles were changing at a great rate. Items such as this camera (recreational/life style/non professional) capture of the altering socio economic balance of rural based activities provided the catalyst for greater appreciation by city dwellers to the benefits of rural life. The greater levels of communicative avenues, especially the visual (photography, pictures, television and the internet), from the beginning of this period and throughout the time frame (1970 to the 2000s) has cut the major restraints of what was rural "isolationism".The significance of this type of camera, being a small two lens (normal, telescopic) and portable piece of equipment, allowed non professional tourists, locals or visitors to visually display the uniqueness of the Kiewa Valley and Alpine regions. This method of promotional and intimate visual reproduction of not only physical but also through personal involvement, of the photographer to the audience, a greater psychological impact, by the nature of intimacy involved. This type of photography is one of the most effective stimuli to promote the unique qualities of the Kiewa Valley region.This Item is dual lens (22mm,44mm) camera comprising of an elongated oblong shape, black hard plastic shell. It has a slightly rough surface(for a better fingers grip), two latches are located at the back, one to release the camera from its hinged protective cover and one to move to the next picture frame (film is within a cartridge).On swing cover "Kodak Tele 1 " on back in small print "MADE IN USA" On camera body "KODAK TELE EKTRA 1" underneath "CAMERA" and on slide switch(front) to change lenses:"Tele" and "Norm" kodak two lens camera, photographic hobby usa made camera

This Minton floor tile is from the wreck of the Loch Ard and is currently on display in the Great Circle Gallery at Flagstaff Hill. The iron hulled clipper ship from the Loch Line was heading for Port Phillip from London, when it ran into the cliffs of Mutton Bird Island near Port Campbell. The Loch Ard was laden with a high value cargo including luxury goods intended for display at the Melbourne International Exhibition in 1880. One notable survivor from the ship’s freight manifest was the well packed Minton porcelain peacock, a two meter high ceramic masterpiece of vivid glazed colours. (This is also on display in the Great Circle Gallery). The almost total loss of life and property from the Loch Ard registered as a shocking tragedy for the Colony of Victoria, at a time when social confidence and economic optimism were otherwise high. Wealth generated from Gold and Wool was increasingly being spent on grandiose private residences and imposing public buildings. The demand for quality furnishings and fittings was therefore strong. Among the products consigned to burgeoning colonial markets by the Milton pottery at Stoke upon Trent, were their new range of colourfully patterned but very durable floor tiles ideal for the high-traffic spaces in the large civic buildings then being constructed in Australia and America. These new floor tiles were “encaustic”, meaning that their designs and colours were encased “within” the depth of the tile. Rather than their decorative patterns being glazed onto the surface of the tile, their inlaid designs were created during the manufacturing process, as “coloured slips” (or liquid clay) were poured into a deep pre-molded casting. When fired, the resulting tile was colours-fast and design-fast. The Minton floor tile is significant for its hard-wearing yet attractive design. The shipwreck of the Loch Ard is of significance for Victoria and is registered on the Victorian Heritage Register ( S 417). Flagstaff Hill has a varied collection of artefacts from Loch Ard and its collection is significant for being one of the largest accumulations of artefacts from this notable Victorian shipwreck of which the subject items are a small part. The collections of objects give us a snapshot of how we can interpret the story of this tragic event. The collection is also archaeologically significant as it represents aspects of Victoria's shipping history that allows us to interpret Victoria's social and historical themes of the time. Through is associated with the worst and best-known shipwreck in Victoria's history. A square Minton floor tile with a dark brown, beige and white pattern. The tile has a piece broken off along one side and some chipping along the edges. This ‘encaustic’ floor tile was recovered from the shipwreck of the LOCH ARD. Branded "... MINTON&CO Patent ..."flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, loch line, loch ard, captain gibbs, eva carmichael, tom pearce, glenample station, mutton bird island, minton floor tile, encaustic tile, melbourne international exhibition, floor tile

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic