Showing 97 items
matching janet amess
-
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Bed Jacket, c 1860
... janet amess lace collection.... Packaged with note: "Limerick lace bed jacket Janet Amess 1860 from...Packaged with note: "Machined lace bed jacket. Janet Amess... with note: "Machined lace bed jacket. Janet Amess 1860. From Kel ...Another delicate item, this bed jacket has been made with machine made cotton net which has seams joined with bobbin tape. The hand appliqued motifs on the back of the jacket are possibly Princess lace which is a type of tape lace made in Belgium in the late nineteenth and twentieth centuries. There are two types of Princess lace, one is where the tape shapes are sewn on to net and the other is where the shapes are linked together to form a type of guipure lace. This could be an example of the former known as an applique lace. Unfortunately one of the cuffs has become detached. Packaged with note: "Limerick lace bed jacket Janet Amess 1860 from Kel Bright collection with separated cuff" Packaged with note: "Machined lace bed jacket. Janet Amess 1860The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Motifs hand sewn on to machined net; bobbin tape on seams (NGV) Princess machine lace machine made motifs hand-applied Packaged with note: "Machined lace bed jacket. Janet Amess 1860. From Kel Bright Collection with separated cuff".janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, bed, jacket, garment, clothing, hand, sewn, bobbin, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Two hand written notes, 1880s
... janet amess... Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd of two children...Two notes written by Janet Amess: 1. Real Limeric Lace from...Two hand written notes Two notes written by Janet Amess: 1 ...The names of the Amess women who owned the lace are: Jane Amess (nee Straughan) – donor Unity’s great grandmother (pet name Janet, but not used as it will confuse with Unity’s mother). Jane was the wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. Frances Amess (nee Turnbull) – grandmother, married Robert Lisle Straughan Amess, 4th child of Samuel and Jane Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis, married James Jickell Unity Mary Bright (nee Jickell) was the donor, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Two notes written by Janet Amess: 1. Real Limeric Lace from Ireland. Valuable don't destroy 2. Grandmother about 1850 Third note; Written by my mother Janet Amess.Packaged with 2036 (0036)lace, churchill island, janet amess, lace collection, amess, farm -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Chemise, c 1850
... janet amess lace collection... by the grandmother of Mrs Janet Amess and dated approximately 1850... notes in Janet Amess' writing see 0036... in Janet Amess' writing see 0036 This is an elegant chemise ...This is an elegant chemise formerly owned by the grandmother of Mrs Janet Amess and dated approximately 1850. It is made of Limerick lace embroidered on to square net (which is now unprocurable) and it opens at the front. The chemise was an undergarment worn against the skin and underneath the corset therefore fine fabrics were favoured. Limerick lace originated in Ireland with tambour lace which was applied on to net using a very fine hook with chain stitch. A later development was run lace where the design was marked out on net using a needle with cotton thread. The design was then filled using darning and decorative stitches. The Limerick lace industry began in the Irish city of Limerick and blossomed in the first Golden Age of Irish lace making (1820 – 1860) before the onset of the depression and the Potato Famine. The handwritten note included with this garment clearly illustrates their ongoing interest and the value that the Amess ladies placed upon the history of lace garments.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.Limerick lace, open at front. Square net.Packed with note"Real Limerick Lace undergarment" and two notes in Janet Amess' writing see 0036lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, limerick, square net, amess, garment, undergarment, clothing -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Stole, Silk
... Packaged with note: "Hand painted silk stole from Janet... have been done. churchill island silk stole jane janet amess ...Silk is a fascinating fabric and its existence dates back to antiquity. Several kinds of wild silk produced by caterpillars other than the mulberry silkworm, have been known and spun in China, South East Asia and Europe since ancient times. The major trade route between Asia and Europe was known as the Silk Road. Commercial silk is produced from the mulberry silkworm which produces two white filaments of thread held together by a glue-like substance called sericin which hardens on the cocoon in the air. These filaments are so fine that it takes anywhere from three to ten strands to make a useable silk thread. The molecular structure of the silk is such that the surface of the woven fabric has a sheen that reflects light to give a characteristic lustrous appearance. Silken fabric feels cool against the skin yet its structure is such that it holds body heat and mosquitoes and biting insects can’t sting through it. This luxurious silk stole would have been warm over an evening gown on a cold evening. At 269cm in length and 67cm wide it would be the ultimate in comfort and appears to be hand painted with chrysanthemum style flowers leading one to assume that the silk fabric is of Chinese origin, although it is unknown when the painting would have been done.Rectangular length of white silk with hand painted pink flowers and leaves.Packaged with note: "Hand painted silk stole from Janet Amess Collection".churchill island, silk, stole, jane, janet, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Bed Jacket, Cuff, 1860
... janet amess lace collection...Packaged with note: "Limerick lace bed jacket Janet Amess... and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above. janet ...This is a fine cotton bed jacket decorated with beautiful whitework embroidery. Whitework is any type of embroidery where the threads worked are the same colour as the base fabric. It is usually worked on white linen but this could be worked on Hardanger fabric which is 22 thread count cotton. The embroidery is a combination of types but drawn thread work and Hardanger work can be clearly seen on this garment.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Bed Jacket with open frontPackaged with note: "Limerick lace bed jacket Janet Amess 1860 from Kel Bright collection with separated cuff".janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, bed, jacket, cuff, garment, clothing, princess, machine, bobbin -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Notes from donor
... janet amess lace collection... Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd of two children...1) "The effects of my Great Grandmother Janet Amess, wife... 1) "The effects of my Great Grandmother Janet Amess, wife ...The names of the Amess women who owned the lace are: Jane Amess (nee Straughan) – donor Unity’s great grandmother (pet name Janet, but not used as it will confuse with Unity’s mother). Jane was the wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. Frances Amess (nee Turnbull) – grandmother, married Robert Lisle Straughan Amess, 4th child of Samuel and Jane Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis, married James Jickell Unity Mary Bright (nee Jickell) was the donor, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.2 pieces of notepaper See photocopy Packaged with 0025-26 and 00291) "The effects of my Great Grandmother Janet Amess, wife of Samuel Amess. Dated back to 1850s-60s. Unity Bright." 2) "To whom it may concern. My apologies for the creasing, discoloration and markings but they have inevitably come with age and I hope that someone with the skills to rectify the conditions somewhat can improve them. Thank you very much. U Bright"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, notes, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Bed jacket
... janet amess lace collection... Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd of two children... and Jane Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd of two children ...The names of the Amess women who owned the lace are: Jane Amess (nee Straughan) – donor Unity’s great grandmother (pet name Janet, but not used as it will confuse with Unity’s mother). Jane was the wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. Frances Amess (nee Turnbull) – grandmother, married Robert Lisle Straughan Amess, 4th child of Samuel and Jane Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis, married James Jickell Unity Mary Bright (nee Jickell) was the donor, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.See photos (4)Packaged with note "Fine cotton bed jacket. Hand embroidered scalloped edge."janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, bed, jacket, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Note
... janet amess lace collection... Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd of two children... child of Samuel and Jane Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd ...The names of the Amess women who owned the lace are: Jane Amess (nee Straughan) – donor Unity’s great grandmother (pet name Janet, but not used as it will confuse with Unity’s mother). Jane was the wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. Frances Amess (nee Turnbull) – grandmother, married Robert Lisle Straughan Amess, 4th child of Samuel and Jane Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis, married James Jickell Unity Mary Bright (nee Jickell) was the donor, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.See photocopy. Packaged with items 0011 to 0019"To whom it may concern:- my apologies for this jumble. It is just as it was left to me and i have no knowledge as to whether there is anything of interest or not. Please do as you see fit with it. U Bright."janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, note, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Necklace
... janet amess lace collection... Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd of two children... Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd of two children ...The names of the Amess women who owned the lace are: Jane Amess (nee Straughan) – donor Unity’s great grandmother (pet name Janet, but not used as it will confuse with Unity’s mother). Jane was the wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. Frances Amess (nee Turnbull) – grandmother, married Robert Lisle Straughan Amess, 4th child of Samuel and Jane Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis, married James Jickell Unity Mary Bright (nee Jickell) was the donor, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Beaded necklacebeading, beaded, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, lace -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... janet amess lace collection... generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess ...This trim is a delicate example of tatting which is a form of knotted lace. The lace is made by hand using a small shuttle which could be made of bone, tortoiseshell, steel or more recently, plastic. The shuttle is double sided with shell like sides which point towards each other at the ends to ease passing through loops of the larks head knot which is the main stitch used in tatting. The centre of the shuttle has a shaft with the thread wound onto it. Knotted laces have been made for several centuries but tatting is believed to have originated in the 18th century by the knotting of embroidery threads in preparation for couched work. This was done by ladies to relieve the monotony of long coach journeys sometimes using a shuttle for ease of manipulation. This knotted thread could be formed into circles and stitched together using a needle and thread. In the 1870s there were two major developments, first the introduction of picots which added daintiness to the work and secondly the use of a second shuttle with a separate thread to join the loops into a pattern of circles, squares, triangles and diamonds. Needle Tatting is another form of this craft where the work is done using a needle which the same width all along including the eye. This results in a different structure and slightly thicker end result than shuttle tatting as the needle must pass through the work. There is also a version called Cro-Tatting where the craft is created using a needle with a crochet hook on the end but again the hook must be the same diameter as the needle.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Delicate length of tatted lace trim.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, tatting -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... janet amess lace collection... of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned ...Whether machine made or handmade, this length of trim is dainty and delicate in the true Valenciennes style. Circles surrounding six-petalled flowers with little spiders above and below where the circles meet, it is quite beautiful. The diamond ground is typically Valenciennes as is the pattern of flowers. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border which in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French, however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes lace, although very expensive was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the fashionable crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace. This trim is also suited to trimming a mob cap.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Valenciennes lace with floral motifs with six petals enclosed within a circular motif.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... janet amess lace collection... women. janet amess lace collection lace churchill island janet ...This length of machine embroidered insertion was most likely intended to be sewn into children’s wear, women’s undergarments and nightgowns or as an embellishment for bed linen. Fagoting is a stitch used to join two hemmed edges together or an embroidery done by pulling out horizontal threads and using the vertical stitches to decorate the gap. This fagoting is quite dainty and the satin stitch four leaved flowers add further decoration. This would have been created on an embroidery machine most likely in the early 19th century. The first known use of the word ‘fagoting’ was in 1868 and relates to small sticks of firewood tied into bundles.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Length of machine embroidered lace trim, with thick bands of plain white material and small insert of white lace.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, machine, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Crochet
... janet amess lace collection... generations of Amess women. janet amess lace collection lace churchill ...This small hand crocheted motif is a classic example of Irish crochet. It has been made to look like bobbin lace with the diamond shaped ground but with delicate picots resembling Clones knots and the flower design made with half trebles and trebles. It appears to be one motif of a series to be attached to a fabric to form a decorative edging. The hypotenuse of the triangle has plain loops for attachment whereas the other two sides have the scalloped edges with picots/Clones knots. Irish crochet was developed in the mid-19th century by the Ursuline nuns in County Cork but was soon being taught in every convent in the country. It was taught to women to give relief from poverty.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Small triangle piece of Irish crochet.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, hand, crotchet -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Fichu, C 1860
... janet amess lace collection... generations of Amess women janet amess lace collection lace churchill ...Fichu is a term used replacing the kerchief or neckerchief and comes from the French. It was worn over the shoulders to preserve modesty for low necklines or to conceal the bodice hooks or laces used for closing. This hand-made Maltese lace fichu is exquisitely worked in silk. Judging by the photos provided it is quite large and would possible used to cover evening décolletage. It appears to be around 30cm in width and about 70cm in length and being silk would be quite warm for the lady wearing it and indicate social status and wealth. Maltese lace became very popular after being displayed at the Great Exhibition in London in 1851. It began as a needle lace but Lady Hamilton Chichester imported lace makers from Genoa in the mid 1800s and converted the needle lace patterns to be worked on bobbins which made it quicker. The lace is worked on long thin lace pillows and usually includes the 8 pointed Maltese Cross in the pattern, it is made in narrow widths which are sewn together to make bigger pieces such as in this fichu. Another feature of Maltese lace is the “wheat ears” or in this case petals made of plaits or tallies. There is so much work in this piece as all of the flowers are worked so close together that they appear to be solid fabricThe Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess womenBobbin silk Maltese silk bobbin lace 6 petal tallies. Lace fichupackaged with note "Fichu Maltese Lace c 1865"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, bobbin, maltese, silk, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar, c 1865
... janet amess lace collection... women. janet amess lace collection lace churchill island janet ...The 8 pointed Maltese Cross is blatantly evident at the centre of the piece being worked in cloth stitch and the plaited tallies or “wheat ears’ form the floral surrounds. At 32cm in length it could be applied to a low necked bodice and form a v shape at the waistline however this beautiful piece appears to have been attached to the bodice at the neckline. It would have been quite elegant on a dark coloured bodice. This type of bib collar may have been originally joined to another section of lace to attach it around the neckline.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Bobbin Silk, Maltese Silk, hand made bobbin lace. Packaged with note: "Lace collar Maltese Lace"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, bobbin, maltese, silk, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Camisole, c 1870
... janet amess lace collection... women janet amess lace collection lace churchill island janet ...This delicate camisole was donated with a note enclosed stating the following : “hand embroidered cotton camisole c 1870”. However it is believed to be silk net with silk machine made lace insertions and silk hand embroidery (Lace Group Embroiderers Guild 1/3/12).The camisole came in to being in the Victorian era. The wearing of corsets to ‘improve’ body shape was mandatory and the chemise being long was considered too bulky to cover the corset. The camisole was developed being short and light and was worn over the corset and under the bodice of the outer garment. This beautiful camisole would most likely have been used under evening wear.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess womenMachine lace insertions; silk embroidery (NGV) silk net, machine embroidery (Lace Group Embroiderers Guild 1/3/12) See photos (5)Packaged with note; "hand embroidered cotton camisole c 1870"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, camisole, machine, silk, cotton, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Camisole
... janet amess lace collection... to by four generations of Amess women,. janet amess lace collection ...This may have been the camisole worn by the same bride as in 0087. It would be worn over her corset and under the bodice of her gown. This fabric must have been bought with a camisole in mind and the machine embroidery in place. It would have been embroidered on a Schiffli machine. It is interesting that the seams are hand stitched which may indicate that it was an item from a trousseau. There are ribbon insertion points along the top and bottom of the garment and although there are satin shoulder straps they could easily be tucked away or removed so that this could be worn under an off the shoulder gown. Packaged with note: "White cotton camisole hand stitched seams. Probably purchased fabric pre 1900".The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women,.Machine embroidery with small floral motifs Packaged with note: "White cotton camisole hand stitched seams. Probably purchased fabric pre 1900".janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, jane, corset, cover, machine, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Petticoat
... janet amess lace collection... and contributed to by four generations of Amess women. janet amess lace ...This elegant petticoat has been made with rows of hairpin crochet interspersed with traditional crochet. Hairpin crochet is worked over a ‘loom’ to keep all of the loops the same length. What a special wedding petticoat this is and perhaps the bride had worked it herself to keep in her ‘hope chest’ or trousseau. The thread used for this project is a machine braid. Note that this is only a half petticoat as the bride would have worn a camisole under the bodice of her gown.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women. white petticoat, with crochet trim, and a machine made elasticised waist bandPackaged with note: "Wedding petticoat. Hand crocheted. Handmade button holes. Pure cotton. Machined waist band".janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, petticoat, garment, clothing, machine, braid, crotchet -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... janet amess... and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet ...This is another machine lace made using a thicker crochet-like thread, quite possibly cotton judging by the texture. The geometric pattern has been made in the style of Torchon lace and it gives the appearance of softness and comfort. This lace is quite narrow (1.1cm) and was not made as an insertion lace but as a trim. It was most likely used as a trim on children’s underclothing and bed linen. It may have been used as a trim on a mob cap for a maid or a less senior member of the household. This machine made lace would have been made on a Barmen machine which was developed in Germany in the 1890s and was capable of making perfect copies of Torchon and other simple bobbin laces.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.Torchon machine lace, coarse crochet like thread. One fairly straight edge with picots. Other edge has clusters of elongated picots at even intervals. Geometric pattern insidechurchill island, lace, janet amess, lace collection, torchon -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
... janet amess lace collection... women - Jane, Janet and Unity. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess ...This beautiful piece has been hand embroidered with coloured thread onto a machine made net. The net would most likely have been made on a stocking frame or Heathcoat’s Bobbinet machine and the intricate handwork appears to be a mixture of needle run and tamboured embroidery. Needle run lace is simply outlined in thread and then filled in by darning and other stitches. Tamboured lace is made with a very fine metal or bone crochet hook making chain stitch with the net stretched out over a frame. Limerick lace from Ireland is just such a lace where the stitches used on the machine made net vary considerably. According to Pat Earnshaw, a British lace historian, there was one Limerick lace collar that used 47 different filling stitches. The lace industry in Limerick was started by Charles Walker in 1829 when he brought 20 girls from England to set up a lace making school. Many Irish women who learned the craft worked from home but Walker knew that he would get more consistent and cleaner work if he could oversee the work being done so he built a factory for the women. Limerick lace lost popularity after Walker died in 1842 but was revived in the late 1880s and continued to be made into the 20th century but never reached the heights of the Walker period. This delicate example is from the 1920s and was cut from a larger piece which was most likely attached to an item of sleek underwear. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.Machine made net with coloured hand embroidery. Cut from larger piecelace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, embroidery, tamboured lace, limerick lace -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
... janet amess lace collection.... lace janet amess lace collection trim amess churchill island ...This is a length of Leavers machine made lace trim (7.6 x 42cm). The body of the lace having no outline on the floral part is Valenciennes in style but with the hexagonal net and outline on the square pattern is Mechlin in nature. It is a fine example of a machine made lace which was very popular and sought after in the late 19th century as a preferred summer lace at the royal courts of Europe.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Length of lace trim, with repeating floral and geometric designs. Shorter section, appears to have been cut from a longer length.lace, janet amess lace collection, trim, amess, churchill island -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
... janet amess lace collection... and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet ...Here we have a delicate example of chemical lace which is 7.6cm x 48cm. This is an interesting method of lace making where the lace is embroidered onto a sacrificial fabric which has been treated (initially chemically treated) to dissolve in a chemical solution on completion without damaging the lace. The chemicals used were not environmentally friendly and consequently this method of lace making has developed to use water soluble base fabrics or fabrics which will disintegrate with the application of heat. A remnant of the sacrificial fabric can be seen on the top of this piece. Originally chemical lace was made on a home embroidery machine but is now also known as Schiffli Lace and made on a Schiffli machine. This machine was invented by Isaak Grobli in 1863 using the same principles as the newly invented sewing machine except that the bobbin of the sewing machine was replaced by a shuttle shaped like the hull of a sail boat, hence the name ‘schiffli’ which means ‘little boat’ in Swiss-German. The Schiffli machine uses two threads and makes a stitch similar to a closely spaced zigzag stitch on a domestic sewing machine. Over time the number of needles and shuttles increased until the present day when some machines can be up to 18 metres in length and use over a thousand needles. Previously the pattern was followed by hand using a pantograph arm where the operator followed the design pattern but the development of computer technology has meant that software designed to drive Schiffli machines can now create a wide variety of stitches and lace designs. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity (Bright - donor). Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.Length of lace trimPackage contains note: FICCHU c1860/70 (hand made) [not associated with this item]churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, trim -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Jabot
... janet amess lace collection... the course of three successive generations of women. lace janet amess ...A Jabot, from the French meaning ‘a bird’s crop’, is a decorative clothing item consisting of fabric or lace designed to fall from the throat suspended from or attached to a collar or neckband or simply pinned at the throat. Jabots made of lace were an essential male upper class fashion item in the baroque period but in the late 19th century a jabot would be a cambric or lace bib decorating women’s clothing and it would be held in place with a brooch or a sewn in neckband. This example with its exquisite chemical lace trim could possibly even be clerical in nature. Jabots continue to be worn to this day in the field of Law and in highest formal Scottish evening attire. The lace is embroidered onto a sacrificial fabric which has been treated (initially chemically treated) to dissolve in a chemical solution on completion without damaging the lace. The chemicals used were not environmentally friendly and consequently this method of lace making has developed to use water soluble base fabrics or fabrics which will disintegrate with the application of heat Originally chemical lace was made on a home embroidery machine but is now also known as Schiffli Lace and made on a Schiffli machine. This machine was invented by Isaak Grobli in 1863 using the same principles as the newly invented sewing machine except that the bobbin of the sewing machine was replaced by a shuttle shaped like the hull of a sail boat, hence the name ‘schiffli’ which means ‘little boat’ in Swiss-German. The Schiffli machine uses two threads and makes a stitch similar to a closely spaced zigzag stitch on a domestic sewing machine. Over time the number of needles and shuttles increased until the present day when some machines can be up to 18 metres in length and use over a thousand needles. Previously the pattern was followed by hand using a pantograph arm where the operator followed the design pattern but the development of computer technology has meant that software designed to drive Schiffli machines can now create a wide variety of stitches and lace designs.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Jabot with chemical lace trim.Package contains note: "FICHU c1860/70 (hand made)lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, insert, amess, jabot -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece Border on Net
... janet amess lace collection... of three successive generations of women. lace janet amess lace ...This machine made net (76cm x 38) is trimmed on the edge with a tamboured design in the style of Limerick lace. Machines were so proficient in copying handmade lace that it is very difficult to tell if the trim is done by hand or by machine. Tambour lace was the earliest form of Limerick lace and was worked in chain stitch onto machine made net using a very fine crochet hook, so fine in fact that some practitioners used a sewing needle with the eye cut out and the pointed end inserted into a wooden handle.The lace industry in Limerick was started by Charles Walker in 1829 Many Irish women who learned the craft worked from home but Walker knew that he would get more consistent and cleaner work if he could oversee the work being done so he built a factory for the women. Limerick lace lost popularity after Walker died in 1842 but was revived in the late 1880s and continued to be made into the 20th century but never reached the heights of the Walker period. If this pattern is machine made it would have been made using a Bonnaz machine which was later called a Cornely machine. Antoine Bonnaz (1836 – 1915), a silk machine engineer, produced the first successful industrial chain stitch machine. His patent was finally acquired by Ercole Cornely in Paris who developed a hook shaped needle that could make a line of chain stitches. Initially these machines were only available in northern France but they were so popular that they were eventually exported to the rest of the world and are still being produced today. This lace edging is quite fine and would only be about a centimetre in width and so would be subtle in effect, perhaps to be used on undergarments or as a fichu for day wear.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Machine made net, trimmed with tamboured design in style of Limerick lace.Note in package "LIMERICK LACE TRIMMINGS"lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Trim, Black Beaded
... janet amess lace collection... of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned ...At 11cm in width, this lavishly embroidered lace would have been used as a trim or an insertion piece for evening wear, perhaps as a trim on the bodice of an off the shoulder evening gown. It comprises two layers: a strong base possibly machine made and a fine top layer luxuriously embossed with sequins and bugle beads which was possibly done by hand. It appears to have been made using matte black silk which was known as grenadine and used on the Pusher machine which could only make the pattern and the net. The outline had to be put in by hand. Nottingham stopped making Pusher lace in the early 20th century but it continued to be made in France.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. length of black beaded trim with two layers: machine made lace with hand-stitched overlay of sequins and jet cylindrical beads in abstract designs.Packaged with note: "Black beaded trimming (hand beaded)".janet amess lace collection, churchill island, lace, sequined, amess, trim -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
... janet amess lace collection... successive generations of women. janet amess lace collection ...This sample of lace trim is Torchon lace in the Cluny style with the geometric pattern and the classic wheat ears/leaves appearing between the filled ‘v’ shapes. At 5cm in width it would be a beautiful trim or insert piece on bed linen and undergarments. It would certainly have been made on a Barmen machine. The Barmen lace machine was developed in Germany on the 1890s. Its bobbins imitated the movement of the bobbins of a handmade lace maker and it made perfect copies of Torchon and other similar bobbin laces. This style of bobbin lace was the simplest to make and therefore the cheapest lace to buy. In the Elizabethan era the wearing of lace was reserved for the nobility and anyone of lesser standing than a knight who dared to wear lace would be publicly whipped. As the years passed the restrictions lessened gradually and in the late Georgian and Victorian eras ladies of the nobility sought to perform good deeds by teaching women and girls of the poorer classes to make lace and thus it became known as beggars lace. Bobbins were expensive and use was made of animal bones and even fish bones to perform as bobbins therefore another common name was bone lace. Many noble women entered a religious order and these nuns would also teach to skill to willing participants as well as making lace for clerical garments. Although the monarchy restricted the wearing of lace for some time, many royal figures in history did a great deal to popularize it. Two noteworthy examples were Queen Adelaide (1792-1849) and Queen Victoria.(1819-1901).The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Machine made Torchon lace in Cluny style, with geometric patterns and wheat design, probably on a Barman (Swiss) machine. janet amess lace collection, churchill island, lace, trim, amess, barman, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Black Lace Front
... janet amess lace collection... family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill ...This lace front is another example of Pusher lace using matte black silk called grenadine. The head opening has yet to be cut out and the panel itself was most likely made for a specific garment possibly in a contrasting paler colour to show off the leafy pattern The Pusher machine is a variation of Heathcoat’s Bobbinet machine and was so called for the rods which pushed the carriages through the machine. There appears to be an outline on the leaves which would have had to be worked either by hand or by embroidery machine.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Rectangular section of lace with intricate leaf design and a matte circular section. Designs are reinforced with multiple layers of stitching.Packaged with note: "Black lace "Front" with neckline hole"churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Bonnet, Baby
... janet amess lace collection... - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island ...This baby bonnet is made of strips or braids of machine made torchon lace crocheted together by hand and the bonnet is lined with silk fabric. There are crocheted rosettes in place which are placed to attach the ribbons. The thread used is possibly rayon which was used from 1915, but is very difficult to distinguish from silk. The Barmen machine would have been used to create the lace strips. It was developed from a braiding machine in the 1890s in Barmen which is now part of Wuppertal in Germany. This machine makes a near perfect copy of torchon lace which it creates in cylindrical form and by strategic removal of threads is flattened into the braid strip.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Strips of machine made torchon lace in a bonnet, lined with silk, and crocheted rosettes for attachments to two lengths of silk for ties.Packaged with note; "Hand crocheted silk lined baby's bonnet" crochet, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, baby, bonnet, amess, clothing -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Bonnet, Baby
... janet amess lace collection... generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess ...This beautiful little baby bonnet is made of strips of machine made lace sewn together and attached to what appears to be a muslin cap. The lace is torchon and would have been made on a Barmen machine. It was developed from a braiding machine in the 1890s in Barmen which is now part of Wuppertal in Germany. This machine makes a near perfect copy of torchon lace which it creates in cylindrical form and by strategic removal of threads is flattened into the braid strip. These machines could only make one strip at a time and were limited to 120 threads so people used creative ways to display this type of lace. There are purple and white ribbons attached and a damaged embroidery thread around the top of the lace.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Machine made lace bonnet, with lilac ribbon and a slightly frayed blue embroidered thread.lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, baby, bonnet, amess, clothing -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Neck Piece
... janet amess lace collection... generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess ...This fine lace neck piece has been applied to the neckline of a garment meeting at the front and was designed to lay flat . Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.Neck piece with triangular scallopslace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, neck, piece, garment, clothing, amess