This handheld portable pendulum quadrant scale was used to weigh small paper items such as letters and documents, powdered chemicals or metals like gold, and animal fleece samples. This mechanical scale can weigh up to a maximum of 10 ounces, which is about 285 grams or one-and-a-half cups of brown sugar. The operator holds the scale’s ring and connects the item to be weighed onto the wire clip. The weight of the item causes the pendulum to pivot, and the scale measures the weight of the object, indicated by the arrow. This scale belonged to Dr William Roy Angus and is now part of Flagstaff Hill’s comprehensive W.R. Angus Collection, donated by the family of Dr W R Angus, 1901-1970, surgeon and oculist. The W.R. Angus Collection: - The W.R. Angus Collection includes historical medical equipment, surgical instruments and material belonging to Dr Edward Ryan and Dr Thomas Francis Ryan, (both of Nhill, Victoria) and Dr Angus’ own belongings. The Collection’s history spans the medical practices of the two Doctors Ryan, from 1885-1926 plus that of Dr Angus, up until 1969. It includes historical medical and surgical equipment and instruments from the doctors Edward and Thomas Ryan of Nhill, Victoria. Dr Angus married Gladys in 1927 at Ballarat, the nearest big city to Nhill where he began as a Medical Assistant. He was also Acting House surgeon at the Nhill hospital where their two daughters were born. During World War II He served as a Military Doctor in the Australian Defence Force. Dr Angus and his family moved to Warrnambool in 1939, where Dr Angus operated his own medical practice. He later added the part-time Port Medical Officer responsibility and was the last person appointed to that position. Both Dr Angus and his wife were very involved in the local community, including the planning stages of the new Flagstaff Hill and the layout of the gardens there. Dr Angus passed away in March 1970.This letter scale is the only one of its type in our collection. It is an example of objects belonging to Dr. W. R. Angus, 1901-1970, surgeon and oculist. The W.R. Angus Collection is significant for still being located at the site it is connected with, Doctor Angus being the last Port Medical Officer in Warrnambool. The Collection includes historical medical objects that date back to the late 1800s.Letter scale, a handheld quadrant fixed pendulum scale made from silver-plated metal. This small weighing instrument is shaped like a quarter-circle with a metal ring, a fixed pendulum counterweight and a decorative pivoting arrow indicator. A hanger clip is attached to a short arm of the scale. Measurements are embossed on the arc of the circle, labelled in ounces (oz) and ranging from 0 to 10 at unequal distances apart. The scale is part of the W.R. Angus Collection.Scale measurements, "OZ" (ounces), "0 /14 1/2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 "flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime village, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, great ocean road, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, dr w r angus, mira hospital, w.r. angus collection, scale, weighing instrument, measure weight, postal scale, chemist scale, letter, weigh, post, office, quadrant scale, letter scale, handheld, portable, mechanical scale, pendulum scale, fixed balance scale

View looking north along Main Road, Eltham from near present day Dudley Street. On the immediate left is the railway station. The large weatherboard building on the bend (opposite present-day Arthur Street) with signs for General Store, Refreshments and Summer Drinks painted on the side is Luther and Ada Haley’s General Store and Bakery, built 1902. This was the first building in what is now Eltham’s present shopping town centre. Haley previously ran the General Store and Bakery on the corner of Main Road and York Street until his lease expired and the premises were bought by Mrs Sarah Burgoyne in 1902. The store later was known as Staff's Store. Followed by the saleyards, entrance to station, slaughter yard and William J Capewell’s butcher shop. Contained within the saleyards facing the street, a small shelter with the name H.H. Clark upon it. Horace Harold Clark was the son of Eltham State School’s first Head Teacher, David George Clark. As well as being a farmer, he was an Estate Agent and conducted auction sales, presumably from this shelter. On the eastern (right) side of Main Street is Haley’s Paddock, which was used on occasions for community picnics. Capable of holding 10,000 people, with ample shade and hilly surroundings it was an ideal place for any community gathering such as the State Schools’ Picnic in 1904. A worker from the bakery store is standing in the gateway at the rear of the store observing the photographer. People in the ‘Sunday Best’ are milling in front of the bakery or strolling down the centre of Main Road. The picture was most likely taken on a Sunday. With the opening of the railway to Eltham in 1902, Melbourne residents would regularly enjoy a Sunday excursion journey on the train to Eltham for a day’s outing to the countryside or beyond to Hurstbridge from 1912 when the railway was extended. Picture dated as c.1910 based on similar picture published in the Weekly Times, Feb. 1912. Cross Ref: 609 (looking south), 612, 611 (later stage), 613.Negative black and white film 120 6x9 format 2 stripsAgfa APX 100baker, butcher, eltham, eltham railway station, eltham sale yards, eltham slaughter yard, eltham town centre, general store, haley's paddock, hot water, luther haley, luther haley general store, m.m. clark, main road, railway station, shire of eltham pioneers photograph collection, shops, sign, staffs general store, summer drinks, w.j. capewell

The ES49 glider / sailplane was designed by Edmund Schneider in Germany before he migrated to Australia in the early 1950s. In Germany the ES49 was put into limited production by the Schleicher factory from 1951 to 1953 (8 produced). In Australia the ES49 is commonly referred to as the “Wallaby”; two were built by the Adelaide Soaring Club with assistance from Edmund Schneider Ltd and one independently from plans by Eric Hader and members of the Cooma Gliding Club. The Museum’s ES49 – serial number GFA-HB-36 - was built at Gawler from 1955 to 1958 and registered as VH-GLL on 15 January 1959. It was the second of the ES49s built by the Adelaide Soaring Club. Originally it had a rather distinctive appearance due to the use of a sleek P51 Mustang canopy to enclose the forward seating position of the cockpit. The glider, together with its sister VH-GDK, was used at the Gliding Federation of Australia National Gliding Schools at Gawler. In 1964 the glider was transferred to the Newcastle Gliding Club, Newcastle, in New South Wales and then in 1966 it went to the Albury and District Gliding Club, Albury, New South Wales. The Snowy Mountains Gliding Club, Khancoban, New South Wales acquired the glider in 1968 where it remained until 1974. In 1974 the glider transferred into private hands at Wodonga, Victoria, for two years and then to interests at Albury until 1985. At that stage the glider was acquired by a private owner at Bathurst, New South Wales, who undertook a restoration that included, amongst other work, the fitting of a more conventional cockpit canopy. The glider was at Warkworth, New South Wales in 1992 and became to be owned by Eric Oates who preserved it until he donated it to the Australian Gliding Museum. According to the logbook for VH-GLL held by the Museum, the glider was last flown in November 1990 and at that time had logged 2758 hours and 57 minutes from 15775 launches. The fuselage is currently under restoration at the Museum’s Dave Darbyshire workshop. The ES49 – VH-GLL – is an example of the state of wood and fabric dual place sailplane design in the late 1940s. The glider served the Adelaide Soaring Club and subsequent owners well as a training and general purpose sailplane over many years. It is a rare example of the type (one of 4 existing in the world). Tandem two seat high wing strut braced glider-sailplane finished in silver grey colour scheme.australian fliding, glider, sailplane, schneider, es 49, wallaby, oats, adelaide soaring club, hader, cooma gliding club, newcastle gliding club, albury & district gliding club, snowy mountains gliding club

This black and white mage depicts large group of men dressed in military uniform of the Light Horse - with most wearing bandoliers and slouch hat, some with emu plumes. The 13th Light Horse Regiment was formed at Broadmeadows in Victoria in March 1915; it was the third light horse regiment to have been raised in that state. Its regimental number quickly led to it becoming known as the "Devil's Own" regiment. It left Australia on 28 May and disembarked in Egypt on 29 June 1915. In 1921, Australia's part-time military forces were re-organised to perpetuate the numerical designations of the AIF following its demobilisation. Through this process, the 13th Light Horse was re-raised as a Citizens Forces unit in Victoria, adopting the territorial designation of the "Gippsland Light Horse". In 1939, the regiment was amalgamated with the 19th Light Horse to become the 13th/19th Light Horse.In August 1940, during the opening stages of the Second World War, the 13th was re-formed in its own right. It was later mechanised and re-designated the "13th Motor Regiment". In May 1942, it was converted into an armoured regiment – designated as the "13th Armoured Regiment" – as part of the 2nd Armoured Division's 6th Armoured Brigade, which had been formed for defensive duties to guard against a possible invasion of mainland Australia. After moving to Puckapunyal in July, the regiment was equipped with M3 Grant tanks. Further training was undertaken in Murgon, Queensland, throughout 1943. By that time, manpower within the Army was scarce and as the threat of an invasion by the Japanese diminished during the year, so too did the need for large-scale armoured forces. A number of armoured units were subsequently disbanded as men and equipment were reallocated as the Army reorganised for jungle warfare. As a result, the 13th was disbanded in October 1943. In the post war period, the unit was perpetuated by the 8th/13th Victorian Mounted Rifles, which existed between 1948 and 1991–92. During WWI three light horse regiments were raised in Victoria for the AIF, the 4th ALH, the 8th ALH and the 13th ALH. These regiments served with distinction at Gallipoli, in the Middle East and on the Western Front.Wide and narrow rectangle shaped black painted frame with gold colour mount and four silver metal screws in each corner. The frame contains a black and white photograph depicting a large group of men dressed in military uniform with bandoliers and slouch hat, some with emu plumes. A small black strip of plastic is attached in the centre of lower edge.Front - 13th Light Horse Rear - 2nd Division Cavalry School Broadmeadows 20-09-1935victoria, 13th light horse

David Gordon Collection. There were four banks in Tarnagulla at one stage, but two - the National Bank and the Bank of Australasia - were open for a short period only. The single-storey brick building at far left was built in 1859 and used by the Union Bank until 1888, and was later renamed 'Lochcarron' and used as premises by doctors and dentists. The two-storey building (right) was built in 1866 by the Colonial Bank of Australasia. Before this, the site had been occupied by Foo's shop. Whilst it was being built, the Colonial Bank operated from Company's Hotel (later known as Burstall Hall and the Council Chambers). The double-storey building in this image was used by the Colonial Bank from 1866 until 21st February, 1888. The premises were sold to the Union Bank for £2500. The Union Bank moved in and commenced operations on 6th June 1888, continuing until 1942. The building was later used as a general store until the 1990s. Both buildings are now private residences. This image was created by Aime Marchand in June 1866. Marchand (1846-1910) made a series of fourteen photographs which were submitted to the 1866-67 Melbourne Intercolonial Exhibition, where they earned a 1st Class Honourable Mention. This is one of those fourteen images. Of French or Belgian origin and possibly formerly an assayer in California, Marchand appears to have begun his practice of photography in Tarnagulla around 1865 as an assistant to A.B. Clay. By the following year he had settled in Portland, where he opened the Royal Photographic Studio in Gawler Street. From his base in Portland he toured surrounding districts, offering portrait and view services. Little else is known about his life. He appears to have left Australia in 1878. A misprint of his name in a local directory as Annie Marchand created the misconception that he was one of only a few named women photographers in the colonies.

The Fred Rochow Railways Collection incorporates photos related to the operation of the Wodonga Railway Station including different types of trains and railways staff C. 1930 – 1990. It was donated to the Wodonga Historical Society by Fred Rochow, a railwayman who spent many years based in Wodonga. He joined the Victorian Railways on 17th June l947 and retired in 1988. For some time, he was a member of the Australian Federated Union of Locomotive Enginemen and served a term as a member of the Trades Hall Council. He had an extensive knowledge of the struggles that took place to achieve better conditions for railway workers. Fred worked for many years as a fireman and then worked his way up the ranks to driver, experiencing many changes from the days of steam locomotives through to diesel trains, locomotives and even the modern XPT train. He worked throughout Victoria at different stages of his career, with his final working years focused on the northeast of Victoria and the Albury to Melbourne line. After his retirement, Fred continued to share his love of steam miniature trains with the community. S Class Diesel Locomotives The eighteen members of the S Class were ordered in two batches by the Victorian Railways from Clyde Engineering for express passenger and freight workings, with the final eight locomotives ordered specifically to work the North-East standard gauge line. Many were named after prominent Victorians. S315 entered service on 16 October 1961 and was named after Sir Charles Gavan Duffy who was an Irish poet and journalist, Young Irelander and tenant-rights activist. After emigrating to Australia in 1856 he entered the politics of Victoria on a platform of land reform, and in 1871-72 served as the colony's 8th Premier. The S315 pulled the first goods train to travel straight through from Sydney to Melbourne on 3 January 1962. The S315 was withdrawn from service on 22 August 1988 and scrapped in April 1992.This collection has local and statewide significance as it captures images of trains, locomotives and personnel who operated the railway services in Wodonga and throughout Northeast Victoria. The railways played a critical role in opening up Victoria and connecting Australia for trade, business, social communication and transport.Harry Binder being congratulated by Commissioner Edgar Brownbill on the arrival of the first standard gauge goods train at North Dynon Terminal, The Fireman was John Wortmann.railways wodonga, fred rochow, wodonga railway men, harry binder, s class locomotive

The Garryowen Perpetual Trophy is awarded annually to the winner of one of the most prestigious equestrienne events in Australia, the Garryowen Equestrienne Turnout. The competition is named after three-time Royal Melbourne Show champion saddle horse, GARRYOWEN, whose owner Violet Murrell died tragically whilst trying to save GARRYOWEN from a stable fire in 1934. A Heroine of Racing Mrs Violet Murrell of Melbourne, was a heroine who died trying to save her horses when the racing stables burned. The reason for her rescue attempt was twofold; she was both trying to retrieve an asset and was rescuing an animal from its agony. The heart of the racing world in Melbourne went out to Murrell and trainers, jockeys, and stable-boys came in crowds to her funeral. 'In the racing stables, in truth, the horse and the man are part of each other; and Mrs Murrell's name, with the manner of her death, will live as a tradition in the fraternity of men and horses to which she belonged'. (Sun, Sydney, Sunday 1 April 1934, p. 4) Began with a fire This trophy began as a tribute to a brave woman who risked and lost her life trying to rescue her horses and dog from a fire in 1934. It has become the premier turnout event for horsewomen in Australia. The idea came from a gathering at the Police Depot in St Kilda Road Melbourne, where friends of Violet discussed how to remember her and her beloved horse GARRYOWEN. The event was first staged at the 1934 Royal Melbourne Show. The public, through the Sporting globe newspaper, contributed to the cost of buying the 12 inch bronze statuette which is a perpetual trophy. The winner is also presented with a blue sash fastened with a small photograph of Mrs Murrell riding GARRYOWEN. Jockey, jumper, show ring rider Violet Murrell was 29 years old when she died. She had a career as a flat-race jockey riding and winning against men. She was also a successful jumps jockey. (Mandy Bede)A bronze horse statuette mounted on a slab of marble and a wooden base with metal plates.trophy, horses in action, horses, melbourne royal horses in action competition, prizes, turnout, blue ribbon competitions, murrell, violet murrell, garryowen, garryowen perpetual trophy, garryowen equestrienne turnout

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

Kindly scanned from Ringwood Branch archival collectionTranscript (kindly completed by Ken Briscoe using ChatGPT) RINGWOOD BRANCH COUNTRY WOMEN'S ASSOCIATION INC. February 13, 1946 in the Ringwood Town Hall, the Mayoress, Mrs. H.E. Parker, called the meeting and Ringwood Branch Country Women's Association was formed, and would be in the Yarra Valley Group. Speaker for the day was Mrs. Wray, Group President, Yarra Valley Group. Office bearers elected were: • Mrs. Greenshields (President) • Mrs. Shields (Secretary) • Mrs. Roberts (Treasurer) At the inaugural meeting, 93 ladies joined, and the first general meeting of the Ringwood Branch was held March 7, 1946, and by the end of August the membership grew to 160. In 1946 the joining fee was 4/- and you never attended a meeting unless you wore hat and gloves. The first year, meetings were held in the main Town Hall, then they were transferred to the small hall, which had a creche next door, at the baby health centre, where mothers could leave their little ones, while mum enjoyed the meetings, demonstrations or entertainment. The Branch had a very good Choir, conducted by Mrs. Dorrie Davidson, also a very talented theatrical group. Each birthday they put on excellent stage shows, some beautiful costumes being hired from well-known Melbourne theatrical company. The 1956 Olympic stage show had some well-trained, but out of form, athletes. Highlight of the year was the Annual Ball and two Debutante Balls. New branches were formed in the district, Everard, East Ringwood, Heathmont, South Warrandyte. There was also, Ringwood Younger set, a night branch (later years was renamed Marana). It was then that our membership dropped. As more and more branches were started in the district, Ringwood was then allocated to the newly formed Maroondah Highway Group. Craft classes and demonstrations were of a high standard, with some interesting things being made such as millinery, dressmaking, pottery, etc. In 1960 when Ringwood was made a City, a C.W.A. float was entered in the procession, this was a mammoth task, as hundreds of flowers were made and wired to the float, which was in green and gold C.W.A. colours. The time came when the Town Hall was to be demolished, and we moved to the Church of England Hall, Civic Place, but after a short time, this hall was also demolished. Meetings were then held at Ringwood Library until the library was no longer available. Our last move was to our present meeting room at Lionswood. Today you dress as you wish and membership is $12.00. The Ringwood Branch in 1995 has 2 life members and 21 members. Alice Milner March 15, 1995 As a matter of interest, of those 160 members who joined in the first year, only one active member is left with the Branch

Geoff Biddington took numerous photos around Ballarat and District. He was an active member of the Ballarat Branch of the National Trust. 48 black and white photographs of Ballarat buildings. 1. National Bank, Buninyong 2. Gas Light Standard, Geelong Road, Mount Clear 3. Water Hydrant 4. Former Police Station, Camp Street 5. Cast Iron Drinking Fountain, Eureka Stockade 6. Buninyong Gold Discovery Monument 7. Ballarat Old Cemetery Gates 8. Ballarat East Post office 9. Carriers Arms, Doveton Street North 10. North Star Hotel, Lydiard Street North 11.Lake View Hotel 12. Former Ballarat Gaol, Gate Two 13. Beaufort House 14. Smythesdale Post Office 15. Ballan Timber Building 16. National Mutual Building, Sturt Street 17. Craig's Hotel Doors 18. Her Majesty's Theatre Stage 19 & 20. Ballarat Botanical Gardens Statuary House 21 & 22. Stonemason at work 23. Methodist Church School (1867) Humffray Street 24 & 25. Methodist Church, Brown Hill 26. Queen St Statue,Sturt Street 27-29. Sturt Street Fountain 30. Moore Statue, Sturt Street 31. Hede Statue, Sturt Street 32. George V Statue (Victor Greenhalgh), Sturt Street 33-35. Peter Lalor Statue, Sturt Street 36. Art Deco Statue, Sturt Street 37. Beaufort Bandstand 38. Ranger Barracks, Curtis Street, Ballarat 39. Smeaton Mill and Bridge 40. Hepburn Graveyard, Smeaton 41-45 - Ballarat Tram Ride (possibly last) 46-48. Taking up the Ballarat Tram Tracks, 1967 .49. Melbourne House, Sebastopolgeoff biddington, biddington, buninyong, mount clear, police, gold, cemetery, hotels, ballarat gaol, beaufort house, smythesdale, ballan, theatre, statue, statues, statuary, peter lalor, ranger barracks, smeaton mill, smeaton bridge, hepburn, tram, sebastopol, craig's, her majesty's theatre, smeaton, hepburn graveyard, gold monument, queen victoria statue, ballarat, foodland, ballarat, ballarat buildings, former eagle hotel, former ballarat police station, gold discovery, craig's hotel, buninyong gold discovery obelisk

a & b/ Grand Variety Concert, Kiwanis Club of Bendigo. J B Osborne Theatre, Kangaroo Flat, Bendigo. 7.30pm Saturday, 4th September 1993. What Is A Kiwanian? A Kiwanian is a person of good character who adheres to the standards of good conduct in the community and believes . .. Kiwanis Club of Bendigo All the performers in tonight's program have given. .. The Kiwanis Story Kiwanis was founded in Detroit, Michigan, USA. January 21, 1915. The name 'Kiwanis' is taken from an Indian term 'Nun Kiwanis', which roughly means 'Self Expression'. .. Acknowledgements: Official Accompanist - Leila Watson, Stage Manager - Rod Symes, Sound System - Bendigo Audio Productions, Ticket Sales - Collins Booksellers, News Media - Bendigo Advertiser, Lighting - David Wilkinson. Coca Cola Operations. Underprivileged Children, A Kiwanis Concern. Program, Alan Douglas, President, Kiwanis Club, Bendigo. Bendigo Youth Orchestra - Conducted by Daniel Herbst. Valerie Broad Melodic Memories. Sandhurst Drummers - Drum Song. Shantelle Ackland - Grace and Beauty. Aaron Shelton - Tapping Tempo. Neil Cox - Keyboard Carousel. Carlie Sutton and Christy Brain - Boogie Woogie. Tatiana Macura & Alison Grenfell - Voices In Spring. Jack Paynting & Norm Fildew - Comedy Capers. Mi Casa Singers - Harvest of Harmony. Sung-a-long 'You in my Eyes' Lyrics: Rick Norris, Music: Ron Kruze. Bendigo Gym Centre - Creating Magic in the Air, Trainer John Palmer. Janine Giri - Vocal 'Feat'. Estelle Randall - Terse Verse. Kathryn & Christopher Field - Music Maestros. Christy Brain & Carlie Sutton - Beauty & Ballet. Nadine Ellery - 'Dream Time'. Jonathan Cox - Magic of Music. Anton Theatrical Dance Company - Sound of C. Compere: Valerie Broad. Advertisement: Gillies, Pies & Pasties. ''Get me a Gillies''.program, theatre, grand variey concert, kiwanis, a & b/ grand variety concert, kiwanis club of bendigo. j b osborne theatre, kangaroo flat, bendigo. 7.30pm saturday, 4th september 1993. what is a kiwanian?. .. kiwanis founded in detroit, michigan, usa., 1915. the name 'kiwanis' is taken. ..: official accompanist - leila watson, stage manager - rod symes, sound system - bendigo audio productions, collins booksellers, news media - bendigo advertiser, lighting - david wilkinson. coca cola operations. underprivileged children, a kiwanis concern. program, alan douglas, president, kiwanis club, bendigo. bendigo youth orchestra - conducted by daniel herbst. valerie broad melodic memories. sandhurst drummers - drum song. shantelle ackland - grace and beauty. aaron shelton - tapping tempo. neil cox - keyboard carousel. carlie sutton and christy brain - boogie woogie. tatiana macura & alison grenfell - voices in spring. jack paynting & norm fildew - comedy capers. mi casa singers - harvest of harmony. sung-a-long 'you in my eyes' lyrics: rick norris, music: ron kruze. bendigo gym centre - creating magic in the air, trainer john palmer. janine giri - vocal 'feat'. estelle randall - terse verse. kathryn & christopher field - music maestros. christy brain & carlie sutton - beauty & ballet. nadine ellery - 'dream time'. jonathan cox - magic of music. anton theatrical dance company - sound of c. compere: valerie broad. gillies, pies & pasties. ''get me a gillies''.

Louisa Thomas married Henry Gipps (1837-91)in 1863. They had six sons and two daughters. While Louisa and Henry Gipps were to die in Sussex, two of their sons, Frederick George De Visme Gipps (1867-1953) and Richard Brook Woodthorpe Gipps (c.1872-1946) migrated to Queensland, possibly bringing with them their mother’s sketchbook.The collection of artworks that are included in the sketchbook are often of outstanding aesthetic and artistic significance. In the variety of subject matter and the geographical places represented, it is historically significant as a document recording the postings of Colonel Henry Gipps, 9th Norfolk Regiment, and his wife Louisa to locations in the Mediterranean and West Asia. The large bound sketchbook has a marbled cover with blue binding. The name Louisa Goulburn Thomas and the date 1862 are faintly inscribed in pencil on the front page. However the book contains pen and ink and pencil drawings, watercolours, and photographs, which both predate and postdate 1862. The approximately 75 works are loose-leafed items and [currently] do not form a chronological, geographical or thematic sequence. Creators identified on some drawings and watercolours include Mary Julia Wilder Thomas, JFV Wright, ELG (Edward Louis de Bondell Gipps?), L Nicholson, Bertha Isadore Thomas, and HG (Henry Gipps?). Many of the works are signed and dated, and include rural landscapes and seascapes, archaeological sites, animal studies, and portraits. While most of the works were created in the British Isles, others are scenes of Venice, the Ionian Islands, Cape Town, Hong Kong and Japan. [A number of the ‘oriental’ paintings on silk were probably purchased from local artists.] The art works in the book are at various stages of completion and represent a diverse range of artistic skills. What may be the earliest work in the sketchbook is a drawing of three uniformed soldiers. An annotation on the reverse records that the drawing is of a Group of Soldiers after [Philipp Jakob] de Southerbourg 1830. The birth of Louisa Thomas' oldest son, William Henry Houston Meyrick Gipps (1864-1903) in Corfu perhaps explains why a number of scenes and items in the album are of the Ionian Islands. Louisa is probably the creator of a number of still life and botanical studies in the album. These range from floral studies to a bird’s nest. The painting of objects was to remain a socially ‘approved’ specialty of amateur and professional women artists into the 20th century. The complete contents of the album will be uploaded to accompany this record. Some items may be published separately on Victorian Collections, but will acknowledge their origins in the sketchbook."Louisa Goulburn Thomas / 1862"victorian sketchbooks, manuscripts - kew historical society, 9th norfolk regiment, rosemary (gipps) vaughan smith, vaughan-smith collection

K2,3 and4 are of the Kiewa River and two of the bridges spanning the river along the valley. K3 and K4 would have been taken in the 1880's and show the type of trees and plant growth along the river prior to land clearing for farming. K5 is of the Running Creek Cricket Team and therefore there was sufficient population in the area to form and maintain a team as well as have other teams in the relatively near vicinity to provide competition. Note the horse drawn cart which provided transport. Date taken is unknown but possibly c 1910. The Mt. Buffalo Chalet was built in 1910 by the Victorian Government. It was Australia's first ski resort and has served generations of skiiers, hikers and families over the years. It was built for 3195 pounds and has had stories and wings added since and is the largest timber building in Australia. B4 is the earliest photo in this group as the garden is in early stages of development - the other photos show the growth of the shrubs and would be taken about c 1920. Note the cars and motor bikes. It closed in 2006. The other photos are of general interest only but interesting to see that there were donkey's grazing. There is no information as to their purpose on Mt. Buffalo. Four different Kiewa Valley families are represented in the photographs. Their descendants still live in the Valley and carry on the traditions of beef and dairy farming. Of particular interest is the photo of Miss Marjorie Clemence, the first School Teacher of Upper Gundowring School. Gundowring pastoral run was taken up in 1838 and occupied by framers in the 1860's. The area was known as Gundowring and Upper Gundowring. The Gundowring School was opened in 1871 and most likely the Upper Gundowring school would be built at the same time. It was School No. 2733 and situated in Boyd Road. It closed in 1953 when the Kiewa Consolidated School opened. The newspaper page describes the activities in which the local community of Kergunyah were in engaged in that period - Red Cross, Fire Brigade, cattle round up and some of the identities involved. The article photocopied from the Yackandandah times states that he (Norman Coad) "was sent to the Ovens District Hospital, Beechworth for treatment" which would mean that this was the closest hospital to the Kiewa Valley for emergencies in 1912.The Kiewa Valley photographs are of social significance showing two of the early bridges allowing the community easy access to both sides of the river and also the tree and plant growth before land clearing for farming. The photos of Mt. Buffalo Chalet have social, architectural and historical significance. the Chalet has been used by skiers, bush walkers and day trippers since its completion in 1910 and its closure in 2006. It is listed in the Victorian Heritage Register. The family photographs are of social and historical significance as they are of early farming families in the Kiewa Valley and also depict the dress, of both men and women) in the late 1880's. The write up in the Weekly Times has social significance as it depicts the social and farming activities and photos of the local residents from around that area. The article from the Yackandandah Times is of a personal nature with concern for the individual involved. Note: There is a photo of the gentleman mentioned in the article (Mr. Norman Coad) in the Families of the Kiewa Valley (F4) as above.30 black and white photographs - 5 of the Kiewa Valley, 8 of families of the Kiewa Vallley and 17 of Mt. Buffalo. Various sized photos. Page from the Weekly times and copied article from the Yackandandah Times on A4 sheet.(Note for easier identification they have been numbered and grouped - K1-5 (Kiewa Valley), F1-8 (Families) and B1-17 (Mt. Buffalo). K1: handwritten in ink, lower L hand corner "Bogong in the distance". K2: handwritten in ink lower L hand corner "Mongan's Bridge or Towonga". K3 handwritten in ink "Taken from Mongan Bridge looking up stream". K4 - no inscription. K5: handwritten in ink, back of photo "Running Creek Cricket Team". F1: handwritten in ink on back "Mrs. Heap" and lower down in pencil "1880's". F2 handwritten in pencil at top of back phot "Land at Tawonga TROVE The Y'dah Times 20/2/1913" and lower down in ink "Henry Ellis Larkin". F3: handwritten in ink bottom edge "Mrs Coad". Note that this photo is a postcard. F4: Written in ink lower edge "Norman Coad". Note this photo is also a postcard. F5: Lower left corner in Ink "Harry Larkin". F6: lower half back of photo, in ink "Bernie Maddison". F7: on back of photograph in ink "Miss Marjorie Clemence first School Teacher Upper Gundowring: and underneath, in pencil "C1880's". F8: Handwritten in ink on back of photo "Frank & Mrs. Keat & Lesley of Tawonga". Lower down in pencil "c1912-1914". B1: Back of photo in ink "The Chalet Mt. Buffalo". B2: no inscription. B3: "chalet at Bufflo" in ink lower left corner. B4: This is a post card. Written in ink is "Mt. Buffalo Chalet". B5 - B10 printed in ink, lower left corner "Buffalo". B11: no inscription. B12: "Mt. Buffalo" lower R corner. B13: "Buffalo?". B15: Printed in ink lower edge "Picnic at Buffalo". B16: "Donkeys on Mt. Buffalo" printed in ink lower edge. B17: handwritten in ink across back of photo "Donkeys & top of Mt. Buffalo with the Monileith in the distance". A4 sheet of paper describing an accident to Mr. Norman Coad. Under article is : Yackandandah Times (Vic: 1890 - 1931), Thursday 18 July 1912, page 3. A page torn from the Weekly Times, June 14, 1961 and entitled "Kergunyah has picturesque setting". kiewa valley, farming, families, kergunyah, gundowring upper, mt. buffalo chalet, briggs family, larki family, coad family, clemence family, laskowski collection

Jarrold Cottage or White Cloud is known by many to be associated with the Skipper family, and has been since 1944 when Lena Skipper, wife of Mervyn Skipper purchased the cottage. She purchased it from the Estate of Thekla Jarrold who had died in March of the previous year. By the time Thekla died, she had lived in the Jarrold Cottage for 50 years. Thekla Alvenia Sissilia Ellian married John William Jarrold in 1888 at Clifton Hill. They started their family there but when John’s father William (who was married to Hannah Coleman) died in 1893 the family moved to Eltham. William had married Hannah Coleman in 1856 at his home in Eltham. William had arrived in the colony in 1848 so it is believed the Jarrold Cottage goes back at least to 1856 and possibly early 1850s. For a short period of time the cottage was rented to the Police as a temporary Police Station whilst a new and more permanent station was built further up the hill in 1859. The cottage was originally located closer to the Diamond Creek but was subject to flooding so was relocated to its present position on top a mound of rubble placed there from the nearby quarry next to the Dalton Street school (on Main Road). By 1916, John Henry Clark, a photographer who took many early photos of Eltham relocated from Fitzroy to Eltham and boarded with recently widowed Thekla Jarrold and her family. He changed professions from photographer to boot and harness maker around 1931 and Thekla had a small bootmakers shop built ifor him in the corner of her property next to the family home. J.H. Clark remained living at the property until his death in December 1956. At some stage after Clark's death, Lena Skipper is recorded living at the property having relocated from Montsalvat following the death of her husband Mervyn. The property continues to remain within the Skipper family as of 2023. Covered under Heritage Overlay, Nillumbik Planning Scheme. Published: Nillumbik Now and Then /​ Marguerite Marshall 2008; photographs Alan King with Marguerite Marshall.; p47This collection of almost 130 photos about places and people within the Shire of Nillumbik, an urban and rural municipality in Melbourne's north, contributes to an understanding of the history of the Shire. Published in 2008 immediately prior to the Black Saturday bushfires of February 7, 2009, it documents sites that were impacted, and in some cases destroyed by the fires. It includes photographs taken especially for the publication, creating a unique time capsule representing the Shire in the early 21st century. It remains the most recent comprehenesive publication devoted to the Shire's history connecting local residents to the past. nillumbik now and then (marshall-king) collection, bootmaker's shop, hannah coleman, jarrold cottage, john henry clark, john william jarrold, lena skipper, police station, thekla alvenia sissilia jarrold (nee ellian), white cloud cottage, william jarrold

Margaret Woodward is a an artist and an an associate professor of design at Charles Sturt University. Artist statement: "The Sea is All Around us is a multi-layered event which creates a memorable experience for those visiting the Dome Gallery and the Mission to Seafarers in Melbourne’s Docklands. The event acknowledges and raises awareness of the often difficult and dangerous working lives and journeys of seafarers by making visible their role in transporting commodities, materials and objects to and from Australia’s shores. This installation at the Dome Gallery in the Mission to Seafarers in Melbourne’s Docklands marks the third stage of an ongoing research project which seeks to reveal the ‘social life’ of souvenirs. Beyond their representational role souvenirs also trigger intangible, affective qualities – reminders of journeys and places, new associations with tastes, sounds and people, and thereby becoming objects which focus and hold memories. This installation invites seafarers and visitors to participate in a global project which aims to witness sea journeys and trace the mobile life of seafarers and souvenirs. For a fortnight in May 2015, the Dome Gallery became an architectural large scale compass, with the circular floor marking the intersection of its latitude and longitude (37 º 49'21" S 144º 57'03"E). Over these two weeks the Dome Gallery was inscribed with marks recording journeys made by seafarers, recording destination and departure ports, home lands and waterways, and in doing so making visible a small segment of the global patterns of seafaring. Custom-made souvenirs designed for the installation are given to seafarers as gestures of welcome and a memento of their visit. The souvenirs originating in Poland continue their journey by sea, to destinations beyond the Dome becoming part of the global network of seafaring, with an invitation for seafarers to record their future journeys using QR code scanning technologies. It is hoped that by releasing the 200 limited edition souvenirs accompanying the seafarers the mobile life of souvenirs and seafarers will also become visible. Like messages in bottles they leave our shores, becoming ambassadors, representing the Dome Gallery at the Mission to Seafarers, the waters of Port Phillip Bay, Australia’s red soil and vegetation, and carrying memories of visiting Melbourne." The Mission has always been open to the community and has a tradition of hosting cultural events: shows, concerts, exhibitions, festivals.Orange enamel and teal mug created for the art installation by artist Margaret Woodward at the Mission to Seafarers. On one side it is decorated with a compass and a latitude and longitude; on the opposite side, a leaf, a QR code on the bottom takes you to the website.Written at the bottom of the mug: Please scan to map the journey of this souvenir * www.sensingtheremote.net *2015cultural events, norla dome, mso, 2015, art installation, margaret woodward

Margaret Woodward is a an artist and an an associate professor of design at Charles Sturt University. Artist statement: "The Sea is All Around us is a multi-layered event which creates a memorable experience for those visiting the Dome Gallery and the Mission to Seafarers in Melbourne’s Docklands. The event acknowledges and raises awareness of the often difficult and dangerous working lives and journeys of seafarers by making visible their role in transporting commodities, materials and objects to and from Australia’s shores. This installation at the Dome Gallery in the Mission to Seafarers in Melbourne’s Docklands marks the third stage of an ongoing research project which seeks to reveal the ‘social life’ of souvenirs. Beyond their representational role souvenirs also trigger intangible, affective qualities – reminders of journeys and places, new associations with tastes, sounds and people, and thereby becoming objects which focus and hold memories. This installation invites seafarers and visitors to participate in a global project which aims to witness sea journeys and trace the mobile life of seafarers and souvenirs. For a fortnight in May 2015, the Dome Gallery became an architectural large scale compass, with the circular floor marking the intersection of its latitude and longitude (37 º 49'21" S 144º 57'03"E). Over these two weeks the Dome Gallery was inscribed with marks recording journeys made by seafarers, recording destination and departure ports, home lands and waterways, and in doing so making visible a small segment of the global patterns of seafaring. Custom-made souvenirs designed for the installation are given to seafarers as gestures of welcome and a memento of their visit. The souvenirs originating in Poland continue their journey by sea, to destinations beyond the Dome becoming part of the global network of seafaring, with an invitation for seafarers to record their future journeys using QR code scanning technologies. It is hoped that by releasing the 200 limited edition souvenirs accompanying the seafarers the mobile life of souvenirs and seafarers will also become visible. Like messages in bottles they leave our shores, becoming ambassadors, representing the Dome Gallery at the Mission to Seafarers, the waters of Port Phillip Bay, Australia’s red soil and vegetation, and carrying memories of visiting Melbourne." The Mission has always been open to the community and has a tradition of hosting cultural events: shows, concerts, exhibitions, festivals.Small flyer in PDf for the art installation by artist Margaret Woodward at the Mission to Seafarerscultural events, norla dome, mso, 2015, art installation, margaret woodward

Roll of negatives of the Eltham Festival Parade as it progresses along Main Road past the Catholic Church heading towards Bridge Street. Floats included the Tasmanian Wilderness Society with the Save the Franklin River campaign, and Diamond Valley Railway celebrating 21 years of passenger service as well as the Victorian Police Marching Band. A well known Eltham identity, Jock Read was asked to lead the Eltham Pony Club contingent that year and the roll includes several shots of Jock on his horse, Lofty who was approximately ten years of age, his colour was still classed as a steel grey at the time before he went "white" quite a few years later. 1982: 16-17 October. “Pioneers of Eltham” and tractor (rain) Neswletter No. 27, November 1982 Although our parade entry did not win a prize this year, it was considered highly successful from a participation point of view. Despite some uncertainty as to just who was coming, members and friends kept appearing at the assembly area. As in the past years our friends from the Victorian Folk Music Club brought their instruments along and really added to the occasion. This year we concentrated on a rural theme with a tractor/trailer combination. Thanks to Peter Bassett-Smith for the tractor, Joh Ebeli for the decorations and friendly trailer owner Dennis McKay. Unfortunately the closing stages of the parade were marred by heavy rain. We just finished as the rain started but members scattered very quickly. This has prompted the suggestion for future parades that we have a tent or other suitable venue for members to gather after the event. This is worth following up. The cold driving rain provided a special problem for Peter in driving his tractor home to Kangaroo Ground. Have you ever had to choose between standing up to warm your hands on the exhaust and having your tractor seat flooded? Certificate, Festival Parade Award, Rotary Club of Eltham, Eighth Eltham Community Festival 1982. Presented to the Shire of Eltham Historical Society for the most effort by "locals"Roll of 35mm colour negative film, 24 shotsKodak Safety Film 5035eltham festival, catholic church, diamond valley railway, eltham, eltham district historical society, eltham parade, festivals, eltham fire brigade, eltham horse and pony club, jock read, learning co-op primary school, eltham living and learning centre, lofty (horse), main road, marching band, montmorency scouts, parade, parade floats, peter bassett-smith, research pre-school, roller city, shire of eltham historical society, victorian police

This Rostrum lapel badge is one of a set of badges collected by Dr W R Angus from the organisations in which he was involved. The set of badges is now part of Flagstaff Hill’s comprehensive W.R. Angus Collection, donated by the family of Dr W R Angus, surgeon and oculist. This badge represents the Rostrum organisation, the longest-running public speaking organisation in the world. Rostrum has a Warrnambool branch, Warrnambool Club 24, which currently meets at the rear of the South Warrnambool Presbyterian Church building at 11 MacDonald Street, Warrnambool. The original Rostrum club was formed in England in 1923 and the first Australian Rostrum meeting was in 1930. The maker, Angus & Coote, is an Australian company that was founded by Edmund James Coote in Sydney in 1895. The firm made insignia during WWII and is famous for its high-quality jewellery. The W.R. Angus Collection includes historical medical equipment, surgical instruments and material belonging to Dr Edward Ryan and Dr Thomas Francis Ryan, (both of Nhill, Victoria) and Dr Angus’ own belongings. The Collection’s history spans the medical practices of the two Doctors Ryan, from 1885-1926 plus that of Dr Angus, up until 1969. It includes historical medical and surgical equipment and instruments from the doctors Edward and Thomas Ryan of Nhill, Victoria. Dr Angus married Gladys in 1927 at Ballarat, the nearest big city to Nhill where he began as a Medical Assistant. He was also Acting House surgeon at the Nhill hospital where their two daughters were born. During World War II He served as a Military Doctor in the Australian Defence Forces. Dr Angus and his family moved to Warrnambool in 1939, where Dr Angus operated his own medical practice. He later added the part-time Port Medical Officer responsibility and was the last person appointed to that position. Both Dr Angus and his wife were very involved in the local community, including the planning stages of the new Flagstaff Hill and the layout of the gardens there. Dr Angus passed away in March 1970.This badge is significant for connecting Doctor Angus with organisations that he supported. The badge also associates Dr Angus with the Rostrum Club in Warrnambool. The badge is of interest as the maker, Angus & Coote, only made badges during WWII. The W.R. Angus Collection is significant for still being located at the site it is connected with, Doctor Angus being the last Port Medical Officer in Warrnambool. The Collection includes historical medical objects that date back to the late 1800s.Lapel badge; a square gold-coloured metal and blue enamel badge. The blue enamel covers three-quarters of the top of the square badge and has a bold 'R' embossed onto it. The remaining quarter is gold with the organisation's name in blue letters. The maker's name is embossed on the back. The Rostrum badge was made by Angus & Coote.This badge is part of a set of badges collected by Dr W R Angus. the set represents organisations that he was involved in, and is part of the W.R. Angus Collection.Front “R” above “ROSTRUM”. Reverse; “ANGUS & COOTE”flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime village, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, great ocean road, w.r. angus, badge, organisation badge, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, badges, buttons, lapel badge, rostrum, warrnambool club 24, angus & coote sydney, rostrum club 24, public speaking club, rostrum lapel badge, wwii badge, 1939-1915

This sewing kit was issued to W.R. Angus during his Military Service in WWII. It is sometimes referred to as a soldier's ‘housewife’ and includes items necessary for mending and adjusting a soldier’s clothing and other fabric items. Earlier Army issue sewing kits were made of leather but were subject to deterioration due to holding moisture if they became wet. The sewing kit is now part of Flagstaff Hill’s comprehensive W.R. Angus Collection, donated by the family of Dr W R Angus (1901-1970), surgeon and oculist. Dr W R Angus was a Surgeon Captain for the Australian Defence Forces, Army Medical Corps, stationed in Ballarat, Victoria, and in Bonegilla, N.S.W. He completed his service just before the end of the war due to suffering from a heart attack. The W.R. Angus Collection: - The W.R. Angus Collection includes historical medical equipment, surgical instruments and material belonging to Dr Edward Ryan and Dr Thomas Francis Ryan, (both of Nhill, Victoria) and Dr Angus’ own belongings. The Collection’s history spans the medical practices of the two Doctors Ryan, from 1885-1926 plus that of Dr Angus, up until 1969. It includes historical medical and surgical equipment and instruments from the doctors Edward and Thomas Ryan of Nhill, Victoria. Dr Angus married Gladys in 1927 at Ballarat, the nearest big city to Nhill where he began as a Medical Assistant. He was also Acting House surgeon at the Nhill hospital where their two daughters were born. During World War II He served as a Military Doctor in the Australian Defence Forces. Dr Angus and his family moved to Warrnambool in 1939, where Dr Angus operated his own medical practice. He later added the part-time Port Medical Officer responsibility and was the last person appointed to that position. Both Dr Angus and his wife were very involved in the local community, including the planning stages of the new Flagstaff Hill and the layout of the gardens there. Dr Angus passed away in March 1970.This item is significant in Australia's War History and its connection with local history. It aids in understanding life in the military and the changes to normal life. Dr W R Angus (1901-1970), surgeon and oculist, collected a range of military objects including those he personally used during his time as Surgeon Captain in the Australian Defence Forces in World War II. The W.R. Angus Collection is significant for still being located at the site it is connected with, Doctor Angus being the last Port Medical Officer in Warrnambool. The Collection includes historical medical objects that date back to the late 1800s.Australian Army sewing kit, WWII era. A rectangular khaki cotton fabric pouch with pockets containing sewing needles, threads of various colours, a thimble and a reel of cotton. The pouch rolls up and is secured with its own ties. It has a handwritten inscription. The cloth patches belonged to Dr W R Angus and are now part of the W. R. Angus Collection."W.R. ANGUS"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime village, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, great ocean road, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, dr w r angus, w.r. angus collection, australian army, surgeon captain, ballarat, bonegilla, world war 2, second world war, australian defence forces, army medical corps, australian army medical corp (militia), ww 2, ww ii, aamc, sewing kit, sewing roll, housewife, clothing repairs, military equipment, army issue

The stencil set has signs of use, with ink on the metal and paper stencils, and in the mixing lid and the block and tube of ink have been used too. The larger brush in this set is labelled "rubber set". The phrase is not to be confused with the 1900-1950s firm Rubberset but ''rubber set" is the process of setting the bristles of a brush into rubber to keep them together and hold them in place. This stencil set once belonged to Dr William Roy Angus. He habitually labelled his possessions with his name - this stencil set may have been used for that purpose. This set is now part of Flagstaff Hill’s comprehensive W.R. Angus Collection, donated by the family of Dr W R Angus, 1901-1970, surgeon and oculist. The W.R. Angus Collection: - The W.R. Angus Collection includes historical medical equipment, surgical instruments and material belonging to Dr Edward Ryan and Dr Thomas Francis Ryan, (both of Nhill, Victoria) and Dr Angus’ own belongings. The Collection’s history spans the medical practices of the two Doctors Ryan, from 1885-1926 plus that of Dr Angus, up until 1969. It includes historical medical and surgical equipment and instruments from the doctors Edward and Thomas Ryan of Nhill, Victoria. Dr Angus married Gladys in 1927 at Ballarat, the nearest big city to Nhill where he began as a Medical Assistant. He was also Acting House surgeon at the Nhill hospital where their two daughters were born. During World War II He served as a Military Doctor in the Australian Defence Force. Dr Angus and his family moved to Warrnambool in 1939, where Dr Angus operated his own medical practice. He later added the part-time Port Medical Officer responsibility and was the last person appointed to that position. Both Dr Angus and his wife were very involved in the local community, including the planning stages of the new Flagstaff Hill and the layout of the gardens there. Dr Angus passed away in March 1970.This stencil set is an example of objects belonging to Dr. W. R. Angus, 1901-1970, surgeon and oculist. It shows the keeness of the owner to label his posessions. The W.R. Angus Collection is significant for still being located at the site it is connected with, Doctor Angus being the last Port Medical Officer in Warrnambool. The Collection includes historical medical objects that date back to the late 1800s.Stencil set with 27 metal cut stencils of the 26 letters of the Alphabet plus an ‘&’, and a metal clip to hold the set together (.1 - .28). The set also has two wooden handled brushes (large with a purple band .29, small with grey band .30) a solid block of black ink and a tube of black paint (.31 and .32) in a green tobacco tin, and a round metal lid used for mixing the inks. The set is contained in a vintage wooden cigar box with a hinged lid. Another stencil (8452.33) is made from stiff waxed paper and reproduces the medical symbol [serpent wound around a rod or cross]. This set is part of the W. R. Angus Collection.Stamped on a large brush "PURE BRISTLE" "RUBBER SET" and a logo (looks like the head of an animal) On small brush "- - - ER" On the wooden box lid and inside the lid "EL VUELO" within a round logo with leaves, "MANILLA LEAF" and on the long side "PERLAS" "25" On wooden box end handwritten in pencil "STENCIL" On ink in a tin "The "GREYS" "SILK CUT VIRGINIA TOBACCO" On the round lid "‘Cellona’"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime village, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, great ocean road, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, dr w r angus, dr ryan, w.r. angus collection, stencils, stencil set, bristle brushes, rubber set brush, metal stencils, waxed paper stencil, black ink block, black ink tube, stencil ink, labelling equipment, el vuelo, manilla leaf cigars, the greys, virginia tobacco, silk cut virginia tobacco

This seed box was made for Hiram Sibley for his seed house business. He sold seeds priced by the weight or the space they took up e.g. bushel. This box allowed for seeds to be divided by type, size or even date. The box was strong and easy to cart and store. It was also a handy item to 'recycle' as a storage container for other items. The Sibley seed box is a desirable collectors' item. A large variety of sizes and shapes are still available today in various stages of condition. Hiram Sibley developed seeds that were strong and the plants that grew from these seeds produced many seeds. Varieties of Sibley seeds and plants are still advertised for sale in modern times. HIRAM SIBLEY (1807-1888) - Hiram Sibley was born in America. He had a natural mechanical ability and became skilled in many trades. He and his partner Don Watson opened a sawmill then a machine shop and foundry. He became involved with Alfred Vale and Samuel Morse and their work on the telegraph. Eventually he became the first president of the Western Union Telegraph Company. Later, after leaving Western Union in the early 1860s, Sibley bought and sold railroads, manufactured sold, ran timber mills, and became involved in farming and seed supply. In this area he used his skills to engineer seeds that were stronger and develop plants that produced more seeds. The production of seeds became his main business. He bought land cheaply and improved to soil so that he could produce seed and grain, and graze herds of cattle. He became the owner of 14 large farms. Hiram Sibley earned the reputation "as the most extensive farmer and seedsman in this country". The business of Hiram Sibley & Co. was conducted his warehouse in Rochester and his seed house in Chicago. One department of the business sold farming equipment, another department imported ornamental plants from overseas countries Sibley went on to invest a large amount of money in a bank, and to be financially involved in the community by making large donations to public services such as a library and a school of music. At one point he was the richest man in Monroe county.This box is significant for its historic connection with Hiram Sibley, who is famous for many reasons, among which is his very profitable business of seed engineering to improve the production of crops. This box also represents the value of containers used for selling products in the 1880s, being re-used for other useful purposes. The box is an example of goods imported for use in Australia. The text and images of the box are an example of 1880s advertisingBox, wooden, with two brass hinges joining lid to base. Base has two wooden partitions, divided into three unequal sized compartments. Lid's underside has label with drawings of buildings and produce, text with maker's name and description of vegetables. Front edge of box has stencilled text and diagrams. Outside lid, and the other three sides, have no inscriptions. Made by Hiram Sibley & Co., USA. (Box is currently used to store quoits 1436.2 and cones of cotton thread 1436.3.)Marked "HIRAM SIBLEY & CO / SEEDS", "WAREHOUSE - "ROCHESTER N.Y. ", "SEED HOUSE - CHICARGO, ILL.", "SEEDS BY WEIGHT & MEASURE", "PUT UP BY / HIRAM SIBLEY & CO. / ROCHESTER, N.Y. AND CHICARGO, ILL."flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime village, maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime museum & village, hiram sibley & co, rochester n.y., seeds, wooden seed box, seed box, seedsmen, arable farming, chicargo illinois, seed house, seed engineering, seed distribution, seeds by weight and measure

Australian Rules Football history see MAV 00517 1909: Football Team. Only player named is Paddy Green. Since the player guernseys are almost the same and the photographer is the same we presume this is the same team as shown in MAV 00517 named as the Moorabbin Football Team Moorabbin Football Club, nicknamed the Kangaroos, was the name of two distinct Australian rules football clubs which played in the Victorian Football Association (VFA). The first club, founded in the early 20th century, joined the VFA in 1951 and played there until 1963 with great success; they played home matches at Moorabbin Oval and wore royal blue and white hooped jerseys. The second club played in the VFA from 1983 to 1987. Moorabbin played initially in the Federal Football League, making their debut in 1909 and competing until 1950. During this time the club won 12 premierships, including winning all six premierships staged over the nine years between 1940 and 1948 (the competition was in recess from 1942 until 1944). The club entered the VFA in 1951. Its Federal League home ground, the Dane Road Reserve, was not up to VFA standards; so, in 1951 the club played at Cheltenham, and in 1952 moved into the Moorabbin Oval, which the Moorabbin Council had developed during 1951. The Kangaroos made the 1954 and 1955 finals series without success but in 1957 they helped eliminate premiership favourite Williamstown after defeating them by two points in the Semi Final. Moorabbin, who were coached by Bill Faul, took on Port Melbourne in the Grand Final, whom they had not once beaten since joining the league. In another upset, Moorabbin won comfortably to claim their maiden VFA premiership. In the early 1960s, the Moorabbin Council was very keen to bring a Victorian Football League team to Moorabbin Oval. 1964, the Moorabbin City Council secured a deal with St Kilda, who moved to Moorabbin Oval starting in 1965. The club originally intended to seek readmission for the 1965 season, but in July the club committee decided to withdraw permanently from the Association,and disbanded. Photograph is Black and White. Three row of football boys. Some are wearing striped jumpers, either the stripes are going horizontal or parallel. There are twelve men wearing a suits, four in the third row, four in the second row and four in the first row. One of the boys wearing a suit in the front row, has a hat in his hand. The boys in the front row are kneeling, the second row are standing on the ground and the third row are standing on benches. Only player named is Paddy Green. Phillip Jones may also be in the photo Row 2 4th from left Front of Mount : 1909 Back of Mount : written Paddy Green , stamp HEWITT 92 Regent Street North Richmondfootball team, 1909, paddy green, moorabbin, moorabbin football club, 1903, 1908, 1909, philip jones, james jones, paddy green, early settlers, market gardeners, pioneers, herron john, australian rules foorball, victorian footbal league, victorian football association, moorabbin city council, moorabbin shire, city of moorabbin, st kilda football club,