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Melbourne Tram Museum
Document - Report, Ministry of Transport, Geelong Steam Preservation Society, "Victorian Transport Study - (The Lonie Report)", 1980
Set of reports, known as the "Victorian Transport Study - (The Lonie Report)", produced during 1980 and supplementary reports. Prepared from Robert Maclellan Minister of Transport by W. M Lonie. Documents resulted in significant change to the Victorian transport structures, especially the way freight and railway transport was handled. see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lonie_Report (accessed 25-9-2014) Documents generally perfect bound into manila coloured covers - unless noted otherwise. Comprises: .1 - Final Report - 174 pages .2 - Background to Transport Finance - white comb bound - 192 pages .3 - Summary of Submissions - fawn colour comb bound - 70 pages .4 - Background to State Development - 94 pages .5 - Land transport in Victoria - Historical background - white comb bound - 31 pages .6 - Bicycles - 19 pages .7 - Car pooling - 15 pages .8 - VicRail Financial system - 35 pages .9 - Transport of Fertilisers - 17 pages .10 - Staggered working hours - white comb bound - 16 pages .11 - Administration of Transport - 79 pages .12 - Metropolitan Roads - 60 pages .13 - Transport of Students - 24 pages .14 - Fuel for transport - unbound - stapled in top corner - photocopy of a bound document - 42 pages. This set does not comprise the full set of reports produced - see final document. .15 Autum 2016 issue of the Geelong Steam Preservation Society (Bellarine Railway) which contains an article on the Lonie Report "From Rags to Riches (Part 1). - See images 620a, 620b and 620c. The Winter issue did not have any materials on tramways.trams, tramways, transport, victoria, lonie report, railways, melbourne, tramways -
Bendigo Historical Society Inc.
Book - HANRO COLLECTION: SHARE REGISTER A & B ORDINARY 1929 - 1930
LIght brown and cream patterned book with a brown cloth tape spine with an index of shareholders at the front of the book. Book dated from 1929 to 1930 with name, address and occupation of shareholder. Columns for particulars, no of transfer, Distinctive Nos From and To, Dr, Cr, Balance of Shares Held, Distinctive Nos Held From and To,Dr date and amount and Cr date and amount. Many blank pages. Names of shareholders are: Eugen Cloch, Mary Anderson, John Raeburn Balmer, Katie Bloch, Consortium Hanro, William Crowley, William Reddish Cook, Favaloro Bros, Favaloro Domeric, Charles Handschin, Catherine HUnter, a. Alex Lewis Robertson Goldie, Mabel Gittins, Handschin Alice, William Dill Hunter, Annie Chambers Hunter, Mary Elizabeth Hunter, Herbert Keck, Harry Francis Longstaff, Geo Victor Lansell, Edith Lansell, Audrey Edith Lansell, Marie Gwendoline Lansell, Patrica Hope Lansell, Lillie Goudie McGregor, William Bowman hanna Neill, Evelyn Adrienne Neill, Elizabeth Neill, William ?all Russell, Ronald Alexander Rankin, William John Stephens, Smalley Balmer & Cook, John Jepson Stanistreet, Kenneth Smalley and William Wright. Pasted in the back of the book is a typed letter from Mrs Edith Lansell, dated 1 May 1931 to The Secretary, Hanro (Aust) Bendigo Knitting Mills Pty Ltd in reference to a new share certificate to replace a lost or destroyed one. She undertakes to indemnify Hanro against any claims or losses if the share certificate is presented for Dividend payments or for capital returned. Signed by Edith Lansell. Witness signature unreadable.hanro, clothing, share register, hanro collection - a & b ordinary share register 1929 - 1030, harry francis longstaff, william ?all russell, charles handschin, consortinum hanro, catherine hunter, favaloro bros, george victor lansell, denderah, edith lansell, fortuna, william wright, advertiser office, william john stephens, audrey edith lansell, marie gwendoline lansell, patrica hope lansell, alexander lewis robertson goldie, llillie goudie mcgregor, herbert keck, smalley balmer & cook, william bowman hanna neill, rosemont, ronald alexander rankin, john jepson stanistreet, eugen bloch, william crowley, william ball russell, mabel gittins, mary anderson, kenneth smalley, john raeburn balmer, william reddish cook, domeric favaloro, katie bloch, evelyn adrienne neill, elizabeth neill, alice handschin, william dill hunter, annie chambers hunter, mary elizabeth hunter -
Coal Creek Community Park & Museum
Bottle, glass, c.1887- c.1903
Victorian Government gazette, Wednesday January 28, 1902, page 20. 'The Pharmaceutical Register cont'd.........No. on register : 140, Date of registration : 30 May 1877, Stokes, William Albert, Balaclava Road, East St. Kilda, Qualification : in business in Victoria before 1 October 1876'. TROVE : Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1957), Tuesday 7 September 1875, page 1. 'WANTED, a respectable BOY ; must live in the neighbourhood. References W. A. Stokes, chemist, Balaclava'. TROVE : Bendigo Independent (Vic. : 1891 - 1918), Tuesday 1 December 1914, page 5. 'ABOUT PEOPLE. The death of Dr. James Stokes, M.R.C.S., L., occurred at his home, 43 Ebden Street, Elsternwick, on Saturday at the age of 90 years. Dr. Stokes, who was born in London,, arrived in Victoria in 1849 and for many years practiced in different parts of the State. He was the last on the male side of an old family, one of his sons, who predeceased him, being the late Mr. W. A. Stokes, chemist, of Carlisle Street, St. Kilda. The funeral took place yesterday morning, when the remains were in interred in the family grave at St, Kilda Cemetery'. TROVE : The Age (Melbourne, Vic. : 1854 - 1954) Tuesday 13 December 1887 p 5 Article " ROUGH ON RATS" POISON.' . PROSECUTION UNDER THE POISONS ACT. At the St. Kilda police court, on Friday, W, A. Stokes, chemist, Carlisle-street, Balaclava, was prosecuted under the Poisons Statute on the charge of selling to one Mrs. Hannah Charlton a poison without having made and signed the entry required by the act. A second charge of selling to Mrs, Hannah Charlton a poison without having obtained the signature of the purchaser to an entry as required by the act was also preferred against the defendant. Both cases were taken together. Mr, Donovan appeared to prosecute, and Mr. Cole for the defence. Senior-constable Connell deposed that he knew the defendant. On the 24th of October last an inquest was held at East St. Kilda relative to the cause of the death of a man named Charlton. A packet bearing the label " Rough on Rats," which was found. in the deceased's bedroom, was produced at the inqiry, and afterwards handed over to Mr. Blackett, Government analytical chemist for analysis. The verdict of the jury was that the deceased died from the effects of arsenical poisoning. Hannah Charlton, a widow, residing in South Yarra, said in September last she purchased a packet of "Rough on Rats" from the defendant's assistant. Witness was not asked her name, place of abode, occupation or for what purpose the poison was required; neither did she observe the assistant make any entry in a book, She did not attach her signature to any document, and was not asked to do so. The packet was purchased for the purpose of poisoning rats. Cuthbert Robert Blackett, Government analytical chemist, stated that Constable Ballantyne handed him the packet produced. Witness made an analysis of the contents, and found it composed of arsenic, slightly coloured with a carbonaceous matter. The mayor announced that there was a doubt in the minds of the magistrates as to whether the defendant could be held guilty under the law, but they thought the prosecution had attained its object by making known the fact that "Rough on Rats" is a poison. They thought that such preparations should be entered by the sellers, but in that case they were inclined to give the defendant the benefit of the doubt and dismiss the case.Aqua tinted clear glass bottle with angled corners for stopper seal with text embossed on one side and on base.On side : 'W.A.STOKES CHEMIST EAST ST. KILDA'. On base : 'K6228'.w a stokes, chemist -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate, Johnson Bros
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate, Alfred Meakin
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, J & G Meakin, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Jug
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug -
The Beechworth Burke Museum
Audio - Oral History, Jennifer Williams, Alan French, 1st June 2000
Alan French was born in Beechworth in 1918 on Christmas Day, an only child descendent from French, Irish and Scottish family who had moved to and stayed in the area years before, both of his parents were born in Beechworth and were fourth generation Indigo Shire locals. Alan grew up in the depression era working the land with his dad when they could, cutting wood or helping on the local farms in and around Wooragee. Everyone able in those days bartered for goods, little coin and vegetables if there was spare to go around with labour or what little they produced from their efforts. In this interview, Alan discusses how his great grandparents Francois (French) and Catherine (Irish) Bertrand were the first vignerons in Beechworth, even mentioned in Beechworth, a Titans Field; 'Vines were draped across 156 acres of Beechworth shire in 1880, and notable vignerons included Francois Bertrand [...]' (Woods: 162) according to Alan 'you can still see where the old vines used to be, Malakoff Rose Garden' but whether or not the wine they produced was any good for drinking is open to interpretation and lost to the history of Beechworth and those who tasted it. This oral history recording was part of a project conducted by Jennifer Williams in the year 2000 to capture the everyday life and struggles in Beechworth during the twentieth century. This project involved recording seventy oral histories on cassette tapes of local Beechworth residents which were then published in a book titled: Listen to what they say: voices of twentieth century Beechworth. These cassette tapes were digitised in July 2021 with funds made available by the Friends of the Burke.This oral history account is socially and historically significant as it is a part of a broader collection of interviews conducted by Jennifer Williams which were published in the book 'Listen to what they say: voices of twentieth-century Beechworth.' While the township of Beechworth is known for its history as a gold rush town, these accounts provide a unique insight into the day-to-day life of the town's residents during the 20th century, many of which will have now been lost if they had not been preserved.This is a digital copy of a recording that was originally captured on a cassette tape. The cassette tape is black with a horizontal white strip and is currently stored in a clear flat plastic rectangular container. It holds up 40 minutes of recordings on each side.listen to what they say, beechworth, oral history, burke museum, vigneron, a titans field, beechworth a titans field, francois bertrand, wooragee, indigo shire, depression era, wood cutting, labour, farming, vines, history, malakoff rose garden -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Razor Strop, Early 19th century
A razor strop is flexible strip of leather or canvas used to maintain a shaving edge on a thin blade such as a straight razor. Fine powdered jeweler's rouge or other pastes can be added as an abrasive to polish the blade. The strop may be a hanging strip or a hand-held paddle. This one is a hanging strop. Strops were quite commonly found in barber shops and homes before the invention of the safety razor, They are still used for sharpening tool blades. The person using the strop would draw the spine of the blade down along the strop with the blade following, without putting any pressure on the blade. At the end of the stroke, rotate the blade over its spine then draw the spine along the strop again so that the edge moves away from the top. The finer grade of leather strap is used to give the final finish. KEEN EDGE MANUFACTURER In March 1906 Popular Mechanics magazine included an advertisement for Keen Edge Strop. The promise given by the advertiser, Eddy Mfg. Co. (206 Broadway, New York) was “Use the Keen Edge strop for 90 days and if not satisfied return to us and we will refund your money“. The advertisement was for a Combination Razor Strop, “the only strop made which requires no dressing.” Readers were invited to send for a booklet on Razor and the Face. In 1924 Popular Mechanics, published by Hearst Magazines, displayed an advertisement seeking a sales manager “… to sell [to] drug, hardware and cigar stores Keen Edge Strop Dressing, which sharpens straight razors and safety blades and removes old razor strops.” At that time the Keen Edge Mfg. Company was in Dallas, Texas. Razor strops are of historical significance, representing personal effects of men from the time period when men relied on strops to keep a sharp edge on their shaving blade. Strops were commonly owned and used until the acceptance of safety razors.Razor strop, leather and metal. Keen Edge brand, double straps: two straps of different grade leather joined at ends with metal fittings. Stropping faces; sharpening surface is stained red and finishing surface is stained black. One end has padded, bulbous shaped leather handle, the other end has metal, swivel hook hanger. Inscriptions pressed into leather at the ends of the straps. Impressed into leather "FINEST SELECTED HIDE", "KEEN EDGE", "FINISH" (black stained side), “A SHARPENER" (red stained side), “1 2 3”warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, great ocean road, shaving leather, shaving accessory, barber’s equipment, barber shop razor strop, razor strop, straight razor, razor and knife sharpener, keen edge razor strop -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Functional object - Suitcase, 1930-1945
The suitcase didn't catch on until the end of the 19th century, it was quite literally as a case for suits. A typical suitcase came equipped with an inner sleeve for storing shirts, and sometimes a little hat box on the side. But even in the early 20th century, the "dress-suit case" was only one of countless styles of container travellers could buy, from steamer trunks to club bags. By the late 19th century a significant point was reached in the history of transportation, it was the beginning of mass tourism, rather than travel for travels sake made use of by the wealthy in society. Travel wasn't just for the wealthy any more but everyone. Suitcases began as an afterthought in the luggage and leather goods business, but they soon became the very symbol of travel. An 1897 wholesale price list included the words "suitcase" only twice in a 20-page list of luggage types. In America a 1907 T. Eaton & Co. Catalogue, trunks took up a full page while suitcases share a page with club bags and valises. In a 1911 a United Company catalogue, now displayed around 40 per cent of the advertisements were for suitcases. Early suitcases were lighter and more portable than trunks, but they were still bulky by today's standards. Leather, canvas, wicker or thick rubbery cloth was stretched over a rigid wood or steel frame. Corners were rounded out using brass or leather caps and some had wooden rails running around the case. Until steamship travel declined during the mid-20th century, many of these types of the case were advertised as waterproof with some lightweight models marketed specifically to women. The item gives us a snap-shot as to how people undertook travelling during a time when undertaking a journey for pleasure at the end of the 19th century was mainly only for the wealthy. This time saw the beginnings of change from the wealthy in society being able to travel, to the onset of mass tourism. Along with this change in societal norms saw many innervations to the design of luggage as it became a fashionable item.Suitcase, brown canvas with three wooden reinforcing lateral rails running around the case, leather handle each end (one broken), two locks.. Maker Pettigrew & Stephens Ltd Glasgow. "A.T.Cox 354/3 Riversdale Rd Campberwell, Vic Australia" and "W.ON" painted over on each endflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, suitcase, -
Kiewa Valley Historical Society
Photographs x 2 - 1. Mt Beauty Camp 2. Bogong Camp, Photo 1 - September 1950
Mt Beauty Camp- The new State Electricity Commission construction camp at the head of the Kiewa Valley was for workmen on the second power station in the project expected to be the most modern and best equipped in Australia… In contrast to the early Kiewa days of horses and canvas tents, the new camp, with its modern amenities, compared favourably with any country town. Administration of the Kiewa Scheme was moved from Tawonga to Mount Beauty in 1946. The first house in Mount Beauty, in Hollonds Street, was occupied by the co-op store manager from November 1946. The new Mess Hall at Mt Beauty was opened with much ceremony in early November 1946. The houses up to Nelse street were erected from 1946 onward and then the township was extended beyond Nelse Street in 1950. The workmen's camp was enlarged in 1950 to the extent of providing accommodation for a total of 1,200. Bogong Camp - In 1940 Field Headquarters for the Kiewa Scheme were established at Bogong with office, workshop facilities and accommodation for workmen, staff and some families constructed. (There had been a 'tent camp' on this site in 1939 but was destroyed by bushfires) Construction of accommodation continued until 1947. A total of 40 houses plus a hostel for single staff, post office, police station, medical centre and primary school all with water and sewerage and electricity supply. The staff hostel was known as Kiewa House and is now occupied by the Education Department. Lake Guy was named after Mr. L.T. Guy who was the Resident Engineer in charge of construction work and associated activities on the Kiewa area. He held this position from 1939 to November 1946 when he was transferred to Head Office. Both Bogong Village and Mt Beauty were developed to accommodate workmen on the Kiewa Hydro Electric Scheme but have since become centres for tourism and a range of outdoor activities.1. Black and white photograph of Mount Beauty Camp taken in September 1950 2. Black and white photograph of Bogong Village Camp1. Written on the back in grey lead - Sept 1950. Mt Beauty Camp. HT Cooper own taking 2. Stamped on back of photograph - Copyright. Not for reproduction. Herald Sun feature Service. Melbourne Australiamt beauty camp, bogong camp, secv -
Cheese World Museum
Centrifuge, electric
This Babcock tester was used in the laboratory at the Kraft cheese factory, Allansford. When it was superseded it was passed to one of the users of the machine, Les O'Callaghan, president of the Warrnambool & District Historical Society who placed it in the historical society collection. In 2009 when the historical society premises were upgraded there was insufficient room to store the tester so it was donated to Cheese World Museum. The machine was used to test the butterfat content of milk. Prior to dairy factories coming into existence farmers made butter individually on farms. There was no need for milk testing until farmers supplied factories for payment. Payment was based on a gallon of milk weighing 10lbs (pounds) and this led to richer milk, containing a high degree of butterfat for use in buttermaking, being paid at the same rate as lesser quality milk. In 1890 Stephen Moulton Babcock, an American professor at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, developed a method of determining the amount of butterfat in milk, thus providing a standardised and fairer system for payment. Babcock Test Process 1. 18 grams of milk (17.6ml) was put into a test tube 2. The same amount of sulphuric acid was added 3. A centrifuge at 50ºC was rotated at more than 900 revs per minute 4. The fat floating on top of the liquid in the test tube was measured The Babcock Test provided fairer compensation to farmers and also helped produce a consistent product for consumers. It also allowed for selective breeding when dairy herd testing evolved. ‘The Babcock Test is so simple that it can be used by any careful person, and it is inexpensive to operate. From the very beginning it was so complete in every detail that no change has had to be made in it.’ (Babcock Test http://www.en.wikipedia.org/wki/Babcock_test 31 March 2009) Round green metal container with opening lid. Inside houses a spinning rotor with 20 test tube holders around the outside in two circular rows.7173 BABCOCKTESTER 190allansford, dairy manufacturing, milk testing, babcock test, babcock, stephen moulton, butter, warrnambool cheese and butter factory company -
Brighton Historical Society
Swimsuit ensemble, Watersun, Pool party ensemble, 1973
This striking pool party ensemble from Australian swimwear company Watersun was designed by Carmela DiBernado, nee Savino, for the opening of the Sydney Opera House in 1973. Polish-born designer David Waters first began producing swimwear in 1952. His mother Halina had recently opened a stall at Melbourne Queen Victoria Markets and was looking for swimsuits to sell; unable to find any she liked, she asked David to design something. He began making swimming costumes using his mother's sewing machine, in between his shifts working at a knitting factory. He had soon set up a small business in his parents' home, cutting patterns in one room while a machinist sewed them together in the next. His company, which he named Watersun, would become an iconic Australian swimwear label. During the early 1960s, Watersun developed its "Unquestionable Bra", an inbuilt moulded bra which was marketed as giving wearers a more natural bustline than other labels. The company was also known for its matching swimwear and beachwear, producing dresses, kaftans, tops and skirts in identical colours and prints to those used for many of its swimsuits. By 1967, the company was reportedly one of Australia's two biggest swimwear manufacturers, with over one hundred employees. Watersun was sold to Ada Productions in 1984 and was later acquired by Trackerjack Australasia. This swimsuit is believed to be one of a large quantity of samples, seconds and unsold Ada Productions stock donated to Brighton Historical Society in late 1990 by Brian Samuel, who worked at the company between 1979 and 1990.Pool party ensemble consisting of a swimsuit (.1) and robe dress (.2), both black with silver trim. Dress has a crossover front, fastening at side waist, with v-neck at front and plunging back. Swimsuit has a v-neck, with silver trim extending forming an X-shape across the body.Label (identical in both items), blue text on white: “Watersun / SIZE 10 / BUST 32 / Made in Australia”swimwear, watersun, david waters, ada productions, melbourne designers, 1970s, carmela savino, carmela dibernardo, sydney opera house -
Puffing Billy Railway
Sign - Advertising - Pure Velvet Soap - Enamel Sign, pre 1950s
Velvet Soap was a widely used laundry bar soap launched in 1906, produced by J. Kitchen & Sons, owned by John Ambrose Kitchen (1835 - 1922). Kitchen was born in Britain and emigrated to Victoria in 1854. After a less than successful period at the Caledonian and Blackwood diggings, Kitchen returned to Melbourne and joined his father and brothers in establishing a tallow candle making works. Through merger and expansion the company became the pre-eminent manufacturer of soap and candles in the eastern colonies in the mid to late 19th century. Kitchen also speculated in a number of enterprises but suffered financial setbacks as a result of the 1890s bank crashes. Despite this, the company continued to grow in the early twentieth century with the introduction of products such as Velvet Soap and Solvol. The company merged with the British company Lever Bros in 1914 who eventually took full control of the company in 1924, becoming Lever and Kitchen. Advertising for Velvet Soap in Australia was extensive and pervasive. All manner of surfaces were used to advertise the product such as building walls, roofs, and most commonly, enamelled sheet metal signs which were fastened to any available surface internally and externally. The most common form of sign that Velvet Soap used was the words 'PURE VELVET SOAP' in white lettering within a vivid dark blue, elongated Maltese cross. On the enamelled metal signs the Maltese cross sat on a red background with a yellow border. While this was the dominant form for Velvet Soap signs, there were variations from the standard. The Velvet Soap sign is of historical significance as a representative of painted signs that were once a common form of advertising during the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. - : http://vhd.heritagecouncil.vic.gov.au/places/14447#sthash.Vb6KAUWl.dpufHistoric - Advertising Sign - Velvet SoapTin sign with white, yellow, red and blue enamel. Pure velvet soap.puffing billy, enamel sign, pure velvet soap -
8th/13th Victorian Mounted Rifles Regimental Collection
Work on paper - VMR, Labour and Shipping Strike
Probably originally drawn for publication in Melbourne newspaper showing detachment of Victorian Mounted Rifles on way to establish order at a strike site during the Labour and Shipping Strike of August 1890. During the strike armed troops were deployed to support the police in Melbourne and in Newcastle and a number of other ports around the country. In Melbourne, the announcement that a public meeting was going to be held on 31 August 1890 to support the maritime strikers sent the Victorian government into precautionary mode. On the eve of the meeting, the Victorian Mounted Rifles were briefed by their commanding officer Lieutenant-Colonel Tom Price: 'Men of the Mounted Rifles, one of your obligations imposes on you the duty of resisting invasion by a foreign enemy, but you are also liable to be called upon to assist in preserving law and order in the colony. ... To do your work faintly would be a grave mistake. If it has to be done effectively you will each be supplied with 40 rounds of ammunition, leaden bullets, and if the order is given to fire, don't let me see any rifle pointed in the air; fire low and lay them out so that the duty will not have to be performed again.' Price was quite clear and quite unapologetic about his intentions. He only wanted ′'to hit the strikers in the legs ... not to kill them outright. He explained that the term 'lay them out' was used in his regiment to mean 'temporary disablement'. A force of 1,000 militia and mounted police and another 1,000 special constables were embodied by the time of the meeting. These forces, apart from a troop of mounted police were held in reserve out of the way and the 40,000 who attended the meeting, although enthusiastic, were orderly and the forces were not called in. Framed coloured artistic work with three works depicting soldiers on horseback in midst of angry crowds.military, strike, melbourne, maritime, vmr -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Functional object - Steamer luggage Trunk, First quarter of the 20th century
Item used around the first quarter of the 20th century The suitcase didn't catch on until the end of the 19th century, it was quite literally as a case for suits. A typical suitcase came equipped with an inner sleeve for storing shirts, and sometimes a little hat box on the side. But even in the early 20th century, the "dress-suit case" was only one of countless styles of container travellers could buy, from steamer trunks to club bags. By the late 19th century a significant point was reached in the history of transportation, it was the beginning of mass tourism, rather than travel for travels sake made use of by the wealthy in society. Travel wasn't just for the wealthy any more but everyone. Suitcases began as an afterthought in the luggage and leather goods business, but they soon became the very symbol of travel. An 1897 wholesale price list included the words "suitcase" only twice in a 20-page list of luggage types. In America a 1907 T. Eaton & Co. Catalogue, trunks took up a full page while suitcases share a page with club bags and valises. In a 1911 a United Company catalogue, now displayed around 40 per cent of the advertisements were for suitcases. Early suitcases were lighter and more portable than trunks, but they were still bulky by today's standards. Leather, canvas, wicker or thick rubbery cloth was stretched over a rigid wood or steel frame. Corners were rounded out using brass or leather caps and some had wooden rails running around the case. Until steamship travel declined during the mid-20th century, many of these types of the case were advertised as waterproof with some lightweight models marketed specifically to women. The item gives us a snap-shot as to how people undertook travelling during a time when undertaking a journey for pleasure at the end of the 19th and early 20th century was mainly only for the wealthy. This time saw the beginnings of change from the wealthy in society being able to travel, to the onset of mass tourism. Along with this change in societal norms saw many innervation's to the design of luggage as it became a fashionable item.Suitcase/trunk leather reinforced at corners with wooden slats to strengthen the lid. Leather straps to close lid with metal lock in the middle of the lid. Closing strap missing.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Functional object - Suitcase/Trunk
The suitcase didn't catch on until the end of the 19th century, it was quite literally as a case for suits. A typical suitcase came equipped with an inner sleeve for storing shirts, and sometimes a little hatbox on the side. But even in the early 20th century, the "dress-suit case" was only one of countless styles of container travellers could buy, from steamer trunks to club bags. By the late 19th century a significant point was reached in the history of transportation, it was the beginning of mass tourism, rather than travel for travels sake made use of by the wealthy in society. Travel wasn't just for the wealthy any more but everyone. Suitcases began as an afterthought in the luggage and leather goods business, but they soon became the very symbol of travel. An 1897 wholesale price list included the words "suitcase" only twice in a 20-page list of luggage types. In America a 1907 T. Eaton & Co. Catalogue, trunks took up a full page while suitcases share a page with club bags and valises. In a 1911 a United Company catalogue, now displayed around 40 per cent of the advertisements were for suitcases. Early suitcases were lighter and more portable than trunks, but they were still bulky by today's standards. Leather, canvas, wicker or thick rubbery cloth was stretched over a rigid wood or steel frame. Corners were rounded out using brass or leather caps and some had wooden rails running around the case. Until steamship travel declined during the mid-20th century, many of these types of the case were advertised as waterproof with some lightweight models marketed specifically to women. The item gives us a snap-shot as to how people undertook travelling during a time when undertaking a journey for pleasure at the end of the 19th century was mainly only for the wealthy. This time saw the beginnings of change from the wealthy in society being able to travel, to the onset of mass tourism. Along with this change in societal norms saw many innervation's to the design of luggage as it became a fashionable item.Suitcase/trunk with inner tray, brown canvas covered with 2 hinge clamps and a central Eagle lock, four wooden lateral buffer railed slats running around the case, leather handles each end. noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, suitcase -
Orbost & District Historical Society
ledger, 1911-1914
This ledger was used by the Shire of Orbost from 1911 - 1914. It was used to record fees paid for Dairy Registration, Dog Registration and Sheep dipping. At that time dairy farmers were required to register all milking cows. Dogs, too, were to be registered and there were strict laws on sheep dipping. Every sheep-owner was to dip all his sheep immediately after shearing and directly from the shearing-board in every year and also at the time of dipping his sheep dip all his lambs. In case the sheep couldn't be conveniently dipped directly from the shearing board they were to be placed and kept in a securely fenced paddock to be dipped within sixty days after shearing. Sheep-owner who neglected or failed to comply with any of these directives were liable to a penalty of not less than One pound nor more than Twenty pounds. The shire covered an area of 9,347 square kilometres and existed from 1892 until 1994 when it became part of the East Gippsland Shire Council. Orbost was at first included in the Bairnsdale Shire from 1882 and was later part of the Tambo Shire. Because of travelling distances the Croajingalong Shire was created in 1892 (name changed to Orbost Shire 17.2.1893 with James Cameron as the first Shire President. In 1994 it amalgamated to become part of East Gippsland Shire Council. The item was donated to Orbost & District Historical society from P.R.O.V. as a Place of Deposit (POD) item for safe keeping by a local history group or museum. The shire covered an area of 9,347 square kilometres and existed from 1892 until 1994 when it became part of the East Gippsland Shire Council. This item is a record of local council accounting. The Shire of Orbost no longer exists as it was absorbed by the East Gippsland Shire Council.A dark blue, leatherette covered ledger cash book with tan spine, stitched marbled end covers. Records are handwritten in blue and red ink and blue pencil. It contains records of Dairy Registration fees, Dog Registration fees and Sheep Dipping fees.Inside the front cover is a list of contents.ledger orbost-shire-council sheep-dipping dairy-registration accounts -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Functional object - Suitcase, 1920-1950
The suitcase didn't catch on until the end of the 19th century, it was quite literally as a case for suits. A typical suitcase came equipped with an inner sleeve for storing shirts, and sometimes a little hat box on the side. But even in the early 20th century, the "dress-suit case" was only one of countless styles of container travellers could buy, from steamer trunks to club bags. By the late 19th century a significant point was reached in the history of transportation, it was the beginning of mass tourism, rather than travel for travels sake made use of by the wealthy in society. Travel wasn't just for the wealthy any more but everyone. Suitcases began as an afterthought in the luggage and leather goods business, but they soon became the very symbol of travel. An 1897 wholesale price list included the words "suitcase" only twice in a 20-page list of luggage types. In America a 1907 T. Eaton & Co. Catalogue, trunks took up a full page while suitcases share a page with club bags and valises. In a 1911 a United Company catalogue, now displayed around 40 per cent of the advertisements were for suitcases. Early suitcases were lighter and more portable than trunks, but they were still bulky by today's standards. Leather, canvas, wicker or thick rubbery cloth was stretched over a rigid wood or steel frame. Corners were rounded out using brass or leather caps and some had wooden rails running around the case. Until steamship travel declined during the mid-20th century, many of these types of the case were advertised as waterproof with some lightweight models marketed specifically to women. The item gives us a snap-shot as to how people undertook travelling during a time when undertaking a journey for pleasure at the end of the 19th century was mainly only for the wealthy. This time saw the beginnings of change from the wealthy in society being able to travel, to the onset of mass tourism. Along with this change in societal norms saw many innervations to the design of luggage as it became a fashionable item.Suitcase wooden with four wood reinforcing ribs, 2 leather straps with buckles & leather handles each end. Has inner shelf.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, suitcase, -
Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Audio Recording, Audio Recording; 2018-10-13 Eltham Community Town Hall Meeting, 13 Oct 2018
Meeting to discuss the Nillumbik Shire Council's proposed sale and devlopment of the former Shire Office site at 895 Main Road as well as the Eltham War Memorial including the Maternal and Infant Welfare Centre, Eltham Pre-school and Eltham War Memorial Hall and Memorial Gardens at 903-907 Main Road which also includes thje Eltham Senior Citizen's Centre. The meeting was attended by more than 300 people which considered the following: Motion from public meeting – Saturday 13th October, 2018 1. This meeting has no confidence in Nillumbik Shire Council's proposed process for the re-development of 895 and 903-907 Main Rd, Eltham and we deplore the cursory attention given to public consultation to date. 2. We call on Council: *to preserve the Eltham War Memorial building complex at 903-907 Main Rd, Eltham, and retain their existing uses in accordance with the Eltham War Memorial Trust purpose; and retain the Cenotaph and Eltham Senior Citizens' Centre. * to retain council ownership of all land at 895 and 903-907 Main Rd, Eltham for our community and future generations. * following meaningful engagement with residents of the Shire, to place sufficient planning controls on the site of the former Eltham Shire Office to ensure that any future development of that land responds to Eltham's form and character and properly protects public amenity, access and use. * to make all proposals for the development of 895 and 903-907 Main Rd, Eltham available for public inspection as soon as they are received by Council. Moved: Greg Johnson Seconder: Andrew Lemon * carried unanimously1:28:52 duration Digital MP3 File 30.5 MB 895 main road, 903-907 main road, community meeting, eltham pre-school, eltham shire office, eltham war memorial, eltham war memorial hall, infant welfare centre, nillumbik shire council, senior citizen's centre -
Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Document - Appendix, M.B. Watson, Shire Secretary, List of Former Road Board Chairmen and Shire Presidents (1856-1966), 28 Nov 1966
Appendix to Shire Secretary’s Report, 28 November 1966 SHIRE PRESIDENTS Local Government in this part of the State could be said to have commenced with election in 1846 of three trustees for "The Parish Road, leading from the Suburban Allotments in the Parish of Jika Jika, near Melbourne, to the Village Reserve in the Parish of Nillumbik". The Upper Heidelberg and Old Eltham Road follow approximately the original line of road proclaimed in 1840. The Eltham Road District was proclaimed on 24.9.1856. A meeting of landowners and householders of the Eltham Road District was held on 14.10.1856 at the Fountain of Friendship Hotel, Little Eltham, for the purpose of forming a District Road Board. To date I have been unable to locate any record of the names of the members elected, or of the first Chairman. Further research may yield the desired information. The Shire of Eltham was constituted on 28.3.1871. The proposed Roll of Shire Presidents should, I believe, also include the Road Board Chairmen. It may also be considered fitting to recognise the Heidelberg or Nillumbik (or Warringal) Road Trust in the same way. The first Minute Book of the Board, covering the period 1856 to 1863, has apparently been missing for many years. The Shire Minute Book for the period 1878 to 1885 is also missing. The absence of these vital records makes difficult the compilation of a complete and accurate list of Chairmen and Presidents. Although an early letter book yielded the names of the Shire Presidents in 1878, 1879 and 1800. The names prior to 1863 were derived from Rate Books and Government Gazettes. The information contained in the Municipal Directories 1875 to 1885 is at variance to some extent with such Council records as are available for that period, and consequently cannot be relied upon for the years where the Presidents names have not been shown. shire of eltham archives, series listing, a. armstrong, a. beale, a. brinkkotter, a. donaldson, a.h. price, a.j. braid, c.h. bath, c.m.a. pelling (mrs.), c.t. bell, d.c. o'beirne, e.d. butler, e.h. cameron, e.j. andrew, e.p. harmer, f.e. griffith, f.v. squire, f.w. nankervis, g. love, g. robertson, h. dendy, h. hewitt, h. stooke, l.t. wilmot, j. cox, j. murray, j. barr, j. bell, j. fitch, j. herbert, j. lawrey, j. mealy, j. pape, j. ryan, j. smedley, j.b. shallard, j.l. beale, l. c. docksey, r. mcadam, r.a. bell, r.c. white, r.r. woolcott, rutter, s.s. addison, s.w. scott, t. armstrong, t. irvine, w. horris, w. hubbard, w. lorimer, w. morris, w. taylor, w.c. farrell, w.f. ford, w.g. gray, w.h. bradbury, w.j. taylor, w.v. houghton -
Ballaarat Mechanics' Institute (BMI Ballarat)
Landsborough St Milk Bar, Geoff Wallis, 1970s
This photograph is held in the Ballaarat Mechanics' Institute Audio Visual Collection. Please contact BMI for all print and usage inquiries. Ballarat artist and educator Geoff Wallis took a series of photographs of Ballarat Milk Bars in the 1970s. This is one of his favourites. He notes: “My ‘local’ is not the pub that stands on a corner only 100 metres from my home but the milk bar that is across the road from the pub in Peel Street North. It is an extraordinary example of the milk bar fulfilling its time-honoured role of being every suburb or town’s Aladdin’s Cave. It is well worth a visit. I photographed this milk bar in 1979 when it was a much more conventional shop and then continued on taking photographs of all the milk bars I could locate around Ballarat. The photographs were to be the starting point for an artistic project but this didn’t eventuate. Though my motivation was primarily artistic I was also interested in milk bars as familiar and essential parts of daily life. Their accoutrements of Peters Ice Cream cones, newspaper headlines, and colourful signage made them distinctive features of the townscape. Milk bars had been part of my life from when I first was sent to ‘the shop’ as a little boy clutching a ration card. My parents bought a milk bar in Camberwell when I was nine and though I only lived there for a year, it is still vivid in my mind. Lollies, comics, ice cream, milkshakes -- all the treasures essential for a happy childhood -- awaited any child who pushed through the door. Though milk bars were once scattered throughout the city, competition from many sources is making them an endangered species.”ballarat, milk bar, shop, landsborough, herald, groceries -
Parks Victoria - Gabo Island Lightstation
Nails
The five types of nails include a stamped steel nail made for wooden flooring; four copper nails used for boat building found at various locations on the island; two steel nails removed from the lantern room door during restoration in 2002 which possibly came with the Chance Bros. lantern room kit delivered in 1862; three galvanised steel nails used to pin the railway track to sleepers and decking on the jetty (the rail track carried a small trolley for unloading stores from supply ships); and a square copper nail found on the rocky shore on Tullaberga Island close to the location of the Monumental City wreck of 1853. The huge American steamer, Monumental City, was wrecked on 15 May 1853. Built in 1850, the ship was the first screw-propulsion steamer to cross the Pacific and was heading back to Sydney after dropping off Californians heading for the Victorian goldfields. Thirty-seven lives were lost, including the owner of the ship, Peter Strobel. A medal was awarded by Sydney residents to Charles Plummer who swam ashore with a line from the wreck. The tragedy renewed the urgency for a lighthouse on Gabo Island, and in 1862 when this was achieved an obelisk was erected as a memorial to those who perished. That year, Victorian PWD architect and designer of the lightstation buildings, Charles Maplestone, gave the following instructions: ‘You may remove the remains of the poor unfortunate shipwrecked of the Monumental City to the site on Gabo you propose but take scrupulous care to collect all the remains and inter them decently under the monument. Pray save any relics’.246 Heritage Victoria has 39 artefacts listed under the Historic Shipwrecks Act (S473) with a clear provenance to the Monumental City. While the copper nail has no documented provenance, it still has contributory significance as part of a diverse assemblage of relics that help to interpret the history of the Gabo Island Lightstation and the numerous shipwrecks that have occurred in its vicinity since the mid nineteenth century..1 Steel nail - flat. Stamped. This type of nail was used for secret nailing of flooring. Source of this nail is unknown. .2 Copper nails. This type of nail was used for boat building. Found at various locations around island. .3 Steel nails. Extracted from lantern room door during restoration 2002. .4 Galvanised steel nails. Used to pin railway track to timber sleepers and decking on jetty. Rail track carried a small trolley used during the unloading of stores from supply ships. .5. Copper nail square. This nail was found on the rocky shore line on Tullaberga Island close to the location of the wreck of the "Monumental City" wrecked May 1853. Nail found in June 2000. -
Ballarat Heritage Services
Photograph, Former Kurting Mechanics' Institute, Victoria, 2016, 10/01/2016
Kurting. Mechanics' Hall OFFICIAL OPENING. SUCCESSFUL FUNCTION. Favored by beautiful weather, the official opening ot the new Mechanics' Hall erected at Kurting proved an entire success. There was a large attendance ol local and district residents, and a sports meeting held during the afternoon in aid of Red Cross funds resulted in a substantial amount being netted. The hall, which stands on ground generously donated by Mr J. Hogan, between the school and the creek, is a substantialyvconcrete building of pleasing design, and was erected at a cost of about £330 by Mr J. H. Secombe, who also materially assisted the committee in the matter of finance. It is 48ft. long by 24ft. wide, with 12ft, walls, and should prove equal to the needs of the district for many years to come. It is well ventilated, and has large windows, these opening outwards on hinges. Doors at each side, and the back, as well as in front, give free means of access, while a fireplace in the back allows of provision being made for supper arrangements, water being laid on from a tank. Provi sion has been made for the partitioning off ot portion of the hall at any time this may be considered desirable. To provide a stage eight tables of a uniform size have been constructed to fit across the width of the hall. By these it will be possible, when euchre parties are being held, to use the full length of the hall. ... (Inglewod Advertiser, 19 July 1918) and also to convert tiie "stage" into card tables. The committee still has work ahead in the provision of a ceiling for the building and seating accomodation, but there is no doubt that the public support accorded them will be sufficient to enable these matters to be dealt with in the near future. A fine floor has been put down.Photographs of the former Kurting Hall, Victoria.kurting, kurting hall, john hogan, kurting mechanics' institute -
City of Greater Bendigo - Civic Collection
Medal, Stokes and Son, Eaglehawk Football Club, 1925
Established in 1880, the Eaglehawk Football Club was one of the first teams to join the Bendigo Football League and to date the senior team has won twenty eight premierships, the most of any team in the league. The Eaglehawk colours are represented by two blues, the light blue of Oxford University and dark blue of Cambridge University which is represented on this pin in the coloured enamel. This pin issued in 1925 commemorates Eaglehawk Football Club's 1924 win which was played at Kennington Oval against Rochester. Final scores were 14.17.101 to 8.9.57. The Bendigo Football League formally known as the Sandhurst Football Association was formed in 1881 and over the decades has grown to include some of the longest established teams in Australia including Castlemaine (formed 1859 - joined 1925) and Kyenton (formed1875 - joined 1947). The local municipal councils worked with the League to provide playing fields for the competition and the Upper Reserve now known as the Queen Elizabeth Oval continues to host many League games. In 1928 at the annual dinner it was noted by the Bendigo Football League that the 'grounds were not all that could be desired, but that they were getting along well with the councils'. Mayor Batchelder responded saying that the council realised that 'the League was a major tenant and was out to do its best for them'. (1) (FN The Riverine Herald, Fri 19 Oct 1928 Page 1). The City of Greater Bendigo continues to work with the various leagues to provide playing fields for competitions as well as supporting the emerging of football and netball clubs and the introduction of women's football teams which has seen great changes to traditionally male dominated football clubs. Diamond shaped commemorative medal with circular scroll. Football sits inside inner diamond shape. front; Eaglehawk Football Cub 1925 / Premiers / 1924 verso; Stokes & Sons / Melbbendigo football league, city of greater bendigo community groups, borough of eaglehawk, making a nation exhibition, city of greater bendigo sport -
Melbourne Tram Museum
Document, Agreement - 1912 - between ATEA and MTOCo
Digital image of a photocopy of the Agreement dated 23-8-1912 between the Australian Tramway Employees Association with the Melbourne Tramway & Omnibus Company Limited and a supplemental agreement dated 12-8-1913. The agreement was the first between the Union and the Company which had long resisted unionism. The Victorian Branch of the ATEA was formed in November 1910. The agreement was the result of an Arbitration hearing before the Commonwealth Conciliation Commission. Frank Brennan & Rundle represented the Union and Louis Waxman the Company. The agreement covers wages for all the Companies employees, working days, rostered days off, travelling time, meal breaks, rosters, Sunday work, exchange of shifts, public holiday rates, training of students, accident reports, ability to wear their union badge on their watch chains, disputes re revenue, trackmen, ropemen, the establishment of a Board of Reference, dispute resolution, breach of the agreement and expiry - 30 June 1916, the day the Company Franchise ended. See item 7361 for a copy of the MTOCo employee rules that reflect this agreement. Signed by L L Hill Union President, A C Warton Union Secretary, H A Wilcox Company Secretary, and W G Sprigg, one of the Company Directors. The supplemental agreement - has a long introduction to the dispute regarding workers being represented on the grounds of alleged misconduct. Notes the name of the Court President, Mr. Justice Higgins. Provides the process for representation of any man who is accused of misconduct, discipline, and proof of the charge. Notes the use of the company's private (detective) staff - known as spotters. The wearing of union badges was the cause of a large General Strike by tramway men and others during 1912 in Brisbane.Yields information about the first agreement between the Melbourne cable tram operator and the Union that represented the workers. Digital Image of the 1912 Agreement between MTOCo and the ATEA and a supplemental agreement of 1913tramways, trams, unions, atea, mtoco, cable tramways, employment conditions, agreements, cable trams, disputes, discipline, spotters -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Legal record (Item), Thomas Judd to James Bonwick: Agreement for Sale of Land at Parish of Boroondara, 1853, 28/02/1853
James Bonwick (1817-1906), the Victorian educator and historian, acquired land in Kew on which to establish a home and school in 1853, not 1854 as more commonly stated. Bonwick returned to England in 1859 for a period, later returning to Melbourne and settling in St Kilda. He was the author of a number of histories and an official transcriber of Government records.This newly acquired document, from a former owner of 'Parkhill' (20 Hillcrest Avenue, Kew), is of statewide importance as it is the original copy of the agreement made between Thomas Judd of Parkhill and James Bonwick in 1853 for the purchase of land in Kew. Both Thomas Judd and James Bonwick were significant pioneers of Victoria.TRANSCRIPT [TITLE] Thomas Judd to James Bonwick Agreement for Sale of Land at Parish of Boroondara [PAGE 1] Articles of agreement made and entered into this the Twentyth eighth day of February One thousand Eight Hundred and fifty three Between Thomas Judd of Melbourne in the Colony of Victoria Gentleman of the one part and James Bonwick of Melbourne in the Colony of Victoria Gentleman of the other part whereby the said Thomas Judd agrees to sell unto the said James Bonwick who hereby agrees to purchase a piece or parcel of land containing two and half acres be the land more or less part of Portion Number Eighty five of the Parish of Boroondara in the County of Bourke commencing at a point on the Northern boundary line of the said Portion Seventeen Chains fifty links East from the North West angle of the same and bounded on the East by other part of said Portion in a line bearing South Eight Hundred and sixty two feet on the South by other part of said Portion Eighty five in a line bearing West one Hundred twenty six and half feet on the West by other part of said Portion Eighty five in a line bearing North Eight Hundred and Sixty two feet on the North by the Northern boundary line of the said Portion Eighty five in a line bearing East one Hundred twenty six and half feet to the commencing point at or for the price or sum of one [PAGE 2] One Hundred Pounds to be paid and payable in the manner hereinafter mentioned that is to say the Sum of Thirty pounds to be paid on the day of the date hereof and the sum of forty pounds by the acceptance of the said James Bonwick for that sum at three months bearing interest thereon after the rate of Eight Pounds per centum per annum and the Sum of Thirty pounds by the acceptance of the said James Bonwick for that sum after Six months with interest thereon after the rate of Eight pounds per centum per annum It is furthermore agreed that the said James Bonwick shall have access by a right of way fifteen feet wide reserved by the said Thomas Judd to the Government Road being the Southern Boundary of Portion Eighty five. That in case default shall be made in the payment of any of any of the Acceptances above mentioned the amount paid shall be actually forfeited to the said Thomas Judd who shall be at liberty to resell the premises. That upon payment of the whole amount of the purchase money the said Thomas Judd shall execute a conveyance of the premises to the said James Bonwick Such conveyance to be prepared by and at the expense of the said James Bonwick who - [PAGE 3] who shall also pay the cost of any attested copies he may require. ---- As witness the hands of the said parties this the twenty first day of February one thousand Eight Hundred and fifty Three. ----- [Signature] T. Judd [Signature] Jas Bonwick Witness [Signature illegible] £ Received Cash on account of the above 30.0.0 Thirty Pounds Bill at three Months with interest 42.4.0 Bill at Six Months with interest 31.4.0 _____ £103.8.0 _____ [Signature] T. Judd [Signature] Jas Bonwick ------------ Transcribed David White 25/08/2020 james bonwick, thomas judd, land titles - kew (vic), pioneers - kew - victoria